[arkie6]

The only thing that I can think of that would cause a bent rod like that is hydro-locking that cylinder - either a slug of water was ingested in the intake or a leaking fuel injector is partially filling that cylinder with gasoline.

Originally Posted by arkie6

The only thing that I can think of that would cause a bent rod like that is hydro-locking that cylinder - either a slug of water was ingested in the intake or a leaking fuel injector is partially filling that cylinder with gasoline.

Agreed.

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by Cabdriver

Would be prudent to figure out why that rod bent, if you dont determine why or how it bent it could happen again and you may very well be back at square one.
The rotating assembly is pretty stout, for that to bend means something is lurking. Good luck with the rebuild.

I agree but I bought the car from an auction so I have no history. My only choice is to just look at everything closely and see if problems arise. It seems like the rod probably happened near the time of the wreck that totalled it, I found a popped off intercooler pipe and a bad coil pack but it could have been a 100 things.

[gde061]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I agree but I bought the car from an auction so I have no history. My only choice is to just look at everything closely and see if problems arise. It seems like the rod probably happened near the time of the wreck that totalled it, I found a popped off intercooler pipe and a bad coil pack but it could have been a 100 things.

First, I really enjoyed reading this thread. When I get into a big project like this, I just want to get things back together and never get around to documenting the work -- so thanks for taking the time to take photos and share!

Second, I totally sympathize with you about the garage situation. I have resolved that when my kids move out, I am going to move to a house that has more garage than house. Next time you build on a bank like that, blast out a lower level the full size of the foundation and make that your garage! My uncle had a split level built into a bank like that, but instead of a set of lower rooms, it was all garage space.

Last, about the cause of the bent rod, if the driver totalled the car close to redline, and, at the point they lost control htey closed down the throttle (as most people would do in a panic at 150+ mph) that might have caused it maybe... and also just thinking out loud, but if one of the pipes was popped off the inter-cooler then could be he had also tuned up the boost pressure to something that would have exacerbated shutting down the throttle. I'm curious to know if people more familiar with this engine (I've had mine all of 4 weeks) think that's likely...

Originally Posted by gde061

Last, about the cause of the bent rod, if the driver totalled the car close to redline, and, at the point they lost control htey closed down the throttle (as most people would do in a panic at 150+ mph) that might have caused it maybe... and also just thinking out loud, but if one of the pipes was popped off the inter-cooler then could be he had also tuned up the boost pressure to something that would have exacerbated shutting down the throttle. I'm curious to know if people more familiar with this engine (I've had mine all of 4 weeks) think that's likely...

Those are all conspiracy theory/tinfoil hat type hypotheses. Going off the information present, it's likely an injector issue. That has been a repeatable/consistent issue on this platform; unlike "banging off the redline" low impact wrecks.

[JonEQuest]

I am concerned about the possibility of a bad injector. When I get it back together I plan to invert my fuel lines so I can have the injectors spray into some water bottles to "see" that they are at least working and are equal. I can also then check for leak down after they are off and under pressure. The easy answer is to just buy all new injectors but there is some limit to my finances.

[Cabdriver]

Originally Posted by arkie6

The only thing that I can think of that would cause a bent rod like that is hydro-locking that cylinder - either a slug of water was ingested in the intake or a leaking fuel injector is partially filling that cylinder with gasoline.

Agree with the comments regarding injector based hydrolocking in this thread.

Small end rod damage would be easily identifiable, as would big end rod bearings and crankshaft issues; spun journal bearing etc.

A lean event that would cause a bent rod would more than likely caused piston fracture or penetration.

One trip up to top dead with a cylinder with enough fuel to exceed the space afforded by the combustion chamber would cause a bend for sure. Those injectors definitely need to be replaced.

Great thread and appreciate the knowledge add, good luck!

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I am concerned about the possibility of a bad injector. When I get it back together I plan to invert my fuel lines so I can have the injectors spray into some water bottles to "see" that they are at least working and are equal. I can also then check for leak down after they are off and under pressure. The easy answer is to just buy all new injectors but there is some limit to my finances.

Just do this:

See the wet/black tip on that injector even BEFORE he cranks the car? Again, visual signs will usually tell you whether or not you have a leaky injector..."spraying into a water bottle" isn't going to do anything but make a giant mess in your garage. These aren't port injectors spraying at relatively low pressure levels...whole different ball game with DI.

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

Just do this:

See the wet/black tip on that injector even BEFORE he cranks the car? Again, visual signs will usually tell you whether or not you have a leaky injector..."spraying into a water bottle" isn't going to do anything but make a giant mess in your garage. These aren't port injectors spraying at relatively low pressure levels...whole different ball game with DI.

