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High mileage N54 dyno numbers
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02-23-2017, 11:29 AM | #1 |
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High mileage N54 dyno numbers
Anybody know of some dyno numbers for a stock (or relatively stock) N54 engine in excess of 100k miles (or around there)?
I'm curious to see what HP and Torque the N54 makes after 100k I know maintenance and treatment of the engine are huge factors. Still curious. My own research is only showing N54s that are highly modified.
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02-23-2017, 12:01 PM | #2 |
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My stock 110k mile RWD 6MT N54 335i made 290whp/290wtq at the wheels.
Tuned, on the same dyno on the same day it made 370whp/410tq with a semi-conservative custom tune via Cobb/ProTuning Freaks. Car was FBO and on 93 octane.
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02-23-2017, 12:10 PM | #3 | |
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370hp and 410tq, solid!
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02-23-2017, 12:12 PM | #4 |
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Good to know that these cars put down damn near advertised bhp numbers to the ground even after 100k miles.
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02-23-2017, 12:15 PM | #5 | |
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No reason they shouldn't unless the turbos are shot. Mileage on the motor itself is rarely an issue. The N54 engine itself is ridiculously over-engineered. It's the ancillaries that fail (turbos, waste gates, fuelling system, etc).
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02-23-2017, 12:17 PM | #6 | |
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I recently saw a video about a Porche, 11 years old, and didnt lose any HP either. I suppose this is why there's so much fuss about German Engineering.
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02-23-2017, 12:23 PM | #7 | |
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02-23-2017, 12:36 PM | #9 | |
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Getting flamed for it haha
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02-23-2017, 01:03 PM | #10 |
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I don't think you're understanding what it means to make HP to the *wheels*.
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02-23-2017, 01:29 PM | #11 |
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It should be added that most long-term test fleet cars in the magazines are a bit quicker at the end of their 40k mileage testing too, likely due to less parasitic drag losses, etc, once the engine loosens up a bit.
I just bought my 2009 with 134k on it and the compression tests were all 150 PSI or better, which is pretty good for such a high mileage engine. I'm sure it'll still put out quite a bit once I get it dialed in. Can't say these things aren't well-built directly from the factory, as long as proper maintenance is done. Maintenance history on mine was a bit sketchy, seeing how much carbon build-up was on the valves before I walnut blasted them last week. Man did that help though! I also saw quite a bit of carbon build-up on the piston tops when I did the plugs and had some of the intake valves open during walnut blasting. Plan to add some Seafoam in the tank, and crank case, and maybe via diverter valve vacuum line on the intake, over the months to see if I can help mitigate that at all. Always worked well in other higher mileage vehicles I've had. Will get an oil catch can soon too. |
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02-23-2017, 02:32 PM | #12 | |
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But were you bone stock when you made 290whp? Or FBO mods and needed a tune? Then you just had it tuned, or you added all your FBO mods plus tune to hit 370whp? Just clarifying so that everyone is comparing apples-to-apples when you say "stock" car.
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02-23-2017, 02:57 PM | #13 | ||
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02-23-2017, 04:44 PM | #14 |
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Cool beans - it always amazes me how much these cars pick up from a tune!
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02-23-2017, 09:54 PM | #15 | |
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02-23-2017, 10:06 PM | #16 |
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110k miles 2007 AT e90 335i pure stage 2 turbos, meth, 91 pump, 25psi, 542whp on mustang dyno. Had a leaky injector at the time, all injectors replaced a week ago, had compression test done at the same time, numbers were perfect but maintenance always kept up and i rarely "get on it"...
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02-24-2017, 01:16 AM | #17 | |
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Love to see posts like this because it reinforces just how stout these engines are. I'm new to the N54 game, but I have yet to see anything about rod, piston, head, block, or lower end failure. Amazing what power these things can put down given how cheap they are used. I have 134k on my newly purchased 2009, and after walnut blasting, installing new plugs and coils, adding BMW DCI, and the MHD Stage 1 tune, I'm very impressed with how well this car performs. Some full throttle pulls with my son really highlighted how easy these cars are to mod and maintain. |
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02-24-2017, 04:21 PM | #18 |
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Wheel size and wheel weight are a factor too. Same car with 17", 18" or 19" will put different dyno numbers. 19" even at same weight with 17" will put lower numbers. That is why some people run hub dynos to get constant accurate numbers.
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02-25-2017, 11:01 AM | #19 | ||
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02-26-2018, 01:35 PM | #20 |
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Any other dynos? I'm sitting on 115k miles on my 335i and have yet to start tuning it.
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02-26-2018, 02:08 PM | #21 |
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Not a ton of similarity but kind of interesting.
In the dirt bike world, the high strung racing 4 strokes (i.e. CRF250R) tend to give no warning signs and run their best right before they blow up. Two strokes (CR250/YZ250/RM250, etc.) will generally lose power, become harder to start, and the jetting changes when they get tired and need a rebuild. At least from what I've seen it tends to be worn rod bearings that seize up due to lack of lubrication, detonation from not running enough octane and/or ring gaps tightening up when hot, pinching, then causing the piston to crack. Also 4 strokes are much harder to jet than two strokes. On the two strokes when you go too lean, its pretty easy to notice and fatten up the mixture. Never rebuilt a car motor so who knows how applicable. Question for engine builders: Is there a noticeable difference in combustion/cylinder temps among the different cylinders due to their location. Like on an I6 would cylinders 1 and 6 generally run cooler than 3 and 4? |
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02-26-2018, 02:59 PM | #22 |
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Agreed... doubt 100k would make any difference. Probably not even 200k. And when the motor does eventually go, it may be due to things that wouldn't even affect performance... or it might.
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