[torqueisking]

Originally Posted by alex sol

Comparing voltage with my buddy x5-35d and he has .3 volt at the injector at position 2 and 2.4 volts using voltmeter while running. Used a auto stethoscope to listen to injectors. They r so loud U hardly need em.

Went to my 335d and have .39 volt at the injector and no change with cranking by starter.

And no pulse from injectors so absolutely no power to the injectors.

Checked all fuses related to dde fuel engine. Lots missing in the fuse box.

No fried fuses so looking at the dde ecu now.

Thoughts or suggestions for next steps?

The DDE injector drive circuit is likely of the bridged/differential variety. In other words, both sides(wires) are driven or hot. Attaching an oscope ground to an "active" node is not a good idea and the measurement will incorrect.

Try grounding your oscope to the engine ground. The total voltage to the injector will be 2x the peak voltage you see on your scope.

Another approach is to make a differential measurement using two oscope probes AND the ground of one of them to the engine ground.

[alex sol]

Originally Posted by torqueisking

No need to pull any fuel through the HPFP with 60 bar in the rail but mine wouldn't start with that pressure.

Is the pressure building as you crank the engine? If so, a few crank cycles will likely be required to get the pressure over 200 bar.

Do you have fault codes in the DDE?

I cranked the engine for a few seconds last night (in between periods of Leaf game) with the hard fuel line to injector one removed and could only see a few drops of fuel coming out. seems i'm not getting any fuel to the rail and expected it to spray out at 60 bar (900psi) pressure? was going to remove my hpfp and don't have the special tool.

[torqueisking]

Drops won't start your engine so I suggest pulling a couple hundred ml of fuel out of the HPFP using your vacuum pump.

[alex sol]

Originally Posted by torqueisking

Drops won't start your engine so I suggest pulling a couple hundred ml of fuel out of the HPFP using your vacuum pump.

I pulled half liter fuel thru the injector while cranking the car. About six cranks and pulling fuel at about 50 psi thru my motive extractor.

Reconnected the Injector hard line but still no start.

Should I connect the intake and will run or can it run without the intake connected?

At least get it to pop. So far nothing except crank with no start.

[Yozh]

Remember that after properly priming the system it takes good three/four cranks to get it started

[alex sol]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Remember that after properly priming the system it takes good three/four cranks to get it started

primed system using my motive extractor and pulled out at lease 250ml fuel through the injector #1 rail after disconnecting the injector hard fuel line. Crank no start.

have a spare hpfp so i ohm both solenoid and they are both at around 4 ohm... so would seem to be in working range.

I removed both solenoids (from my original and known working hpfp) and from donor. Put 12 volts to both and they were doing same sort of internal buzz / popping sound.

swapped out donor solenoid with original solenoid from hpfp and still no start

carly reading 60 bar then 70 then never goes over 72 bar...

is it likely the hpfp? what dies on these? I suspected solenoid and was hoping that was the issues...

still no start...

[Yozh]

Prime with ISTA. Crank three times on a healthy battery and it will start.

[alex sol]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Prime with ISTA. Crank three times on a healthy battery and it will start.

Okay. Worth a shot.

[alex sol]

she runs again!! idles smoothly and only seven problems...

this job made much more difficult because i broke a bunch of stuff and didn't tighten one of the hard fuel lines that go to the rail and injectors...

needs 400 bar (x 14.5 psi per bar) to ignite..

i had 60 bar because of the one nut was difficult to tighten without special tools... we found it by putting air compressor onto the fuel rail and blasting 50 psi air while looking for soap bubbles from possible fuel leaks and found it after trying the sucking method which purged out all the air bubbles and eliminate air lock situation....

meantime there's at least six problems with the car now that it's running:

1. transmission - broke a tooth inside the torque tube area... this car really needs a six speed manual and posi traction
2. transmission - cracked a bolt hole so now won't hold in the bolt... which holds the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission... meanwhile mine is leaking badly.. solution is to bring to shop and get a stud welded in place of the bolt hole so i can fasten the nut to the new stud
3. fan runs on high speed... could be indication of water pump and thermostat on their last legs?
4. engine block... needs a stud welded to the high pressure fuel line.. broke it while installing the fuel pump - i feel that one was a defect and not my doing...
5. fuel leak... need to find the source of the fuel leak - like on the return as the car is running
6. coolant leak.. broke a part that needs minor repair or replace the part... difficult to replace the part and seems easy to make repair.. hmmm what to do??
bonus work - exhaust needs to bypass the catalytic or it's common to catch on fire from all the soot build up..

all these problems... caused by a turbo oil line that had been leaking and then failed then spun and seized the motor. we did post mortem on the block last week... a good size hole in the engine block... it's going to the scrap metal place...

plan A - fix leaks and get on the road for now..
plan B - engine pull again... that would be fourth time... and really get in and fix the issues.. and suggestion to upgrade the cam and timing chains.. though i'm not too excited about that one.

[Soonerbilly]

Cams are worth 30-40 whp.

[alex sol]

Originally Posted by Soonerbilly

Cams are worth 30-40 whp.

cam upgrade unlikely though tempting.

i have little or no knowledge of history of this motor except that it was car accident write off and that it had about 110,000 miles..

no need for more power for me... i find it's got already enough ponies that i don't ever use... just for spirited daily driving... not shaving tenths of a second down the 1/4 mile strip!!

[alex sol]

the latest codes..

1. wastegate control valve
004707

dde detects an open circuit in the output stage for the pressure converter of the wastegate valve... i had 50/50 guess to connect the correct/ incorrect so i'll switch and see if it fixes...


this 335d has three pressure converters that get burned up b/c they are close to the large turbo and gets hot. when coded, the car needs only 2 of 3 plugged in... does anyone know which one can be left unplugged?


2. glow plug cylinder 1, control
004a6e
glowplug cylinder 5, control
004a2e
- starting to think it's the controller not the plugs as they are new and the controller is old and was throwing cyl1 code last year...

3. abgasrueckfuehrsteller, position control
0040e9

remembering i have to unplug the egr valve plug..

4. embassy (a temp relative time, ox...)
0049a2

terminal 15 must be active.. i have a couple extra plugs don't know where they go... related to outside temperature, 0x310


5. outside temp sensor signal
003f80

ambient temp sensor - open or short circuit to positive..

Is this the sensor that plugs in top of the cover that is just in front of the passenger side windshield?

[Soonerbilly]

Ambient air I thought was the one at the front behind the front bumper cover.

[335D Alpha Pappa]

Maybe this website can help you trouble shoot these problems:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335d-lim/

[alex sol]

Originally Posted by Soonerbilly

Ambient air I thought was the one at the front behind the front bumper cover.

I didn't get to check. Will take a look and post my findings. I've changed in new one on my e46 m3