[jirka330i]

first od all- enjoy your holiday....you should be able to drive back with this

secondly, this issue can have more causes...and needs deeper diagnostics; your nox cat could be dead or going; maybe your nox sensor was damaged (by a grease a a spray) during installation, your nox could be a chinese fake if you purchased from unauthorized sources etc; broken ccv membrane is less likely within such a short time frame

[4foothill]

Originally Posted by Ceda

Hi guys,
2 weeeks ago I replaced NOx sensor. Mada an adaptation by bimmer template. All was perfectly working. Consumption by refueling after 600km was 8,3l/100km. Consumption on highway by 130 kmh GPS on cruise control was 7,1l/100 with avg.110km/h. Amazing!
But - yesterday I have started holiday jurney and after cca 200km I have noticed increased fuel consuption. The diagnostic showed 30E9 fault. Detail diagnostic of NOx senzor find out that the "Schubabschaltung" value is out of the box I have no idea how is possible that 200km is enought to clogged the NOx. May it be caused by oil consuption by probably bad PCV membrane? Or do you have ani idea how to refresh the NOx "Schubabschaltung "? Others values going well.
Thx for yours ideas.

Did you code in a new nox sensor? I can't remember the specifics but apparently when you replace the sensor you need to reset the cat readings. I replaced mine and continued to get errors until I finally performed this procedure about a year later:
https://bimmerprofs.com/encoding-new...tic-converter/

Edit: or maybe it was this one actually: https://bimmerprofs.com/encoding-new-nox-sensor/

[Ceda]

@jirka
yep of course there is an option that NOx cat is already dead.. PCV will be replaced by new one after i get back to home. I already have a new one.
I dont thing that sensor has been damaged during the instalation by spray e.g.

BTW thx, i will be back soon. Its only one week holiday Sure, car can run in homo mode ( ) but the conspumption 10l/100km is annoying. I did 9,6 avg. consumption by refuelnig last tank after 600km.

@4foothill
If you mean erase adaptation and make a new one - yes I did. Not by istaD as your template. I used bimmer teplate with inpa. But the result should be the same.

[jirka330i]

Originally Posted by Ceda

@jirka


@4foothill
If you mean erase adaptation and make a new one - yes I did. Not by istaD as your template. I used bimmer teplate with inpa. But the result should be the same.

inpa is great...but depending on the version it sometimes fails even in encoding the battery...try to repeat the nox encoding as well as deleting of the adaptations by ista

[jirka330i]

Originally Posted by Ceda

@jirka
yep of course there is an option that NOx cat is already dead.. PCV will be replaced by new one after i get back to home. I already have a new one.
I dont thing that sensor has been damaged during the instalation by spray e.g.

you would be surprised how sensitive is the material in the nox probe....usually, most of mechanics do the exchange of nox with dirty/greasy hands, and also use a lots of various chemicals to release the old nox sensor....which often is, due to its location, very difficult to get out

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Ceda

Hi guys,
2 weeeks ago I replaced NOx sensor. Mada an adaptation by bimmer template. All was perfectly working. Consumption by refueling after 600km was 8,3l/100km. Consumption on highway by 130 kmh GPS on cruise control was 7,1l/100 with avg.110km/h. Amazing!
But - yesterday I have started holiday jurney and after cca 200km I have noticed increased fuel consuption. The diagnostic showed 30E9 fault. Detail diagnostic of NOx senzor find out that the "Schubabschaltung" value is out of the box I have no idea how is possible that 200km is enought to clogged the NOx. May it be caused by oil consuption by probably bad PCV membrane? Or do you have ani idea how to refresh the NOx "Schubabschaltung "? Others values going well.
Thx for yours ideas.

When you clear adaptations the engine will run stratified regardless of faults. Within 200 miles any faults will reregister.


30e9 is the cat itself. You can try to force a regen etc.

[Ceda]

Jirka
delate adaptation is not someting what I want to do 1500km away from home. Last adaptation tooked me more than 3h - 15min each single way, 15m wainting etc..

I guess if the sensor was demaged by mechanic - it wouldnt work from the begining. And not after 800 km. Senzor themself work.. but only one measurement is out of the box.

will460cs
I have done 600-800 km (400-500 miles) It came when I was on the holiday journey.

