[datbimmer]

Very good idea. This can probably be done with an angle grinder a lot faster.

[rogerdiaz]

this will encourage me to do my own maintenance. Going to find some machine shops. All the indies and even dealers have destroyed my jack pad pieces/points.

[Cornyulio]

Bringing back an old thread

I was looking for jack stand options for my vehicles - next big project is exhaust work. I was looking into the Quick Jack, Kwik Lift, Race Ramp Wheel Cribs, etc. when I found this old thread.

I've got 4 of these HF stands and this would literally be a $0 way to do what I want, considering I'll be on a creeper regardless of the other options. My question is this: "Is this safe for the 4 jack points"?

I have seen pictures of cracked jack points and believe they are made of plastic. Will this cause undue stress on them and have them fail? (in all likelihood). Thanks for your thoughts on this.

[whyzee125]

Wow I really like this idea, thanks! I just put the little V around the edges of my jack pads but it's not a very good way to do it. Seems secure but really boogers up the jack pads. I may give this a try

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by Cornyulio

Bringing back an old thread

I was looking for jack stand options for my vehicles - next big project is exhaust work. I was looking into the Quick Jack, Kwik Lift, Race Ramp Wheel Cribs, etc. when I found this old thread.

I've got 4 of these HF stands and this would literally be a $0 way to do what I want, considering I'll be on a creeper regardless of the other options. My question is this: "Is this safe for the 4 jack points"?

I have seen pictures of cracked jack points and believe they are made of plastic. Will this cause undue stress on them and have them fail? (in all likelihood). Thanks for your thoughts on this.

All of our jack points are plastic pieces that have three small posts that go into the side frame. They are replaceable -- still haven't figured out (besides cost and reoccurring return expense) why these aren't made of metal (visual reasons?) and part of the frame itself.

In any case, what he's done here is actually more secure than putting it on the edges since there is less chance for deflection. There is an uber nice stand on ebay/amazon that has it in a three point with a pin post...but a LOT more expensive than doing this.

[Cornyulio]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

All of our jack points are plastic pieces that have three small posts that go into the side frame. They are replaceable -- still haven't figured out (besides cost and reoccurring return expense) why these aren't made of metal (visual reasons?) and part of the frame itself.

In any case, what he's done here is actually more secure than putting it on the edges since there is less chance for deflection. There is an uber nice stand on ebay/amazon that has it in a three point with a pin post...but a LOT more expensive than doing this.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. This gives me more confidence and it makes sense the way you explain it. Thank you.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

All of our jack points are plastic pieces that have three small posts that go into the side frame. They are replaceable -- still haven't figured out (besides cost and reoccurring return expense) why these aren't made of metal (visual reasons?) and part of the frame itself.

In any case, what he's done here is actually more secure than putting it on the edges since there is less chance for deflection. There is an uber nice stand on ebay/amazon that has it in a three point with a pin post...but a LOT more expensive than doing this.

They are not made of metal because they are designed to break away from the rocker panel in case they hit something, like a curb. If they were made of metal they could possibly damage the chassis by deforming rather than breaking off the car.

All you need to prevent damage to the lift point blocks is to use the proper technique when using them as a jacking point, or use the proper flat-top jack stand to set the car on. The type of jackstands the OP modified to fit inside the lifting block are frame stands, which put undue stress on the walls of the lifting block and deform them. Most people don't really understand how to use a floor jack and damage the lifting blocks. The OP's modified stands actually concentrate more of the car's weight on a smaller surface area of the lifting block than does a flat-top stand design.

Just get better stands designed to support cars with lifting blocks. ESCO makes a nice stand for the purpose.

[Bali]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Just get better stands designed to support cars with lifting blocks. ESCO makes a nice stand for the purpose.

FWIW: I use flat top jack stands along with these urethane pads.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/X2-RED-Poly...8AAOSw9N1VqrfU

The lifting force is still applied to the bottom edge of the jack point as it's meant to, while the pad deforms a little. This prevents the jack point from being marred up by the stand and gives a little extra grip between stand and jack point. The top of this urethane pad is short enough that it doesn't contact the inner part of the jack point, it's just a locator really.

I don't think the inside part of the jack point is meant to receive all that lifting force that OP's modified stands apply.

On a related note, I really like jack stands that have a screw height adjustment instead of locking pins at fixed height intervals. Similar to what these have.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...6134_200616134

You just jack the car up to the desired height, screw the jack stand's contact point up snug to the car, then lower the car onto them. There's no concern about the car lowering precisely onto the jack stand.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by BaliDawg

FWIW: I use flat top jack stands along with these urethane pads.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/X2-RED-Poly...8AAOSw9N1VqrfU

The lifting force is still applied to the bottom edge of the jack point as it's meant to, while the pad deforms a little. This prevents the jack point from being marred up by the stand and gives a little extra grip between stand and jack point. The top of this urethane pad is short enough that it doesn't contact the inner part of the jack point, it's just a locator really.

I don't think the inside part of the jack point is meant to receive all that lifting force that OP's modified stands apply.

