[Rmtt]

I just replaced my valve cover gasket on my N52 after installing my MILVS. I took my valvetronics motor out with no issues using the Allen wrench to turn it CW until I felt tension then backed off slightly.

After putting everything back together, it lined up perfectly.

Do I have to do anything for "relearning" of the valvetronics motor? I've read about just putting the key in, ignition button on without starting the car....and let it sit for 30-60 seconds.

Also....props to everyone who's shared information on this site. I've turned wrenches on all my cars, but never had experience with BMW's. Thanks to hassmaschine posts and his videos. I just rented the spring compressor tool, but after seeing how everything comes apart.....his trick of using a string and open end wrench would have sufficed. I was just nervous and didn't want to screw anything up on my first attempt at doing this job.

Thanks!

[Biginboca]

The key in ignition on for 30 seconds is good. You should be all set

[hassmaschine]

You don't need to re-learn anything. The system does that all automatically. You can force it if you have issues, but otherwise don't worry about it.

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

You don't need to re-learn anything. The system does that all automatically. You can force it if you have issues, but otherwise don't worry about it.

Would it be the same case if I were to replace it with a brand new VVT motor?

I'm getting near to having my MILVs put in, car's got 135k miles already. Still running perfect aside from the recent O2 sensor heated circuit code. I'm thinking to replace the VVT motor on the same job when I do the MILV's.

[Rmtt]

Thanks Biginboca and hassmaschine .

It's nice to have resources like you guys available for us BMW newbies!

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by yupetc

Would it be the same case if I were to replace it with a brand new VVT motor?

I'm getting near to having my MILVs put in, car's got 135k miles already. Still running perfect aside from the recent O2 sensor heated circuit code. I'm thinking to replace the VVT motor on the same job when I do the MILV's.

Unless it's giving you issues, don't waste the money lol

And yeah they all learn automatically, you can hear the motor actuate sometimes when you put the key in but don't start it.

[hassmaschine]

There's zero reason to replace the VVT motor unless its damaged. It's not like its inaccessible, other than the beauty cover I don't think you have to remove anything to get to it.

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

There's zero reason to replace the VVT motor unless its damaged. It's not like its inaccessible, other than the beauty cover I don't think you have to remove anything to get to it.

Could the VVT motor become weak over time and won't actuate as fast as it needs to? And in this case, though VVT motor still functions, it won't trigger an error code, but a hidden fact that it may have an aged, weak activation? Would this be a cause of lower performance? I'm only asking because I've kept my care in pristine shape, and wanting to keep it forever running in perfect form.

[hassmaschine]

I don't believe so. 130k isn't exactly high miles either.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by yupetc

Could the VVT motor become weak over time and won't actuate as fast as it needs to? And in this case, though VVT motor still functions, it won't trigger an error code, but a hidden fact that it may have an aged, weak activation? Would this be a cause of lower performance? I'm only asking because I've kept my care in pristine shape, and wanting to keep it forever running in perfect form.

On N52 it is a stepper motor, doubt it will get weak by time.

[Rmtt]

So I didn't think my VCG was leaking as I haven't had any signs, but it was as I had oil in #3 and #4 spark plug wells.

Like an idiot, I didn't change plugs as I haven't had any issues. Started the car up.....it would run at idle but stumble when revved. Code reader showed combustion misfire cylinder #4. So I cleared the codes, swapped the coils, and restarted it to see if it moved. But it stayed at cylinder #4.

So it looks like I'm replacing plugs tomorrow, then I will see where I'm at.

[Rmtt]

So yesterday after getting all the errands done for/with my wife....I had a chance to get back to the car. Changed all plugs, and just double-checked everything over....especially the injector wiring harness after pulling that code yesterday.

Car started right up and is running smooth as silk. Re-Scanned with Protool....no errors. I let it warm up, and after every rev it settled back into range instantly.

Overall....I would rate the VCG job difficulty as a 6 out of a 10. Mainly because of all the stuff you have to take off, not break, and not lose.

The MILVS I would rate a 4 out of 10 as I took my time and removed the spring completely. Once they were off and the supports undone, you know I had to pull the intermediate rockers as I wanted to see how everything worked in regards to the Eccentric Shaft.

If doing this job again, I believe I would pull the wiper arms and cowl across the windshield just to give more clearance for removal and reinstallation of the Valve Cover.

The more room you have, the less chance you have of gasket issues when going back in. Also my original VCG was very brittle. And my car is approaching 74K+ miles. So I'm surprised it hadn't developed a huge leak yet.