I have tried for desulphurization several times... without any success. I dont know what im doing wrong.. using INPA.. I have tried start it with engine turn off.. with engine on the idle, even on ride.. nothihng. I rode under 110, 115,120,130+ nothing.. I dont speak german but translator told me someting like "the condition hasnt been met".. What kind of condition? Everytime I had more than 1/2 fuel tank.. Lambda was 0,98 min.. exhause temp. max 500 on 4th and 3500rev..

If anybody has an idea why im not able to start desulphurization - lay it on me

[jirka330i]

Originally Posted by Will_460cs

30e9 is the cat itself. You can try to force a regen etc.

That is correct...30e9 indicates clogged nox cat....but if I am not mistaken the level of clogging is based on dme calculation rather than measuring some parametres in the cat; it often happens when other parts of nox system are not able to complete the regen ...so the forced regen is definitely a good idea

[jirka330i]

Originally Posted by Ceda

Jirka
delate adaptation is not someting what I want to do 1500km away from home. Last adaptation tooked me more than 3h - 15min each single way, 15m wainting etc..

I guess if the sensor was demaged by mechanic - it wouldnt work from the begining. And not after 800 km. Senzor themself work.. but only one measurement is out of the box.

will460cs
I have done 600-800 km (400-500 miles) It came when I was on the holiday journey.

I have tried for desulphurization several times... without any success. I dont know what im doing wrong.. using INPA.. I have tried start it with engine turn off.. with engine on the idle, even on ride.. nothihng. I rode under 110, 115,120,130+ nothing.. I dont speak german but translator told me someting like "the condition hasnt been met".. What kind of condition? Everytime I had more than 1/2 fuel tank.. Lambda was 0,98 min.. exhause temp. max 500 on 4th and 3500rev..

If anybody has an idea why im not able to start desulphurization - lay it on me

what nox sensor did you install....original???

if one of the values evaluated in nox sensor is out of box....it could be damaged nox probe....the original (NGK) nox sensor has 2 probes in its head- one for lambda and one for nox

from what you mentioned- electronic part of the nox sensor seems to be all right; otherwise dme would throw various codes if the initialization procedure of the nox sensor would fail....

[Ceda]

jirka
I still have the old one. Im not sure but its possible thats old one has the same issue as the new one. All measurment was working but only the one was down.. but I cant say it with 100% sure coz i didnt focused on it in diagnostics.

The new one wasnt from BMW store, agree. If the nox was damaged during installation, i guess it would not show data from the beginning..?

Anyway the forced regen would be fine. I was thinking on the same thing - it was the first - and maybe last thing what i could tried in the middle of nowhere.
But I was unlucky.. I was unable to start the forced reg... Do you have any idea what im doing wrong in the process?

thx a lof for your time!

[4foothill]

Originally Posted by Will_460cs

Tools:

To install the injectors I'd recommend buying a 14mm Common rail diesel tool - about £8 for the "Mercedes" one on Amazon (they are generic) and this will allow you to torque the lines rather than half ass it... Remember to grease the lines with transmission oil as per the TIS.

14MM Common Rail socket tool:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the TIS: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-lines/4N5n5Ly

Any idea what the greasing with transmission oil aims to prevent? When I did my valve cover gasket I read this in the TIS but forgot to do it. Can't find many other places that reference it, or what it achieves. Just wondering if I should go back and do it, or just wait until my injectors inevitably need replacing and do it then.

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by 4foothill

Any idea what the greasing with transmission oil aims to prevent? When I did my valve cover gasket I read this in the TIS but forgot to do it. Can't find many other places that reference it, or what it achieves. Just wondering if I should go back and do it, or just wait until my injectors inevitably need replacing and do it then.

If you haven't done it don't go back, the lines have a notional usage of 15 x the oil is to lubricate the metal on metal contact to stop excess wearing when tightning.

[84Reasons]

Originally Posted by Will_460cs

So I have had my 325I E91 LCI for a couple of years and I like maintaining it myself, it quite a complex beast so here's the outcome of lessons I've learned along the way.
This is relevant to when its not running properly, it may have rough idle particularly when cold, has an excessively sooty exhaust or you suspect leaky injectors etc.

N.B. If your buying one the sooty exhaust is your first "tell" that theres a problem.

