[DavidPayne]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

It won't start shutting completely and at key points until you flash. That's normal. You should do the 3IM flash from bimmerlabs and then test the DISAs.

Btw, you won't see William92 here - been banned. Suggest you look and mag him on Bimmerfesr.

Thx Bluewater,
Yeah the video I saw, it didn't shut completely when pressing the gas, but the other video I saw it did using inpa. I don't know if it was flashed to 330. Just to be clear, even in inpa it wouldn't close completely, unless flashed?

And, of course, why is William banned?

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by DavidPayne

Thx Bluewater,
Yeah the video I saw, it didn't shut completely when pressing the gas, but the other video I saw it did using inpa. I don't know if it was flashed to 330. Just to be clear, even in inpa it wouldn't close completely, unless flashed?

And, of course, why is William banned?

Yes, I did a video a few years ago testing the DISAs with INPA before the flash. It does just like you said. Only when you flash can you use INPA to test them all the way closed/open.

I've speculated many times on William. It's a business thing.

[DavidPayne]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Yes, I did a video a few years ago testing the DISAs with INPA before the flash. It does just like you said. Only when you flash can you use INPA to test them all the way closed/open.

I've speculated many times on William. It's a business thing.

Thx a lot Bluewater,
It is confusing, because some people say you can test your disa's without flashing the ecu.
It left me thinking the disa wasn't working well, and all the long it is possible that it does work well.
The thing with bimmerlabs is I can't find the instructions on how to back up the original ecu, but it does say "There are 3 stock tunes available for your project 2011 BMW 328xi:" but no information is offered on what the 3 do. And if these are files to revert to stock 328, how do you know which one is the correct one?

I'm asking because the 3IM is very dirty inside and it is rough in some areas where it bolts to the engine. I guess tho, that it's the gaskets that actually do the sealing.
So it is possible that I may have to reinstall the 328 intake manifold, that also explains, in part, why I am so cheap about the disa's.

[bluewater328]

You need to look for the "3 free tunes" above that. Those are the ones you want. One will be an RSADelete, which you do first to unlock the DME. Next will be either the MAF or NoMAF version of the 330i 3-stage file (you pick one or the other -- description after you press the + sign.

If you dont have the free tunes and you only have stock tunes, there may not be an option for your spec. You may have to send a message in to inquire. Make sure that you put in the correct information for your car.

The stock tunes are just that and are if you need to revert back based on the appropriate ZB# when you look up your UIF (in INPA)

[DavidPayne]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

You need to look for the "3 free tunes" above that. Those are the ones you want. One will be an RSADelete, which you do first to unlock the DME. Next will be either the MAF or NoMAF version of the 330i 3-stage file (you pick one or the other -- description after you press the + sign.

If you dont have the free tunes and you only have stock tunes, there may not be an option for your spec. You may have to send a message in to inquire. Make sure that you put in the correct information for your car.

The stock tunes are just that and are if you need to revert back based on the appropriate ZB# when you look up your UIF (in INPA)

Yeah, I do see the free tunes, that part is all good.
I will try to find the ZB#, in case I need to revert, that was really my question which you did answer, so thx again for taking the time to help me out.

[hassmaschine]

The stock ZB# for your car is listed under the stock files already.

[DavidPayne]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

The stock ZB# for your car is listed under the stock files already.

Thanks Hassmachine,
The thing is that there are 3 stock files, but none of them match my ZB#.



I also have another question, where should the SP-datens folder be placed? I've seen how to import/install them but no one seems to mention where to place the files.
I think I remember reading, a few years ago, that you had to copy and paste them to 3 different folders. I've been searching for days! These are the folders found in the downloaded bimmergeeks SP-datens folder;



Do I simply copy and paste all the folders to the NCSEXPER folder? Overwriting similar files already in the NCSEXPER folder?
Thx,
David

[hassmaschine]

you probably have an old tune. The ones on bimmerlabs are from the latest daten files, and matched to your VIN.

you don't need to copy anything to use them, you can just download the program and calibration, and flash them like an RSA delete / tune it's self contained.

[DavidPayne]

The flash went well I think, and I have received the disa valves. But I did not order new bolts. Can I re-use the bolts? That was the plan, but I'm having second thoughts. I would like to add that I am changing the oil filter housing gasket at the same time, and also don't have the 3 bolts for this.
Are people re-using the bolts? Or are they too stretched? Do they risk breaking?

Thank you

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by DavidPayne

The flash went well I think, and I have received the disa valves. But I did not order new bolts. Can I re-use the bolts? That was the plan, but I'm having second thoughts. I would like to add that I am changing the oil filler gasket at the same time, and also don't have the 3 bolts for this.
Are people re-using the bolts? Or are they too stretched? Do they risk breaking?

