[GFX8]

Hello, I will try and provide as much detailed information as possible for everyone.
I purchased an 07 328I a month back, Before purchasing it I knew the car was straight piped. and had a small leak in the VC, the vehicle has 165k miles on it, it is a manual as well.

The car will throw codes that lead to not having a cat (p0420 & p0430). and also the air injection pump. First thing I did was have the VC and the VCG replaced. that eliminated that faint oil smell when the car was at a slight hill slant. after abut 2 weeks, the car would have some slight rough idle when I would be at a stop light. So I had the plugs and coils replaced. The car ran fine for about 1 week. than it started throwing the following code.

1: P0101 and several misfire on cylinders

I replaced the Maf and the Disa valves as we noticed that the valves had allot of gunk in them and one of them looked repaired with some type of adhesive.

the car ran fine, and then I received the Air Injection pump by mail, so this is a fairly easy install, and didn't need it to go to the shop for this.I decided save some money, so myself and my pops tackled it. upon tightening everything up my father dropped the wrench on the positive end by the passengers side and it threw a spark. after that, I checked to see if anything was burnt, everything looked fine. started the car and it gave me the following code P00BC Powertrain. The car had somewhat of a misfire on neutral, and it drives fine at high speeds, but when I came to a stop it would shut off. like if I just turned the car off with the key. It will start right up and drive again, until I came to a stop each time.

I took it to a BMW shop and they said that where the wrench landed was in the path of what powers the DME. so they assumed it was the DME, The had the DME swapped and transferred all my vehicles information to the new DME, but it still has the same issues. Drives at high speeds than dies out at a stop sign. So can anyone shed some light. I have not even had much time to enjoy the car, since its been at the shop now two weeks. I don't think I left anything out. Thank you all in advance

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by GFX8

...07 328I [N51] ...The car will throw codes that lead to not having a cat (p0420 & p0430). and also the air injection pump
... after abut 2 weeks, the car would have some slight rough idle when I would be at a stop light. So I had the plugs and coils replaced. The car ran fine for about 1 week. than it started throwing the following code: P0101 and several misfire on cylinders [P0101 | 2D15 | Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance; That code can be caused by air which is UNMETERED by the MAF (did NOT pass the MAF) entering the Intake, commonly occurring AFTER VCG replacement due to leak in breather hose from rear of VC; rough idle and stalling at low RPM are common symptoms of such a "vacuum leak"]
I replaced the Maf [that Fault Code did NOT mean the MAF was defective, but rather that the MAF signal was NOT consistent with RPM] and the Disa valves as we noticed that the valves had allot of gunk in them and one of them looked repaired with some type of adhesive.

the car ran fine, and then I received the Air Injection pump by mail, so this is a fairly easy install, and didn't need it to go to the shop for this.I decided save some money, so myself and my pops tackled it. upon tightening everything up my father dropped the wrench on the positive end by the passengers side and it threw a spark. [IF the engine was OFF when wrench caused B+ short to ground, that would NOT have damaged your DME, as that didn't cause any voltage spike, etc.] after that, I checked to see if anything was burnt, everything looked fine. started the car and it gave me the following code P00BC Powertrain. [BMW Fault Code Lookup Definition of P00BC: N51 | P00BC | 2D06 | DME: Air-mass system | MSV80 | Engine electronics | View] The car had somewhat of a misfire on neutral, and it drives fine at high speeds, but when I came to a stop it would shut off. like if I just turned the car off with the key. It will start right up and drive again, until I came to a stop each time. [ Rough Idle & Stalling a Low RPM are commonly caused by too lean mixture at idle, due to "Vacuum Leak" as described above]...

Welcome to the Forum!

QUESTIONS:
1) Do you have ANY Scan Tool, even a simple P-code reader that can also read parameters such as Air Mass Flow Rate?
2) Have you tried simply operating the vehicle with the MAF Connector disconneced (so that it doesn't send a signal to the DME)?
3) If NOT, try that and see if it operates without rough idle and/or stall at low RPM, as the engine will be operating on a "Mapped" enrichment program instead of based upon a "bogus" MAF signal which can result from "Vacuum Leak." Of course you WILL have an SES light and Fault Code in DME re NO MAF signal, but that will NOT affect DME function and Engine operation.
4) Did the shop do any test for "Vacuum Leak"? Do you have a can of Ether/ Starting Fluid at home? If NOT pickup a can of that as you drive your car home from the shop, and we'll suggest how to test.

