[GB-335xiCoupe]

[Yes, I did a search for answers]

Ok, long story short, I had to replace my FRM3 after having other issues. The net is a low-battery start fried my old FRM3. I bought a new FRM and plugged it in. My hi-beams and turn signals are functional again! YEAH. I have BMWhat app, and a bluetooth adapter for BMWhat. I am now able to communicate with the new FRM3.

BUT - There are a few things still wrong after plugging the new FRM in. Here's what is still wrong and I can't seem to fix them:

1) The Angel Eyes flicker.

2) The windows switches are reversed. If I push the button that used to lower the drivers window, it now lowers the PASSENGER window and vice-versa.

3) I have a Coupe - the windows used to lower 1/4" or whatever because they are frameless doors. It does not do that any more. I have already done the reset of the windows by holding the button down for 10-12 seconds.

4) The mirror switches are also reversed. If I flip the switch to the left to adjust the driver's side, it adjusts the passenger side mirror. Also up/down = left/right and left/right = up/down. Very confusing, right?

5) When in reverse, the auto-dipping lowers my DRIVERS side mirror, not the passenger side like it did before.

6) The red car on a lift warning light in the instrument panel is still there. This may be because of some other module - I have to look into that more.

Do I need to have the BMW dealer fix these issues, or can it be done with INPA on a Win7 laptop? I would hate to take it to the BMW dealer and let them keep it hostage for days...

[335NJ]

Any codes? Sounds battery or electrical system related, obviously.

[GB-335xiCoupe]

Originally Posted by 335NJ

Any codes? Sounds battery or electrical system related, obviously.

The codes aren't related to the mirrors and windows as far as I know. The FRM seems to think they are working correctly, they are just reversed. I'm guessing it's like a Euro setting because if the switch on the drivers door were instead on the passenger door, it would work correctly.

I think the Angel Eye flickering is just a setting I need to change.

[335NJ]

Originally Posted by GB-335xiCoupe

The codes aren't related to the mirrors and windows as far as I know. The FRM seems to think they are working correctly, they are just reversed. I'm guessing it's like a Euro setting because if the switch on the drivers door were instead on the passenger door, it would work correctly.

I think the Angel Eye flickering is just a setting I need to change.

Maybe try disconnecting the battery (NEG) for a minute? I've had this fix weird issues on other vehicles before.

[Bavarian Tech]

Did you get the new FRM module programmed/coded to your vehicle.

[jamestpc]

Could that unit have come from a euro car? It's a stretch and doesn't explain the up/down switch, but thought id' rule that out.

[GB-335xiCoupe]

I'm getting it coded this Saturday -that should solve it all... In the meantime it's tolerable. I was hoping I could do it all with Bmwhat, but it is limited in capability for this.

[justanotherdude]

I don't know but the explanation makes me think it was from a right hand drive car since everything is reversed.

Hope it gets sorted soon!

[1QuikWS6]

New FRM needs coded to your car. Can't do what is needed with BMWHat...

You will either need to use NCSEXpert/INPA or take to dealer for big $$

[jwzimm]

Probably came from an e90 since the window down on open function is unique to E92/93 with our frameless windows.

Like others have said, you need to get the new FRM coded to your car with all the proper VO codes. That should solve all your issues. Without the right VO programmed the FRM has no idea it is in your car.

[fabdul007@gmail.com]

Hi
I would like to ask you if you were able to resolve the issues listed in your post issue # 2,4, and 5. I purchased a 2011 328i coupe where I have the same issues as you do. it only impacts the window's and mirror's.
I just wonder if you are able to share the solution if you found one.
Note I purchased another switch and it made no difference.
Thanks

[yubarry]

You still need to code your VIN number into the FRM module.

See: https://bimmerscan.com/wp-content/up.../B012016-1.pdf

The FRM module is covered by 100K miles/10 years warranty. It could be damaged when the battery is low or disconnected. This is a very popular problem. My power window/mirror left and right control button were reversed.

If your car is not covered by warranty. You can still go to ebay. They have FRM repair service for around $150. You just need to mail your FRM to them. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...epair&_sacat=0

Good luck!

