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      03-21-2016, 04:35 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Yeah I just jack the front of the car up. I might try jacking the car up evenly next oil change and see if that makes much of a difference.


I'm with you on jack stands I hate using them so oil changes I just jack the side up where it will tilt the drain plug down and then I'll just lower it and let it fully drain
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      03-21-2016, 07:43 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by Flex68 View Post
I'm with you on jack stands I hate using them so oil changes I just jack the side up where it will tilt the drain plug down and then I'll just lower it and let it fully drain
Wait... so you only have the jack holding the car up when you are under undoing the sump plug?
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      03-21-2016, 07:47 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by ash5584 View Post
Wait... so you only have the jack holding the car up when you are under undoing the sump plug?

I jack only one side up ( the side where the drain bolt tilts towards so it doesn't drain back onto cover and under tray )

Then once it starts to drain I lower the car back to let it finish draining
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      03-21-2016, 07:49 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex68 View Post
I jack only one side up ( the side where the drain bolt tilts towards so it doesn't drain back onto cover and under tray )

Then once it starts to drain I lower the car back to let it finish draining
Unsafe as you need to get underneath the car to access the plug. I'd suggest at putting something under the wheel incase something falls.
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      03-22-2016, 12:15 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Unsafe as you need to get underneath the car to access the plug. I'd suggest at putting something under the wheel incase something falls.


Oops sorry yes I put a spare wheel under my wheel incase I get crushed
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      03-25-2016, 06:29 AM   #94
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Just MHD Flashed the Stage 1 non fmic map.
Used a battery charger (ebay)... no problems.
Was a bit worrying seeing all the system error messages on the screen..
Amazing result!
So much pwr! Lol.
Now i just wanna get the alpina flash..
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      03-25-2016, 07:22 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ash5584 View Post
Just MHD Flashed the Stage 1 non fmic map.
Used a battery charger (ebay)... no problems.
Was a bit worrying seeing all the system error messages on the screen..
Amazing result!
So much pwr! Lol.
Now i just wanna get the alpina flash..
Nice one Ash glad you like the tune
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      04-04-2016, 09:42 AM   #96
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Just had the Alpina flash, coding and paddle fix (thanks vtl!) completed.
Car is transformed!
Contrary to much of the talk... I don't mind D mode at all for DDing. Smooth, economical...
S/M shifting is much crisper.

Btw... how did the suspension install go vtl?
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      04-04-2016, 05:18 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ash5584 View Post
Just had the Alpina flash, coding and paddle fix (thanks vtl!) completed.
Car is transformed!
Contrary to much of the talk... I don't mind D mode at all for DDing. Smooth, economical...
S/M shifting is much crisper.

Btw... how did the suspension install go vtl?
Glad you're happy with the flash!

Suspension install went well, heres the writeup for it:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=19695915
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      04-05-2016, 03:19 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Glad you're happy with the flash!

Suspension install went well, heres the writeup for it:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=19695915
ooooooo nice write up mate
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      04-07-2016, 04:52 AM   #99
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I'm thinking of doing a brake fluid flush/bleed... what does everyone use for this?
Anyone use the $30 one man bleeder ebay kits?
The bav auto style pressurised devices look to be much more expensive... ?worth it?
Links much appreciated!
Cheers!
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      04-07-2016, 05:21 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ash5584 View Post
I'm thinking of doing a brake fluid flush/bleed... what does everyone use for this?
Anyone use the $30 one man bleeder ebay kits?
The bav auto style pressurised devices look to be much more expensive... ?worth it?
Links much appreciated!
Cheers!
I use a Motive pressure bleeder. Didn't get it from here (got mine from FCP euro), just using it for description:
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...european-cars/

Bought it years ago, works brilliantly. It is the ONLY tool I would recommend for bleeding the clutch on a BMW manual e9x/e8x.

I am currently using ATE superblue:

http://www.autosphere.com.au/p/69811...ake-fluid.html

1L should be plenty to bleed an auto.
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      04-17-2016, 07:41 AM   #101
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Thanks vtl for the brake kit links. Will sort this out with my next FCP order.

Hey, so another quick question...
At cold start... does everyone's engine (n54) start at about 1100rpm... and then slowly over about 15-25 seconds drop to 600rpm?
Also... if one was to rev the engine (not excessively... up to 3500rpm or so) during this time... is it normal for the idle to bounce around significantly for a few seconds after this?
Once stable at 600rpm.. a rev will not cause the bouncing idle that occurs at start...
Normal? Issue?
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      04-17-2016, 07:50 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ash5584 View Post
Thanks vtl for the brake kit links. Will sort this out with my next FCP order.

Hey, so another quick question...
At cold start... does everyone's engine (n54) start at about 1100rpm... and then slowly over about 15-25 seconds drop to 600rpm?
Also... if one was to rev the engine (not excessively... up to 3500rpm or so) during this time... is it normal for the idle to bounce around significantly for a few seconds after this?
Once stable at 600rpm.. a rev will not cause the bouncing idle that occurs at start...
Normal? Issue?
Yeah mine does this, you can hear the loudness of the cold start fade away as the RPM drops.

Not sure technically what is happening to the car during the first 30 seconds of a cold start to make it that loud and have the higher idle RPM.
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      04-23-2016, 06:59 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EB89 View Post
Yeah mine does this, you can hear the loudness of the cold start fade away as the RPM drops.

Not sure technically what is happening to the car during the first 30 seconds of a cold start to make it that loud and have the higher idle RPM.
Thanks mate... reassuring.

Quick update... followed by some q's!

Got an RB PCV and Turbosmart Kompact Dual Port Kit from JD75 (great price and service btw JD )!

