335d engine swap in my home garage

kbsilver · 09-10-2019, 08:41 AM

For a test run of 1 minute or less, as long as you have oil and a working oil pump, coolant or anything belt driven is not needed. But the part that appears to be sheared or broken off may be concerning. Also if the trans is connected filled with oil and spins, if you have any open trans cooler lines you will likely dump trans fluid on the floor.

Good Luck.

alex sol · 09-14-2019, 08:00 AM

I finally got the starter to spin. i inadvertently did not tighten the new 4 gauge ground strap to the engine mount and was super perplexed as to why it would not start. first problem was that the shifter linkage was not correct and the car thinks i'm in reverse and key will not pop out. so adjusted the linkage under the trans, tightened the ground strap and boom... starter pops. i did rebuild starter and buy brand new agm battery.

so, next step is to get it to fire.... tried starter twice for about 10 cranks each time. no joy. next, checking relays and fuses, dde connections (which appear good), connected throttle / intake manifold and have all six or seven connections in:

two fuel pressure sensors, crank sensor, swirl flap control, butterfly, engine temp, control for engine mounts (which i disconnected), egr valve (also disconnect), only four connects not in: a/c compressor, mass air flow, intercooler and engine oil level....
completing this Sunday morning.

alex sol · 09-16-2019, 06:59 PM

So no fire thus far. Will need to check if glow plugs are firing. And if something needs resetting in the ecu. Had similar xperience where we tried everything to get the car to fire. Thought it was due to scr dpf plugged. Read the amount of soot from carly and warned not to drive or risk catching on fire. Towed to jr and got the car to fire and reprogrammed for no dpf.

Will try a few things before pulling dde ecu and see if there's a reset needed.

alex sol · 09-16-2019, 07:00 PM

Alot of error codes!!

alex sol · 09-16-2019, 07:03 PM

And an odd dash light showing left right arrows above car. Indicating neutral or not level ground?!?

ranthum · 09-17-2019, 11:10 AM

Remember that it takes a lot of cranking to bleed the fuel system. You may not have a problem at all.

Yozh · 09-23-2019, 02:06 AM

I would not bother with the codes until you have a running car. Just from a battery disconnect you can get codes. These could be from just you working on a car. As far as fuel system bleed and starting, in my experience, even after a thorough bleed through ISTA, it still takes three good long cranks for it to fire. And a healthy battery.

alex sol · 09-23-2019, 03:32 PM

I did crank the motor about 15-20 times. No ista or software for bleeding though very good area to look. Thanks

alex sol · 09-23-2019, 03:35 PM

Checking if glow plugs are working

robnitro · 09-23-2019, 06:23 PM

If they are working you won't have codes for them. Clear the codes and see what crap comes up after trying a few starts.

alex sol · 09-24-2019, 06:14 PM

No crank last couple times I tried and found the ground was weak by jumping starter to ground. Sooo tightened ground very snug and cranking again.

Still no turn over and seems like no fuel. Checking injector pulse with sewing needles and occiliscope. Then checking glow plugs. Cranked about 50-75 turns now. At least.

alex sol · 09-25-2019, 07:28 PM

Glow plugs working. Tested them in and outside the car. Definitely no voltage to the injectors. Checked with o scope and voltmeter. Should there be 12 v at the injector like on a gas car?

alex sol · 09-26-2019, 08:12 AM

@yozh i have battery on a tender which has a good start mode. fuel is at the rail and i purposely left one of the fuel injector connects lose and can see fuel coming out though not squirting under high pressure as motor has not gotten more than 200 rpm according to the tach. just verifying why i'm not getting 12 volts at the injector

Yozh · 09-26-2019, 12:29 PM

Those injectors are piezo and run on AC at about 100v or so. At least according my electrical engineer at work. I never measured it though. But you will not see 12v DC on those.

alex sol · 09-26-2019, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yozh

Those injectors are piezo and run on AC at about 100v or so. At least according my electrical engineer at work. I never measured it though. But you will not see 12v DC on those.

I'm concerned i'm not getting any voltage. just a steady zero volts and when cranking getting only a max of .42 volts and on the o-scope, i'm getting some low voltage noise vs when i test with my 1991 911, i get something in the 12 volts on the voltmeter and good looking pattern on the o-scope... question is, are the diesel injector harness giving a certain voltage? or does this lack of voltage point to my ecu as being the problem? possible there is a ground for ecu hiding somewhere? i have the one near the ecu next to the red high power line snugged up..