Originally Posted by GB-335xiCoupe

[Yes, I did a search for answers]

Ok, long story short, I had to replace my FRM3 after having other issues. The net is a low-battery start fried my old FRM3. I bought a new FRM and plugged it in. My hi-beams and turn signals are functional again! YEAH. I have BMWhat app, and a bluetooth adapter for BMWhat. I am now able to communicate with the new FRM3.

BUT - There are a few things still wrong after plugging the new FRM in. Here's what is still wrong and I can't seem to fix them:

1) The Angel Eyes flicker.

2) The windows switches are reversed. If I push the button that used to lower the drivers window, it now lowers the PASSENGER window and vice-versa.

3) I have a Coupe - the windows used to lower 1/4" or whatever because they are frameless doors. It does not do that any more. I have already done the reset of the windows by holding the button down for 10-12 seconds.

4) The mirror switches are also reversed. If I flip the switch to the left to adjust the driver's side, it adjusts the passenger side mirror. Also up/down = left/right and left/right = up/down. Very confusing, right?

5) When in reverse, the auto-dipping lowers my DRIVERS side mirror, not the passenger side like it did before.

6) The red car on a lift warning light in the instrument panel is still there. This may be because of some other module - I have to look into that more.

Do I need to have the BMW dealer fix these issues, or can it be done with INPA on a Win7 laptop? I would hate to take it to the BMW dealer and let them keep it hostage for days...

[Carlosjpt]

im having the problem right now.... any ideas? i did just code my frm back to "factory settings using the VO though.

[Carlosjpt]

no one have any ideias?

[KhaosKid]

This happened to me when i resurrected my frm module in my 2011 e90 (lci). As simply as possible (emphasis on SIMPLY), when i restored my frm so it would communicate with the car again, I used a settings file that i found online that was NOT for my car. Now, on to how i fixed it. I did these things in order of easiest to hardest in terms of difficulty. I dont remember what exactly fixed it, but ut was definitely one of these 3 things.

Note: if your battery voltage is too low at any point, your frm module will be bricked. Do all the coding with the car running. If you try to flash the frm with car running it will start shaking and eventually shut off by itself. Whatever you do, do not touch anything until the flash is done, or you can brick it. See step 3 for how to unbrick in super simple terms.

1. Write the VO from YOUR CAS module to YOUR frm module (mine was called NFRM in ncsexpert). I believe you need to do it using your factory coding profile, but you can try doing it with your custom coding profile too, it wont hurt anything.

Now, you my be able to just let the car go to sleep and when you come back everything is working correctly, if not...

2. Using your factory coding profile, do the same thing you always do when you code anything, to get your vin and vo to appear in ncsexpert. Now, READ your nfrm module by either selecting it and clicking ‘read’ if your profile has that feature, or otherwise just run the READ job ‘codieren liesen’ or whatever. The only reason you are doing this is to get ncsexpert to select the correct coding files using your VO. Basically, sometimes after your frm is brought back to life, for some reason that I haven’t figured out yet, ncsexpert will choose the wrong coding files. When you read from your nfrm it will somehow figure out that its using the wrong coding files, and will change the files used to code, to the correct ones based on the VO stored in your frm module. After this step, just run the ‘write’ or ‘code’ job that you always run to code your car. Again, i forget what its called because its in german ‘schrieben’??

Turn off car, let it go to sleep which takes about 16 minutes, then come back and see if problem is fixed.

If neither of those work then...

3. Use winkfp to flash your frm modules ‘firmware’ or whatever you want to call it. Basically you will use the zb number written on your frm module on the sticker, to flash your frm modules firmware (EEPROM, basically the firmware tells your frm module what car it is in, so it ‘knows’ which features should be enabled/disabled when you code it in ncsexpert. Look up guides on how to do this, and do it in comfort mode if possible, I believe it is safer, but worse thing that can happen is you brick the module, which would then require you to flash the firmware on the bench ie using a eeprom programmer like xprog.

After flashing the frm which i believe takes around 5-10 minutes, you may walk away and let the car sleep. If when you come back and it still doesnt work, repeat what you did in step 1 and step 2 using ncsexpert to write the correct coding parameters for your car based on the VO.

