[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by Terraphantm

I find soldering to be much easier than aligning needles perfectly.

Normally I agree. But I'm talking only about an 8pin test clip. You just clip it on. Pins are already aligned perfectly if you get a good clip. It literally takes 1 second.

I guess personal preference. I use a good rework station for other jobs. For this one, I find a test clip very efficient.

[Jozy]

I guess both are fine. Clipping then you don't have to touch a soldering iron but have to take out needles which is not exactly the most fun part.

Solder then you don't have to touch the dials so no needles misalignment nor chance to scratch the face while removing.

Removing those needles are annoying since they are so tight fitted.

[Levanime]

removing needles is fine if u have correct tool,
aligning them is pita

i use metal tool from this set https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WAXVMKW
and it is perfect for this job

long side for speedo/tacho, short side for fuel/oil temp

Today, i've checked board of e9x cluster and couldnot find pins on the back

[Terraphantm]

Originally Posted by Sensible_

Normally I agree. But I'm talking only about an 8pin test clip. You just clip it on. Pins are already aligned perfectly if you get a good clip. It literally takes 1 second.

I guess personal preference. I use a good rework station for other jobs. For this one, I find a test clip very efficient.

I mean the actual gauge needles. It's difficult to align them back to factory-perfect calibration.

Originally Posted by Levanime

removing needles is fine if u have correct tool,
aligning them is pita

i use metal tool from this set https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WAXVMKW
and it is perfect for this job

long side for speedo/tacho, short side for fuel/oil temp

Today, i've checked board of e9x cluster and couldnot find pins on the back

Could try soldering directly to the CPU pins then, that's worked for me in the past (though you definitely need a steady hand for those).

[BMWhartgeM3]

Once I program the chip from my old e90 speedo to the new M3 needle is there anyone who could help me out coding? I have all the software on my comp ready to go, I just dont feel comfortable doing it myself.

[Joe@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by BMWhartgeM3

Once I program the chip from my old e90 speedo to the new M3 needle is there anyone who could help me out coding? I have all the software on my comp ready to go, I just dont feel comfortable doing it myself.

We can do it remotely for you. If you don't have a cable, we can send one.

[BMWhartgeM3]

Ok, so making sure I have this correct, I'm going to desolder the chip out of my 335 Speedo and solder it to the M3s. Then the cluster will be ready for coding? This will avoid having to use the programmer as well right?

[Joe@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by BMWhartgeM3

Ok, so making sure I have this correct, I'm going to desolder the chip out of my 335 Speedo and solder it to the M3s. Then the cluster will be ready for coding? This will avoid having to use the programmer as well right?

PM sent.

[BimaExtremeRetro]

Originally Posted by Sensible_

Normally I agree. But I'm talking only about an 8pin test clip. You just clip it on. Pins are already aligned perfectly if you get a good clip. It literally takes 1 second.

I guess personal preference. I use a good rework station for other jobs. For this one, I find a test clip very efficient.

Sensible you seem like the man for the topic (and many others), can you confirm that access to both versions of the epprom require the needles to come out to access the chip ? The only reason I ask is because I see someone comparing the 2 methods by remove needles and desolder chip vs clip and no needles. My understanding is regardless of method, the needles need to come off to get to the chip period, meaning needles adjustment is required, period.

Also what brand of clip do you recommend as being high quality for the v6 and 80q ?

Also does using the clip method restrict any function whatsoever to either chip vs desoldering? If not, does that mean a new chip makes no difference whatsoever vs 00 and FF ? That being the case, provided the index is correct for either pre or post lci they would code right up? If not, I guess it should be a simple i-level change to the VO.

A little field, I see the m3 cluster does have the background for active cruise, however since the m3 was never offered with acc (so far as I know) do you know if the leds are present and if it will code up with the right data. Best guess ?

I would love to have a chat with you re ISN reading writing matching as im sure your into it. Do you know anywhere where a high level discussion is taking place or anything you can share by any chance ?

Much appreciated. Guys like yourself and Terra and many others contribute hugely.

[Levanime]

Originally Posted by hotsd

Sensible you seem like the man for the topic (and many others), can you confirm that access to both versions of the epprom require the needles to come out to access the chip ? The only reason I ask is because I see someone comparing the 2 methods by remove needles and desolder chip vs clip and no needles. My understanding is regardless of method, the needles need to come off to get to the chip period, meaning needles adjustment is required, period.

Also what brand of clip do you recommend as being high quality for the v6 and 80q ?

Also does using the clip method restrict any function whatsoever to either chip vs desoldering? If not, does that mean a new chip makes no difference whatsoever vs 00 and FF ? That being the case, provided the index is correct for either pre or post lci they would code right up? If not, I guess it should be a simple i-level change to the VO.

A little field, I see the m3 cluster does have the background for active cruise, however since the m3 was never offered with acc (so far as I know) do you know if the leds are present and if it will code up with the right data. Best guess ?

I would love to have a chat with you re ISN reading writing matching as im sure your into it. Do you know anywhere where a high level discussion is taking place or anything you can share by any chance ?

Much appreciated. Guys like yourself and Terra and many others contribute hugely.

Its always safer to desolder, its 15 second job anyways.
Clip also works sometimes, but I prefer desoldering.

I tried tracing points on the other side of the board, to do it without removing needles but did not succeed.

with practice, needles are not big problem too, plus u can correct them by coding later.

for acc, you can enable/disable thru buffer coding.

whats ur question about ISN?

