[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by nate93

Sighs, it looks my oil pan gasket is leaking as well, just a few drops. I want to know if there is a way to replace it without dropping the subframe? From what I can see, all the bolts are accessible!

or that is just wishful thinking?

you can get away with raising the engine off the engine mounts. This give you just enough space to pop a new gasket in without actually removing the whole pan.

[nate93]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

you can get away with raising the engine off the engine mounts. This give you just enough space to pop a new gasket in without actually removing the whole pan.

Thank you for the insight. Have you actually done it?

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by nate93

Thank you for the insight. Have you actually done it?

yes. Jacked the engine up with a hoist and then lowered the oil pan. I was able to swap the gasket without needing to drop the entire subframe entire. That is much more work. Then again, without the subframe in the way you'll have a much easier time of getting at all the oil pan bolts. With the right extensions and swivels I didn't have too much of an issue, but, sometimes it's just easier to do more work if that makes sense lol.

[nate93]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

yes. Jacked the engine up with a hoist and then lowered the oil pan. I was able to swap the gasket without needing to drop the entire subframe entire. That is much more work. Then again, without the subframe in the way you'll have a much easier time of getting at all the oil pan bolts. With the right extensions and swivels I didn't have too much of an issue, but, sometimes it's just easier to do more work if that makes sense lol.

How much did you lift up your engine? A guestimate will give me some starting point. I just don't to put strain on anything (engine mount, cables, connection to the trans) if I lift the engine up too much.

Did you have to drop anything else (like swaybar) after lifting up the engine before dropping the oil pan? When putting a new gasket on, did you have to cut it? And were you able to get the gasket all the way around? Were you able to torque everything back to spec?

Again,
This is very helpful for me. Thank you very much!

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by nate93

How much did you lift up your engine? A guestimate will give me some starting point. I just don't to put strain on anything (engine mount, cables, connection to the trans) if I lift the engine up too much.

Did you have to drop anything else (like swaybar) after lifting up the engine before dropping the oil pan? When putting a new gasket on, did you have to cut it? And were you able to get the gasket all the way around? Were you able to torque everything back to spec?

Again,
This is very helpful for me. Thank you very much!

Sway bar takes all of 15 seconds to lower from its brackets. I probably did lower it (just let it hang) to give more access to the pan bolts. I don't remember.

There are a few things you want to remove so they don't get stressed. The coolant hard pipe that runs along the subframe. It's held down by two torx screws. unbolt it from the subframe. If you're automatic, you'll want to disconnect the trans cooler from the radiator fan shroud. Again, 1 torx bolt. You'll need to pull the fan shroud out anyway so you can get to the belt and power steering pump bolts. Engine mount brackets will be lifted entirely off the mounts. Jack it up until the trans is touching the tunnel. Pretty sure I had the down-pipe disconnected from the exhaust too. The pan bolts are hard to get to on the driver side but I have done this twice now and never had an issue getting to all of them from above/below using a ratcheting wrench, wobble extensions, and swivels. No, I did not have to cut the gasket or anything. You will be able to tilt the oil pan down enough to clear the oil pump (but not get the pan off). Run a rag with some brake clean on it between both surfaces, pop the gasket in, and torque it back up.

If you can't get this to work for you then worse case scenario is you have to disconnect the suspension and drop the subframe. It's just additional steps at that point not wasted efforts...

[nate93]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Sway bar takes all of 15 seconds to lower from its brackets. I probably did lower it (just let it hang) to give more access to the pan bolts. I don't remember.

There are a few things you want to remove so they don't get stressed. The coolant hard pipe that runs along the subframe. It's held down by two torx screws. unbolt it from the subframe. If you're automatic, you'll want to disconnect the trans cooler from the radiator fan shroud. Again, 1 torx bolt. You'll need to pull the fan shroud out anyway so you can get to the belt and power steering pump bolts. Engine mount brackets will be lifted entirely off the mounts. Jack it up until the trans is touching the tunnel. Pretty sure I had the down-pipe disconnected from the exhaust too. The pan bolts are hard to get to on the driver side but I have done this twice now and never had an issue getting to all of them from above/below using a ratcheting wrench, wobble extensions, and swivels. No, I did not have to cut the gasket or anything. You will be able to tilt the oil pan down enough to clear the oil pump (but not get the pan off). Run a rag with some brake clean on it between both surfaces, pop the gasket in, and torque it back up.

If you can't get this to work for you then worse case scenario is you have to disconnect the suspension and drop the subframe. It's just additional steps at that point not wasted efforts...

You mentioned you've done it twice, on the same engine? Did it not go well the first time? I heard that not installing it right would cause another leak, well that I typed it, that's kind of obvious! haha

Also, is there a specific order you are supposed to install these aluminum bolts on? Any tricks to help with this? These can help getting to those bolts on the driver side, what do you think?
and .

And is there anything else I should get for the jobs other the gaskets and aluminum bolts, which I also heard the package most sites offer doesn't even come with all the bolts that I need, I think 2 additional bolts need to be purchased separately)?

I am still studying this before I actually do it. I will write up a DIY for everyone then. Thank you very much!

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by nate93

You mentioned you've done it twice, on the same engine? Did it not go well the first time? I heard that not installing it right would cause another leak, well that I typed it, that's kind of obvious! haha

Also, is there a specific order you are supposed to install these aluminum bolts on? Any tricks to help with this? These can help getting to those bolts on the driver side, what do you think?
Attachment 2164439 and Attachment 2164440.

And is there anything else I should get for the jobs other the gaskets and aluminum bolts, which I also heard the package most sites offer doesn't even come with all the bolts that I need, I think 2 additional bolts need to be purchased separately)?

I am still studying this before I actually do it. I will write up a DIY for everyone then. Thank you very much!

you're making this complicated. It's bolts and a gasket. I've done the job on two different cars. Read through newtis.info... there is no torque sequence specified but the bolts need to be stretched. Torque to 7ftlbs and then stretch 90* or something like that.