[tom.gnade]

It seems like that would be a pretty simple parameter to map. That would make this a reasonably priced mod that would be easy to install.

[hassmaschine]

There's a lot of throttle maps. The "part load" map actually determines the throttle angle based on air mass flow and pedal position.


Fortunately at WOT it's much more simple - it's just a 2D curve of throttle opening and RPM. Since on the N52 it's assumed to always be 100%, the RPM scale only goes to 1500, but you can just change it:


You you would leave it at 100% everwhere except where the dead spots are, reducing the opening to something like 90%, maybe like this:


(DK = throttle opening, VL = Vollast [full load]).

I just made up the RPM set points/values for illustration of course - you would want to do the fine tuning either on a dyno or at the drag strip, but you get the idea.

[tom.gnade]

Ah, when are you releasing a tune? Lol. Love this guy.

[Biginboca]

So I got these codes today. When I googled they all seemed related to the throttle body:



I cleared the codes with Carly and they popped back up on restart. Then I cleared them again and they popped back up again on restart.

So I did some googling. Found there’s a way to reset throttle adaptations. One way uses a laptop and software, probably Hassmachine knows about that. I don’t, lol

The other way I found is ignition on (engine off) hold accelerator for 30 seconds. I reset the codes and then did this version of the reset. I have since had 10 restarts with no return of the codes. And I timed a few pulls after and the TB seems to be pulling pretty much identical to the oem through the 4000-5000 range. Still testing that.

Pelican Parts has mention of resetting the throttle adaptations in their tutorial for replacing the Throttle Body (under the comments section). I never thought to do this.

Also I recorded 2 of the the fastest 0-60 ever with my Pro Race ap after doing this. Two back to back runs that were .2 seconds faster than my previous best which I had never been able to repeat and felt was a one time fluke. So I will keep testing but right now I’m feeling more encouraged with the WCR TB.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

So I got these codes today. When I googled they all seemed related to the throttle body:



I cleared the codes with Carly and they popped back up on restart. Then I cleared them again and they popped back up again on restart.

So I did some googling. Found there’s a way to reset throttle adaptations. One way uses a laptop and software, probably Hassmachine knows about that. I don’t, lol

The other way I found is ignition on (engine off) hold accelerator for 30 seconds. I reset the codes and then did this version of the reset. I have since had 10 restarts with no return of the codes. And I timed a few pulls after and the TB seems to be pulling pretty much identical to the oem through the 4000-5000 range. Still testing that.

Pelican Parts has mention of resetting the throttle adaptations in their tutorial for replacing the Throttle Body (under the comments section). I never thought to do this.

Also I recorded 2 of the the fastest 0-60 ever with my Pro Race ap after doing this. Two back to back runs that were .2 seconds faster than my previous best which I had never been able to repeat and felt was a one time fluke. So I will keep testing but right now I’m feeling more encouraged with the WCR TB.

I was actually going to message you about this, but this way is easier.

You're better off just resetting all the adaptations (if you have a cable, I can show you the software - free) But the issue you were having was the DISA transition. Somehow, the increased airflow caused a disruption and a likely a abrupt dip in power, and that's why acceleration suffered. If it did slow down velocity (and I never thought it did/would) it would have happened at all the DISA transitions, which your logs don't support.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

So I got these codes today. When I googled they all seemed related to the throttle body:



I cleared the codes with Carly and they popped back up on restart. Then I cleared them again and they popped back up again on restart.

So I did some googling. Found there’s a way to reset throttle adaptations. One way uses a laptop and software, probably Hassmachine knows about that. I don’t, lol

The other way I found is ignition on (engine off) hold accelerator for 30 seconds. I reset the codes and then did this version of the reset. I have since had 10 restarts with no return of the codes. And I timed a few pulls after and the TB seems to be pulling pretty much identical to the oem through the 4000-5000 range. Still testing that.

Pelican Parts has mention of resetting the throttle adaptations in their tutorial for replacing the Throttle Body (under the comments section). I never thought to do this.

