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      11-13-2019, 11:51 AM   #1
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Pure600 turbo kit, what else?

Finally decided to pull the trigger on a set of pure 600 turbos. Going to pair them with some VRSF 2” inlets/outlets. My question is what else should I consider while the turbos out?

The car has 120k miles, turbos are in good condition but I know I’m working with borrowed time with them... already did

Valve gasket
Water pump/thermostat
Belts
Radiator

Things to consider
Oil pan Gasket
Rear seal?
Oil filter gasket
Motor mounts?


Thanks!!!
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      11-13-2019, 12:42 PM   #2
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Drop the subframe for the turbo install and take care of the oil pan gasket & motor mounts, definitely. Since you're doing inlets you might as well do the oil filter gasket too, but that's an easy job that you could do later.

You should be looking at a fuel pump upgrade to support those turbos.

I don't know much about the lifecycle of the rear main seal for our cars, these seem to rarely be a problem but I have read about some issues in the past.
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      11-13-2019, 01:13 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinning_N54 View Post
Finally decided to pull the trigger on a set of pure 600 turbos. Going to pair them with some VRSF 2” inlets/outlets. My question is what else should I consider while the turbos out?

The car has 120k miles, turbos are in good condition but I know I’m working with borrowed time with them... already did

Valve gasket
Water pump/thermostat
Belts
Radiator

Thinks to consider
Oil pan Gasket
Rear seal?
Oil filter gasket
Motor mounts?


Thanks!!!
When I just replaced the turbos on my 335, i did ofhg, idlers, tensioners, belt, water pump, tstat, replaced the plastic water fitting in the front of the head with aluminum, trans cooler, bms high and low side occs, brakes, struts, and a bunch of other little things I cant remember.

I also have an XI and did the job with the subframe hanging. It can get a bit tight, but I've been turning wrenches for 25 years or so now, so no real issues. The hardest part of the job was getting the drain lines out of the block and getting the v-bands for the downpipes back on. v-bands are easier going from downpipe and slipping them onto the turbo side.

Last edited by nyt; 11-13-2019 at 01:19 PM..
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      11-13-2019, 01:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b92 View Post
Drop the subframe for the turbo install and take care of the oil pan gasket & motor mounts, definitely. Since you're doing inlets you might as well do the oil filter gasket too, but that's an easy job that you could do later.

You should be looking at a fuel pump upgrade to support those turbos.

I don't know much about the lifecycle of the rear main seal for our cars, these seem to rarely be a problem but I have read about some issues in the past.

Thanks, I thought the oil pan and motor mounts seems logical but I wanted a 2nd opinion. I値l throw in the ofh in for good measure. Thanks! I値l look into an upgraded fuel pump while I知 at it, depending on cost I値l do it with the turbos or later down the road.
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      11-13-2019, 02:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyt View Post
When I just replaced the turbos on my 335, i did ofhg, idlers, tensioners, belt, water pump, tstat, replaced the plastic water fitting in the front of the head with aluminum, trans cooler, bms high and low side occs, brakes, struts, and a bunch of other little things I cant remember.

I also have an XI and did the job with the subframe hanging. It can get a bit tight, but I've been turning wrenches for 25 years or so now, so no real issues. The hardest part of the job was getting the drain lines out of the block and getting the v-bands for the downpipes back on. v-bands are easier going from downpipe and slipping them onto the turbo side.
I have the XI model too, I値l be taking the car into a performance shop for the work since I don稚 have the tools or knowledge to tackle such a big job. I did do a few things on your list already. Do you think it痴 worth doing the water fitting replacement? Mine has been good but a metal fitting would inspire more confidence.
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      11-13-2019, 02:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinning_N54 View Post
I have the XI model too, I値l be taking the car into a performance shop for the work since I don稚 have the tools or knowledge to tackle such a big job. I did do a few things on your list already. Do you think it痴 worth doing the water fitting replacement? Mine has been good but a metal fitting would inspire more confidence.
You'll want it when you do the OFHG.
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      11-13-2019, 02:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinning_N54 View Post
I have the XI model too, I値l be taking the car into a performance shop for the work since I don稚 have the tools or knowledge to tackle such a big job. I did do a few things on your list already. Do you think it痴 worth doing the water fitting replacement? Mine has been good but a metal fitting would inspire more confidence.
They get brittle with age. Mine still felt good at 75k miles, but I don't trust it. It's a silly cheap part and the coolant system is already drained, so good time to replace.
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      11-13-2019, 03:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinning_N54 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nyt View Post
When I just replaced the turbos on my 335, i did ofhg, idlers, tensioners, belt, water pump, tstat, replaced the plastic water fitting in the front of the head with aluminum, trans cooler, bms high and low side occs, brakes, struts, and a bunch of other little things I cant remember.