I have serious questions about a shop that blames the DME for the symptoms you have described, particularly if they did NOT have any other basis for a "Bad DME" diagnosis than what you have provided. If the car is still there, I would cut your losses and drive it home. Oh, & make sure you get your ORIGINAL DME before you leave, as it's virtually certain there WAS nothing wrong with it. Stop at an Advance Auto or Autozone on the way and get any DME (Engine ECU) Fault Codes read, along with Freeze Frame Data if they will also do that. Get Ether.

If you do NOT have simple scan tool, let us know if you have a Windows 10 Laptop, or Android device, and someone can help you become able to do your own Vehicle Diagnostics, so you avoid shops that don't know what they are doing (hopefully you will soon know what YOU are doing with help from the Forum).

George

[GFX8]

Thanks for the reply, The shop put back my original DME, They took the car to a BMW Shop that has knowledge of reading live data and DME replacements in Santa Clarita, with the new DME it still gave out the same symptoms. I am giving the shop until this weekend, than I will just take my loss, and follow your advice. I am wondering if at this point I should just take it to the dealership. I am scared at what they will tell me the cost of repair will be...

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Welcome to the Forum!

QUESTIONS:
1) Do you have ANY Scan Tool, even a simple P-code reader that can also read parameters such as Air Mass Flow Rate?
2) Have you tried simply operating the vehicle with the MAF Connector disconneced (so that it doesn't send a signal to the DME)?
3) If NOT, try that and see if it operates without rough idle and/or stall at low RPM, as the engine will be operating on a "Mapped" enrichment program instead of based upon a "bogus" MAF signal which can result from "Vacuum Leak." Of course you WILL have an SES light and Fault Code in DME re NO MAF signal, but that will NOT affect DME function and Engine operation.
4) Did the shop do any test for "Vacuum Leak"? Do you have a can of Ether/ Starting Fluid at home? If NOT pickup a can of that as you drive your car home from the shop, and we'll suggest how to test.

I have serious questions about a shop that blames the DME for the symptoms you have described, particularly if they did NOT have any other basis for a "Bad DME" diagnosis than what you have provided. If the car is still there, I would cut your losses and drive it home. Oh, & make sure you get your ORIGINAL DME before you leave, as it's virtually certain there WAS nothing wrong with it. Stop at an Advance Auto or Autozone on the way and get any DME (Engine ECU) Fault Codes read, along with Freeze Frame Data if they will also do that. Get Ether.

If you do NOT have simple scan tool, let us know if you have a Windows 10 Laptop, or Android device, and someone can help you become able to do your own Vehicle Diagnostics, so you avoid shops that don't know what they are doing (hopefully you will soon know what YOU are doing with help from the Forum).

George

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by GFX8

Thanks for the reply, The shop put back my original DME, They took the car to a BMW Shop that has knowledge of reading live data and DME replacements in Santa Clarita, with the new DME it still gave out the same symptoms. I am giving the shop until this weekend, than I will just take my loss, and follow your advice. I am wondering if at this point I should just take it to the dealership. I am scared at what they will tell me the cost of repair will be...

I understand the frustration and confusion that can arise when someone who does NOT have a good, basic understanding of automotive systems is placed in your situation. What I tried to do is ask SPECIFIC questions or suggest SPECIFIC steps you can take to provide INFORMATION to people on this Forum, so we can suggest best "next steps" you can take.

I understand that it is difficult to identify which/whose "advice" to take if you don't have sufficient technical background yourself to evaluate the different suggestions.

