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      12-24-2020, 01:16 PM   #1
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Exclamation Oil housing gasket leaking after replacement???

N55 39K miles. 2K miles ago, I replaced the oil housing gaskets with the new ones. I cleaned all the mating surfaces before putting the oil housing back on there. I did it very meticulously. I replaced the three bolts and torqued them to the spec; 22 Nm. I just realized the large gasket started leaking at the bottom sometime ago. I have oil seeping on the drive belt and the pulleys. The leak is not coming from the oil lines. They are bone dry. No coolant is leaking. I use Castrol Edge 5W-40 every 4K miles. Techron Fuel system cleaner every 6K miles or so which may thin the oil further... but to the point where a brand new gasket leaks...???

Has anyone ever experienced this?

Additional info: The oil housing gasket is BavAuto Viton gasket which is $33 and beefier.

Last edited by apirumann; 12-24-2020 at 02:38 PM.. Reason: More info
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      12-24-2020, 01:23 PM   #2
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Did you change the oil thermostat gasket also? I stripped the bolt threads doing that once and it was dripping oil. If that's not the case I would guess maybe the gasket is pinched somewhere.
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      12-24-2020, 02:35 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aceway View Post
Did you change the oil thermostat gasket also? I stripped the bolt threads doing that once and it was dripping oil. If that's not the case I would guess maybe the gasket is pinched somewhere.
Thanks for the input. Yes, I changed the oil thermostat gasket to but I torqued those bolts to spec as well. That area is bone dry all around.
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      12-24-2020, 04:09 PM   #4
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Use OE or OEM manufacturer. I have done the same thing and had the same results. When I pulled out the non-OEM found the rubber to have hardened and that was in less than 10k miles. I replaced with Elring now and my belt is dry, also don't forget about the oil cooler line o-rings. This is not mentioned in most DYI. If you didn't change these I would start there.

Last edited by TunafishE93; 12-24-2020 at 04:52 PM..
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      12-24-2020, 05:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TunafishE93 View Post
Use OE or OEM manufacturer. I have done the same thing and had the same results. When I pulled out the non-OEM found the rubber to have hardened and that was in less than 10k miles. I replaced with Elring now and my belt is dry, also don't forget about the oil cooler line o-rings. This is not mentioned in most DYI. If you didn't change these I would start there.
Thanks for the info. I replaced the o-rings when I replaced both gaskets. This time I am not going to disconnect oil cooler lines. Hopefully I can do this without removing those.

I found other threads people recommending RTV which did not surprise me at all. E46 thermostat housing never sit properly and I had to RTV it even with a brand new gasket. Ahhh... These f...king ultimate driving machines... Overengineered POSs...
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      12-24-2020, 05:35 PM   #6
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Get the new gaskets from Tischer. They're made in Japan and are the best ones you can get. Aftermarket ones always leak again shortly after.
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      12-24-2020, 07:49 PM   #7
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I wouldn't personally use RTV. Its risky enough changing gaskets having to risk bearing failure without putting another variable in the equation. But agreed this things are engineered by computer techs not mechanics.
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      12-25-2020, 04:31 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TunafishE93 View Post
I wouldn't personally use RTV. Its risky enough changing gaskets having to risk bearing failure without putting another variable in the equation. But agreed this things are engineered by computer techs not mechanics.
Exactly. Use genuine gaskets if the first attempt using aftermarket failed. In fact, use genuine gaskets only. I've never had a genuine one leak. Don't use RTV as RTV is not designed to hold pressure in applications such as this
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      12-25-2020, 02:02 PM   #9
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Here is the thread to recommendation of RTV

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1424984
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      12-25-2020, 02:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TunafishE93 View Post
Use OE or OEM manufacturer. I have done the same thing and had the same results. When I pulled out the non-OEM found the rubber to have hardened and that was in less than 10k miles. I replaced with Elring now and my belt is dry, also don't forget about the oil cooler line o-rings. This is not mentioned in most DYI. If you didn't change these I would start there.
Interestingly Elring didn't last me more than a year before allowing seepage (swiping my finger would come up dirty under it). Usually I definitely root for OE parts but the elring technically is OEM regarding the OFHG (not the same exact part).

