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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > What else to replace while doing 3SIM?



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      07-29-2021, 01:33 PM   #1
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What else to replace while doing 3SIM?

Cross-posting this from 1addicts to garner more attention, hope everyone don't mind.

Going to tackle the 3SIM swap soon. Will be ordering a bunch of parts and bolts to do this. What else should I replace for preventative measure while the manifold is out? Want to order parts together.

It would be nice if part number, diagram from realoem (or anywhere), or pictures are shared. This way I have an idea what part it is and where it's from.

A bit about my car, 2011 128i that's on 13K mile. Despite the low mileage, it is 10 years old, want to do some preventative whenever possible.

Some additional questions while I have everyone's attention:
  • Will someone recommend torque wrenches, preferably from Home Depot?
  • Is loctite or any type of corrosion prevention(such as lubing the threads) necessary for any bolts and nuts?
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      07-29-2021, 10:20 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WgSo View Post
Cross-posting this from 1addicts to garner more attention, hope everyone don't mind.

Going to tackle the 3SIM swap soon. Will be ordering a bunch of parts and bolts to do this. What else should I replace for preventative measure while the manifold is out? Want to order parts together.

It would be nice if part number, diagram from realoem (or anywhere), or pictures are shared. This way I have an idea what part it is and where it's from.

A bit about my car, 2011 128i that's on 13K mile. Despite the low mileage, it is 10 years old, want to do some preventative whenever possible.

Some additional questions while I have everyone's attention:
  • Will someone recommend torque wrenches, preferably from Home Depot?
  • Is loctite or any type of corrosion prevention(such as lubing the threads) necessary for any bolts and nuts?
You'll want new gaskets for the intake manifold and throttle body at minimum. I don't believe I replaced any fasteners when I did mine. You will also want to order a new CCV hose as they commonly break upon removal (Link to ECS).

I don't believe I used any loctite or anti-seize anywhere on this job.

I replaced my starter which had failed... with only 13k miles you might be good there. You'll have to remove the manifold if the starter fails in the future though so if you're inclined its good preventative maintenance.

Are you planning on getting a used manifold? If so, and if you can spend it, new DISAs are a good bet.
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      07-30-2021, 06:19 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAVAGE_VT_E92 View Post
You'll want new gaskets for the intake manifold and throttle body at minimum. I don't believe I replaced any fasteners when I did mine. You will also want to order a new CCV hose as they commonly break upon removal (Link to ECS).

I don't believe I used any loctite or anti-seize anywhere on this job.

I replaced my starter which had failed... with only 13k miles you might be good there. You'll have to remove the manifold if the starter fails in the future though so if you're inclined its good preventative maintenance.

Are you planning on getting a used manifold? If so, and if you can spend it, new DISAs are a good bet.
Thanks for all the information, really appreciate it!

Yep, bought a used manifold with used DISA that's fairly low mileage from a reputable forum member, which also came with the CCV hose. I'll have that as a back up if I break mine. Also ordered new gasket and mounting bolts and nuts.

Actually debated really hard on getting new DISA, but the price difference was huge and mileage on them wasn't high. Decided to take my chance, hopefully they don't break on me anytime soon.

When does starter usually fail? I may do them anyway, since it does require the manifold to be out. Mind showing me which diagram in realoem is for the starter? Can't really find it with a quick look, though I do have to admit that I'm not sure where to look 😅.

Aside from the starter, anything else I should be doing that requires the manifold to be out, or just outright easier because it's out?
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      07-30-2021, 07:13 AM   #4
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13k! Wow. I think your starter will be fine at this mileage.
You can re-use your hardware and I wouldn't use any Loctite. You are threading into aluminum, so torque wrench is your friend to ensure you don't overtighten.

For starter diagram, look under Engine Electrical System group. Not much to it.
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      07-31-2021, 09:10 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by eljay View Post
13k! Wow. I think your starter will be fine at this mileage.
You can re-use your hardware and I wouldn't use any Loctite. You are threading into aluminum, so torque wrench is your friend to ensure you don't overtighten.

For starter diagram, look under Engine Electrical System group. Not much to it.
Thanks for the tips!
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      08-01-2021, 04:23 PM   #6
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Replace the T40 bolts that hold the junction box under the manifold with 10mm fuel rail bolts. Way easier to remove if you are ever down there again.

I'd test the disa valves with INPA or you could by plugging them into your car and starting the engine and revving to 3500 and 4300. They open when the engine shuts down and close when it starts up. Make sure the ending part numbers in both of them aren't 928 and 929 and they open and close fast and you should be good.

CCV hose can be reused but good to have a spare one in case it breaks.

I changed intake gaskets in mine and other cars just in case but I know of many people that have reused the old gaskets in used manifolds without issue lol, wouldn't recommend. Throttle body gasket is very wide and thick, I wouldn't worry much about it unless you want to do everything. I wouldn't touch the starter at all, mine lasted 120k and 13 years..