If none of these steps worked, I don’t know what to tell you. Maybe your VO was modified in the past so its not correct, maybe its something else.

If your lights are still blinking/flashing you have to reset short circuit counters in your frm module using tool32. (I think).


Note: this is all assuming that you did not upgrade or downgrade to another frm module that your car did not come with. Ie changing from frm1 to frm3 because you wanted welcome lights or whatever.

[Carlosjpt]

this all started because i wanted electric folding mirrors, so i sourced some from a RHD car, my car is left hand drive. now i have everything working except for the fact the the directions on the mirror controls are mixed up. the windows are all working as should be, with correct button corresponding to correct window. today i went into inpa and checked the switch. and in inpa everything checks out. left is left, right is right etc etc... but for some reason my mirrors dont do what the button says. so i press down it moves right, up moves left. so im wondering if its the frm or if its the mirrors themselves being from a RHD car. what doesnt make sense is that Rhd or Lhd left is left, right is right. so i dont see what how this could affect it.... thinking i might swap the mirrors over, and see if that fixes the issue

[Carlosjpt]

Khaoskid, thanks for the suggestions. i have done all of them except using winkfp

[pinder91]

Carlosjpt , were you able to figure this out? I've got the exact same issue with my LH mirror. I'm thinking it may have come from a RHD car.

[Carlosjpt]

Originally Posted by pinder91

Carlosjpt , were you able to figure this out? I've got the exact same issue with my LH mirror. I'm thinking it may have come from a RHD car.

not yet, but this week i will be swapping the mirrors over to see what happens.... in my mind it must be the mirrors. will update shortly

[pinder91]

Originally Posted by Carlosjpt

not yet, but this week i will be swapping the mirrors over to see what happens.... in my mind it must be the mirrors. will update shortly

I solved my issue by swapping in a LHD mirror. The way I've found to identify the difference (I think) is the 3 letter stamping on the inside of the mirror.

My LHD car came equipped with:

LH - "LLL"
RH - "LLR"

I purchased (unknowingly):

LH - "RLL" (this one was wonky)
RH - "LLR" (this one worked fine)

This leads me to strongly believe the first letter designates LHD or RHD, while the last is LH or RH. I have no idea what the middle letter could mean.

[TRier]

Interesting. I am looking at replacing my water damaged DME (cant communicate with it so cant clone it I think) with a matching DME, CAS unit and key. I see an ideal one on ebay other than its LHD and my car is RHD. I am as yet unexperienced with coding these BMW units but I'll learn it, anyone used a LHD DME with a RHD car and noted what needed to be modified?

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by TRier

Interesting. I am looking at replacing my water damaged DME (cant communicate with it so cant clone it I think) with a matching DME, CAS unit and key. I see an ideal one on ebay other than its LHD and my car is RHD. I am as yet unexperienced with coding these BMW units but I'll learn it, anyone used a LHD DME with a RHD car and noted what needed to be modified?

There is nothing inherently right or left handed about the DME or CAS. Don't worry about it.

But you will certainly have to code the replacement modules and you may have to flash them. The first issue of concern is that the VO in your replacement CAS is very unlikely to match your vehicle's options so you'll have to read the original VO from the NFRM (where a second copy is stored) using NCSExpert, write it to the replacement CAS using and then default code (code using parameters specified in the VO rather than an external file) both CAS and DME.

I wouldn't be surprised if the both modules needed to be flashed (program update) as well. You don't necessarily know when the replacement modules were last updated or if they were flashed with files appropriate for your option level and location. Flashing requires the use of WinKFP, which is not any more complicated than coding with NCSExpert. However, NCSExpert cannot permanently injure anything while WinKFP, if you are really uninformed or careless about its use, can destroy a module.

So yes, you'll have to do a bit of reading up on the use of BMW Standard Tools.

EDIT: The fact that you cannot connect to the original DME via OBDII probably does mean it cannot be cloned but that is not a given. If your DME is an EDC17, with a tricore processor, probably not. But you should contact a service advertising cloning expertise and ask.