[dgvithoulkas]

How you doing guys, been in the scene for years now with a fully built 335, all go some show if you will.

Audio I never touched in this car always had stuff done, so as far as what’s actually in here I’ll provide pictures.

2 JL 400 amps
1 12 in JL sub custom enclosure in left side of trunk
1 AudioControl LC6i
1 stinger in-line fuse
Upgraded speakers all around

As far as audio and electrical goes, I’m very novice. Basic connecting, disconnecting, patching up wires or connecting and taping, you get the idea.

Now, all started randomly while pulling into my restaurant—I have a twin disk clutch so starting off in 1st is like riding a young buck horse, kinda jerks you around everywhere. As that jerking happened half sound occurred (loss of power to the amps) usually occurs when my ground comes loose. But after checking all wiring, cleaning up some and reseating, still nothing.

I’ve currently been without sound for more than a month now and I’m fed up and annoyed and would like to fix it without leaving it at a shop to fiddle with all my other electrics for fuel pumps and what not.

Any info or recommendations where to start would be great. Still running OEM unit with iDrive.

Pics attached for reference of installed hardware.

[ctuna]

Do you know which sound system you started with.
Since it's a 2010 it might be the stereo system.
My guess s whoever did this used the speakers outs
to drive the LCI then amps to speakers .
Looks like a mess.
If you don't know how to work on it you should take it
some place.

[dgvithoulkas]

Understandable, I’d consider that a last resort if I can’t do it myself. Rather not leave my fully built car in the hands of people who can barely even drive stick. Most people who drive well can’t even drive my car as first grabs instantly and the twin disk is very difficult.

That being said, I’m no lamen when it comes to working on cars just electrical and audio have not been my forte. I understand inputs and placement etc. Anywho, I believe I started with stereo hifi. As I believe top-hifi was 2011 and on. I have tweeters but no center speaker. Plus I’d prefer to be a little more in tune with how the audio is setup. So if you have any input that would be greatly appreciated.

As you may somewhat see, “remote” pink comes from stereo unit, plugs into LC6, which goes to first amp, then there’s another return that takes it from the second amp back to LC6. I thought that didn’t make much sense as well as the remote feature is what tells them to turn on correct? Wouldn’t it be simpler to go straight to the amp then the other way around? Wiring setup is something to tackle another day anyways.

I was thinking maybe the stereo unit could be on its way out. Or maybe remote that plugs in behind has came loose but haven’t had the time to pull things apart and get behind it as I planned earlier.

Standing by.

[ctuna]

2010 to 2011.5 Was the year that the US got the base system
with no amp. A lot of people try to modify this system.
It has special problems when trying to upgrade.

[dgvithoulkas]

Originally Posted by ctuna

2010 to 2011.5 Was the year that the US got the base system
with no amp. A lot of people try to modify this system.
It has special problems when trying to upgrade.

Understood, any specific issues that might relate to my situation?
As I said previous, nothing changed aside from one time pulling up to the restaurant car jerked heavily and music just cut and played “halfway” if you will. So speakers obviously not getting power and no bass because of no power to the amp, insight to these problems? First time I’ve had issues since last year, where similar issue occurred but “fixed itself “ over a couple days. Goes out and before I make time to source or figure it out sound and power fully restores.

[ctuna]

My guess is the guy used the LCI so he could use speaker out's
So tracing back through the wiring you could use a small speaker
to test the outputs of the head unit. Then the LCI would be the next
thing . If you haven't done this sort of thing it's not something I
would recommend.
Drawing a Diagram of the wiring and labeling all Inputs and outputs
might be a good place to start.
Checking all wiring connections and voltage to amps might be a good first check.

[dgvithoulkas]

Been a little, had a hectic month. Traced remote wire and it’s on lower panel passenger side tapped into the hidden cigarette lighter, I really think that’s NOT the place for it. Checked fuse, it’s good. Suggestions or ideas where to tap that wire so I get power signal to tell the amps to turn on?

[ctuna]

Jl amps usually have a power indicator light.
Look up your amp manuals . They may have a multi colored
lights the color can tell you something.
If speaker outs where used you could test the inputs to the
LCI by hooking up each input to a small speaker one at a time
to see if it outputs any sound .
At the Input to the amps you could use a cd player or some type
of music player to input sound to the amp to see if it works
from there on out.
I suppose you have checked all related fuses.
What about indicator lights on the LCI does it light up?
Do you have a separate sub amp?
Perhaps the LCI lost some of its settings.
Read the manual.
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...-upgrade/lc6i/
Could be set up for signals sense of hardwired.

Remote wire for amps should come from LCI if they wired it right.
Impossible to know how it is wired up are
the under seats bypassed.
To find out which system you started with for sure Run
a vin check at https://www.mdecoder.com/
Lack of opton 676 or 678 in and 2010 means you have the base system.
I believe the LCI uses signal sensing then has a 12 volt signal to switch
the amps on. Read the manual to the LCI.

[dgvithoulkas]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Jl amps usually have a power indicator light.
Look up your amp manuals . They may have a multi colored
lights the color can tell you something.
If speaker outs where used you could test the inputs to the
LCI by hooking up each input to a small speaker one at a time
to see if it outputs any sound .
At the Input to the amps you could use a cd player or some type
of music player to input sound to the amp to see if it works
from there on out.
I suppose you have checked all related fuses.
What about indicator lights on the LCI does it light up?
Do you have a separate sub amp?
Perhaps the LCI lost some of its settings.
Read the manual.
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...-upgrade/lc6i/
Could be set up for signals sense of hardwired.

Remote wire for amps should come from LCI if they wired it right.
Impossible to know how it is wired up are
the under seats bypassed.
To find out which system you started with for sure Run
a vin check at https://www.mdecoder.com/
Lack of opton 676 or 678 in and 2010 means you have the base system.
I believe the LCI uses signal sensing then has a 12 volt signal to switch
the amps on. Read the manual to the LCI.

Everything is about 10 years old at this point. Amps do not light up. I have a separate amp for speakers and sub, but they run in unison (power to inline which separates to each amp) my first thought was a wire came loose because of my twin disc but as it seems maybe not so. May be beginning to err on amps being out but still early to tell as the connection for remote was electric tape wrapped but soldered in. And yes remote comes from the LCI. I thought first this seemed counterintuitive but if that’s how you say then it’s like that. When you say underwear’s are you referring to the seat subs? I can almost honestly say no as they do still slightly thump when volume is all the way up. Although I barely hear any sound due to lack of power. LCI does not light up. No power there. And yes it’s base has neither option. I’ll read up on both when I have some more time if you have any other input it’s greatly appreciated.

[ctuna]

under seats maybe the spelling checker had its way with
that word and I didn't notice.(actually I don't see where you see
that)
You should be able to measure 12 volts at the 12 volt connection on
the amp. Which model Jl 400 do you have there are many versions
and series that come under that genral descripton jl 400.
xd 400/4 xd 400/a slash series 400 they used that designation for
a lot of years.

If you want to fix this you are going to have to do the work read the manuals
and retrace the wiring . Do basic voltage checks etc.. etc..
Get a voltmeter if you don't have one.