Today I change the oil and coolant. I plan to load the tune in the next few days.

Obligatory shot of valvetrain before I vigorously cleaned everything...

[gT-BMW]

nice work!! i'm also considering getting milvs but still on the fence about it. can you do a before and after review?

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by gT-BMW

nice work!! i'm also considering getting milvs but still on the fence about it. can you do a before and after review?

I will. All that's left is the tune, but That will be next weekend as I left my laptop at work.

I will update it here.

[Volasko]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

I will. All that's left is the tune, but That will be next weekend as I left my laptop at work.

I will update it here.

That is going to be one hell of a 128i once you get the tuning figured out! Please post an acceleration video once done and your impressions of the MILVS.

[Rmtt]

So I wanted to post an update. I loaded my Tune Saturday morning, and we took the car out that afternoon to get some seat time in.

I'm very impressed. It kind of feels like installing headers again, but the power you get is in the lower rpm range of the car vs. the headers which shine up top. No doubt there is more TQ across the board, but at 3K and above it makes a huge difference under wide open throttle.

When I did my headers and tune, it was the same thing, but most of those gains seemed to be felt at around 5K rpm and up, and the car would rev much faster across the entire range.

With the Milvs, it pulls hard from 2K to about 6700 rpm where you feel the 3SI run out of "gas". But by that point, you are going way faster than the posted speed limit.

This morning...it seemed even stronger. But it was also just me in the car and the temperature was around 36°F. I went out around 2:45am for the gym, and after the car warmed up I got on a lonely stretch of road where I could play. I didn't even go into 1st...just slowed down enough where 2nd had me around 2800 rpm. Redlining 2nd and 3rd had me just crossing into triple digit numbers...so I backed off pretty quickly. And I have the digital speedo coded in. But it just kept pulling and pulling. I have also read that as the car adapts...it gets better.

My wife says she can definitely feel a difference. She asked why I shut down when I did during one of our runs yesterday, and I told her the speed we were at. She said that would get her into trouble as even at much higher speeds in this car, it feels like you aren't going that much faster than the speed limit.

Overall...I'm extremely happy with the results and it was definitely worth it. No idea what the gain was, but you can certainly feel a difference.

[Joebie]

Did you notice a power difference after MILV installation, but before the tune?

I have MILVs in my engine but havent gotten around to a tune yet, im assuming its the tune that really wakes up the potential?

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by Joester

Did you notice a power difference after MILV installation, but before the tune?

I have MILVs in my engine but havent gotten around to a tune yet, im assuming its the tune that really wakes up the potential?

No...and I beat the sh!t out of the car that whole week before the tune. I wasn't expecting any differences...but just wanted to make sure I had no leaks after pulling the Valve Cover.

There is no mistaking once you load the tune for it!

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Joester

Did you notice a power difference after MILV installation, but before the tune?

I have MILVs in my engine but havent gotten around to a tune yet, im assuming its the tune that really wakes up the potential?

There is no difference unless you get a tune. Heck, after I installed mine (before loading up the tune), I felt that I actually lost power.

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by W37V

There is no difference unless you get a tune. Heck, after I installed mine (before loading up the tune), I felt that I actually lost power.

How much was the tune for the milvs? And where did u purchase the milvs from?

[W37V]

Originally Posted by tsosby20

How much was the tune for the milvs? And where did u purchase the milvs from?

There is only one place to buy MILVS from - Marty (aka CobraMarty), who was unfortunately banned from this forum. You can buy it from his website google: bimmer milvs

At the time of install, there was only one tuner who supported milvs mod. I am not aware that anyone else supports them. TUne is developed by Bob from BPC, now Stage FP. http://stagefp.com/product/sfp-n51-n52-tune/

MILVS are $350 - one of the chepast mods you can buy. I would pick this over headers any day. (after I installed these, I actually ended up removing my headers)
Tune is $650 or $750- worth it

[Volasko]

Originally Posted by W37V

There is only one place to buy MILVS from - Marty (aka CobraMarty), who was unfortunately banned from this forum. You can buy it from his website google: bimmer milvs

At the time of install, there was only one tuner who supported milvs mod. I am not aware that anyone else supports them. TUne is developed by Bob from BPC, now Stage FP. http://stagefp.com/product/sfp-n51-n52-tune/

MILVS are $350 - one of the chepast mods you can buy. I would pick this over headers any day. (after I installed these, I actually ended up removing my headers)
Tune is $650 or $750- worth it

Why did you remove the headers? The noise?