[Tomahok]

Ever since I bought my 2006 BMW 325xi Wagon (Used) without comfort access, the keys have not locked nor unlocked the car remotely (From button). I thought that the batteries were just bad and recently bought a new key form the dealer, which the parts guy assured me it would work (Do not have comfort access, could not replace battery). Anyways, I got the new key and it starts and stop the car, but still does not lock or unlock remotely, acting just like my other two keys.
I have already checked all of the fuses associated with the locking mechanism (2, 19, 56, 57, and 53) and I can assure you that they all work (Used multimeter). I saw something about the wagon spoiler area sometimes leaking which damages the antenna, however my AM and FM radio still work great so this seems unlikely.

Any help would be appreciated. I am new to the forum so I hope I did everything correctly!

[Lockdown76]

Does the button on the dash lock and unlock the doors?

[ptpending]

wagons have well known problem with wires breaking in flexible rubber tubes between antenna amplifier in rear spoiler and car body

[jsunma]

Since none of the keys are working as remotes, I'd have to agree that the problem is the wiring leading to the diversity antenna which is below the spoiler on the rear gate.

The last thread on this site (that I'm aware of) about this can be found here

As you can see, that member tried to chase down a bad fuse - there wasn't one - and I think also checked the diversity antenna module itself (which isn't often the problem on these wagons). If you're reasonably handy and don't mind slicing into the rubber boot that routes the wiring, you can fix the wiring problem for pennies (well, for a couple of inexpensive splicing connectors, some electrical tape and cable ties to hold everything back together once you're done).

Here's what mine looks like once I got it all tied back together.


It's not beautiful, but actually better than what the dealer left me with when they did the first repair of this issue. They just wrapped the thing in electrical tape and called it a day. The tape quickly started to fall apart and come off. And yes, you can replace the whole gater/tube and it's inexpensive...but then you have to actually fully disconnect one end of the wiring harness at that location and that's likely a huge pain.

[ixBMWxi]

I also have a 2006 BMW 325XI wagon (non-comfort access) with a similar problem. I've had the car for a year it came with one dead key and one key that starts the car but dose not unlock or lock remotely. Went to the dealer had a new key made to my Vin number and the key didn't work. They ordered another key that key didn't work either. They offered to run diagnostics but I put the process on hold till I could find out more info. Could a fault in the system inhibit a new key from initializing? I am the fourth owner of the car, I've been assuming someone swapped the CAS and the key, until I saw this thread about the wagon trouble spots. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

[Tomahok]

Originally Posted by Lockdown76

Does the button on the dash lock and unlock the doors?

Yes it does, the only thing that does not work is the key fob.

[Tomahok]

Originally Posted by jsunma

Since none of the keys are working as remotes, I'd have to agree that the problem is the wiring leading to the diversity antenna which is below the spoiler on the rear gate.

The last thread on this site (that I'm aware of) about this can be found here

As you can see, that member tried to chase down a bad fuse - there wasn't one - and I think also checked the diversity antenna module itself (which isn't often the problem on these wagons). If you're reasonably handy and don't mind slicing into the rubber boot that routes the wiring, you can fix the wiring problem for pennies (well, for a couple of inexpensive splicing connectors, some electrical tape and cable ties to hold everything back together once you're done).


Here's what mine looks like once I got it all tied back together.


It's not beautiful, but actually better than what the dealer left me with when they did the first repair of this issue. They just wrapped the thing in electrical tape and called it a day. The tape quickly started to fall apart and come off. And yes, you can replace the whole gater/tube and it's inexpensive...but then you have to actually fully disconnect one end of the wiring harness at that location and that's likely a huge pain.

I checked my diversity antenna a few days ago, there was corrosion on the top part of the board. I cleared this off with isopropal alcohol. I tested the wires that went into the board and the top and bottom wires had the correct voltage. One of the middle two wires worked, I can not remember which right now. The other had no voltage. By chance, does anyone know which wires are for the radio? (So I can narrow down) Is one of the wires for comfort access? (Which I do not have and would have no voltage)

TLDR: Top and bottom wire work for sure. One of the middle wires works, one does not. Is one of the wires for comfort access?

[Tomahok]

Originally Posted by ixBMWxi

I also have a 2006 BMW 325XI wagon (non-comfort access) with a similar problem. I've had the car for a year it came with one dead key and one key that starts the car but dose not unlock or lock remotely. Went to the dealer had a new key made to my Vin number and the key didn't work. They ordered another key that key didn't work either. They offered to run diagnostics but I put the process on hold till I could find out more info. Could a fault in the system inhibit a new key from initializing? I am the fourth owner of the car, I've been assuming someone swapped the CAS and the key, until I saw this thread about the wagon trouble spots. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

I will tell you if I find a fix for my issue. Check the diversity antenna in the back if you have time, mine had some corrosion, but not sure if the board or the wiring is the problem. I would check the voltages of the 4 cables going into the board if you can.

If your diversity antenna is fine, I would seal it while you are in there so it is better protected from the elements.

[ixBMWxi]

Thank you, I will check the tube/wires and the antenna. I get bad radio reception, so maybe...The confusing part is when I got my factory matched key from the dealer it never clicked in the dock the display shows a key with a line through it? I have only one fob that clicks in the dock, when that breaks, my car sits

[jsunma]

There are two threads over on another board that are very helpful to diagnosing this issue. I'm not sure if this site will let me post URLs from another board, but just to give it a shot...

http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...lease-t352153/

Follow that (above) post onto the 2nd page for more info about wiring diagrams, voltages, etc. I found this very helpful.

