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      02-27-2018, 09:25 AM   #1
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Converting torque wrench for different drives?

Beginner here. I'm still learning a lot about tools, mechanics and such.

I'm about to order a torque wrench, but wanted to make sure of something.

The socket I have is 5/8ths drive. The wrench I want to order has 1/2 inch.

There are adapters which can compensate for this difference, yes?

In other words, using the 1/2 torque wrench with a 5/8 socket via a compatible adapter.

Any other pointers would be appreciated - thanks for your patience.
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      02-27-2018, 10:54 AM   #2
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On a socket there are two ends. One is the drive end and one is the end for the bolt head. The drive ends can be 1/4 3/8 1/2 3/4 in etc. The bolt head side of your socket is 5/8. The other end is going to be 1/4 3/8 1/2 3/4 in etc.
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      03-01-2018, 09:26 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheeGovernor View Post
On a socket there are two ends. One is the drive end and one is the end for the bolt head. The drive ends can be 1/4 3/8 1/2 3/4 in etc. The bolt head side of your socket is 5/8. The other end is going to be 1/4 3/8 1/2 3/4 in etc.
Just to add clarification....

The "drive" end of a socket is square. The hex side (i.e. what goes on the head of the bolt) is either Hexagonal (six-sided) or 12-sided. As TheeGovernor stated, the standard drive sizes for common hand tools are 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch, 1/2-inch, 3/4-inch, and 1-inch. Meaning, there is no 5/8-inch drive for common hand tools. 3/4-inch and 1-inch drives are used mostly for repairs on heavy equipment or large trucks.

Now, there are adapters to allow use of different drive sized sockets with different-sized drive tools (i.e. a ratchet or torque wrench).

BTW, BMWs are built to metric specification so they use Metric-sized fasteners. A 5/8th socket is an "American" or "SAE"(Society of Automotive Engineers) size tool and not meant to be used on a BMW. That said, for probably the last 35 years or more most all American brand cars (GM, Ford, Chrysler) are also built to metric standards. No offense, but your question (if not trolling) is seriously noobish, so I have to ask, why are you buying a torque wrench anyway.
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Last edited by Efthreeoh; 03-01-2018 at 09:38 PM..
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      03-01-2018, 11:37 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
No offense, but your question (if not trolling) is seriously noobish, so I have to ask, why are you buying a torque wrench anyway.
No offense taken. As I stated, I'm a beginner.

I'm buying a torque wrench to properly torque spark plugs. I want to take very good care of my car in a lot of ways. A torque wrench is a good tool to have if doing repairs, maintenance, etc.

Appreciate the explanation.
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      03-02-2018, 07:26 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deutschophile View Post
No offense taken. As I stated, I'm a beginner.

I'm buying a torque wrench to properly torque spark plugs. I want to take very good care of my car in a lot of ways. A torque wrench is a good tool to have if doing repairs, maintenance, etc.

Appreciate the explanation.
That's what I thought. For torquing spark plugs, get a 3/8-inch drive beam-style torque wrench. Do not use a click-type torque wrench to set the torque on spark plugs. Sears sells a very nice beam torque wrench for $20.
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      03-02-2018, 09:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
That's what I thought. For torquing spark plugs, get a 3/8-inch drive beam-style torque wrench. Do not use a click-type torque wrench to set the torque on spark plugs. Sears sells a very nice beam torque wrench for $20.
Why do you recommend beam style v clicker?
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      03-02-2018, 10:43 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
Why do you recommend beam style v clicker?
Because the torque spec for plugs is between 18 to 25 lb.-ft. Most click-type 3/8-drive torque wrenches have a range of 15 to 100 lb.-ft. but they are inaccurate at lower torque settings. Click-types are the most accurate in the middle of their torque range. 3/8-drive beam torque wrench is accurate all the way down to 0 lb.-ft. Beam type wrenches have no mechanism to go out of calibration.

3/8 and 1/2-drive click-type wrenches are cool and all, but inaccurate for torquing at low settings. I use a 1/2-drive torque wrench for wheel bolts mostly and big bolts like subframe, hub nuts, etc. Spark plugs you should use a beam style.

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 03-02-2018 at 10:52 AM..
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      03-02-2018, 10:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Because the torque spec for plugs is between 18 to 25 lb.-ft. Most click-type 3/8-drive torque wrenches have a range of 15 to 100 lb.-ft. but they are inaccurate at lower torque settings. Click-types are the most accurate in the middle of their torque range. 3/8-drive beam torque wrench is accurate all the way down to 0 lb.-ft. Beam type wrenches have no mechanism to go out of calibration.

3/8 and 1/2-drive click-type wrenches are cool and all, but inaccurate for torquing at low settings. I use a 1/2-drive torque wrench for wheel bolts mostly and big bolts like subframe, hub nuts, etc. Spark plugs you should use a beam style.
"The wrench hasn't clicked yet.. this feels like more than 20 pou- SNAP"

Usually how it goes
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      03-02-2018, 11:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Because the torque spec for plugs is between 18 to 25 lb.-ft. Most click-type 3/8-drive torque wrenches have a range of 15 to 100 lb.-ft. but they are inaccurate at lower torque settings. Click-types are the most accurate in the middle of their torque range. 3/8-drive beam torque wrench is accurate all the way down to 0 lb.-ft. Beam type wrenches have no mechanism to go out of calibration.

3/8 and 1/2-drive click-type wrenches are cool and all, but inaccurate for torquing at low settings. I use a 1/2-drive torque wrench for wheel bolts mostly and big bolts like subframe, hub nuts, etc. Spark plugs you should use a beam style.
Understood. I thought there was something else to it other than the accuracy issue. I've always avoided using click wrenches at the low and top end of their range.

Thanks,
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      03-02-2018, 12:07 PM   #10
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One thing to add for the OP is that adapters don't effect the accuracy IF they are not changing the length of the wrench beam (the adapter is not a horizontal extension).
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      03-02-2018, 04:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertman123 View Post
"The wrench hasn't clicked yet.. this feels like more than 20 pou- SNAP"

Usually how it goes
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      03-05-2018, 01:34 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertman123 View Post
"The wrench hasn't clicked yet.. this feels like more than 20 pou- SNAP"

Usually how it goes
Yeah, exactly. I use the 3/8 beam for everything that requires precision and a 1/2 clicker for wheel lug nuts and other high torque applications.
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      02-04-2020, 11:27 PM   #13
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hi everyone, i'm planning to rebuild my engine and looking to buy a new torque wrench. Anyone can suggest me on this list https://marathonmodular.com.au/servi...ar-classrooms/, the best torque wrench for this job when it comes to price and durability. I appreciate all who will comment. thanks

Last edited by JamesReid; 09-29-2020 at 12:15 AM..
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