When I got misfire codes I tried the old school swap the coils around etc, if you car was running fine but then start with, but the symptoms start happening on cold starts. I hope this can help you can quickly diagnose the problem.

Firstly you need to equip yourself with INPA which is the BMW diagnostic tool, it also worth upgrading to the 2.023 loader:
https://bimmerprofs.com/msd80-loader-2-023/

With INPA always clear Short Term (F4/F1) and long term/history memory codes(F4/F3) IN THE DME menus. Don't forget to clear the History particularly with NOX errors!

These are the common problems:

- You have a sooty exhaust
- You have rough idle on cold start for a couple of minutes and then clears and works normally
- When the injectors leak more you will have misfire codes etc
- When they are leaking badly you have CEL lights on cold startup that clear on 2nd start after 2 minutes.
- You probably also have NOX errors, NOX issues won't normally cause rough running and certainly won't cause the cold start CEL light. However Nox sensors die quickly when the injectors start to leak and can in my experience be changed and then fail in a short order because the Injectors are leaking, so check you injectors first!
- High oil consumption, most likely PCV issues or a leaky rocker cover.


Checking for Injector issues:


Here's what you do:

- Let the car sit over night
- Pull the plugs, if you can smell fuel and the plug looks wet (not oil but petrol) then you have identified a leaky injector

Tools:

Spark Plug Tool:
You will also need a 12mm thin wall spark plug spanner 3/8" with an articulating head, This is because the plugs are at 5 degree angles to the bore of plug aperture. However Laser do a cheap tool on Amazon at £9;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Spark Plug Torque : 23NM +-3
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-plugs/5rctKot

So you have leaky injectors:

Change all 6 injectors to revision 11 (revision11 are not compatible with other revs, some say per bank however I personally believe it better to do it right first time and bargain hunt to get the price down), also make sure you replace the decoupling rings (the little metal ring with 3 prongs on the injector).

Where to buy stuff at discount whilst still getting a warranty:

- At the moment Merlin Diesel Systems are the cheapest business seller, they will do 150£ per injector on Make me an offer (eBay), if you are lucky you can also combine this with a eBay 10% off day so £135ea.

- You can buy the decoupling rings from Harry Fairborn or Cotswold deliver in set of 6 for £42, pn 13537564751 x 6

- You will want 6 spark plugs, at the moment AutoDoc seem to be the cheapest at circa 6.50ea
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ngk/636500

- Depending in the age/condition of you coils you may want to change , there was a BMW recall in 2012 so you may be able to get a free set. DELPHI are OEM for the new rev coils
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/delphi/7908929


Injectors:

Tools:

To install the injectors I'd recommend buying a 14mm Common rail diesel tool - about £8 for the "Mercedes" one on Amazon (they are generic) and this will allow you to torque the lines rather than half ass it... Remember to grease the lines with transmission oil as per the TIS.

14MM Common Rail socket tool:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the TIS: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-lines/4N5n5Ly

Torques:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-lines/5lzDB5f



Before installing the new injectors, make sure you use you old injectors as a "BORE CLEANING TOOL", in essence pull the injectors up and downing their position, in my case 1-5 were easy to do and 6 had a bunch of deposits stopping it slide easily out and in, also clean the injector to remove scudge.
The injectors should smoothly click into place with hand force, make sure they do this before you uncap your new injectors as the PTFE seal will swell up! Do not use the bracet as tool to lever on the injectors, most likely you still have a smudge build up you risk damaging the ptfe seal and inturn recking your cylinder head.

If you have a really stuck injector a slide hammer will be required i did mine with a conventional body shop one (Clarke 9 piece kit for £20 will do) on the right hand side of the body, or there is a special tool that Laser make for the job.

Slide hammer (proper tool)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Petro...53.m1438.l2649

I preferred to remove the spark plugs and put the coils back in or tape up (to stop contamination) before I try and take out the injectors, this removes the air lock!

Remember to write down the 2 x 3 digit codes on the left side of each injector, these are required for coding.

Additionally you need to code the injectors and clear the adaptations : https://bimmerprofs.com/not-encode-injectors/

Don't forgot to clear the adaptations and go through the process to setup again - its makes a big difference..

