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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > 328i Belt Tensioner Defect?



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      02-22-2017, 12:18 PM   #67
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the tensioner usually comes with a new bolt (mine did).
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      02-22-2017, 01:43 PM   #68
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the tensioner usually comes with a new bolt (mine did).
The tensioner did come with a new bolt. I also followed specs on the torque. 25 NM with a 90 degree torque angle.
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      03-07-2017, 08:47 PM   #69
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Still at it with this. Can't believe I haven't been able to figure it out...would I be alright skipping the idler pulley and pulling it straight over the alternator pulley just to get it over to the Indy shop ( 10-15 miles ). Would I be risking major damage ?
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      03-07-2017, 09:23 PM   #70
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I would say definitely don't drive it with the belt routed incorrectly. The belt could go where it isn't supposed to, or could be driving something backwards.

If you had to, you could drive it with the belt completely removed. You'd have no power steering and the alternator wouldn't charge the battery, so you might crash because of not being able to steer as well, or you might not make it because the battery died.

Up to you...

Too bad you're not in my area I'd offer to come give you a hand with it.
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      03-07-2017, 09:33 PM   #71
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Is it possible the idler pulley is installed in the wrong hole somehow?

I'm looking at the attached photo, and the angle between the idler and the alternator doesn't look nearly as steep as in your photo
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      03-07-2017, 09:36 PM   #72
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Quote:
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I would say definitely don't drive it with the belt routed incorrectly. The belt could go where it isn't supposed to, or could be driving something backwards.

If you had to, you could drive it with the belt completely removed. You'd have no power steering and the alternator wouldn't charge the battery, so you might crash because of not being able to steer as well, or you might not make it because the battery died.

Up to you...

Too bad you're not in my area I'd offer to come give you a hand with it.
Yeah, it's a damn shame I don't have any local BMW owners that could offer a second opinion. I literally checked everything at least 20 times. It's more so irritating then anything else...especially considering that I did the more complex "DIYs" without any issue, and when it's supposed to be the easiest I just can't seem to get it
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      03-07-2017, 09:42 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vilord View Post
Is it possible the idler pulley is installed in the wrong hole somehow?

I'm looking at the attached photo, and the angle between the idler and the alternator doesn't look nearly as steep as in your photo
I was thinking the same exact thing when I initially laid eyes on the first diagram, but I dismissed that theory thinking that couldn't be the case since there's only 1 hole for the idler pulley to bolt into. That is...unless I'm somehow mistaken.

What initially promoted all of this was an alternator going bad...I purchased a rebuilt 180AMP alternator that didn't come with an idler pulley. It had a hole for an idler pulley so I figured this is just how they come and I would install the new idler pulley when I order the tensioner pulley etc....

Could it be that the alternator I purchased might be incorrect ?! Is there an alternator out there with a hole that would be in another, more forward set spot?



*edit*

Here's the part I purchased:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282231157400
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      03-07-2017, 10:05 PM   #74
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Do a google search for photos of the n52 belt routing, and then look for photos of the n54 belt routing.

The n54 puts the idler significantly further to the right side of the car (further left looking that the front of the engine).

Maybe the alternator you have is for an n54?

I'd say pull the alternator again and compare it to your old one, i'd be willing to bet that's where the problem lies.
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      03-07-2017, 10:09 PM   #75
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the number on the back of the alternator in the ebay auction (0121715012) is for the '07 N52 motor that we both have... but its possible that what they gave you, especially if rmd, isn't actually that part.
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      03-08-2017, 07:15 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vilord View Post
Do a google search for photos of the n52 belt routing, and then look for photos of the n54 belt routing.

The n54 puts the idler significantly further to the right side of the car (further left looking that the front of the engine).

Maybe the alternator you have is for an n54?

I'd say pull the alternator again and compare it to your old one, i'd be willing to bet that's where the problem lies.
I believe that you've solved the puzzle ! It's deff set further to the left side of the car looking at it from the front. Now without actually replacing the alternator, since all other pulleys seem relative to what we have in the N52, can't I just get a N54 belt? Wouldn't it be a bit longer ?
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      03-08-2017, 07:20 AM   #77
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If you look at the belt routing for N54 it is very much different. The AC compressor isn't on the left of the engine on N54 the way it is on N52 because of where the turbo and piping goes, instead they put the AC compressor where our PS pump is, and mount the PS pump under that.
So, unfortunately, I don't think an N54 belt will work either.
Thinking your next steps are to swap out the alternator back to your bad one, make sure the belt goes on, then call up BNR parts and ask them to make things right / swap out the replacement alternator with the right one.
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      03-08-2017, 07:58 AM   #78
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Quote:
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If you look at the belt routing for N54 it is very much different. The AC compressor isn't on the left of the engine on N54 the way it is on N52 because of where the turbo and piping goes, instead they put the AC compressor where our PS pump is, and mount the PS pump under that.
So, unfortunately, I don't think an N54 belt will work either.
Thinking your next steps are to swap out the alternator back to your bad one, make sure the belt goes on, then call up BNR parts and ask them to make things right / swap out the replacement alternator with the right one.
Sir, I think I will do that today! Thank you for all the help! I'll report back with my findings.
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      03-08-2017, 10:47 AM   #79
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you can get custom length belts from gates. You just need the rib count and length.

