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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - Headlight Washers



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      04-22-2010, 11:25 PM   #45
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Thanks for the retrofit guide but I too am in Calgary and think these would be useless! I've had it on other vehicles and I found myself having to fill up more and more in washer fluid. I rather take my time stop at a gas station and used one of those sponge/squeegee.

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      11-21-2010, 03:38 PM   #46
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Hi guys!
Does anyone know is it possible to buy the clip from this pic separately? I have a car with missed one. Just installed the new washers and without this clip the hose just falls down under the water pressure.
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      11-25-2010, 03:13 PM   #47
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Found it myself. If anyone is interested, the part number is 61 67 0 004 457
If you check this number, the ETK catalog shows it for e46, e53, e83, but not for e9x. But it is the same for our cars, just installed it today.
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      12-18-2010, 12:47 PM   #48
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Update on Popping Headlamp Washers

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Jamieson View Post

I have just located this site and wish to congratulate the author on a very clearly explained article with excellent images. We have just had an unusually (for our normally wet maritime climate) cold spell here in Scotland with overnight temperatures down to minus 12 degrees centigrade in the cities and minus 22 in the highlands. This has caused many E92s to pop their headlamp wash units and my local dealer has advised me that they are now on world-wide back order.

A number of dealers have tried to raise the replacements as warranty issues but so far BMW UK have insisted that the responsibility rests with the owners to ensure that their bumpers (fenders in the US?) are frost free. The only way to prevent the problem seems to be to use a really strong wash solution in the winter. It appears that the washing fluid freezes up in the nozzzles in the cold temperatures and all it takes is the hydraulic pressure from the pump to force the nozzle and its cover to fly off whenever the windscreen washwipe is activated with headlamps on. Mine is lying somewhere on the M8 between Edinburgh and Glasgow.

For me the best news is that the headlamp wash unit can be deactivated by removing a fuse. I now intend to do this every winter. Thank you and best wishes to the author! My advice to anyone considering this upgrade though would be not to bother. These gizmos are much more trouble than they are worth.

Cheers,
John.
This is an update to my earlier post from January, 2010, regarding the popping headlamp washer units in cold weather.

Following an initial refusal by BMW UK to meet the replacement cost under warranty, I placed an order for the components with my local dealership. A week later a manager from the dealership contacted me to advise me that BMW had finally agreed to fund the replacement. So good news all round.

The problem seems to be that even the undiluted windscreen wash fluid generally available in the UK is unable to cope with temperatures below about -5 degrees centigrade. However, some auto supplies stores (including Halfords in the UK) now stock a double strength fluid which I have found to be effective.

The first sign of trouble is the plastic covers protruding from the bumper by a few milimeters. This indicates that the fluid has frozen inside the nozzle. As a precaution, I would recommend letting the car warm up and using gentle heating (A hot water bottle with a fabric cover held over the plastic cover is ideal) to melt the ice inside the nozzles.

Then park the car and top up the reservoir with double strength windscreen fluid and operate the windscreen/headlamp wash. If the nozzle units pop, remove them. If they do not function they are probably still frozen. Continue to apply heat until they either work or pop and then continue to operate the wash function a number of times. The objective is to clear any dilute fluid from the pipes and nozzles. Finally, replace the popped nozzle units if necessary (use long-nosed pliers to pull out the telescopic plastic tube, taking care to replace the rubber tube) and then top up the reservoir with double strength fluid.

I have been advised by my dealership that BMW will expect dealers to charge owners for replacements in future if the fluid strength is found to be insufficiently high. My advice to all owners is to top up with double strength fluid as soon as temperatures below zero are forecast.
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      11-13-2011, 01:36 PM   #49
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Thanks for the writeup
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      02-23-2012, 08:45 AM   #50
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Headlight washer deactivation

Quote:
Originally Posted by dubber1 View Post
I believe it is the top one of the two 30Amp fuses on the right side. For my 335xi, I think that removing that fuse will also kill the windshield washers. Check the little fuse block diagram in the back of your glovebox.
Thank you dubber, the information you posted is correct, and furthermore the number on the sheet for that fuse is 48,,,30 amp fuse.
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      06-18-2012, 11:59 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SARBlade
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejazbmw View Post
eh thats to much work for something small like that....u took apart most of the front end just for stupid headlight washers IMO thats a waste of time.....but thats just my 2 cents....
I personally think that this is an awesome write-up even if people don't want to take it upon themselves to do this, or think that having washers for the car's headlamps is silly. Criticizing the author for his work as "a waste of time", instead of praising him his not needed. Good job to the author!
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      12-05-2012, 07:54 PM   #52
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i have an '08 328xi wagon 6MT...my passenger side telescopic nozzle is leaking - which causes me to lose all my fluid...i need to replace the telescopic nozzle (btw - i think it's the o-ring but i can't see it well...i can feel the fluid spraying out of the nozzle unit's body as i can reach the unit thru the engine compartment...i can touch it, but not sure i can do much else...can the unit be replaced thru the front wheel well or does it have to be changed via bumper removal?...not sure you can pop it out of the holder by doing this via the wheel well - which is why most remove the bumper...but thought i'd ask anyone if they knew if the wheel well access would work or not...thanks...
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      05-18-2014, 12:28 PM   #53
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Hi, Just one question

