[Socket]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Socks when you installed the M3 front differential bushings, did you coat the bushings with any anti-friction agent?

No mate, no anti friction, would make it easy for them to dislodge or move when under stress

Do you have a device to pull the bushing into place?

Vince made one up. Here is a link he wrote up a while back

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1158856

Hope this helps mate

[Socket]

Actually Coupes, here is a better shot of the his home made device Vince uses on the diff bushings
Basically you run the threaded bar with a couple of nuts and plates on it through the bushing to the impact drill
Then wind the bushing into place (i.e. direction of blue arrow)
Need to make sure the bushing is oriented correctly and goes in square.
If its misaligned at all as it goes in, it will jamb up

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Socket

No mate, no anti friction, would make it easy for them to dislodge or move when under stress

Do you have a device to pull the bushing into place?

Vince made one up. Here is a link he wrote up a while back

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1158856

Hope this helps mate

Thanks Socks for the info. I made up a device to pull the old ones out. I will use some of this device to pull the new M3 bushes into place. I will let you know how it goes.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Thanks Socks for the info. I made up a device to pull the old ones out. I will use some of this device to pull the new M3 bushes into place. I will let you know how it goes.

Good luck mate

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Socket

Good luck mate

Removed the old bushings and installed the M3 bushings OK with a couple of tools I made up.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Removed the old bushings and installed the M3 bushings OK with a couple of tools I made up.

Great work Coupes

I particularly like the star cutout plate. That would have taken ages to fab up

Genius

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Socket

Great work Coupes

I particularly like the star cutout plate. That would have taken ages to fab up

Genius

It didn't take too long to make that star cutout plate. It was a 65mm x 65mm square washer from Bunnings. I just marked out the pattern, used a hacksaw to make a couple of cuts from the centre hole for each leg of the star, broke the part off between the cuts and completed the final bits with a couple of files. Probably, took about an hour. It worked quite well.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

It didn't take too long to make that star cutout plate. It was a 65mm x 65mm square washer from Bunnings. I just marked out the pattern, used a hacksaw to make a couple of cuts from the centre hole for each leg of the star, broke the part off between the cuts and completed the final bits with a couple of files. Probably, took about an hour. It worked quite well.

You make it sound simple Coupes

[ADEe92]

Great work - last time I did a similar job on the e30 (replacing subframe bushes) I just removed the whole subframe and took it to my local suspension joint.

Only cost $50 to have them press out the bushes and press in the new ones.

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by ADEe92

Great work - last time I did a similar job on the e30 (replacing subframe bushes) I just removed the whole subframe and took it to my local suspension joint.

Only cost $50 to have them press out the bushes and press in the new ones.

I'm lucky enough to have a good friend with a press, makes life much easier, but excellent work Coupes I've had take up a few Bush and bearing removal tools,, most of mine haven't been this well engineered..

[Socket]

Mod 107 - 1M driveline continued

Ok so this mod has been going on for a while now
Waiting on parts, waiting on the prop shaft to be lengthened and then sending it back a second time, waiting on bushings for the new hub.... grrrr

But all the bits were brought together today at Yoda Motor Sports for assembly.....

Once again, off with the under tray, exhaust, prop shaft, diff etc.... feels like we have been here before and probably not for the last time lol

The main issue today was the drivers side hub. Its a problem because the axle is ceased in the splines and refuses to budge, so the whole thing needs to be replaced.

Lucky we purchased all the bits to make a new one, so Vince spent most of the day putting it all together, with the use of his handy heavy duty press....

The next challenge was unbolting and removing the old hub and axle, which required all the driver side rear suspension and brakes to be disassembled.....

While we were there we took the opportunity to install some M3 rear control arms that had been in the parts box for a while

Finally got the new hub installed and brakes put back together and then ran into another problem The thread on one of the 1M axles was damaged, lucky Vince had the tool to re-thread it. 30 mins later the axles were in and torqued down before we called it quits for the day

Should get it all put back together tomorrow and get it out on the road for a test drive

Pics below

Pic 1 - Underside and drive line stripped out, again
Pic 2 - What's this.... golf tee mod ?? hahaha
Pics 3 & 4 - Putting together the new hub
Pic 5 - Done and ready to install
Pic 6 - Look at all this shit that needs to be disconnected
Pic 7 - Spot the new rear control arm
Pic 8 - Old drivers side hub and new axles
Pic 9 - Magic tool - pulls axles into place in under 60 seconds
Pic 10 - End of day 1

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Socket

Mod 107 - 1M driveline continued

Ok so this mod has been going on for a while now
Waiting on parts, waiting on the prop shaft to be lengthened and then sending it back a second time, waiting on bushings for the new hub.... grrrr

But all the bits were brought together today at Yoda Motor Sports for assembly.....