On a related note, I really like jack stands that have a screw height adjustment instead of locking pins at fixed height intervals. Similar to what these have.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...6134_200616134

You just jack the car up to the desired height, screw the jack stand's contact point up snug to the car, then lower the car onto them. There's no concern about the car lowering precisely onto the jack stand.

This was my first thought when I saw this thread a few years ago. The lifting blocks do snap into the steel rocker panel underneath all the plastic. I think the cavity in the lifting blocks is really there so the walls can break away if necessary, but I do think it is better to distribute the weight over the entire surface area of the block's base.

Again, the blocks are consumable for most respects. I'm not sure why people get so upset they get deformed or chipped up over time. A-retentiveness I guess.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

This was my first thought when I saw this thread a few years ago. The lifting blocks do snap into the steel rocker panel underneath all the plastic. I think the cavity in the lifting blocks is really there so the walls can break away if necessary, but I do think it is better to distribute the weight over the entire surface area of the block's base.

Again, the blocks are consumable for most respects. I'm not sure why people get so upset they get deformed or chipped up over time. A-retentiveness I guess.

For me it's more about when you really want to check something out underneath only to find that one of them had popped off. I literally lost a few of these, and no, I don't curb hop often. So it was off to the parts store before I could do what I really needed to. In one case a coolant hose had failed, so nada on running the car to the store. I now keep two spares in my trunk.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

For me it's more about when you really want to check something out underneath only to find that one of them had popped off. I literally lost a few of these, and no, I don't curb hop often. So it was off to the parts store before I could do what I really needed to. In one case a coolant hose had failed, so nada on running the car to the store. I now keep two spares in my trunk.

I have 2 spares each for my three cars.

[spta97]

Bump for old thread that is new to me.

Does anyone have an opinion on performing this mod on an aluminum jack?

Other than probably being easier to cut, I don't see an issue as it is just removing the ears.

I have an extra set of jacks like the below from HF so would like to do this mod on them and leave my steel ones alone for when I need them for other vehicles:

[Bush Pilot]

You're a genius!

[spta97]

Just to add another option (not sure if it was discussed) but instead of cutting, I ended up getting these adaptors off of eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333533056341

They fit on my existing aluminum HF jacks and have worked out awesome. What I like about them is it supports on the frame of the jack point as well as on the inside.

I have two sets of the HF ones (and another steel set from Craftsman) so I just keep them on all the time and swap jacks for my truck vs. my BMW.

When I just need to jack up one wheel I just use my jack and the pad adaptor that you can get on Amazon, but when I have the entire car up in the air I use the eBay adaptors.

They are very well made and good seller. But you need to find the ones which fit your particular jack stand.

[peter_gibbons]

These pads fit on regular jack stands:
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Rub..._hp_atf_m&th=1

[Marlo325]

Originally Posted by peter_gibbons

These pads fit on regular jack stands:
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Rub..._hp_atf_m&th=1

This is great! Have you tried them?

[peter_gibbons]

Not yet, they’re on the way.

I did make a pair from some other cheap amazon jack stand pads by cutting the rectangle into the top. (Hope the picture comes through ok.). They worked fine. But these other ones should be better.

I just used a utility knife; tried the dremel first but it didn’t work very well, just melted the rubber and made a big mess.

[Marlo325]

Originally Posted by peter_gibbons

Not yet, they’re on the way.

I did make a pair from some other cheap amazon jack stand pads by cutting the rectangle into the top. (Hope the picture comes through ok.). They worked fine. But these other ones should be better.

I just used a utility knife; tried the dremel first but it didn’t work very well, just melted the rubber and made a big mess.

Cool, going to order 4 myself. Let us know how you like them when you recieve them.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Old post but figured I'd share my 2 cents. I feel like all this work is not worth it. Maybe it's just the way my own stands are made but if I turn them in line (they are V grooved as well) with the long side of the rectangle they sit perfectly fine. Also don't understand the point of using adapters for jacking since the jack pads blocks on the car are made to receive a flat surface like a lift post arm or the jack's saddle. You can just swap the blocks when they get to mangled.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

For me it's more about when you really want to check something out underneath only to find that one of them had popped off. I literally lost a few of these, and no, I don't curb hop often. So it was off to the parts store before I could do what I really needed to. In one case a coolant hose had failed, so nada on running the car to the store. I now keep two spares in my trunk.

Old post as well but I had to share this tip for any future readers, if this happens to one of you, you can simply still use your jack stand where the block would be, you just have to obviously extend it more since the three other corners will have their blocks. Had it happened once and my V groove top sits nicely on the "frame".

[peter_gibbons]

Marlo -
They don't fit "perfect" - there's maybe 2mm of play lengthwise and a little more side to side. They fit on a jack stand just fine. Overall, the car feels more stable when sitting on jack stands. Glad I got em. Certainly worth the buck 2 80 I paid for em.

Narwahl -
You're right, the blocks on the car are flat so no reason to use anything else with the floor jack.
My jack stands did a number on the blocks though, mangled them up a bit, so I'll be using these pads from now on.