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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Looking for a walk-through for oil filter housing and oil cooler gaskets for E92 N55



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      08-20-2022, 10:17 PM   #1
MtBMW73
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Looking for a walk-through for oil filter housing and oil cooler gaskets for E92 N55

I have a leaking oil filter housing gasket on my 2013 E92 with an N55 engine. I've watched at least a dozen YouTube videos on this topic, but have been unable to find one for my specific engine. All the ones I've found have been for either the N54, or the N55 on an F30, but none for the N55 on an E92. A lot of them say "the procedure is the same for N54 as it is for N55," or "it's the same for the E90 as it is for F30," but from what I can tell, it's not. There are differences between these engines (routing of hoses, wiring harnesses, air intakes, etc.).

There is a good one from a guy named Fritz Ramos, but it's on an X5. There is also a very detailed one from FCP Euro, but it is a 525 and the guy is disassembling a LOT of the engine that I don't think is necessary.

So long story short, does anyone know of a decent walk-through to replace these gaskets on an E92 with the N55 engine? I've searched extensively and coming up empty. I could probably fumble through using an N54 guide but would prefer to follow along with one for my exact engine and model.

Any help appreciated.
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      08-21-2022, 07:12 PM   #2
edycol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtBMW73 View Post
I have a leaking oil filter housing gasket on my 2013 E92 with an N55 engine. I've watched at least a dozen YouTube videos on this topic, but have been unable to find one for my specific engine. All the ones I've found have been for either the N54, or the N55 on an F30, but none for the N55 on an E92. A lot of them say "the procedure is the same for N54 as it is for N55," or "it's the same for the E90 as it is for F30," but from what I can tell, it's not. There are differences between these engines (routing of hoses, wiring harnesses, air intakes, etc.).

There is a good one from a guy named Fritz Ramos, but it's on an X5. There is also a very detailed one from FCP Euro, but it is a 525 and the guy is disassembling a LOT of the engine that I don't think is necessary.

So long story short, does anyone know of a decent walk-through to replace these gaskets on an E92 with the N55 engine? I've searched extensively and coming up empty. I could probably fumble through using an N54 guide but would prefer to follow along with one for my exact engine and model.

Any help appreciated.
Whatever you do, prime oil pump!
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      08-21-2022, 08:05 PM   #3
MtBMW73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Whatever you do, prime oil pump!
So I did a lot of reading and research on this topic. Most YouTube videos on the OFHG change do not mention the oil priming (including the FCP Euro complete walk-through of this procedure where the tech dismantles nearly the entire engine).

I watched this video of the oil priming procedure for an N55, but on my engine, the injector electrical connections are not nearly as accessible as shown in video. I have an engine support brace preventing the removal of a cover that prevents access to the rearward injectors. (It kills me how many times the guy said "easy" and "really not that bad" in his video. My configuration is anything but easy.) I also do not have the switches on my battery that he shows as the second option for priming.

This video shows a special motorized pump that the tech says is the "proper" way to prime the oil system, by connecting to the oil pressure sensor port. I certainly don't have that equipment.

Then there is this forum thread with several posters saying priming is not necessary, as long as you give the engine enough time to build pressure and circulate oil (which happens very quickly).

In this video, the guy discusses oil priming at the 9:12 mark, saying he did not do it and has had no issues, although he did add oil directly to the housing before reinstalling the filter. So I decided to take that route, and filled up the filter housing before reinstalling the filter. After I got everything buttoned up, I started the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. Seemed fine, but I haven't driven it yet. Time will tell, I guess.

Btw, for this repair, I followed this post and there were enough comments on the 335i N55 MT that I was able to figure it out for my configuration.
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      08-21-2022, 11:40 PM   #4
edycol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtBMW73 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Whatever you do, prime oil pump!
So I did a lot of reading and research on this topic. Most YouTube videos on the OFHG change do not mention the oil priming (including the FCP Euro complete walk-through of this procedure where the tech dismantles nearly the entire engine).

I watched this video of the oil priming procedure for an N55, but on my engine, the injector electrical connections are not nearly as accessible as shown in video. I have an engine support brace preventing the removal of a cover that prevents access to the rearward injectors. (It kills me how many times the guy said "easy" and "really not that bad" in his video. My configuration is anything but easy.) I also do not have the switches on my battery that he shows as the second option for priming.

This video shows a special motorized pump that the tech says is the "proper" way to prime the oil system, by connecting to the oil pressure sensor port. I certainly don't have that equipment.

Then there is this forum thread with several posters saying priming is not necessary, as long as you give the engine enough time to build pressure and circulate oil (which happens very quickly).

In this video, the guy discusses oil priming at the 9:12 mark, saying he did not do it and has had no issues, although he did add oil directly to the housing before reinstalling the filter. So I decided to take that route, and filled up the filter housing before reinstalling the filter. After I got everything buttoned up, I started the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. Seemed fine, but I haven't driven it yet. Time will tell, I guess.

Btw, for this repair, I followed this post and there were enough comments on the 335i N55 MT that I was able to figure it out for my configuration.
Brace? It takes 2 minutes to remove. If braces are complex, don't venture into doing OFHG job.
This is VERY simple dilemma, you prime it or you don't, and tomorrow potentially go shopping for new rod bearings.

N55 until 2014 had more sensitive rod bearings. It seems over time several events can contribute to failure, though failure to prime pump can destroy them or not. It is lottery, and expensive one.
Reason for priming is precisely bcs. oil pump goes into efficiency mode during idling. It takes longer to build pressure while you also have air pocket. Starting puts pump into maximum effectiveness mode.
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      08-26-2022, 08:29 PM   #5
MtBMW73
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During the past week I did some more research on the oil priming topic. There do seem to be a LOT of horror stories (true or not) of seized engines following the OFHG replacement. At the same time, a lot of opinions of "totally unnecessary" and "I've done several of these with no issues" experiences.

Nonetheless, after reflecting on it for the week, I figured I'd better be safe than sorry. I've been traveling for work and my car hasn't been driven since I replaced the gasket last weekend. I only started it and it idled for about 30 seconds before I shut it off and left it parked for the week.

So when I got home this evening, I figured I'd do the oil prime procedure before driving anywhere, but didn't want to pull apart the engine covers etc. and disconnect the injectors. I learned that this can still be accomplished by disconnecting electrical power to the fuel pump. So first I tried pulling the fuses based on those next to the gas pump symbol on the fuse layout diagram. (Fuses 58 and 70.) The engine still fired up when I started it.

So then I poked around in the battery compartment and removed the smaller cable from the battery cable, which I found on this diagram labeled as "3. Line to engine electronics"



It is easily removed from its slot:



That prevented the engine from firing. I cranked for ten seconds, stopped for twenty, and repeated three times.

Plugged it back in and started the engine. Seemed to run fine. Hopefully I'm safe now.
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