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Originally Posted by dubber1 View Post
The cost of the kit was about $285 CDN and the cost of the programming was about $230. The programming cost was more than I expected.
What it means programming?? some one have to touch the car computer?? in the dealer?
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      06-26-2014, 06:31 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alberto633 View Post
What it means programming?? some one have to touch the car computer?? in the dealer?
The car has to be programmed to let it know that it has headlight washers. With all of the programming mods that people are doing now, this can be programmed yourself. Read the Coding section to find out about this. If I remember correctly, you can also enable this using the the BMWhat app that you can get for Android or iPhone.
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      07-18-2014, 03:22 PM   #55
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Hi does anyone know if there's a difference in bumpers where you cut as some I have seen from stock have a small recessed lip around the cover like here
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=351f...5#.U8mBvWK9KSM

Compared to what it says here and just cut where shown on the bumper line like this

http://www.saschamatic.com/images/fo...s/DSC_7124.jpg
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      07-18-2014, 05:37 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leah1
Hi does anyone know if there's a difference in bumpers where you cut as some I have seen from stock have a small recessed lip around the cover like here
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=351f...5#.U8mBvWK9KSM

Compared to what it says here and just cut where shown on the bumper line like this

http://www.saschamatic.com/images/fo...s/DSC_7124.jpg
Must be different because of the bumpers themselves. I know on my pre lci e90, it looks like your 2nd link. The headlight washer cover sits on top of the bumper, not flush.
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      07-19-2014, 04:59 AM   #57
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Ah ok thanks for that! Wonder if the Jet and cover are the same pre lci and lci that way when fitting to my lci bumper just means it won't sit flush which I could live with if that's the difference
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      09-29-2014, 10:40 AM   #58
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Hi guys ,

i've got a different fuse box .
I have an E91 from 2008 pre-lci and my fuse drawing map put the 30A fuse in 48 position.
And i don't have any idea where to put the relay ......... ( i have main relay in right area , 2 relays in left area (front and rear widow) but no space in right for another one.

Looking different from this DIY one.

Any Ideas?

Thx a lot.......

Hmmmm ... I'm Giampaolo Form Italy.

Bye
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      12-08-2014, 08:10 AM   #59
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Dubber1, is it possible to replace a headlight washer nozzle without going through the trouble of removing the entire bumper?
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      04-10-2019, 11:32 AM   #60
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Does anyone have information on this specific to the E92/93?

I think this would all fit and work in my E93 except maybe the reservoir bottle, but I'm having a ton of trouble finding confident answers.
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      06-15-2019, 01:41 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flight1 View Post
i've got a different fuse box .
I have an E91 from 2008 pre-lci and my fuse drawing map put the 30A fuse in 48 position.
And i don't have any idea where to put the relay ......... ( i have main relay in right area , 2 relays in left area (front and rear widow) but no space in right for another one
Im actually having the same issue myself

I have a 2010 e90 LCI; Headlight washer fuse in slot 48; not seeing any space for the relay anywhere. Comparing to OP, we have 2 more relays in our glovebox included, but located to the left, before he added his washer relay. Do we need to add another somehow?

My glove box is similar to this



Also, the kits are now officially NLA from BMW, but the individual components are still purchasable (minus having to create your own wiring). Figuring out a parts list right now and will try to post it for future reference

Last edited by GnomeChild; 06-15-2019 at 01:53 PM..
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      06-15-2019, 06:10 PM   #62
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Just for people who want this but aren’t able to acquire the parts anymore due to the kit being NLA, it is still possible to piece together a kit but it’s nearly double the amount BMW charged for the original kit that included everything. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to piece together a part number for the washer pump cable, but I managed to track down numbers for the individual wiring terminals and plug.