Thank you

You can reuse the TB and Manifold bolts, but the OFH bolts must be replaced

[DavidPayne]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

You can reuse the TB and Manifold bolts, but the OFH bolts must be replaced

Thx,
That's what I thought.
I will add some info from the repair manual;
- oil filter housing torque = 22 Nm
- oil filter housing cover = 25 Nm
- oil plug 25Nm
- Throttle body to intake = 8 Nm
- Intake manifold = 15 Nm
- Crank shaft sensor = 8 Nm

Although the manual doesn't specify changing the intake bolts, it does say that crankshaft sensor bolt should replaced once undone.

I was thinking, the crankshaft sensor bolt is pretty big, plus it's only torqued at 8 Nm, does it really need to be changed?

[DavidPayne]

Hi,
I was unable to complete the job because the pvc heater is melted. I guess I will need a pvc heater and crank case vent hose(I was very happy that I had unattached it from the top without breaking it, but the heat from the pcv heater must have dried it out where it broke, it broke without any pressure at all, I just touched it and it crumbled).

How about the recall on that? Should I just reconnect everything as is and bring it to the dealer(about a 2 hour drive, then back)? Plus I have to undo everything again to switch the intake to the 3 stage one. For sure they would have to replace the intake manifold as it is melted, the pcv heater, the crank case hose and the connector.
Also, this is really strange, both these parts seems identical, one is 15$ and the other is 85$. Would the 15$ work fine? Ecs say it is an older model but it would work.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...SABEgJdKfD_BwE
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...iABEgIiRvD_BwE

[E92_William]

That is a bit confusing. When you read the recall pdf it shows as part number to be replaced with being the one ending in 830 that is $14 at ECS. However when I go on realoem to find the latest part number available it shows this one has which is the $80 one.. I was under the impression that the heater elbows with the short metal end were the pre recall ones and the ones with the long one and the cutout were the updated parts

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by DavidPayne

Hi,
I finally got everything working, started up right away.

Went to test drive it, but when I hit 140kmh the hood popped open and cracked the windshield, then it did a flip and smashed the the rear window. It also dented the trunk and right rear fender.
Then as I was limping home the motor seized, I think because of some junk left in the 3IM.
My car, which was mint this morning is now on a tow truck on the way to the scrap yard.


Here's a pic https://ibb.co/17n7Zbd

Dude I was about to cry before I clicked on that pic....

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

You can reuse the TB and Manifold bolts, but the OFH bolts must be replaced

Didn't you put a N54 throttle body on your car? I swear I saw your car on some kid's YouTube channel a while back as well, did a review or something.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Fritzer

Didn't you put a N54 throttle body on your car? I swear I saw your car on some kid's YouTube channel a while back as well, did a review or something.

Yeah that was my car in the video. My buddy Brandon and I made a few videos on the car for his YouTube channel “Shifted Perspective”

And yes, I have a N54 manifold and throttle body for maybe 3 years now.

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Yeah that was my car in the video. My buddy Brandon and I made a few videos on the car for his YouTube channel “Shifted Perspective”

And yes, I have a N54 manifold and throttle body for maybe 3 years now.

You get more power up top but lose some torque down low with that setup, right?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Fritzer

You get more power up top but lose some torque down low with that setup, right?

Yeah exactly. The benefits are smoother power delivery, more max HP, and no more finicky DISA valves. To optimize this set up you really need a diff swap to 3.73 or 3.91 (to make up the torque loss), a redline bump to say 7500 or 7700, and a manual transmission so you can run the motor to the new redline before it shifts.

With this set up I’m able to keep pace with modded E46M3’s and I highly recommend it.

[DavidPayne]

Originally Posted by Fritzer

Dude I was about to cry before I clicked on that pic....

lol, I do have a nissan sentra I got super cheap because of this except engine was not seized, still running very well.

[DavidPayne]

Originally Posted by E92_William

That is a bit confusing. When you read the recall pdf it shows as part number to be replaced with being the one ending in 830 that is $14 at ECS. However when I go on realoem to find the latest part number available it shows this one has which is the $80 one.. I was under the impression that the heater elbows with the short metal end were the pre recall ones and the ones with the long one and the cutout were the updated parts

I have a theory; about 2 years ago I had to change one of the rear lights, I found out that I could get 2 cheaper than the price of 1, because of a recall.


Maybe this is one of those things, where BMW put a lower priced one because many were faulty.

[DavidPayne]

I decided to go all OEM, since I found good prices, I think.

[DavidPayne]

Hi everyone and thanks for all your help, the car is working great with the 3 stage intake. It started up right away and I have no error codes!
Thx again!