[montr]

Originally Posted by John3:16

+1 on the impact gun. If you don't have access to an impact gun, you might try using 2 ratchets that oppose each other. The last bolt will be tricky. Just leave a bolt opposite of the last one that's already been loosened.

Is there enough room in front of pulley for an impact gun?

[John3:16]

Originally Posted by montr

Is there enough room in front of pulley for an impact gun?

With the radiator in place, most likely no. An air ratchet would probably be a much better choice and probably what DozerDan was thinking of.

[Whitbread]

They make 90° impacts, I have this one, it rocks. https://www.zoro.com/ingersoll-rand-...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

[335dsleeper]

Originally Posted by John3:16

With the radiator in place, most likely no. An air ratchet would probably be a much better choice and probably what DozerDan was thinking of.

Yea, don't see that air ratchet doing the job.

[BB_cuda]

Guys, you're making this too hard. Remove the access plug to the flywheel teeth. use a decently thick blade of a screw driver or preferably the blade end of a lug wrench to wedge against the teeth. That's how I removed the single crank bolt on a 440 Mopar in the junk yard. It's torque was way higher than these 10 mm bolts. See pics of access plug and under lying teeth.

I give credit to learning about this plug from our upstate NY friend. Still don't understand why he is banned yet helps us so much.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Yea, don't see that air ratchet doing the job.

No sir, it will not. I tried my air rachet....didnt stand a CHANCE of pulling those bolts out...

My big issues with taking it off and holding the thing in place at the same time was even if you have a set of torx sockets, which i did not....you more than likely dont have 2 sets. I made due with a 3/8 6pt and maybe a 10mm 6pt (cant remember for sure...but I def rounded things off a bit... (I should have gotten a set, but harbor freight didnt have them....)

But all this is pointless since Cuda just posted the image to access the flywheel. Had I known about that, I would have been golden. Sounds like we may need a go-to DIY for this.

Cuda, where is this port at exactly?

[335dlci]

According to repair instructions, it says to replace the bolts for the damper....

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

Cuda, where is this port at exactly?

I thought it was obvious as we know where the flywheel is. Bottom of transmission and close to trans/engine interface. Look for the black rectangular plug. Plug removal can be done by hand.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I thought it was obvious as we know where the flywheel is. Bottom of transmission and close to trans/engine interface. Look for the black rectangular plug. Plug removal can be done by hand.

just didn't know if it was on the side or right on the bottom. thanks

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

..... even if you have a set of torx sockets, which i did not....you more than likely dont have 2 sets.

In the long run, we all need a set of those external torx sockets. Two complete set would be silly. If I really needed to do the double ratchet thing, I would just buy the one extra E-torx.

[kydiesel35]

Talked to the guy that whistles at Deere's the other day ... He installs this part all day in his Cummins, great product he says.

Keep you updated when I hear more from Fluidampr.

[JOHNNYBRAVO1]

Come onnn fluidampr, I sooo want 1.

[Nadir Point]

My crank damper still seems to be holding up at 102k miles, but I would love to replace it with a Fluidamper if/when they ever become available for the M57.

[kydiesel35]

Should be getting an ETA from our friends in the engineering department at Fluidampr soon...

FYI My 2011 335d has the old school pulley...

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Yea, don't see that air ratchet doing the job.

A good air ratchet, with proper air volume will do some serious damage. They can be very powerful. A Harbor Freight one run off a pancake compressor, yea thats not gonna cut it.

Besides a quick jerk with a regular ratchet set up is more than enough to break free most bolts. This is not a 36mm nut at 180 ft lbs, it is 4 bolts at maybe 40 ft lbs??

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

A good air ratchet, with proper air volume will do some serious damage. They can be very powerful. A Harbor Freight one run off a pancake compressor, yea thats not gonna cut it.

Besides a quick jerk with a regular ratchet set up is more than enough to break free most bolts. This is not a 36mm nut at 180 ft lbs, it is 4 bolts at maybe 40 ft lbs??

That part of the conversation got settled when Cuda pointed out the flywheel access port. With that, you can stop the crank spinning and it doesnt matter what you use to loosen the bolts.

Btw...I did try 60 gal of air at 120psi on my air ratchet, no go...could be a low quality ratchet, just saying it didnt have enough to do the job. And a quick jerk didnt do it either,......because of the leverage that you lose by having to put on the extension to get to the bolt heads.

Suffice it to say, that whole track of the conversation was solved by Cuda with a picture of the port.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by UberArchetype

My crank damper still seems to be holding up at 102k miles, but I would love to replace it with a Fluidamper if/when they ever become available for the M57.

Yeah, thats the problem with this damn thing....it holds up fine....until it doesnt. And when that happens...theres not a lot that can be done if you dont have one on hand.

[John3:16]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Guys, you're making this too hard. Remove the access plug to the flywheel teeth. use a decently thick blade of a screw driver or preferably the blade end of a lug wrench to wedge against the teeth. That's how I removed the single crank bolt on a 440 Mopar in the junk yard. It's torque was way higher than these 10 mm bolts. See pics of access plug and under lying teeth.

I give credit to learning about this plug from our upstate NY friend. Still don't understand why he is banned yet helps us so much.

Hey guys, did some digging and found the TIS for this job. BB_Cuda is right on the money. Below you will find the TIS, recommended tool and Torque spec. It's also been mentioned that you should not reuse the old bolts.

[Nadir Point]

Why not re-use the bolts?

[DSB335d]

Originally Posted by UberArchetype

Why not re-use the bolts?

Bolts stretch when tightened. To get the same clamp load on a previously used bolt you would have to increase the amount of torque therefore weakening the bolt.

[Nadir Point]

Originally Posted by DSB335d

Bolts stretch when tightened. To get the same clamp load on a previously used bolt you would have to increase the amount of torque therefore weakening the bolt.

40Nm is a relatively low torque value, especially for a bolt of that size.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by UberArchetype

40Nm is a relatively low torque value, especially for a bolt of that size.

It's 40Nm +120 degrees. It is very common for stretch bolts to be specified as an initial torque and then some.