[Gregrobin]

I asked MHD to compare my June log to yesterday's log. I also shared the ambient temperature where I live. They then said I do not have an IAT intercooler issue.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

I asked MHD to compare my June log to yesterday's log. I also shared the ambient temperature where I live. They then said I do not have an IAT intercooler issue.

[socalva]

Originally Posted by socalva

I've thrown a lot of money at this problem and I'm hoping someone can kindly look at my MHD log and let me know if anything jumps out at you? My turbo's are slow to spool and top out at 9-10PSI when target is 15. I also get shadow (inactive) 30FF, although I haven't triggered a full 30FF code even after hard mountain runs. I appreciate any help that I can get. I'm going to try replacing all vacuum lines this afternoon as well. My fuel trims look a little uneven so is it possible an injector or
injector seal is bad in bank 2? I used brand new seals before installing. I also see it goes into Fuel Mode 6 at the end of the pull

Mods:
N54 engine 124k miles
VRSF 5" IC
Tial BOV
VRSF chargepipe
MHD stage 1+ tune

Things that I've done within the last month:
Replaced both vanos solenoids
Replaced both boost controllers
Low mile (6k) used index 12 injectors (new seals, decouplers, and coding was done as well)
Reset adaptations
New Delphi coils
Spark plugs changed within the last 3k miles
Tightened all fittings, replaced charge pipe gasket as well
Walnut blast (about 3k ago)

MHD log:
https://datazap.me/u/socalva/n54-3rd...og=0&data=3-23

Here's an update if anyone's interested. I have logs after the rattle fix (adjusting rear actuator arm, and installing 2 washers on the front actuator). It helped a lot, but I was still not happy with the performance. I went ahead and bought a set of TD03 turbos from Turbo Labs America and now i'm finally happy! Lots of money spent in the last month or two but it was worth it.

Rattle fix log: https://datazap.me/u/socalva/135i-n5...og=0&data=3-19

Turbo Labs America (less than 100 miles after install): https://datazap.me/u/socalva/135i-n5...og=0&data=3-21

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by socalva

Here's an update if anyone's interested. I have logs after the rattle fix (adjusting rear actuator arm, and installing 2 washers on the front actuator). It helped a lot, but I was still not happy with the performance. I went ahead and bought a set of TD03 turbos from Turbo Labs America and now i'm finally happy! Lots of money spent in the last month or two but it was worth it.

Rattle fix log: https://datazap.me/u/socalva/135i-n5...og=0&data=3-19

Turbo Labs America (less than 100 miles after install): https://datazap.me/u/socalva/135i-n5...og=0&data=3-21

Looking much better, spool up is much faster too.

Slight overboosting though nothing serious, have you tried V7.1 stage 1+?

[socalva]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Looking much better, spool up is much faster too.

Slight overboosting though nothing serious, have you tried V7.1 stage 1+?

Nope, what's the benefit of running older maps?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by socalva

Nope, what's the benefit of running older maps?

V7.1 runs well on pretty much all cars. It also has lower boost target and timing compared to v9 according to MHD.

Some cars v7.1 runs better than v9. No harm trying it.

[Gregrobin]

MHD recommended I go from V9 to V8, Here's a log I just did at V8 2+

I uploaded 2 logs

https://datazap.me/u/gregrobin/greg-...og=0&data=3-22

[studio54]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

MHD recommended I go from V9 to V8, Here's a log I just did at V8 2+

I uploaded 2 logs

https://datazap.me/u/gregrobin/greg-...og=0&data=3-22

i don't think you have a boost leak

looks much better for WGDC, but iat looks high, how was the ambient temp? must be very hot

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by studio54

i don't think you have a boost leak

looks much better for WGDC, but iat looks high, how was the ambient temp? must be very hot

Yeah, I am learning how to read these now. Outdoor temp is low 90s, and humid. I see IAT got into the 140 to 150s during the pull. Damn, I do not want to have to remove/install that thing again.

Suggestions?

[studio54]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Yeah, I am learning how to read these now. Outdoor temp is low 90s, and humid. I see IAT got into the 140 to 150s during the pull. Damn, I do not want to have to remove/install that thing again.