The best choice is the BMW branded one, it's now made in Japan and isn't one of the OEMs FCP sell. Still dry as a bone.
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      12-25-2020, 04:56 PM   #11
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I only had the elring for about six months so its possible that it will start leaking. The other gaskets leaked the first month. So far six times as long so doing good. Even BMW gaskets last what ~30k miles. This is a common repair from what I have experienced and read about.
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      12-25-2020, 06:32 PM   #12
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Went through the same thing. Replaced the gaskets with a non OEM brand about 6 months ago and it started leaking again. Just did it again with all OEM bolts and gaskets. Seems to be good now.
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      12-25-2020, 10:39 PM   #13
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I'm about to tackle this OFHG in the coming months. Have the parts, all "OEM" gaskets from FCP along with the associated hardware.

Out of curiosity....those that have replaced the gaskets with what FCP deems to be "OEM" parts....and had them leak quickly......did you replace all of the hardware or did you reuse the bolts and what not?
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      12-25-2020, 10:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TunafishE93 View Post
I only had the elring for about six months so its possible that it will start leaking. The other gaskets leaked the first month. So far six times as long so doing good. Even BMW gaskets last what ~30k miles. This is a common repair from what I have experienced and read about.
Yes but the old gaskets lasting 30k is the old one made in Germany, the new ones are made in Japan with better rubber it seems.
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      12-25-2020, 10:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fgpalmer71 View Post
I'm about to tackle this OFHG in the coming months. Have the parts, all "OEM" gaskets from FCP along with the associated hardware.

Out of curiosity....those that have replaced the gaskets with what FCP deems to be "OEM" parts....and had them leak quickly......did you replace all of the hardware or did you reuse the bolts and what not?
Based on the FCP labelling, OEM parts are the one you want to go for last IMO. OE parts are the one that was literally on your car just without the BMW logo so basically dealer parts at fraction of price (usually).

Now, some will argue "well if original part only lasted X miles it must be shit" but then again in my opinion sometimes it's simply the design of the part that causes it to fail that quickly and that BMW part is in fact the best one and the other one you will get may last much less (for example my Elring).

But on some other cases even non OEM parts can be better. Like metal aftermarkets parts to.
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      12-25-2020, 10:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fgpalmer71 View Post
I'm about to tackle this OFHG in the coming months. Have the parts, all "OEM" gaskets from FCP along with the associated hardware.

Out of curiosity....those that have replaced the gaskets with what FCP deems to be "OEM" parts....and had them leak quickly......did you replace all of the hardware or did you reuse the bolts and what not?
I used all new hardware and torqued everything. Mine was Victor Reinz from FCP.
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      12-25-2020, 11:04 PM   #17
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Thumbs down Not cool ECSTuning!

Thanks to everyone who replied to this thread. Overall verdict: BavAuto Viton gaskets are crap. I am surprised though. They were good a distributor and their products used to be better quality than OEM.

I noticed that ECSTuning does not allow reviews on any product anymore. If they did, probably I would not buy that gasket. This is my third bad experience with ECS. I have to replace the serpentine belt, which was replaced 2K miles ago, because it has some kind of sticky oil residue on it. It won't even come off with gasoline. The viton gasket was only $33 but the prep was very time consuming because of that stupid bolt behind the intake manifold, draining the coolant, jacking up the car etc. I had such a nightmare because the plastic charge pipe that goes to the throttle body broke when gently sliding it on the throttle body using vaseline. The BMW plastic charge pipe costs $350. All of the aftermarket charge pipes have some kind of defect. None of them sit right. I went through 4 different ones. One vendor ignored me for a month, the other one found excuses after excuses not to refund me. I got my money back because the manufacturer admitted the fault and I got refunded after 2.5 months. The only CP that worked for me was the ETS but that change the responsiveness of the car. So going through all that hassle and having to do that again for a piece of crap gasket... Shame on you ECS!

