DISA valve rebuild

E92William · 12-09-2020, 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 200,000 club

Quote:

Originally Posted by E92William

Arent these kits basically a bottom gear that goes pressed into the flap via a center screw? You could have tightened and pressed it together too tightly. Though I personally think the way these kits are made is not as good as it could be done. IMO it should be a shaft like this one made of metal and a metal flap, basically like oem but a more durable material. But it's probably cheaper to make the separate gear and shaft for them..

The ukarauto one looks different and is aluminum, the kit in your picture looks exactly like the oem flaps. I'm just worried that the disa motor isnt strong enough to handle the aluminum flaps and shafts

Well the picture is just an OEM shaft and flap haha that's why. Do you have a picture of yours? I wonder if having the heavier aluminum flap kit does indeed slow the actuation down noticeably. These motors are pretty strong when rebrushed but still.

E90LCIGarth · 01-17-2021, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by belcom

I've ordered my kits from these guys https://ukarauto.com/repair-kits/815...k-smaller.html

shipping was quick. when I bought these a couple weeks ago these were on sale. $65 for smaller and $75 for large DISA.

Quote:

Originally Posted by belcom

I've ordered my kits from these guys https://ukarauto.com/repair-kits/815...k-smaller.html

shipping was quick. when I bought these a couple weeks ago these were on sale. $65 for smaller and $75 for large DISA.

I also bought one from these guys for my smaller DISA. Nice kit and high quality machining. The included a washer from the E46 kit so that had me confused for a moment.

My large valve will only actuate about 1/4 of the way using ISTA to trigger. I cracked the case open and the gears look good. There is play in the valve so it needs the rebuild kit.

I can actuate the valve with full motion using a 9V battery jumpered to the motor terminals. Reverse polarity to open/close. So the motor is strong enough.

But when triggering from the car, it won't actuate fully. So I'm thinking it's something on the circuit board. Too bad it's facing down so I can't see all of the solder joints😤. Not sure if I want to cut it up to troubleshoot the PCB but I probably will eventually.

I bought a new Uro parts DISA to get it running for now and I'll keep this OEM one for parts.

Anyone have success repairing the circuit board?