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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > My new car, P20EE - DEF injector cleaning pics



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      12-12-2016, 01:37 PM   #1
koden
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My new car, P20EE - DEF injector cleaning pics

A few months ago I bought a 2011 335D with 50K. I did a lot of research on the BMW diesel issues but decided to get one anyhow. I figure if I run into issues I'll just get a tune. This will be my 4th bmw (previously had a 94 325, 96 530 and 97 540 6spd). I wish they made the 335d with a stick. That would make it almost perfect.

The car has just over 53K now and my SES light came on. I took it down to the local parts store and they pulled the codes. P20EE was listed twice.

Over the weekend I put the car on jack stands (spare 2X6's came in handy, this car is low) and tackled the DEF injector cleaning.

When I got under the car I removed the small panel covering the area of the DEF injector. It was really nice not to have to take the whole underskirt off. 4 of the screws were Security Torx but I have a set and was able to remove them without having to break out the vise grips. In this pic I have already removed the DEF injector. Forgot to snap a pic of it before taking it out.



I disconnected the DEF injector and removed it. The electrical connector has a tab on one side you squeeze and it pops off with a little wiggling. THe DEF line has 2 tabs, one on each side that you squeeze and it slides off easily. No DEF fluid leaked out.



The injector had a lot of buildup on it but the exhaust was clear.





I wired up a 9v battery and had my son spray it down with warm water to flush it out while I held the injector and the the wires onto the connector to keep it open. It cleaned up nicely.



I put it all back together and have driven it for about 50 miles. The SES light has not gone out on its own. Assuming cleaning the injector solved the issue should the SES light go out on its own or do I have to reset it to clear the code? I have a Carly scanner coming tomorrow.

Anyhow, I love the car. It's Vermillion Red with tan interior. It not the M package but it has the sport and nav. Hopefully it will last a while.
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Last edited by koden; 12-12-2016 at 02:02 PM.
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      12-12-2016, 01:54 PM   #2
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None of your photos are showing up for some reason. If you used Imgur, make sure the links you put are direct to the image. Also, you'll have to clear the code for the light to go away and stay away, assuming that the cleaning fixed the issue. Look like it was a relatively easy fix for one of the weaker portions of this car.
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      12-12-2016, 02:02 PM   #3
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Ok fixed. Looks like if you want to post pics inline they also show as attachments at the end of the post. Sorry.
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      12-12-2016, 02:05 PM   #4
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Great writeup! Just guessing but you probably need to clear the codes. I have iCarly for Android, which I don't especially recommend except for occasional use as it's fiddly.
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      12-12-2016, 02:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet View Post
...I have iCarly for Android, which I don't especially recommend except for occasional use as it's fiddly.
Thanks for the heads up. Mine is for android also. If I find it buggy I'll return it and look at another solution. I liked it because it doesn't require wires.
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      12-12-2016, 02:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crnook View Post
Thanks for the heads up. Mine is for android also. If I find it buggy I'll return it and look at another solution. I liked it because it doesn't require wires.
I tried two BT adapters from Amazon before giving up and buying their (pricey) adapter.
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      12-12-2016, 03:15 PM   #7
koden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet View Post
I tried two BT adapters from Amazon before giving up and buying their (pricey) adapter.
I looked at the software to download from the play store. I did not realize you had to pay an extra $60 for the "pro" version of the software to actually do anything and then an extra fee to be able to reset the codes. The recent reviews of the software are not good either. I canceled the order. I'll have the parts shop reset the codes on the way home and look for a better wired solution.
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      12-12-2016, 03:32 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crnook View Post
I looked at the software to download from the play store. I did not realize you had to pay an extra $60 for the "pro" version of the software to actually do anything and then an extra fee to be able to reset the codes. The recent reviews of the software are not good either. I canceled the order. I'll have the parts shop reset the codes on the way home and look for a better wired solution.
ECS Tuning has a Foxwell unit that I've heard good things about. It's pretty expensive, but likely cheaper than Carly in the long run. I just don't know if it does the customization things that Carly does.
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      12-12-2016, 05:15 PM   #9
koden
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Yea, I'm about half way through reading the 9 page thread on it.
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      12-14-2016, 04:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crnook View Post
The SES light has not gone out on its own. Assuming cleaning the injector solved the issue should the SES light go out on its own or do I have to reset it to clear the code? I have a Carly scanner coming tomorrow.
You have to reset/clear the code using Carly.
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      12-14-2016, 04:22 PM   #11
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I stopped by the local napa and used their scanner to reset the codes. It's been about 300 miles and no more light so hopefully that was the only issue.