A related thread (which references the above, earlier, thread) is:

http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...lease-t218217/

Good luck! If those links don't work, PM me and I'll try to sort them out for you.

Oh, btw, bear in mind that when the folks on that forum talk about the "driver's side", they mean what we in the US consider the passenger side. The wires I fixed in my car are on the RIGHT side of the hatch.

Also, ixBMWxi, I think you have a problem with your key regardless of what's going on with your wiring or diversity antenna. You might want to take that key back to the dealer to make sure it was programmed properly.

[ixBMWxi]

Thanks for the links! The dealer made two inoperable keys, the second was made after the first wasn't recognized by the car. I've never had working remote access on the car. I'm thinking diagnosis will quickly snowball at the dealer.

I have standard tools and a cable, Is there any way to find error codes for these systems?

[jsunma]

Originally Posted by ixBMWxi

Thanks for the links! The dealer made two inoperable keys, the second was made after the first wasn't recognized by the car. I've never had working remote access on the car. I'm thinking diagnosis will quickly snowball at the dealer.

I have standard tools and a cable, Is there any way to find error codes for these systems?

There seem to be several issues here. First, if the dealer made an inoperable key, then they should have checked to make sure that your car wasn't throwing codes related to the remote/diversity antenna BEFORE they just went and made another key. This seems particularly the case after they made a second non-working key. You should get the results of that testing...and at minimum I think you need to go to another dealer. New keys aren't cheap (the going rate seems to be several hundred dollars at least, and most report that only a dealer can program a new key), I can't believe that they'd just keep making keys without testing the rest of the system.

Second, I can't figure out what you mean by the key not latching in the dock. That's a mechanical thing as even non-programmed keys will stick in the dash slot (they just won't work to start the car). Someone correct me if I'm wrong...but this is mysterious. You're going to an actual BMW dealer for this work. These are new keys...factory parts?

Third, it really sounds to me that you have a problem with either the diversity antenna itself and/or the wiring to the antenna. Check those links I posted (one has links within it to wiring diagrams, which you may need). You need to check voltages to the board. Alternatively, you could buy a new diversity antenna module and toss that in (just make sure it's returnable if you don't actually need it) and see if it fixes your problem. That would isolate the problem to the board or the wiring (if the new board/module fixes the problem, then your wiring is good. If not, then it's the wiring.) The bad radio reception is a clue that your problem is somehow related to the diversity antenna module. It's either bad or getting no power or sending no output. So, the module or the wiring is at issue.

Finally, if you want to chase this yourself, you can try a code reader like Carly for BMW (see the coding sub-forum here or just google). Maybe the free version will show you some codes related to this. But if I recall, when I last had this problem with my remote not working (due to cut wires), all I got from Carly was a code indicating that the remote wasn't working (DOH! I knew that...). Not very helpful. I think that a more indepth reading of codes - if there are any - requires either much more sophisticated coding software OR the dealer.

It really sounds like you may need to suck it up and go to the dealer and pay them the $150 to diagnose the problem. If it's just wires, that will be a cheap fix. If they say it's the module, you can shop the price of the part...ECS has it for a reasonable price (and you might save some from having the dealer replace it). A good indy might could do this, but I've found that diagnosing electrical issues like this often goes beyond what indys want and can do.

And if I were you, I'd maybe try to find a better dealer than the one that keeps making "bad keys" without trying to diagnose the underlying problem.

[Fb2017]

I assume the key works to start the car but not lock or unlock the doors? If so the keys need to be reprogrammed to the car.

Its super easy to do actually.

Put key in
Start car
Turn off
Press key (to unlock the key from the dash)
Pull key out


Repeat this 3 times then press lock or unlock on it and voila.. key programmed.

I hope this helps

[ixBMWxi]

Thx jsunma, my working key locks into the dock, the inoperable (new dealer key) does not lock into the dock and also shows a key with a line through it on the display. I agree, the diagnosis should've been done immediately when the first key was not recognized. I have good leverage get them to waive the one hour diagnostic fee. It does make sense that I probably have multiple problems. I feel better that I have some guidance on these topics before going to the dealer. Also, I have no problem doing some current testing or swapping modules. I will post any updates I have.

Thanks Everyone!

[ixBMWxi]

Got it working! It was two separate problems. The dealer sorted out the key issue. The new key did not work remotely. I paid for the the diagnosis of a bad diversity antenna. Got one for $280, installed it myself. It was a fun time removing the sticky black sealant on the antenna housing, scotchbrite and goo gone worked well. Siliconed housing back together, key works remotely and I get great reception on AM and FM!! I tried to use DeOxit on the old antenna board, no luck, it was too corroded.

[jsunma]

Great! Glad you got it sorted out

[Tomahok]

Thanks for any suggestions you guys had, but for now I am going to live without remote support (I have more important issues to address like my radio). When i get time, I will check the wiring harness again.

[Kinge335i]

I have a similar issue but i fitted a used cas module with its key from a friend car and its working fine on my cas it does not respond and also today the manual key inserted in driver door its locking the dricer door only and no response for locking and unlocking from the car should flash twice nothing happened

[ctuna]

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=903551

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...&highlight=key

You can't just replace a module and code it for keys it's way more complicated.

And comfort access is a separate issue.

Please read the above links.