[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by hotsd

Sensible you seem like the man for the topic (and many others), can you confirm that access to both versions of the epprom require the needles to come out to access the chip ? The only reason I ask is because I see someone comparing the 2 methods by remove needles and desolder chip vs clip and no needles. My understanding is regardless of method, the needles need to come off to get to the chip period, meaning needles adjustment is required, period.

Also what brand of clip do you recommend as being high quality for the v6 and 80q ?

Also does using the clip method restrict any function whatsoever to either chip vs desoldering? If not, does that mean a new chip makes no difference whatsoever vs 00 and FF ? That being the case, provided the index is correct for either pre or post lci they would code right up? If not, I guess it should be a simple i-level change to the VO.

A little field, I see the m3 cluster does have the background for active cruise, however since the m3 was never offered with acc (so far as I know) do you know if the leds are present and if it will code up with the right data. Best guess ?

I would love to have a chat with you re ISN reading writing matching as im sure your into it. Do you know anywhere where a high level discussion is taking place or anything you can share by any chance ?

Much appreciated. Guys like yourself and Terra and many others contribute hugely.

Exactly as @Levanime says. He is the real man

I started off with the test clips as I was only doing a few clusters and for me it was easier than hot air soldering.

However, if you have the tools removing the chip is fine.

If you don't like playing with this sort of thing then I recommend the test clip method. Yes. Test clip working on all M3 cluster eeprom.

The needles really aren't a problem.

[MILLER335I]

I have an M3 E90 coded cluster viriginized updated to the latest firmware and it all works in my car except the oil temp gauge thinks it is a fuel mileage gauge ( my 335i cluster didn't have that it had an oil temp gauge as well). Does anyone here know how to code/fix it? I know there is a program with a check/tick box that will do it but you need to be there in person to connect it. Anything else? I have a '07 335i and there is no tamper dot on my M3 cluster. Thanks all!

[Vangroover]

Originally Posted by Nitrousbird

I didn't take any photos (it was very early/dark when I tossed her in), though its no different than any other cluster swap.

I can't believe people pay $400 to have someone do this. I'll do a full write-up in the near future to make the whole process more clear.

Did you ever do a write up on the procedure?

[yeukfung]

Originally Posted by MILLER335I

I have an M3 E90 coded cluster viriginized updated to the latest firmware and it all works in my car except the oil temp gauge thinks it is a fuel mileage gauge ( my 335i cluster didn't have that it had an oil temp gauge as well). Does anyone here know how to code/fix it? I know there is a program with a check/tick box that will do it but you need to be there in person to connect it. Anything else? I have a '07 335i and there is no tamper dot on my M3 cluster. Thanks all!

Hi,

I wonder if you are following the upgrade path of firmware printed on the M3 cluster? or you are updating the firmware by your existing E90 firmware?

I have no problem on the M3 Cluster with the printed zb number, and the temp is display properly.

[yeukfung]

Thanks for the great info in this thread, I have successfully installed an M3 retrofit in my E90 330i pre LCI, with a LCI 2008 M3 instrument cluster:

something I would like to confirm during my action:
1) R270+ with SOP8 clip can be used to read/write the 08ODOWQ on board, so no need to do desoldering (Thanks Sensible sharing this direction, it's very handy and fast)


2) in the first attempt, i didn't do virginize the EPROM, just do the clear odometer info, and plan to use WINKFP to reflash the cluster ECU, but the VIN WILL NOT CHANGE


3) using tools HxD, and edit the exported dump file, virginize address is: Line 0x002E0 08 column to 0F column, change to FF for all 8 byte (the last digit may be checksum?)


one thing I still cannot resolve, as my car is non-M car with automatic transmission, I have already search quite a bit saying that only DCT car can have those M-style LCD display, with BIG P,R,N, I have tried coding the BMW M instead of BMW AG, but a gear icon is displayed when I change to D, is there anyway I can enjoy the M-style display if I don't have DCT transmission?


current look:


want to become:


Thanks everyone, and really appreciate all the great information.

[Maniac0908]

Originally Posted by howard5091

I am having an issue and I hope someone can help. I am swapping a 2011 M3 DCT cluster into my 2010 335 Auto and I am having an issue with the 270 programmer. When I set the chip to 080d0wq and I click read it gives me all 00s in every field of the hex editor. I tried it on 2 different computers and checked the chips connection in the ZIF socket. I highly doubt I wiped the chip taking it off of the board. Any tips would be great. Thanks!

Did you figure it out? Having same issue

[N22YF]

Originally Posted by Levanime

Guys, I've M3 cluster here virginized and coded to car,
everything works fine but in CIC, speed limit shows KM/H
obviously units are set to US (MPG, Miles, etc)

looks like KOMBI is from Canada (?)
any ideas how to fix it?

Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but Levanime, did you ever figure out how to get everything to be in MPH instead of KM/H?

[DurdenJames]

Originally Posted by Levanime

removing needles is fine if u have correct tool,
aligning them is pita

i use metal tool from this set https://nexthash.com/news/what-is-ot...w-does-it-work
and in secret is like tabletop miniature game it is perfect for this job

long side for speedo/tacho, short side for fuel/oil temp

Today, i've checked board of e9x cluster and couldnot find pins on the back

made to stick