Also I recorded 2 of the the fastest 0-60 ever with my Pro Race ap after doing this. Two back to back runs that were .2 seconds faster than my previous best which I had never been able to repeat and felt was a one time fluke. So I will keep testing but right now I’m feeling more encouraged with the WCR TB.

Any update on this? Very curious on the results, especially since the weather is ideal.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

As promised, my before and after are in reverse order:

Car: 2007 BMW Z4 3.0si MT with headers and 3" exhaust

Before: Dinan TB, Afe drop-in filter, RPi air scoops
After: Stock TB, paper filter, no scoops

Each curve was the best of 3 run runs on different dates, 4th gear (closest 1:1) at the same facility. I've since sold the Dinan TB and will throw in a K&N filter after the paper filter gets dirty and call it a day.

Do you have it with hp and torque?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

Any update on this? Very curious on the results, especially since the weather is ideal.

No codes since the throttle reset, and I’ve been flogging it.

My gps timer is supposed to arrive today. Will have final results on how the performance has changed by the weekend.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

No codes since the throttle reset, and I’ve been flogging it.

My gps timer is supposed to arrive today. Will have final results on how the performance has changed by the weekend.

How are the numbers looking currently?
Are you going to do a swap and reset? 3/4 runs each? I think that would be most consistent in terms of data acquisition. Are you running any intake scoops? Have you tested them?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

How are the numbers looking currently?
Are you going to do a swap and reset? 3/4 runs each? I think that would be most consistent in terms of data acquisition. Are you running any intake scoops? Have you tested them?

Yes I will do some back to back testing. Yes I have Scoops and I did not test them. I’m expecting to have some TB test results tomorrow night.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Yes I will do some back to back testing. Yes I have Scoops and I did not test them. I’m expecting to have some TB test results tomorrow night.

Yeah, I'm not sure how they effective they are, and mine look like they are blocking airflow and not providing the intake charge that it had prior to them being installed.

[hassmaschine]

Personally my gut feeling is the scoops don't do anything.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Personally my gut feeling is the scoops don't do anything.

I think you’re right.
I trust your gut more than mine.

[atmosphericM]

IMO the scoops may help at highway speeds (not sure), but they definitely, probably (lol), result in way more crap getting forced into the intake box that would need to be cleaned out more often as a result (if you're anal like me). And if you have the stock airbox.. what a pain.

[atmosphericM]

Interesting stuff re. this throttle body. Big you really are going for every ounce of HP lol, as long as it stays stealthy.

[Zajac1]

Originally Posted by atmosphericM

IMO the scoops may help at highway speeds (not sure), but they definitely, probably (lol), result in way more crap getting forced into the intake box that would need to be cleaned out more often as a result (if you're anal like me). And if you have the stock airbox.. what a pain.

That's why I install extra mash for my scoops to avoid that crap from getting into the intake box

[Taskmaster]

This TB could be worth about 10whp on the top end, and even more cool is that seems to minimize the hard fall off at 6800 RPM, which as Hass pointed out, is likely flow limitations on the stock manifold.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Personally my gut feeling is the scoops don't do anything.

I’m also skeptical they add anything. Seems like the stock intake snorkels already sit in what would be a high pressure area built up in front of the radiator at speed.

I also don’t think they can hurt anything so since I already have them I’ll leave them alone for now.

[Xencer]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

I’m also skeptical they add anything. Seems like the stock intake snorkels already sit in what would be a high pressure area built up in front of the radiator at speed.

I also don’t think they can hurt anything so since I already have them I’ll leave them alone for now.

Same, especially for $100,

[PORTMOODY]

Originally Posted by Zajac1

That's why I install extra mash for my scoops to avoid that crap from getting into the intake box

where did you get that mesh?

[Zajac1]

Originally Posted by PORTMOODY

where did you get that mesh?

I got this from maintenance shop in company where I work

[justpete]

Originally Posted by PORTMOODY

where did you get that mesh?

You can get stainless mesh like that from Pegasus, I use it inside the grills and Aero bumper duct openings.