Finally if you are using 2nd hand parts or have pulled your injectors you need new PTFE seals which are about £1.60 ea from H.B. or Cotswold, in addition you also need the following special tools, here is the cheapest place:

https://www.xxl-automotive.de/Spezia...0::162451.html


NOX Problems:

So injectors are fixed/ok, now on to NOX problems:

Firstly check if you car runs stratified, if it does and does so reliably then all is good.

Checking to see if your car runs stratified: https://bimmerprofs.com/n43n53-operation-modes-check/

This is also the reason why you may have a sooty exhaust, because you maybe are stuck in Homogen mode which is essentially a LIMP mode with over-fuelling.

If you car doesn't run stratified its probably down to faulty NOX sensor or NOX cat (an ageing Cat is the common on >80k), Check for NOX errors in INPA.

If you see NOX CAT Ageing then you NOX Cat is at the end of useful life circa 80K.

Your OPTIONS:

So you have a car with Less than 80K miles:

1. New BMW Nox sensor about £400
2. Replacement NOX probe 8 wire from the NOX shop £160 https://www.nox-sensor.shop/shop/nox...uct-6697701859

More than 80k miles, I don't want to worry about my NOX cat Ageing issues now or in the future:
3. Bimmerproffs NOXEM emulated about £320, great if you car has 80K miles+ and/or you want to work regardless of the ageing of NOX CAT

I'd like my 325i to be more powerful and I'd rather not worry about NOX system like Bimmerproffs solution:

4. Remap of 325i or 330I with NOX coded out £250, Maptech and ProMap, if you have a 325I this will make a big performance gain i.e. 265BHP and 45NM increase http://www.map-tech.co.uk/your-car.htm?car=674


Personally I'd recommend option 4, I used Maptech..

PCV problems:

- High oil conceptions
- Whistling!

Finally, Check your PCV valve, in fact if your car has a 100K miles then just replace it, they don't last forever.

- the traditional test is to put your finger over the breather hold on the PCV (round cap at back of rocker cover) - if it whistles and is sucking then the diaphragm is knackered.

Some good instructions here:

https://vanos-bmw.com/product/111275...53-11127548196
Options:
1. New valve Cover - About £400
2. New Diaphragm from Ebay £30.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Membrane-...53.m1438.l2649

3. If you need it in a hurry then Metzger N52 CAP fits it you cut the fins off and the the internal spiral with a Dremel https://www.autodoc.co.uk/metzger/12821714. I used black high temp gasket silicone to seal. you can also probably cut out the diaphragm.


If this was useful to you please post me REP :-)

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to work out what issue I have. I have rough idle very briefly on some cold starts that disappears as soon as it came and a sooty exhaust.

However the only codes that come up for me are as follows -

2B05 - Nitrogen Oxide Sensor, Heating
30DC - Nitrogen Oxide Sensor, Heating

One that has only come up once ...
2A2B - Mixture control

I'm booked in to replace the nox sensor this saturday before a remap on monday (also have the 330i 3 stage manifold installed) however I'm now thinking based on your post it could be injectors rather than the sensor?

Anyone got any ideas?

Cheers,

H.

[Phil325i]

84Reasons I'd say that's classic failed injector symptoms. And if you're thinking about replacing NOx sesnsors, why not consider an emulator?

https://bimmerprofs.com/

[kieranrobo]

I was getting codes for the NOX sensor recently, along with one for my thermostat. Just replaced the thermostat and my NOX codes have disappeared. Car now seems to run in stratified mode when i get moving according to my Foxwell NT510. Strange.

Only issue I've got now is that I already bought the NOXEM 129, and its currently half way shipped to me.... Anyone know if there's any point in me still fitting it if I'm no longer getting any NOX codes? If no, whats the chances of them accepting a return? Bimmerprofs don't have anything on their websiite about returns.

[4foothill]

Originally Posted by kieranrobo

I was getting codes for the NOX sensor recently, along with one for my thermostat. Just replaced the thermostat and my NOX codes have disappeared. Car now seems to run in stratified mode when i get moving according to my Foxwell NT510. Strange.

Only issue I've got now is that I already bought the NOXEM 129, and its currently half way shipped to me.... Anyone know if there's any point in me still fitting it if I'm no longer getting any NOX codes? If no, whats the chances of them accepting a return? Bimmerprofs don't have anything on their websiite about returns.