You can reuse your old washer bottle as it already has the relief and hole for the Pump, it is just plugged (at least in theory/what members have said online)

Below are the numbers listed for the kit; as stated before, my BMW is a e90 LCI m-sport so some of your part numbers (like the caps) will be different depending on your bumper

51112147264 - Washer Cap (left)
51112147265 - Washer Cap (right)
61677179311 (x2) - Washer Nozzle

67128377430 - Washer Pump
61678374382 - Pump Strainer
61671379530 - Pump Hose
61678252741 - Support Tube
61678377456 - Connection Pipe

61677117844 - Washer Hose
07147151388 (x8) - Hose Supports
61670004457 - Hose Clips (not needed but provided just incase you lose/break yours)

61138364520 - Washer Pump Plug
61130009633 (x2) - Double Leaf Spring Contact (for Plug)
61130007439 - Double Leaf Spring Contact (for fusebox)
61138353763 - Cable Terminal
61121391696 - Ground Wire

61138367146 - Fuse 30A
61366919113 - Headlight Washer Relay
61146938604 - Fusebox Terminal Plug (unneeded but included for posterity)

Comes out to me for about $377 shipped, even without the washer bottle
Worth it? Absolutely no
But for people who want all the options (like me), it’s still possible to source the parts

Looking right now for a better solution to the wiring; hoping to track down the number for the harness so you don’t have to rig one yourself. Will edit if/when I find anything
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      06-19-2021, 05:10 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bora20 View Post
I have completed the full headlight washer retrofit on my E90, but I am stuck on the last item.

I need to gain access to the rear of the fuse panel behind the glove box as I don't have small hands. The last item of the retrofit is to install the +12v cable to fuse location #43.

Can anyone tell me how to get the complete glove box out of the car? I have completed the following and it seems stuck, very stuck, in the middle.

- removed the glove box door
- removed all 6 screws holding the glove box upper in place
- removed the hydraulic arm push-pin to the door
- removed all 4 screws and the 2 brackets on the stainless rod

I have pull on it, very hard, and can rip it out of the car but there has to be a better way. Anyone know how???
The cup holders, got to remove the cup holders
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      11-09-2021, 11:13 AM   #64
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My tale of woe regarding trying to replace my lost covers when the only part I could find doesn't fit my car!

I believe there were several bumper variations installed originally. Most common apparently was a bumper that sat further out and required the washer-cover with longer supports behind it - and that's the one they sell based on my VIN, but it doesn't fit. My covers & the nozzles were stolen in a parking lot and I've been trying to get the right parts ever since. I've decided to trim and modify the wrong part and see if I can MAKE IT FIT!

Even if I trimmed this part so it was short enough to retract, and remove some of the web from just behind the front of the cover, at the bottom, the 4 retaining slots are too far back to allow this version of the cover to retract into the bumper. The piston/squirter part sits too far forward, IOW.

I've ground off some of the plastic support-web, as above, but they will not retract. So I'm going to cut another slot on each side, closer to the front, using a drill, Dremel, chisels, box-cutter...important to mark the position the same as the other two sets of slots, same spacing apart, then mod the new slot to the right size: then when the piston retracts the cover back to the hole, it should fully seat the cover. This will require shortening the front-to-back length too.

It's taking HEROIC lengths to go to to install these parts: I wish I could find the proper ones! Matched my paint on the first try - with some silver from a can. HTH

UPDATE: Trimmed the new ones, put in slots after carefully marking them, then installed and they work. But need to find a replacement bumper, hopefully an M-3 conversion style

Last edited by TenOx; 12-20-2021 at 08:00 AM..
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      12-20-2021, 07:56 AM   #65
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Headlight-Washers are installed on my 2007 335i/e90/pre-LCI

I recently put in (12.2021) new nozzles, pump and covers after driving around with holes for too long. Decided the bumper has too much parking lot damage to fix, so I'm looking for an M3 style conversion bumper. It seems from this DIY that the nozzle-holders are built into the bumper support, not into the bumper - is that accurate?

Anyone know of a good choice for an M3-look conversion bumper cover (best if it has the headlight-washer holes already ready, but any good one and I can choose to cut them in - if the place is marked)
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      02-11-2023, 01:13 AM   #66
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For anyone still browsing this thread with the same question as above: the washer nozzles are actually mounted to the headlight support, neither the bumper support/reinforcement nor the bumper itself. Every single headlight support from the factory comes with a relief cutout where the nozzles snap into; you do not need to buy specific headlight supports for the headlight washer system as they do not exist, or rather they do exist and they are already installed on your car. It would stand to reason then that you can easily upgrade between bumpers, aftermarket or OEM, as long as you also buy/supply the bumper specific caps

Cheers
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