Thanks for the help.
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      01-20-2017, 09:16 PM   #12
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P20EE showed up again today. Car has not been driven much in the last couple weeks due to snow. I'm going to reset it but if it comes back it looks like I have to start throwing parts at it. It's only got 54K so maybe the dealer will cover it under the federal emissions warranty.
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      01-20-2017, 09:46 PM   #13
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Please check what engine coolant temperature you are running right now. If you are in the 60-70 degC then your thermostat has failed and that apparently causes SCR efficiency issues and pops the code.
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      01-21-2017, 02:09 AM   #14
koden
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Hmm. Tomorrow I will see if I can get into the hidden cluster menu and check the coolant temp. Thanks for the tip.
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      01-21-2017, 05:34 PM   #15
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After a 30 minute drive I pulled into the garage, shut car down and got into the menu. The temp was 85C with engine off and dropped to 80C after idling for a few minutes. I think the thermostat is ok.

Does the Exhaust fluid go bad? Maybe the car has sat undriven for a long time before I bought it from the dealer.
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      01-21-2017, 06:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crnook View Post
After a 30 minute drive I pulled into the garage, shut car down and got into the menu. The temp was 85C with engine off and dropped to 80C after idling for a few minutes. I think the thermostat is ok.

Does the Exhaust fluid go bad? Maybe the car has sat undriven for a long time before I bought it from the dealer.
You should try measuring temp while driving. 80C after idling sounds low.
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      01-21-2017, 06:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crnook View Post
After a 30 minute drive I pulled into the garage, shut car down and got into the menu. The temp was 85C with engine off and dropped to 80C after idling for a few minutes. I think the thermostat is ok.

Does the Exhaust fluid go bad? Maybe the car has sat undriven for a long time before I bought it from the dealer.
According to my parts guy at the dealership, DEF has a shelf life of a year.
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      01-21-2017, 08:01 PM   #18
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Welcome to the club) http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1313436 Emissions issues are endless...
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      01-22-2017, 01:01 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crnook View Post
After a 30 minute drive I pulled into the garage, shut car down and got into the menu. The temp was 85C with engine off and dropped to 80C after idling for a few minutes. I think the thermostat is ok.

Does the Exhaust fluid go bad? Maybe the car has sat undriven for a long time before I bought it from the dealer.
80C at idle is low especially if you had it at 85C just before the start. Like dmanb2b said, monitor it while driving.

Concerning the Urea. It has about a half year shelf life and that diminishes fast with higher temperatures. You should be ok in OR, but if you feel it may be old, I would flush the tank and refresh the fluid. Walmart has it cheap.
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      01-23-2017, 12:32 PM   #20
koden
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I monitored the temps driving in to work today. In 20 miles of driving mostly city and a short sting on the freeway the temp stayed between 78 and 82C.

I have always gotten 24-25mpg with the car in mixed city and freeway driving (I have put about 4000 miles on it since I have had it, it is at 54K now).
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      01-26-2017, 03:28 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crnook View Post
I monitored the temps driving in to work today. In 20 miles of driving mostly city and a short sting on the freeway the temp stayed between 78 and 82C.

I have always gotten 24-25mpg with the car in mixed city and freeway driving (I have put about 4000 miles on it since I have had it, it is at 54K now).
I think most will conclude that 78-82 is on the low end and may mean that the thermostat is on it's way out. I'm just not sure that a small drop like that is enough to cause SCR issues. I wonder how fast your engine gets up to temperature.
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      01-26-2017, 02:35 PM   #22
koden
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I have not timed it but it seems to warm up pretty quick. I think the thermostat is getting a little tired and I plan to replace it but I don't think that it would be the issue with the P20EE. I am going to drain and refill the tanks with fresh fluid. and see if that does anything.

I have an OBD2 cable coming in the next day or 2 so I can try and read the bmw specific codes on the laptop. Maybe that will shed more light.
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