Ok to replace just one strut? Opinions needed

Murf · 08-28-2012, 04:50 PM

Left front is clunking and on its way out at only 33k miles, is it acceptable to replace just one side (and the corresponding mount) or *must* I do the entire front end. Out of warranty, strut is $290 + $100 for mount + labor, cheapskate in me much happier paying $600 than $1200.

#Tee · 08-28-2012, 05:00 PM

Just do both, if you fix one now 10 miles later the other one will clunk. Youll just waste more time waiting for the car sitting in the shop.

CJ421 · 08-28-2012, 07:03 PM

Agreed, replace both to be economical; you'll have to get an alignment after replacing one or both.

Are you quoting dealership prices?

CALWATERBOY · 08-28-2012, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJ421

Agreed, replace both to be economical; you'll have to get an alignment after replacing one or both.

This....and if you push it at all, you really, really, really don't want mis-matched shock performance.

Murf · 08-29-2012, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJ421

Agreed, replace both to be economical; you'll have to get an alignment after replacing one or both.

Are you quoting dealership prices?

No those are Tischler parts prices and I assumed 1.5-2 hrs per side at 100/hr

#Tee · 08-29-2012, 06:59 AM

The only time i'd performed an alignment on any suspension work would include camber kit-changes/springs height adjust/coilovers/geometry related bushings (not swaybar bushings), tie rods, roll center adjusters/subframe bushings. The strut/shocks does not determine vehicle height so caster/toe/camber does not change meaning no alignment is necessary. Unless you removed the set pin/camber located on the mount then camber did not change. This was just common practice at the dealership i worked at.

If youre talking about the rears depending on what bolt(eccentric bolt) you removed to take out the shock then your camber/toe would be off.

Being youre at 33k its almost or time to get new tires, i would advise to get the alignment after the new tires. This was just common practice at the dealership i worked at.

I dont understand why ppl still think a new or used shock alters vehicle height. If you can push the shock/strut down with little effort using your hands wouldnt you think the vehicle's weight will not do the same?

Murf · 08-29-2012, 07:28 AM

I understand the logic being put forth here, although I'm curious as to how much variance there can be between new and a part with 33k on it. Just pisses me off that I am replacing suspension components at this mileage. 33k can't be normal I would think the other should last to 80-100k, what are the odds of both failing early.
All this being said I'm sure i will end up doing both just to be safe, is 2 hours a side a reasonable expectation for labor?

08-28-2012, 04:50 PM	#1
Murf Captain 885 Rep 897 Posts Drives: 2021 G80 M3C - Dravit Grey Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Florida iTrader: (2)	Ok to replace just one strut? Opinions needed Left front is clunking and on its way out at only 33k miles, is it acceptable to replace just one side (and the corresponding mount) or must I do the entire front end. Out of warranty, strut is $290 + $100 for mount + labor, cheapskate in me much happier paying $600 than $1200.
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08-28-2012, 05:00 PM	#2
#Tee Major General 557 Rep 5,367 Posts Drives: yes Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Socal iTrader: (2)	Just do both, if you fix one now 10 miles later the other one will clunk. Youll just waste more time waiting for the car sitting in the shop. __________________ You can follow my builds on IG: Tee212
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08-28-2012, 07:03 PM	#3
CJ421 Brigadier General 1553 Rep 4,109 Posts Drives: BMW M3 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Blue Bell, PA iTrader: (1) Garage List 2024 BMW M3 Sedan [9.50]	Agreed, replace both to be economical; you'll have to get an alignment after replacing one or both. Are you quoting dealership prices? __________________ 2024 BMW M3 Sedan Frozen Pure Grey II/Fjord Blue, 6MT Past: 2021 Z4 M40i Frozen Grey II/Black Alcantara \| 2017 F30 340i Mineral Gray/Coral Red, 6MT \| 2011 E92 335i Le Mans Blue/Black, 6MT
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08-29-2012, 06:59 AM	#6
#Tee Major General 557 Rep 5,367 Posts Drives: yes Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Socal iTrader: (2)	The only time i'd performed an alignment on any suspension work would include camber kit-changes/springs height adjust/coilovers/geometry related bushings (not swaybar bushings), tie rods, roll center adjusters/subframe bushings. The strut/shocks does not determine vehicle height so caster/toe/camber does not change meaning no alignment is necessary. Unless you removed the set pin/camber located on the mount then camber did not change. This was just common practice at the dealership i worked at. If youre talking about the rears depending on what bolt(eccentric bolt) you removed to take out the shock then your camber/toe would be off. Being youre at 33k its almost or time to get new tires, i would advise to get the alignment after the new tires. This was just common practice at the dealership i worked at. I dont understand why ppl still think a new or used shock alters vehicle height. If you can push the shock/strut down with little effort using your hands wouldnt you think the vehicle's weight will not do the same? __________________ You can follow my builds on IG: Tee212
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08-29-2012, 07:28 AM	#7
Murf Captain 885 Rep 897 Posts Drives: 2021 G80 M3C - Dravit Grey Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Florida iTrader: (2)	I understand the logic being put forth here, although I'm curious as to how much variance there can be between new and a part with 33k on it. Just pisses me off that I am replacing suspension components at this mileage. 33k can't be normal I would think the other should last to 80-100k, what are the odds of both failing early. All this being said I'm sure i will end up doing both just to be safe, is 2 hours a side a reasonable expectation for labor?
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