Once again, off with the under tray, exhaust, prop shaft, diff etc.... feels like we have been here before and probably not for the last time lol

The main issue today was the drivers side hub. Its a problem because the axle is ceased in the splines and refuses to budge, so the whole thing needs to be replaced.

Lucky we purchased all the bits to make a new one, so Vince spent most of the day putting it all together, with the use of his handy heavy duty press....

The next challenge was unbolting and removing the old hub and axle, which required all the driver side rear suspension and brakes to be disassembled.....

While we were there we took the opportunity to install some M3 rear control arms that had been in the parts box for a while

Finally got the new hub installed and brakes put back together and then ran into another problem The thread on one of the 1M axles was damaged, lucky Vince had the tool to re-thread it. 30 mins later the axles were in and torqued down before we called it quits for the day

Should get it all put back together tomorrow and get it out on the road for a test drive

Pics below

Pic 1 - Underside and drive line stripped out, again
Pic 2 - What's this.... golf tee mod ?? hahaha
Pics 3 & 4 - Putting together the new hub
Pic 5 - Done and ready to install
Pic 6 - Look at all this shit that needs to be disconnected
Pic 7 - Spot the new rear control arm
Pic 8 - Old drivers side hub and new axles
Pic 9 - Magic tool - pulls axles into place in under 60 seconds
Pic 10 - End of day 1

Your car looks a bit like mine at present Socks. It is always a fun job removing half shafts. Luckily, Vince has all of the equipment to make it easier. I assume the 1M diff and half shafts are the same as the M3 but not as old. Hopefully, the diff and driveshaft go in without any issues.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Your car looks a bit like mine at present Socks. It is always a fun job removing half shafts. Luckily, Vince has all of the equipment to make it easier. I assume the 1M diff and half shafts are the same as the M3 but not as old. Hopefully, the diff and driveshaft go in without any issues.

If you mean in pieces Coupes, then yes, looks just like urs lol
Not sure how the M3 and 1M compare but I imagine they are similar, certainly beefier then the manual 335 components.....

[Socket]

Mod 107 - 1M driveline continued


Day 2 and the 1M bits are all installed. Once again a big thanks to Vince for giving up his weekend to work on spcgry

TBH I cant really tell the difference, except the rear end feels grippier in the corners and taking off at the lights. But not sure if this is the 1M clutch LSD or the new throttle mapping Vince did today

Main thing is the drive line is in and there are no vibrations or low speed gripping or chatter from the diff

While we got the car up and running again, today was not without it's challenges. The heat shield needed some extensive trimming and for some reason the wheel speed sensor on the new hub is not registering Vince thinks the new wheel bearing might have been a dud.... Unfortunately this means no ABS and DCT until this is fixed.... and more work before this mod can be signed off as done

On the upside and as an added bonus, Vince coded in the modifications to the throttle response table he discovered the other day
Initially it didn't play nice, with Gary chucking codes and check engine lights, but after changing some settings, it worked great !!!

The improvement is amazing, the throttle response is immediate and makes taking off from a standing start much easier with the twitchy spec 2+ clutch... am loving the new improved feel and response

Ill say it again, Vince is a genius


Pics below

Pic 1 - Oil changed and ready to go in
Pic 2 - Diff installed
Pic 3 - Trimming the heat shield was a pita
Pic 4 - Prop shaft in
Pic 5 - Everything installed..... yay
Pic 6 - Pays to test everything while still on the hoist
Pic 7 - All back together and time to get it down off the hoist
Pic 8 - Coding in progress
Pic 9 - Dreaded codes due to malfunctioning wheel speed sensor

[Coupes33]

Good to see Spc Gry back together again and running better than before Socks. Does the faulty ABS wheel sensor affect the speedo reading? My understanding was that the wheel ABS sensors had something to do with determining the speed of the car. I am probably wrong with this.

[vtl]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Good to see Spc Gry back together again and running better than before Socks. Does the faulty ABS wheel sensor affect the speedo reading? My understanding was that the wheel ABS sensors had something to do with determining the speed of the car. I am probably wrong with this.

The speed sensor does not affect the speedo if you only have 1 faulty sensor, as the speed will be read from the 3 other wheels.

If one of the rear sensors are faulty, if you just spin the rear wheels (like running the car on the hoist) the speedo will read 0 though.