Install was delayed... the X5 had some continence issues (coolant leak)... think it is the expansion tank... on removal to inspect managed to break the ATF thermostat .... lol, seems to be a common weak point.
Clickable, good price... no stock... seems to be a recurring issue...
For a laugh I checked at Doncaster BMW... $269 for exp tank, $69 for level sensor...
FCP to the rescue... $104US for overhaul kit including tank, cap, sensor and clip!
Good opportunity to get the brake bleeder and the OFHG for the 335 too

Managed to get the Dual port kit installed today.
Easy install... just those vacuum hose clips were slightly difficult to slide over! Felt like I needed an extra hand!
Set to dual VTA.
Very subtle with normal driving in D mode... stealth
Not too loud... but definitely present on 'spirited driving'!

I wonder if this will get annoying...
Question for someone who has this installed... I followed the instructions... unscrewed the top until the 1st gasket is just visible, then tightened 1 full rotation prior to install... idle seems fine... how do I know if it is fully closed at idle? And... what happens if I tighten this further?

I chickened out on the PCV install ... youtube install video seems easy enough... the only worry is the fuel line.
Did you all remove the uppermost fuel line to do the install?
If so, how does one torque the nut on re-install?
Any tips for this one?
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      04-23-2016, 07:07 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ash5584 View Post
Question for someone who has this installed... I followed the instructions... unscrewed the top until the 1st gasket is just visible, then tightened 1 full rotation prior to install... idle seems fine... how do I know if it is fully closed at idle? And... what happens if I tighten this further?
Ideally, best way would be to use a dentist mirror, but a knife or even snap a pic with your phone should work. You want to look into the little trumpet and fully warmed up while idling, you want to slowly back off the BOV adjustment until you can see that the piston is starting to lift then adjust it tighter by half a turn or so. The goal is to have it closed, but right on the edge of being closed so it responds nice and early for part throttle stuff.

If the piston is currently closed already, just leave them at what you have now, which is the loosest setting.
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      04-23-2016, 08:06 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by bradsm87 View Post
You want to look into the little trumpet
thanks... lol... i dont think my phone will fit between the two trumpets to take a photo.. let alone get it in focus!... especially with the stock airbox in there. Guess I will leave as is.
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      04-23-2016, 08:23 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ash5584 View Post
thanks... lol... i dont think my phone will fit between the two trumpets to take a photo.. let alone get it in focus!... especially with the stock airbox in there. Guess I will leave as is.
They could be wide open at idle so best to check. Even a glimpse from an angle at one is enough. It's a reasonable assumption that if one is closed, the other one will be too if preload was set the same so you only need to see into one.

Pulling one of the plumb back hoses off and looking in that port will work too. The only catch with that way is that the plumb back port is usually a bit lower so the plumb back port can be a little open at idle, but the vent to atmosphere port is still closed and this is the perfect setting IMO.
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      04-23-2016, 09:19 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ash5584 View Post
I chickened out on the PCV install ... youtube install video seems easy enough... the only worry is the fuel line.
Did you all remove the uppermost fuel line to do the install?
If so, how does one torque the nut on re-install?
Any tips for this one?
No need to remove the fuel line, if that was removed you can't toque it unless you have a crows foot socket set.

You can manoeuvre the pcv cap into position, it requires a bit of trick to get it in. I've done a few and found the stock vap to be much easier to get back in than the upgraded metal one from RB. They try and scare you into buying it but I've removed like 5 of them and never damaged the stock cap. Make sure you insert the valve into the cap first, don't try and put the valve in the hole, it won't be easy
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      04-25-2016, 07:04 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
No need to remove the fuel line
Thanks mate.
All went is easily... a bit of angled pressure got the cap with valve under the fuel line and into the slot.
Had a bit of difficulty getting the cap to thread... the gasket seemed not to want to slip into the hole...
Test drive up to Kinglake this avo
Car works!

Btw.. just received the $7 airframe from fleabay.
Works a treat, easy install and stable hold.
Have it mounted in the centre AC duct, routed the DCAN cable under the driver side mat for MHD monitoring (not exactly sure what i'm looking at tho... lol... rail pressure?)

With regards to the BOV setup... is there a way to look at boost pressure or some other indirect measure of whether the BOV is closed at idle? Otherwise I will have to get a dentist mirror!
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      04-25-2016, 07:42 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ash5584 View Post
Thanks mate.
All went is easily... a bit of angled pressure got the cap with valve under the fuel line and into the slot.
Had a bit of difficulty getting the cap to thread... the gasket seemed not to want to slip into the hole...
Test drive up to Kinglake this avo
Car works!

Btw.. just received the $7 airframe from fleabay.
Works a treat, easy install and stable hold.
Have it mounted in the centre AC duct, routed the DCAN cable under the driver side mat for MHD monitoring (not exactly sure what i'm looking at tho... lol... rail pressure?)

With regards to the BOV setup... is there a way to look at boost pressure or some other indirect measure of whether the BOV is closed at idle? Otherwise I will have to get a dentist mirror!
Easiest way is to have someone press the accelerator for you while you look at the BOV

Start the car and while it is idling, take a look at the BOV. It should be closed.
Have someone rev the car a little (light revving not WOT) , you should see the BOV open. If not the spring pressure needs to be backed off
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      04-25-2016, 08:51 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Easiest way is to have someone press the accelerator for you while you look at the BOV

Start the car and while it is idling, take a look at the BOV. It should be closed.
Have someone rev the car a little (light revving not WOT) , you should see the BOV open. If not the spring pressure needs to be backed off
Fair enough. I'll have to enlist the wife to be on throttle duty lol... and aquire a dentist mirror.
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