Yozh · 09-27-2019, 12:39 PM

I did some testing with an O-Scope on the running motor but I don’t recall the voltages exactly. You should be seeing definite values there.

alex sol · 09-27-2019, 06:12 PM

Comparing voltage with my buddy x5-35d and he has .3 volt at the injector at position 2 and 2.4 volts using voltmeter while running. Used a auto stethoscope to listen to injectors. They r so loud U hardly need em.

Went to my 335d and have .39 volt at the injector and no change with cranking by starter.

And no pulse from injectors so absolutely no power to the injectors.

Checked all fuses related to dde fuel engine. Lots missing in the fuse box.

No fried fuses so looking at the dde ecu now.

Thoughts or suggestions for next steps?

alex sol · 10-02-2019, 07:16 PM

Looks like I am not getting enough fuel pressure at the rail in order to work the injectors. They should be in the 300 bar Range and I am in the 60 bar range and wondering if there's any advice on how to deal with this other than to swap out fuel pumps.

torqueisking · 10-03-2019, 05:16 PM

Sounds familiar. Try this:

https://xoutpost.com/1070618-post42.html

alex sol · 10-03-2019, 08:43 PM

Awesome tip. Will try. I have the motive vacuum extractor so can pull fuel up. And hope i get same results!! Start dammit!!!

alex sol · 10-05-2019, 06:50 PM

@torqueisking I have fuel at the rail as evidence by 60 bar and cracking the hard fuel line on the injectors. Do I still need to pull 4-8 oz fuel to get rid of air bubbles? I have motive extractor.

torqueisking · 10-06-2019, 06:08 AM

No need to pull any fuel through the HPFP with 60 bar in the rail but mine wouldn't start with that pressure.

Is the pressure building as you crank the engine? If so, a few crank cycles will likely be required to get the pressure over 200 bar.

Do you have fault codes in the DDE?

09-10-2019, 08:41 AM	#67
kbsilver Captain 142 Rep 634 Posts Drives: 340GT & '22 eDrive40 Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: North Jersey iTrader: (0)	For a test run of 1 minute or less, as long as you have oil and a working oil pump, coolant or anything belt driven is not needed. But the part that appears to be sheared or broken off may be concerning. Also if the trans is connected filled with oil and spins, if you have any open trans cooler lines you will likely dump trans fluid on the floor. Good Luck.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-14-2019, 08:00 AM	#68
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	I finally got the starter to spin. i inadvertently did not tighten the new 4 gauge ground strap to the engine mount and was super perplexed as to why it would not start. first problem was that the shifter linkage was not correct and the car thinks i'm in reverse and key will not pop out. so adjusted the linkage under the trans, tightened the ground strap and boom... starter pops. i did rebuild starter and buy brand new agm battery. so, next step is to get it to fire.... tried starter twice for about 10 cranks each time. no joy. next, checking relays and fuses, dde connections (which appear good), connected throttle / intake manifold and have all six or seven connections in: two fuel pressure sensors, crank sensor, swirl flap control, butterfly, engine temp, control for engine mounts (which i disconnected), egr valve (also disconnect), only four connects not in: a/c compressor, mass air flow, intercooler and engine oil level.... completing this Sunday morning.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-16-2019, 06:59 PM	#69
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	So no fire thus far. Will need to check if glow plugs are firing. And if something needs resetting in the ecu. Had similar xperience where we tried everything to get the car to fire. Thought it was due to scr dpf plugged. Read the amount of soot from carly and warned not to drive or risk catching on fire. Towed to jr and got the car to fire and reprogrammed for no dpf. Will try a few things before pulling dde ecu and see if there's a reset needed.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-16-2019, 07:00 PM	#70
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	Alot of error codes!! Attached Images
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09-16-2019, 07:03 PM	#71
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	And an odd dash light showing left right arrows above car. Indicating neutral or not level ground?!?
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09-17-2019, 11:10 AM	#72
ranthum Private First Class 23 Rep 133 Posts Drives: Looking to Buy Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: United States iTrader: (0)	Remember that it takes a lot of cranking to bleed the fuel system. You may not have a problem at all.
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09-23-2019, 02:06 AM	#73
Yozh Colonel 870 Rep 2,615 Posts Drives: 2011 335d M-Sport Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Wet Coast iTrader: (4)	I would not bother with the codes until you have a running car. Just from a battery disconnect you can get codes. These could be from just you working on a car. As far as fuel system bleed and starting, in my experience, even after a thorough bleed through ISTA, it still takes three good long cranks for it to fire. And a healthy battery.
	Appreciate 1 robnitro160.00 Quote