That said, we DO need specific responses to the specific questions I posed in my previous Reply, before we can make any reliable suggestions. ALSO, since you are already paying shops to try to DIAGNOSE your issue, you are entitled to know SPECIFICALLY WHAT they are charging ($$$) you for:
1) BEFORE paying, make sure the Invoice specifically identifies any Tests conducted, and the Results of those tests. MOST importantly, you want to know WHAT DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) or FAULT CODES, whether in P-code or Hex-code format, they read, what Scan Tool or Software was used to read them. If the Invoice or Statement does NOT contain those facts, get them to put them in writing, confirmed by the Tech who actually performed those tests, or read those codes.
2) Get them to provide a short, written "Diagnosis" or opinion of what is causing the symptoms (Rough Idle, Stalling when coming to stop, etc.) and any Fault codes read.
3) Get them to identify ANYTHING they replaced, adjusted or changed, IN WRITING. It doesn't have to be lengthy, just a summary. Most reputable shops provide such details as records in the normal course of business.
4) Ask them if they have any other notes or records of codes read, tests done, diagnosis made, that they have for their OWN records, other than what they are providing to you, and if so, may you have a copy of that.

HOPEFULLY, you are dealing with a Reputable Shop and they will properly diagnose the issue and correct it at a reasonable price. IF that does NOT happen, then please provide us with answers to the earlier questions, and attach scan(s) of any documents/ Invoices which provide any details of what was done, as described above.

George

[924er]

Seems like you are located in LA, so many independent BMW dealerships around. Not sure which one you went to but seems like they misdiagnosed your problem and made you pay for it. I would be pissed. Definitely hit up another shop.

Sucks buying a car with problems from the start. I'm still trying to wrap my head around who wound straight pipe a 328i, must be loud.

[GFX8]

Yes I am located in Pasadena, the shop is local to me, I will be visiting the shop today and get an update. I am thinking I should just bight the bullet and take the car into the BMW dealer. My concerns is that what are the possibilities that the shop suggest that due to the current modifications they cant determinate if that is whats causing the issue, and will be forced to but The resonator, Cat and exhaust.

[GFX8]

The car is really not loud at all. its NA so that probably makes a difference. But I have noticed on cold starts it has some pops and burbles, which I am assuming it is normal.

Originally Posted by 924er

Seems like you are located in LA, so many independent BMW dealerships around. Not sure which one you went to but seems like they misdiagnosed your problem and made you pay for it. I would be pissed. Definitely hit up another shop.

Sucks buying a car with problems from the start. I'm still trying to wrap my head around who wound straight pipe a 328i, must be loud.

[tcphoto]

It sounds like you've thrown a lot of parts at it without a proper diagnosis. I'd never take my car to a dealership unless it's for a recall. There are plenty of Independents out there but you've got to tap into the regional forum to get recommendations. I would take time and read up on the codes, get something like Carly for BMW app and a wifi OBD module from Amazon and go from there. Carly pushes their module but I've had no problems using my cheap Amazon version.

[GFX8]

I do have an off the shelf Scanner, And the current code that is on there is the following.
P00BC Powertrain

Originally Posted by tcphoto

It sounds like you've thrown a lot of parts at it without a proper diagnosis. I'd never take my car to a dealership unless it's for a recall. There are plenty of Independents out there but you've got to tap into the regional forum to get recommendations. I would take time and read up on the codes, get something like Carly for BMW app and a wifi OBD module from Amazon and go from there. Carly pushes their module but I've had no problems using my cheap Amazon version.

[GFX8]

Which led to replacing the Mass airflow sensor.

[TunafishE93]

Some possibilities for P00BC ,
"-Defective HFM, problem with airflow to HFM,
clean air tube fallen off intake air noise
attenuator
- Leak within induction tract on engine side of
throttle valve (leaks in vicinity of intake air
plenum chamber, open oil filler cap)
- Malfunction in components affecting airflow
(valve lift monitoring, position of VANOS,
throttle valve, pressure sensors....)
- Compressor bypass valve stuck in open
position (accompanied by low boost pressure
malfunction)
- Severely contaminated air filter"

And some stuff to check
"-Check wiring harness on HFM
- Check intake system for leaks on engine side
of throttle valve
- Seal on oil filler cap is defective
- Problem with airflow to HFM (air filter insert is
defective or installed incorrectly)
- Replace HFM"

The HFM or Hot Film Meter is important in the performance and fuel economy of the engine. Faulty HFM can cause rough running, poor idle, lack of performance, misfires, and higher fuel consumption.