Personally I'd just fit it, if your car is high mileage then it's only a matter of time, and even if your sensor isn't completely dead yet then it probably isn't very accurate.

[84Reasons]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

84Reasons I'd say that's classic failed injector symptoms. And if you're thinking about replacing NOx sesnsors, why not consider an emulator?

https://bimmerprofs.com/

I'd never heard of one until after I'd replaced the nox sensor.... which is a shame as they look good!
The codes are now gone after the nox sensor replacement so I'd assume it was that, had the remap now and no lumpy idle for even a second! I asked my mechanic about injectors and he seemed to think it would be very lumpy and a lot more noticeable ! Hopefully he's right

[Sotone92]

Bringing this thread back to life!

Dropped my car down the garage today with what looks like the nox cat aging as per my reader. symptoms, horrible idle, if I leave it let it play out it’ll stall.

If I run the car and keep revs high once the engine has warmed it’ll all go back to normal until the next morning.

Anyway, long story short my garage is against noxem (not sure he was even aware of it) and is keen on the map route. What’s everyone’s thoughts, I can only see positive from noxem and not much info about people who’ve mapped a 330i.

[jirka330i]

Originally Posted by Sotone92

Bringing this thread back to life!

Dropped my car down the garage today with what looks like the nox cat aging as per my reader. symptoms, horrible idle, if I leave it let it play out it’ll stall.

If I run the car and keep revs high once the engine has warmed it’ll all go back to normal until the next morning.

Anyway, long story short my garage is against noxem (not sure he was even aware of it) and is keen on the map route. What’s everyone’s thoughts, I can only see positive from noxem and not much info about people who’ve mapped a 330i.

Well, I can contribute a bit on this now

Original BMW NOX sensors are a bit more expensive and had bad reputation because of its first (01) generation; actual release is 05 (I assume that they improved in terms of the nox probe itself but also electronic parts responsible for controling regeneration...) and I am aware about 6-7 cars who use it for more than 3 years (high mileage) with no issues (but all ofthem are already aware of the fact many n53 owners never heard of- for a successfull nox regeneration you have to drive with already warmed up engine for at least 15mins at the speed above 120kmh and have at least half of your tank full)

Another option seems to be a me-too NOX sensor from Metzger at almost half of the price of original. I have no personal experience here but there is a number of guys at bimmer forums reporting it works fine. My guess is that electronic part can work well but have some doubts on longevity of nox probe- as the only reliable producer of them is NGK and they keep pricing high...would be interesting to find out which probe Metzger uses

Noxem is a good idea but not so good execution (probably typical for the producer coming from former USSR)...it reportedly has many issues(at least in my country but I am also in touch with guys from Slovakia, Poland and Hungary); 3 out of 5 cars I know which installed noxem in last 24months had a fail within 1st month of usage ( 2 cases were failing overvoltage protection, my case was a construction/quality issue on electronic mainboard causing error 2EAE...but it must be a risk factor for the whole production lot from the respective year if not more...as these mainboard are surely produced in hundreds somewhere in China...my guess based on what I have seen inside the "blackbox"); all 3 cases sorted out by claim but it required aditional work and time to get it right...plus car 2 weeks out of order. 4th car with noxem got into trouble after 2years and some 50K miles- the probe died although despite promising bimmerprofs fairytale marketing of longevity...and the claim was refused on the basis that probes are not covered- only electronics. Fortunately, there is a DIY solution to this- as many of you realized during the instalation- the probe of noxem is quite standard Bosch lambda probe (there is no real nox measurement going on here in contrast to orixinal nox sensor...the probe just generates a signal for blackbox which is then used to emulate a "report" for dme) which can be purchased elsewhere and replaced...

Mapping out the nox system is quite experimental and complex way...it has a simpler solution for those who do not mind loosing stratified- I am aware about at least 2 cars with this solution, both have also nox decat and pass emissions succesfully (note that nox emissions in homogenous mode are very low...it is the stratified devil which creates nox and forces high requirements on operational nox system...which unfortunately increases service costs for many n53 owners). I have been myself experimenting with nox map-out and stratified in place but it is very complex and requires a lot of time to get various scenarios tested; it would be much easier and faster if I had a technical documentation (with all algorithms and communication protocols between nox electronics and msd80)...and as this is not my priority I am not there.