09-23-2019, 03:32 PM	#74
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	I did crank the motor about 15-20 times. No ista or software for bleeding though very good area to look. Thanks
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-23-2019, 03:35 PM	#75
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	Checking if glow plugs are working
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09-23-2019, 06:23 PM	#76
robnitro Captain 160 Rep 803 Posts Drives: x5 35d e70 2011 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: NYC area iTrader: (0)	If they are working you won't have codes for them. Clear the codes and see what crap comes up after trying a few starts.
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09-24-2019, 06:14 PM	#77
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	No crank last couple times I tried and found the ground was weak by jumping starter to ground. Sooo tightened ground very snug and cranking again. Still no turn over and seems like no fuel. Checking injector pulse with sewing needles and occiliscope. Then checking glow plugs. Cranked about 50-75 turns now. At least.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-25-2019, 07:28 PM	#78
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	Glow plugs working. Tested them in and outside the car. Definitely no voltage to the injectors. Checked with o scope and voltmeter. Should there be 12 v at the injector like on a gas car?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-26-2019, 08:12 AM	#79
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	@yozh i have battery on a tender which has a good start mode. fuel is at the rail and i purposely left one of the fuel injector connects lose and can see fuel coming out though not squirting under high pressure as motor has not gotten more than 200 rpm according to the tach. just verifying why i'm not getting 12 volts at the injector
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-26-2019, 12:29 PM	#80
Yozh Colonel 870 Rep 2,615 Posts Drives: 2011 335d M-Sport Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Wet Coast iTrader: (4)	Those injectors are piezo and run on AC at about 100v or so. At least according my electrical engineer at work. I never measured it though. But you will not see 12v DC on those.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-27-2019, 12:39 PM	#82
Yozh Colonel 870 Rep 2,615 Posts Drives: 2011 335d M-Sport Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Wet Coast iTrader: (4)	I did some testing with an O-Scope on the running motor but I don’t recall the voltages exactly. You should be seeing definite values there.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-27-2019, 06:12 PM	#83
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	Comparing voltage with my buddy x5-35d and he has .3 volt at the injector at position 2 and 2.4 volts using voltmeter while running. Used a auto stethoscope to listen to injectors. They r so loud U hardly need em. Went to my 335d and have .39 volt at the injector and no change with cranking by starter. And no pulse from injectors so absolutely no power to the injectors. Checked all fuses related to dde fuel engine. Lots missing in the fuse box. No fried fuses so looking at the dde ecu now. Thoughts or suggestions for next steps?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-02-2019, 07:16 PM	#84
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	Looks like I am not getting enough fuel pressure at the rail in order to work the injectors. They should be in the 300 bar Range and I am in the 60 bar range and wondering if there's any advice on how to deal with this other than to swap out fuel pumps.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-03-2019, 05:16 PM	#85
torqueisking Private First Class 44 Rep 141 Posts Drives: 335D Sport Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Toronto iTrader: (0)	Sounds familiar. Try this: https://xoutpost.com/1070618-post42.html
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10-03-2019, 08:43 PM	#86
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	Awesome tip. Will try. I have the motive vacuum extractor so can pull fuel up. And hope i get same results!! Start dammit!!!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-05-2019, 06:50 PM	#87
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	@torqueisking I have fuel at the rail as evidence by 60 bar and cracking the hard fuel line on the injectors. Do I still need to pull 4-8 oz fuel to get rid of air bubbles? I have motive extractor.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-06-2019, 06:08 AM	#88
torqueisking Private First Class 44 Rep 141 Posts Drives: 335D Sport Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Toronto iTrader: (0)	No need to pull any fuel through the HPFP with 60 bar in the rail but mine wouldn't start with that pressure. Is the pressure building as you crank the engine? If so, a few crank cycles will likely be required to get the pressure over 200 bar. Do you have fault codes in the DDE?
	Appreciate 0 Quote