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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Transmission Maintenance



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      06-24-2014, 10:01 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreekboyD View Post
Are people usually just changing the fluid alone or also doing the pan and filter at the same time?

I think doing all makes the most sense.



Also, would this be the correct part # for the pan filter?:

Link

Yes. The pan is single use, contains integrated filter, and will still hold some ATF after the drain has been opened.

The Turner link is correct but many order from thectsc.com
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      06-24-2014, 10:23 AM   #24
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Thanks Socom. It doesn't look like they ship to Canada.

Last edited by GreekboyD; 06-24-2014 at 10:32 AM..
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      06-24-2014, 01:11 PM   #25
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Is is great posts like this that make this Subforum awesome.

Thank you for the initial post TDIWyse

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      06-24-2014, 02:12 PM   #26
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By new bolts, are you referring to the 21 pan screws?
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      06-24-2014, 02:24 PM   #27
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definitely no reason for new bolts. The pan bolts only get torqued to 10 nm (under 7.5 ft lbs.) so they arent stretched and they also arent stressed during use.
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      06-24-2014, 02:34 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
definitely no reason for new bolts. The pan bolts only get torqued to 10 nm (under 7.5 ft lbs.) so they arent stretched and they also arent stressed during use.
Thanks. Been hearing conflicting opinions on this.

I'm currently only at 33,000 miles (53,000 kms) so might just do the fluid change for now and the pan/filter on my next one.
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      06-24-2014, 03:03 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreekboyD View Post
By new bolts, are you referring to the 21 pan screws?
Yes. They came in the kit so I used them.
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      06-24-2014, 03:20 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreekboyD View Post
Thanks. Been hearing conflicting opinions on this.

I'm currently only at 33,000 miles (53,000 kms) so might just do the fluid change for now and the pan/filter on my next one.
I had read that earlier screws had the T27 on them. Now they are T40, i have read. I have also read that some folks are accidently breaking off the T27 when trying to remove to pull pan.

So, the new screws might be related to retrofitting for T40s. Perhaps this doesn't apply to our 2009 and later ZF. I converted 10 N-m to 88.5 in-lb ( 7.38 lb-ft) and that is on an M6 =.236" screw. Good screws shouldn't break from that low level of torque. Something is going on if 7.4 lb-ft is causing screws to shear off at the head.
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      06-24-2014, 03:55 PM   #31
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Some guys has issues with corrosion on those old T27s and had difficulties removing them. Also, some guys tried T25s as not everyone had the odd T27 in their toolbox. Right tools is the key.
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      06-24-2014, 05:22 PM   #32
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I changed the pan and fluid last month and it made a huge difference in the way the car drives now. For those that are approaching 80K plus miles on the D, change the fluid now.

TDI -- did you do the transmission adaptation reset after changing the fluid? Is it even required?
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      06-24-2014, 06:42 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by toy_soldier View Post
TDI -- did you do the transmission adaptation reset after changing the fluid? Is it even required?
I did. Not certain if it's required or not. Didn't seem like a bad idea to me so I used the manual method and followed it with the Bav Tech tool Transmission Adaptation Reset just for good measure. Then I drove nice and gently at various rpm's/speeds for ~30 miles before starting to use more and more skinny pedal.
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      06-25-2014, 02:07 PM   #34
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Got an email with the fluid analysis results. Doesn't seem too bad. More particles in most of the sizes they looked at, except the 4um which was lower.

Guess the transmission is holding up pretty well. Which is a good thing.
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      06-25-2014, 02:26 PM   #35
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That is good news TDI. I may continue the plan to change my transmission fluid at 60,000 miles.

PL
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      06-25-2014, 02:32 PM   #36
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Just got my tranny fluid and pan changed today @ 54k miles. SUCH a huge difference. Shifts are silky smooth again as the day i bought it.

The old fluid wasn't that dirty, looked pretty clean but smelly.
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      06-25-2014, 02:41 PM   #37
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A couple of local indy shops told my buddy they won't touch "automatic" BMW vehicles when it comes to changing the transmission fluid.

One of them said the only time he recommends changing it is if there is a problem. Also said that once flushed, the EGS module needs to be reprogrammed and all adaptions cleared otherwise the transmission will act up within a few weeks.

Pretty much said you don't touch the fluid unless there's a problem otherwise you're asking for trouble.

I just get the feeling they don't want any liability issues.
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      06-25-2014, 07:01 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreekboyD View Post
A couple of local indy shops told my buddy they won't touch "automatic" BMW vehicles when it comes to changing the transmission fluid.

One of them said the only time he recommends changing it is if there is a problem. Also said that once flushed, the EGS module needs to be reprogrammed and all adaptions cleared otherwise the transmission will act up within a few weeks.

Pretty much said you don't touch the fluid unless there's a problem otherwise you're asking for trouble.

I just get the feeling they don't want any liability issues.
Yeah, and that is probably because BMW says it's a "lifetime" fluid. Just like my indy has to buy urea from BMW at $8/liter and did not know that it really is no special that your average new Dodge will use. They are just afraid that something goes wrong with a customer's car and they have not used an "approved" product/procedure.
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      06-25-2014, 07:07 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreekboyD View Post
A couple of local indy shops told my buddy they won't touch "automatic" BMW vehicles when it comes to changing the transmission fluid.

One of them said the only time he recommends changing it is if there is a problem. Also said that once flushed, the EGS module needs to be reprogrammed and all adaptions cleared otherwise the transmission will act up within a few weeks.

Pretty much said you don't touch the fluid unless there's a problem otherwise you're asking for trouble.

I just get the feeling they don't want any liability issues.
Yeah, and that is probably because BMW says it's a "lifetime" fluid. Just like my indy has to buy urea from BMW at $8/liter and did not know that it really is no special that your average new Dodge will use. They are just afraid that something goes wrong with a customer's car and they have not used an "approved" product/procedure.
Its an ISO standard fluid. It either meets the standard or it doesnt. ISO is very stringent on standards and if Either OEM (kruse) or aftermarket fluids didnt meet the standard, they would get dropped.
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      06-25-2014, 07:16 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Its an ISO standard fluid. It either meets the standard or it doesnt. ISO is very stringent on standards and if Either OEM (kruse) or aftermarket fluids didnt meet the standard, they would get dropped.
And all commercial and off the shelf are ISO compliant or API certified.
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      06-25-2014, 07:30 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh
Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Its an ISO standard fluid. It either meets the standard or it doesnt. ISO is very stringent on standards and if Either OEM (kruse) or aftermarket fluids didnt meet the standard, they would get dropped.
And all commercial and off the shelf are ISO compliant or API certified.
So i would say its approved, period. Dot.
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      06-25-2014, 11:28 PM   #42
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I used new bolts, they are not cheap, and I did not even need them, BMW lied to me...
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      06-25-2014, 11:32 PM   #43
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By the way, I bought everything off amazon for super cheap and did it myself, cost little over 200 when done this way, pan, fluids, bolts, etc, I even bought a new sealing sleeve, this area is prone to leak, when you are changing it check it if its leaking, I HAVE AN EXTRA ONE IF NEEDED...mine was not leaking...
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      06-26-2014, 12:49 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselRacer View Post
By the way, I bought everything off amazon for super cheap and did it myself, cost little over 200 when done this way, pan, fluids, bolts, etc, I even bought a new sealing sleeve, this area is prone to leak, when you are changing it check it if its leaking, I HAVE AN EXTRA ONE IF NEEDED...mine was not leaking...
I'll take it if available. I'm planning on doing this in the next month as I've just hit 60K. If it turns out mine is not leaking, I'll happily pass it on to the next person!
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