[GFX8]

Just came back from visiting the shop. The next steps he explained will be the following, checking continuity from the MAF to the ECU, He wants to see if there is an issue with the harness as well. re-checking the intake manifold, he plans on taking it out. it is a gremlin for sure,
the car turns on fine and is smooth, but after a few minutes of driving, it becomes Jerky at times, and when it comes to a stop a stop light or stop, the car just dies out. And it is only throwing that P00BC Code. The shop did two smoke tests, one before replacing the Valve Gasket, and another after. There was no leaks.

[GFX8]

Thank you for your input. I have passed this along as well.

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

Some possibilities for P00BC ,
"-Defective HFM, problem with airflow to HFM,
clean air tube fallen off intake air noise
attenuator
- Leak within induction tract on engine side of
throttle valve (leaks in vicinity of intake air
plenum chamber, open oil filler cap)
- Malfunction in components affecting airflow
(valve lift monitoring, position of VANOS,
throttle valve, pressure sensors....)
- Compressor bypass valve stuck in open
position (accompanied by low boost pressure
malfunction)
- Severely contaminated air filter"

And some stuff to check
"-Check wiring harness on HFM
- Check intake system for leaks on engine side
of throttle valve
- Seal on oil filler cap is defective
- Problem with airflow to HFM (air filter insert is
defective or installed incorrectly)
- Replace HFM"

The HFM or Hot Film Meter is important in the performance and fuel economy of the engine. Faulty HFM can cause rough running, poor idle, lack of performance, misfires, and higher fuel consumption.

[GFX8]

Small update, the Shop thinks they might have found and fixed the issue, there was a single wire that provides information to the maf on flow frequency that was grounding, so the sleeve was exposed and grounding, They re sleeved it and test drove it for 20 minutes with no jerking or shutting off. I am waiting for them to give me the ok to pick it up today. I will keep everyone updated on the specific Circuit line that was defective.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by GFX8

Small update, the Shop thinks they might have found and fixed the issue, there was a single wire that provides information to the maf on flow frequency that was grounding, so the sleeve was exposed and grounding, They re sleeved it and test drove it for 20 minutes with no jerking or shutting off. I am waiting for them to give me the ok to pick it up today. I will keep everyone updated on the specific Circuit line that was defective.

Kudo's to your Shop! Most shops just want to throw parts at it instead of properly testing the wiring between the MAF Sensor and DME in this case. Of course there is LABOR involved in testing circuits, but there is also THOUGHT and research involved in doing it properly, and THAT is where many shops come up short.

The MAF Sensor provides a "Signal" or "information" to the DME, but it needs Voltage Supply from the proper fuse, and proper function & integrity of ~ 3 different wires to the DME to properly provide "signal" to the DME. As an example of one possible setup of the MAF Sensor circuit, here is how it is wired on MY 2007 328xi, built 3/14/2007. I provide this as opposed to one specifically for your "2007 328i E92" since I don't know your build date and the system changed in the middle of the 2007 model run, effective 3/1/2007:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/x4Tiyao

Thanks for letting us know you got a good outcome, and congratulations to your "Shop."

George

[GFX8]

Will see tonight, they kept it to just be 100% that was the root cause. Again I will update the thread tonight.

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Kudo's to your Shop! Most shops just want to throw parts at it instead of properly testing the wiring between the MAF Sensor and DME in this case. Of course there is LABOR involved in testing circuits, but there is also THOUGHT and research involved in doing it properly, and THAT is where many shops come up short.

The MAF Sensor provides a "Signal" or "information" to the DME, but it needs Voltage Supply from the proper fuse, and proper function & integrity of ~ 3 different wires to the DME to properly provide "signal" to the DME. As an example of one possible setup of the MAF Sensor circuit, here is how it is wired on MY 2007 328xi, built 3/14/2007. I provide this as opposed to one specifically for your "2007 328i E92" since I don't know your build date and the system changed in the middle of the 2007 model run, effective 3/1/2007:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/x4Tiyao

Thanks for letting us know you got a good outcome, and congratulations to your "Shop."

George

[GFX8]

Hopefully the final update for this issue, I picked up the car on Friday, and it has been running great, seems as that Wire that was bad was the issue causing the Code and the symptoms to the MAF. Thank you everyone who chimed in, very much appreciated.