Suggestions?

i dont know honnestly if it's about your FMIC, but for example, on mine FMIC (VRSF 5 HD) on a 3rd pull, it's almost flat... after pulling 4th a lot then it raises....

https://datazap.me/u/studio54/log-16...0&data=3-14-22

see, 3rd gear flat, then it raises but in 4th... (also temp are in degree celcius and not fahreneit)

[Gregrobin]

Yup, I compared both of my logs to yours. Similar trajectory, mine is just higher temp.

[studio54]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Yup, I compared both of my logs to yours. Similar trajectory, mine is just higher temp.

yep, but ambient temps are really high right now so maybe it's normal, i don't know

[studio54]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Yup, I compared both of my logs to yours. Similar trajectory, mine is just higher temp.

for your next logs, please tick "speed" and if the app says it's too much parameters, untick some useless parameter like gear or something else. And then log on a flat road, and pull 3rd (at 2500-3000) and 4th to measure your 100-200 kph so we can compare, i encourage all others members to do that. On mine, V7 was like 10.xx, and V9 is 9.xx for the 100-200, in mph it's 62 to 124

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by studio54

for your next logs, please tick "speed" and if the app says it's too much parameters, untick some useless parameter like gear or something else. And then log on a flat road, and pull 3rd (at 2500-3000) and 4th to measure your 100-200 kph so we can compare, i encourage all others members to do that. On mine, V7 was like 10.xx, and V9 is 9.xx for the 100-200, in mph it's 62 to 124

Speed was already checked, though I now see it doesn't show up in the log. Both pulls were on a flat road. I started M3 2500 - 3000, mashed the pedal, hit 6000 RPMs, went to M4, left off the pedal after 3-4 seconds.

Can you see both pulls from the drop down?

[studio54]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Speed was already checked, though I now see it doesn't show up in the log. Both pulls were on a flat road. I started M3 2500 - 3000, mashed the pedal, hit 6000 RPMs, went to M4, left off the pedal after 3-4 seconds.

Can you see both pulls from the drop down?

Yep, speed doesn't seem to be checked on your log.

And yes, your spooling seems correct, from 2500 to 3000 rpm, you make almost 15 psi, so ~500 rpm to reach target and then your boost stays on target.

It's just that your iat raises a bit too much with an upgraded FMIC.

Do you run DCI or stock air box ?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Yeah, I am learning how to read these now. Outdoor temp is low 90s, and humid. I see IAT got into the 140 to 150s during the pull. Damn, I do not want to have to remove/install that thing again.

Suggestions?

Started at 126F and went upto 154F, that's not looking good.

Zero timing corrections on the pull, only a minor post shift correction, are you using Octane booster?

Have you checked if the IAT's drop as soon as you continue cruising after the run?

[Gregrobin]

Yes to DCI, no octane boost, I haven't checked IAT after switching to cruising after the pull.

[studio54]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Yes to DCI, no octane boost, I haven't checked IAT after switching to cruising after the pull.

i am a man who prefer the stock air box over DCI, i feel it's better on low rpm (it rips harder), and for IAT, but lots of members will say that DCI is a must and blablabla.... i swapped so many times between DCI and stock air box to say i prefer the stock air box feeling... you may try with stock air box if your IATs are better if you want.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Yes to DCI, no octane boost, I haven't checked IAT after switching to cruising after the pull.

Worth checking, if they aren't dropping significantly soon after you've done the pull then they might just be too much for the FMIC you have installed, assuming you've done it properly.

Still don't understand why you have zero timing corrections on the pull with such high IAT's

[Gregrobin]

I just did a mix of city/highway driving. I left the car in Drive. Ambient temp is 91. I did not mash the pedal, normal cruising. The IAT got as high as 128 and stayed between 118 and 122. That feels high to me for an aftermarket larger intercooler.

I shared the logs with ARM as well, the Intercooler manufacturer. They state with my set up I need to go to a 7" cooler, and, of course, they can offer me a great deal on one.

Does everyone agree I need a 7" cooler with my current set up? See my signature for my current set up.

[Gregrobin]

Just did another pull:

https://datazap.me/u/gregrobin/greg-...0&data=3-17-25

IAT does drop down to low 120s once in 4th after about 20 - 30 seconds.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Just did another pull:

https://datazap.me/u/gregrobin/greg-...0&data=3-17-25

IAT does drop down to low 120s once in 4th after about 20 - 30 seconds.

It's better, seems like a long time for IAT's to drop.

You could run a less aggressive map (Stage 1+ or Stage 2) see how it goes. Or alternatively try v7.1 stage 2+ and relog.