I also have an XI and did the job with the subframe hanging. It can get a bit tight, but I've been turning wrenches for 25 years or so now, so no real issues. The hardest part of the job was getting the drain lines out of the block and getting the v-bands for the downpipes back on. v-bands are easier going from downpipe and slipping them onto the turbo side.
I have the XI model too, I’ll be taking the car into a performance shop for the work since I don’t have the tools or knowledge to tackle such a big job. I did do a few things on your list already. Do you think it’s worth doing the water fitting replacement? Mine has been good but a metal fitting would inspire more confidence.
I would definitely do it. Mine failed at 101k miles and when I took it out it literally turned to dust in my hand. Replaced it with a $15 one from amazon
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      11-13-2019, 05:55 PM   #9
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So far I have
$2991 Pure600 + install
$891 oil pan gasket + install
$258 oem motor mounts + no labor

Thoughts?? My car is an 335xi
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      11-14-2019, 06:25 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinning_N54 View Post
So far I have
$2991 Pure600 + install
$891 oil pan gasket + install
$258 oem motor mounts + no labor

Thoughts?? My car is an 335xi
Try and the get LPFP upgraded if you have the funds. And you will need a tuner if you don't have one.
They range from about $400 to $600 on average.
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      11-15-2019, 12:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoGuru View Post
Try and the get LPFP upgraded if you have the funds. And you will need a tuner if you don't have one.
They range from about $400 to $600 on average.

thanks for the recommendation... Well funds are tight, I barely have enough for to the turbos, oil pan, and motor mounts and considering a walnut blast if I can get away with a deal!

I will save the fuel pump along with the OFHG for 2020... seems like the upgrade can be a DIY.
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      11-15-2019, 07:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinning_N54 View Post
thanks for the recommendation... Well funds are tight, I barely have enough for to the turbos, oil pan, and motor mounts and considering a walnut blast if I can get away with a deal!

I will save the fuel pump along with the OFHG for 2020... seems like the upgrade can be a DIY.
It is a DIY. I bought a fuel pump mount that was printed in carbon composite for $60 and the Walbro 450 for about $100 and did the install in a couple hours.
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      11-15-2019, 07:44 AM   #13
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You will not be able to do much with the new turbos due to fuel limitations. What are power goals? Suggest a stage 2 bucketed or bucketless upgrade.

I prefer bucketed because i like to track or go wot with 1/4 tank or so, bucketless you could have fuel cutouts due to the mat limitations.
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      11-18-2019, 05:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deltalima0 View Post
You will not be able to do much with the new turbos due to fuel limitations. What are power goals? Suggest a stage 2 bucketed or bucketless upgrade.

I prefer bucketed because i like to track or go wot with 1/4 tank or so, bucketless you could have fuel cutouts due to the mat limitations.
Power goals are conservative for the time being, OEM+ pretty much
JB4 on Map1 (13psi)

looking to run 100% e85 later down the line. I just looked into the Fuel-it options and it looks like I would go with the bucketed Stage two for the same reason you stated about fuel cuts but also they offer it in Walbro Stage 2 LPFP Upgrade kit. And the price is reasonable.
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      11-18-2019, 05:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinning_N54 View Post
So far I have
$2991 Pure600 + install
$891 oil pan gasket + install
$258 oem motor mounts + no labor

Thoughts?? My car is an 335xi
So found out I will be charged for the VRSF inlet install longside the turbo install, I decided to do the oil pan gasket another time.

I am providing the VRSF inlets and outlets, hopefully I dont get charged for the outlet install too.

$2991 Pure600 + install
$450 VRSF inlet install (labor only)
$258 oem motor mounts + no labor
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      11-18-2019, 05:56 PM   #16
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$450 to install inlets while the turbos are already getting done? That's crazy. It adds like 10 minutes to the install.
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      11-18-2019, 08:40 PM   #17
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Replace all silicone/vacuum lines, consider doing boost solenoids while there.
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      11-18-2019, 10:27 PM   #18
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Replace all silicone/vacuum lines, consider doing boost solenoids while there.
I already did the boost solenoids a few months ago. Definitely going to replace all the vac lines while the turbos are being done.

Chris, I do have a question; when you guys install n54 turbos, do you also add the cost of the inlets/outlets as a separate labor charge?
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      11-18-2019, 10:47 PM   #19
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$450 to install inlets while the turbos are already getting done? That's crazy. It adds like 10 minutes to the install.
Yeah! I thought so too... Especially since I have DCI so there's no box to remove... I asked the guy to recheck on it and he replied

"My manager told me that the jobs only cross for a little bit, which is why we dicounted from $550 to $450"
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      11-18-2019, 11:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinning_N54 View Post
Yeah! I thought so too... Especially since I have DCI so there's no box to remove... I asked the guy to recheck on it and he replied

"My manager told me that the jobs only cross for a little bit, which is why we dicounted from $550 to $450"
Front inlet is already off and removed, rear inlet is trivial when the subframe is dropped and you can lower the engine to slip it behind.
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      11-19-2019, 10:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinning_N54 View Post
I already did the boost solenoids a few months ago. Definitely going to replace all the vac lines while the turbos are being done.

Chris, I do have a question; when you guys install n54 turbos, do you also add the cost of the inlets/outlets as a separate labor charge?
Typically shops will quote it all at once, certainly the job is much different while changing out turbos vs. just installing inlets/outlets with no turbo swap.

Chris
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      11-19-2019, 10:41 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinning_N54 View Post
Yeah! I thought so too... Especially since I have DCI so there's no box to remove... I asked the guy to recheck on it and he replied

"My manager told me that the jobs only cross for a little bit, which is why we dicounted from $550 to $450"
I would go back to them on this. $450 is a high price for a regular inlet install. They will already be taking them off and reintalling them on the turbos!

Should be no more than $100.
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