Real pain in the ass with the wheel bearing as it was definitely installed correctly with the magnetic strip facing the sensor, and pressed in correctly with no force applied on the ball bearings or the magnetic strip. Have tried multiple speed sensors so definitely wheel bearing related.

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by vtl

The speed sensor does not affect the speedo if you only have 1 faulty sensor, as the speed will be read from the 3 other wheels.

If one of the rear sensors are faulty, if you just spin the rear wheels (like running the car on the hoist) the speedo will read 0 though.

Real pain in the ass with the wheel bearing as it was definitely installed correctly with the magnetic strip facing the sensor, and pressed in correctly with no force applied on the ball bearings or the magnetic strip. Have tried multiple speed sensors so definitely wheel bearing related.

Certainly a PITA having to remove the half shaft and bearing again sometime in the future. Thanks Vince for the speed sensor explanation.

[Socket]

Was starting to think Coupes is the only person still reading this thread

[A'PEXi]

still reading also, nice updates

[Socket]

Originally Posted by A'PEXi

still reading also, nice updates

Thanks Apex, nice to know you are still following

[Socket]

Headlight mod continued

Regular readers would know this project has been going on for a while now

Back on post 4334, the drivers side headlight lens developed a crack and was letting moisture inside So off came the 3/4 and back in went the round eyes

TBH i was never really happy with the final finish on the 3/4s. The wiring needed redoing, the passenger side AE was poorly trimmed and the cheap ebay lenses were just terrible quality. So when the lens developed a crack, I decided to bite the bullet and do the job properly once and for all. So I ordered new OEM headlight lenses from Germany, got a new passenger AE ring and replacement harnesses from Bavgruppe and purchased a $5 depinning tool from Amazon

Today the lenses finally arrived, so I decided get stuck in

First job was to bake, open and strip the headlights back to the casing

Second job was to replace the damaged wiring. The heat from the headlight bulb causes the wiring to crack and fray over time, The wiring closest to the top access hatch, seems to be the worst affected. The first headlight was pretty simple, because I salvaged a wiring harness from another donor headlight I had, so it was all plug and play. The second headlight was a bit tricker, cause I had to depin each wire and replace them one by one. Took ages but it should be good for a few more years and I wont have to worry about shorting out an expensive main bulb or anything

Next job was to fix the passenger side AE ring. The Bavgruppe 3/4 rings are very thick and actually wont fit inside the E9x headlight without trimming. When I first did this, I trimmed it way too much and it looks pretty bad (see pic below) so was happy to redo this and get it right.
The hardest part was chipping away the glue to remove the LED ring from the AE lens. Then it was a simple matter of trimming the new one the the correct length and gluing the LED ring into the new lens and fixing it back into position. Once again, not hard just time consuming.

Next job was to remove the eyebrows from the headlight lenses and install them on the new lenses...... the hardest part of this job is not scratching the outer surface or getting marks on the inside surface.... made even harder with sticking the eyebrows in place and masking up the upper and side of the headlight lens to prevent light leakage.... finally got that done after only three or four attempts lol..... The quality of the OEM lenses is 200% better then the ebay stuff and definitely worth the extra $$

Final job was to touch up a couple of marks in the paint, position and test everything, before reassembling, running a bead of windscreen sealant around the headlight channel, baking for 10 mins, pressing them together to seal, a quick clean and a coat of UV sealant to protect them from sunburn

Took all day but job done

Is dark now so install will have to wait until tomorrow, hopefully they will work perfectly and I wont have to open them up again hahaha


Pics below

Pic 1 - Heat from the headlight bulb causes the wiring to crack
Pics 2 & 3 - Front and rear view of wiring and connection points
Pic 4 - Passenger side AE ring trimmed too much
Pics 5 Top and side of the lens needs to be masked to prevent light leakage
Pic 6 - Pays to check everything is working before sealing them up
Pics 7 & 8 - Finished and ready to install

[135]

Originally Posted by Socket

Mod 107 - 1M driveline continued
...
On the upside and as an added bonus, Vince coded in the modifications to the throttle response table he discovered the other day
Initially it didn't play nice, with Gary chucking codes and check engine lights, but after changing some settings, it worked great !!!

The improvement is amazing, the throttle response is immediate and makes taking off from a standing start much easier with the twitchy spec 2+ clutch... am loving the new improved feel and response

Ill say it again, Vince is a genius

vtl, is this the same throttle plate dampening/actuation tables that PeterY referred to in his post, https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...0#post24653240, in Theory 3 / Solution?