[kieranrobo]

Originally Posted by Sotone92

Bringing this thread back to life!

Dropped my car down the garage today with what looks like the nox cat aging as per my reader. symptoms, horrible idle, if I leave it let it play out it’ll stall.

If I run the car and keep revs high once the engine has warmed it’ll all go back to normal until the next morning.

Anyway, long story short my garage is against noxem (not sure he was even aware of it) and is keen on the map route. What’s everyone’s thoughts, I can only see positive from noxem and not much info about people who’ve mapped a 330i.

I think it's quite common for mechanics to get a bit scared when they hear about a random 'emulator' shipped from Latvia which they've never heard of. They are used to fitting OEM or aftermarket OEM parts, so don't let it put you off.

I just fitted the NOXEM to my N53 and I've gotten stratified charge mode back, as well as probably a 25/30% improvement in MPG, so I do recommend it so far.

It's better you make your own decision on whether to fit one or not, rather than taking advice from the garage. If you do get the NOXEM I'd highly recommend you either fit it yourself, or pay a garage to a simple removal and installation. You should code the new sensor and NOX CAT using ISTA, as well as reset the engine adaptions yourself (which is really simple tbh).

[kieranrobo]

Originally Posted by jirka330i

Well, I can contribute a bit on this now

Original BMW NOX sensors are a bit more expensive and had bad reputation because of its first (01) generation; actual release is 05 (I assume that they improved in terms of the nox probe itself but also electronic parts responsible for controling regeneration...) and I am aware about 6-7 cars who use it for more than 3 years (high mileage) with no issues (but all ofthem are already aware of the fact many n53 owners never heard of- for a successfull nox regeneration you have to drive with already warmed up engine for at least 15mins at the speed above 120kmh and have at least half of your tank full)

Another option seems to be a me-too NOX sensor from Metzger at almost half of the price of original. I have no personal experience here but there is a number of guys at bimmer forums reporting it works fine. My guess is that electronic part can work well but have some doubts on longevity of nox probe- as the only reliable producer of them is NGK and they keep pricing high...would be interesting to find out which probe Metzger uses

Noxem is a good idea but not so good execution (probably typical for the producer coming from former USSR)...it reportedly has many issues(at least in my country but I am also in touch with guys from Slovakia, Poland and Hungary); 3 out of 5 cars I know which installed noxem in last 24months had a fail within 1st month of usage ( 2 cases were failing overvoltage protection, my case was a construction/quality issue on electronic mainboard causing error 2EAE...but it must be a risk factor for the whole production lot from the respective year if not more...as these mainboard are surely produced in hundreds somewhere in China...my guess based on what I have seen inside the "blackbox"); all 3 cases sorted out by claim but it required aditional work and time to get it right...plus car 2 weeks out of order. 4th car with noxem got into trouble after 2years and some 50K miles- the probe died although despite promising bimmerprofs fairytale marketing of longevity...and the claim was refused on the basis that probes are not covered- only electronics. Fortunately, there is a DIY solution to this- as many of you realized during the instalation- the probe of noxem is quite standard Bosch lambda probe (there is no real nox measurement going on here in contrast to orixinal nox sensor...the probe just generates a signal for blackbox which is then used to emulate a "report" for dme) which can be purchased elsewhere and replaced...

Mapping out the nox system is quite experimental and complex way...it has a simpler solution for those who do not mind loosing stratified- I am aware about at least 2 cars with this solution, both have also nox decat and pass emissions succesfully (note that nox emissions in homogenous mode are very low...it is the stratified devil which creates nox and forces high requirements on operational nox system...which unfortunately increases service costs for many n53 owners). I have been myself experimenting with nox map-out and stratified in place but it is very complex and requires a lot of time to get various scenarios tested; it would be much easier and faster if I had a technical documentation (with all algorithms and communication protocols between nox electronics and msd80)...and as this is not my priority I am not there.

That's a bit worrying. Mines is working well but I've only had it fitted for less than 100 miles so far.

It seems pretty well build to be honest, and yeah it is a Bosch sensor that it uses. Mostly everyone else who I've spoke to that fitted a NOXEM haven't had any issues at all.

[Dormermike]

New sensors are available for the oem nox sensor too, apparrntly. Ive read of people in germany having success via that route.