Elring has 41 good reviews on FCPEuro but I will still go with the Japanese made new gasket from BMW.

I used to own an Infiniti G37. In front of the engine block, there is a two piece aluminum housing for timing chain, gears and sprockets. Those two pieces are glued to each other and to the engine block using Permatex UltraGrey for the entire edge of the V block. That's Nissan's version of a gasket. Mine broke down around 85K-90K miles at a spot that was impossible to reach without removing the entire front of the car. I ended up selling the G37. However, that RTV withstood the heat and the hot chemicals for 85K miles. So, I am still indecisive whether to use RTV or not in conjunction with the gasket.

Last edited by apirumann; 12-25-2020 at 11:50 PM..
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      12-25-2020, 11:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
Based on the FCP labelling, OEM parts are the one you want to go for last IMO. OE parts are the one that was literally on your car just without the BMW logo so basically dealer parts at fraction of price (usually).

Now, some will argue "well if original part only lasted X miles it must be shit" but then again in my opinion sometimes it's simply the design of the part that causes it to fail that quickly and that BMW part is in fact the best one and the other one you will get may last much less (for example my Elring).

But on some other cases even non OEM parts can be better. Like metal aftermarkets parts to.
Thanks!
I was reading similar things, which is why I opted for the OEM version from FCP. No matter what I got I knew it would have the lifetime warranty. I just want the best chance of another 70k - 80k miles out of this replacement as I can get. The extra change involved is more then worth it to me if I have a better chance of accomplishing that goal.

Waterpump and thermostat were done a few hundred miles before my purchase. But when they fail again I'm going to try the all aluminum unit from O'Reilly.
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      12-25-2020, 11:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david in germany View Post
Went through the same thing. Replaced the gaskets with a non OEM brand about 6 months ago and it started leaking again. Just did it again with all OEM bolts and gaskets. Seems to be good now.
How long has it been since you put OEM gasket?
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      12-25-2020, 11:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fgpalmer71 View Post
Thanks!
I was reading similar things, which is why I opted for the OEM version from FCP. No matter what I got I knew it would have the lifetime warranty. I just want the best chance of another 70k - 80k miles out of this replacement as I can get. The extra change involved is more then worth it to me if I have a better chance of accomplishing that goal.

Waterpump and thermostat were done a few hundred miles before my purchase. But when they fail again I'm going to try the all aluminum unit from O'Reilly.
My original BMW gasket failed at 37K miles. At the time of purchase, the Viton gasket was more expensive than the original BMW gasket. In fact, it still is. Just like you, I did not mind paying extra and got the more expensive gasket thinking that it would perform better because Viton is a very good product for many applications. Except this one!

I read some people got their gaskets replaced twice under warranty. It may have something to do with the engine. I am assuming if you have an N52, the OEM gaskets may last a long time but I am not confident they will last 80K miles.

Last edited by apirumann; 12-25-2020 at 11:56 PM..
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      12-26-2020, 12:01 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apirumann View Post
My original BMW gasket failed at 37K miles. At the time of purchase, the Viton gasket was more expensive than the original BMW gasket. In fact, it still is. Just like you, I did not mind paying extra and got the more expensive gasket thinking that it would perform better because Viton is a very good product for many applications, except this one!

I read some people got their gaskets replaced twice under warranty. It may have something to do with the engine. I am assuming if you have an N52, the OEM gaskets may last a long time but I am not confident they will last 80K miles.
Nope, I have a 2009 E93 335i.....N54. It has the factory oil cooler, so I bought the kit with both gaskets and all new hardware.

I'm 1k miles away from the house so I couldn't walk out to the garage and check my parts. Purchased the kit a little while ago, just logged into FCP and the kit I purchased does indeed have the Elring gaskets, but BMW hardware. Leaving AZ for IN the week after next and am now contemplating returning the gaskets and getting the made in Japan gaskets based solely off of this thread. The reviews from the Elring gaskets on FCP are solid.....but this forum has yet to steer me wrong.
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      12-26-2020, 02:44 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apirumann View Post
How long has it been since you put OEM gasket?
Beginning of this month.
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