or just get the right alternator.

glad somebody spotted the problem - I would have never figured that one out..
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      03-08-2017, 10:55 AM   #80
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you can get custom length belts from gates. You just need the rib count and length.

or just get the right alternator.

glad somebody spotted the problem - I would have never figured that one out..
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      03-08-2017, 12:26 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
you can get custom length belts from gates. You just need the rib count and length.

or just get the right alternator.

glad somebody spotted the problem - I would have never figured that one out..
I was really doubting my abilities..this easy diy had me questioning ever doing something on my own. I guess that's what I get for buying parts on eBay. They probably just swapped the covers by mistake after powder coating the refurbished core. Pulling the alternators after work to compare side by side
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      04-03-2017, 02:40 PM   #82
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I was really doubting my abilities..this easy diy had me questioning ever doing something on my own. I guess that's what I get for buying parts on eBay. They probably just swapped the covers by mistake after powder coating the refurbished core. Pulling the alternators after work to compare side by side
Will need to do this next job. My belt is off the tensioner about 1/4 of inch. will buy the belt kit. Dont want to wait till belt comes off. I understand I will need T60 torx and e19 drive to remove bolt. I also understand the 25nm torque but what about the 90 degree angle?
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      04-03-2017, 06:18 PM   #83
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Will need to do this next job. My belt is off the tensioner about 1/4 of inch. will buy the belt kit. Dont want to wait till belt comes off. I understand I will need T60 torx and e19 drive to remove bolt. I also understand the 25nm torque but what about the 90 degree angle?
Torque the bolt to 25nm with a torque wrench, then turn it 90 degrees farther with a ratchet. They sell torque angle gauges that measure the exact angle for more sensitive applications...it's not super critical here so I wouldn't hesitate to just eyeball it. I put the ratchet on the bolt and measure where 45 degrees is, turn it to there and then back it up and do it again. That will also slightly affect the final torque...ideally you'd want to turn it 90 degrees all at once. Again, though, not super critical. If you have enough space to turn it 90 degrees at once then that would be best.
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      04-17-2017, 11:11 AM   #84
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Torque the bolt to 25nm with a torque wrench, then turn it 90 degrees farther with a ratchet. They sell torque angle gauges that measure the exact angle for more sensitive applications...it's not super critical here so I wouldn't hesitate to just eyeball it. I put the ratchet on the bolt and measure where 45 degrees is, turn it to there and then back it up and do it again. That will also slightly affect the final torque...ideally you'd want to turn it 90 degrees all at once. Again, though, not super critical. If you have enough space to turn it 90 degrees at once then that would be best.
Thanks bud yeah I was able to do it last Friday. My neighbor had a torque ratchet and was able to replaced my tensioner, belt and pulley.
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      01-14-2019, 10:09 AM   #85
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Just got mine done at 84,000 miles. It cost $450.
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      01-14-2019, 10:40 AM   #86
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You got raped. this is like a $75 DIY, maybe $85 if you have to buy the torx socket for the bolt.

They must have charged you like 4 hours of labor, at least. I hope they did more than change your belt and tensioner because that is like a 30 minute job..
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      01-14-2019, 10:47 AM   #87
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I put on a new tensioner and belt last week at the same time I was replacing my oil filter housing gasket.

Then I brought it to the dealer for an oil change and inspection *after that*.
In the inspection report, they say I need an oil filter housing gasket ($825), and a tensioner and belt ($630). They also suggest replacing the front brake pads and rotors that have been on the car for 2 weeks ($790), and say that one of the 2-month old tires is near to needing replacement.

I... I just don't get it.

EDIT: Ah, it looks like they did an inspection when they did the recall work, which was before I did most of the repairs.
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      01-14-2019, 11:05 AM   #88
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They do that because people will pay it. Their customers would rather be helpless and ignorant 'for peace of mind'.
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