I use a $20 harbor freight 1/4in torque wrench and has served me well. If that thing can work right then anything above is golden
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      08-01-2021, 04:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_William View Post
Replace the T40 bolts that hold the junction box under the manifold with 10mm fuel rail bolts. Way easier to remove if you are ever down there again.

I'd test the disa valves with INPA or you could by plugging them into your car and starting the engine and revving to 3500 and 4300. They open when the engine shuts down and close when it starts up. Make sure the ending part numbers in both of them aren't 928 and 929 and they open and close fast and you should be good.

CCV hose can be reused but good to have a spare one in case it breaks.

I changed intake gaskets in mine and other cars just in case but I know of many people that have reused the old gaskets in used manifolds without issue lol, wouldn't recommend. Throttle body gasket is very wide and thick, I wouldn't worry much about it unless you want to do everything. I wouldn't touch the starter at all, mine lasted 120k and 13 years..

I use a $20 harbor freight 1/4in torque wrench and has served me well. If that thing can work right then anything above is golden
Thanks a lot for all the detail explanation!

Not familiar with fuel rail bolts, will you link me to one so I have an idea what I'm looking at?

Definitely replacing all my gaskets! Even all the mounting bolts and nuts on that are touching the engine. Not taking any chance, a few more dollars here is better than more money and time wasted down the line.

From what I can gather, aside from things pertaining to the 3SIM, there's really nothing else I need to touch?
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      08-02-2021, 07:34 AM   #8
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13537548123 is the part number for the bolts pretty sure. Apart from that stuff there's nothing else I can recall needing to be done or checked except maybe PCV heater elbow, you're going to swap it over to your new intake anyway, I'd make sure it has a square opening then you know it's the revised part.
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      08-04-2021, 05:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_William View Post
Replace the T40 bolts that hold the junction box under the manifold with 10mm fuel rail bolts. Way easier to remove if you are ever down there again.

I'd test the disa valves with INPA or you could by plugging them into your car and starting the engine and revving to 3500 and 4300. They open when the engine shuts down and close when it starts up. Make sure the ending part numbers in both of them aren't 928 and 929 and they open and close fast and you should be good.

CCV hose can be reused but good to have a spare one in case it breaks.

I changed intake gaskets in mine and other cars just in case but I know of many people that have reused the old gaskets in used manifolds without issue lol, wouldn't recommend. Throttle body gasket is very wide and thick, I wouldn't worry much about it unless you want to do everything. I wouldn't touch the starter at all, mine lasted 120k and 13 years..

I use a $20 harbor freight 1/4in torque wrench and has served me well. If that thing can work right then anything above is golden
Agree with all of the above. The short junction box screws were the biggest PITA of the whole job, especially if you drop one...

I replaced my starter at the same time, but in hindsight I don't think I would bother, especially at 13k mi. You can get to the starter without removing the intake manifold completely, and you'll find it to be very straightforward once you've done it once.

You might want to check your PCV heater elbow thing. There was a recall on those.
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      08-11-2021, 12:51 PM   #10
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You could also replace the sound deadening boot that goes from your intake box to the manifold. Any brand really, and it would be called the "N52 silicone intake boot". You could also switch the air intake box just because you are doing it already. No big gains, but extra induction noice and easier access to the air filter.
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      08-17-2021, 11:33 PM   #11
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I definitely say the crankshaft position sensor and rebuild DISA valves before installing the intake. It will surely save you a great headache!!
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      08-20-2021, 10:08 PM   #12
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Decided to do MILVS while I was at it since that requires the removal of the CCV hose. Unfortunate news with that.... When I was trying to pull the valve cover off, I dropped one of the two screws that sits below the valvetronic motor. Will someone tell me the part number for that? RealOEM's diagram doesn't show the valvetronic motor's side and there's more than 1 type of screw/bolt for the edges of the cover.....

Thanks a lot for all the advice everyone!
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      08-20-2021, 11:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WgSo View Post
Decided to do MILVS while I was at it since that requires the removal of the CCV hose. Unfortunate news with that.... When I was trying to pull the valve cover off, I dropped one of the two screws that sits below the valvetronic motor. Will someone tell me the part number for that? RealOEM's diagram doesn't show the valvetronic motor's side and there's more than 1 type of screw/bolt for the edges of the cover.....

Thanks a lot for all the advice everyone!
Which screws do you mean? The small ones that secure the motor to the head or the couple security torx ones at the bracket under the motor?
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      08-21-2021, 03:32 AM   #14
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Which screws do you mean? The small ones that secure the motor to the head or the couple security torx ones at the bracket under the motor?
The ones on the edge of the valve cover that mates the cover onto the engine block. There's two that are position below the valvetronic motor.
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