That is where I got the idea.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I am officially naming this car "Whack-a-Mole".

You have gone through it with this one, wow. Hilarious name though, so true with so many of these things out there these days.

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

You have gone through it with this one, wow. Hilarious name though, so true with so many of these things out there these days.

I finally got the valves back in the head with new valve seals and a mild porting and polishing. I also blocked off the PCV ports with set screws. Time to hone the cylinder walls and put in my cleaned up pistons (and one replacement one) with new rings and rod bearings.

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I finally got the valves back in the head with new valve seals and a mild porting and polishing. I also blocked off the PCV ports with set screws. Time to hone the cylinder walls and put in my cleaned up pistons (and one replacement one) with new rings and rod bearings.

Honed the glaze off the piston walls and put the cleaned pistons with new rings and new rod bearings, oil pump and windage tray. back in. Valves are lapped and installed in the head with new seals. Maybe tomorrow I will get some time to put the head and turbos back on. Today it's eating turkey, then going to the Saints football game later to have some falcon meat.

[Unknown_Car]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

Oh yeah, the deeper the part is the more I want it to be right. I'm sure I'm much older than most of you here, but I have a lot of experience troubleshooting and repairing electronic systems, complex mechanisms, and of course cars. I used to be an electronic field service technician. I worked on very complex currency counting and counterfeit detection equipment. Believe it or not this car is really not THAT complicated. The good thing about a climate controlled garage that has a jigawatt of LED light is that I can take my time to clean and inspect everything. That way I can see what original parts I can just clean and service, and which ones I have to replace. The only reason I'm not doing crank bearings is because:

1 - Low miles on the motor.
2 - Rod bearings were in pretty good shape, so crank ones probably are too.
3 - Removing & resealing the bed plate is kind of a big deal.
4 - My garage doesn't have any room left with a custom golf cart and lots of other tools and materials.

I've actually even started doing some research on waste gate and turbo rebuild. I can feel that my wastegate bushings/arms have a good amount of slop. But I don't want to push the engine until it's broken in and tested properly. I'm going to just clean and leave the turbos as is for now. If everything goes right after the break in, I'm pretty competent now in dropping subframe and replacing turbos.

No need to drop the subframe to take out the turbo and installing. I did my turbo remove and install my single turbo same day. Didn't have to take the subframe out only take the engine moutnt on the passenger side and have a jack to hold the motor under.

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

...I also blocked off the PCV ports with set screws...

I've got my parts and will be doing this soon, but on an assembled head/motor in the car, which is a little worrisome. I know it's doable, but do you have any tips/insights you might've learned while doing yours?

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

I've got my parts and will be doing this soon, but on an assembled head/motor in the car, which is a little worrisome. I know it's doable, but do you have any tips/insights you might've learned while doing yours?

Just be careful not to let ANY metal shavings fall into the intake or top of the head. I would shove rags in the intake port after removing the intake. Yes, remove the intake because I see no way to NOT have a piece of metal fall into the hole as you tap it. You don't need to drill. I used a 5mm x 0.80 tap and it was the perfect size. Then the same size little set screws from a hardware store fit perfect and flush.

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by Roma_335i

No need to drop the subframe to take out the turbo and installing. I did my turbo remove and install my single turbo same day. Didn't have to take the subframe out only take the engine moutnt on the passenger side and have a jack to hold the motor under.

I needed to replace motor mounts, remove rods, oil pan, etc. Dropping the sub frame for me was not optional.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

Honed the glaze off the piston walls and put the cleaned pistons with new rings and new rod bearings, oil pump and windage tray. back in. Valves are lapped and installed in the head with new seals. Maybe tomorrow I will get some time to put the head and turbos back on. Today it's eating turkey, then going to the Saints football game later to have some falcon meat.

Hey are you local to NOLA? I’m in mandeville...

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

Hey are you local to NOLA? I’m in mandeville...

I am in Kenna brah.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I am in Kenna brah.

That’s awesome...I totally agree with your assessment before about needing to work in a garage...the SoCal guys don’t understand that a 504 boy can’t rebuild an engine in his driveway...

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

That’s awesome...I totally agree with your assessment before about needing to work in a garage...the SoCal guys don’t understand that a 504 boy can’t rebuild an engine in his driveway...

Not with constant rain and alternating cold and hot days.

[JonEQuest]

UPDATE:
I finally got the oil pump, oil pan back on. I also cleaned the turbos and adjusted the loose waste gates on them last night as well. Putting the head on by myself was a challenge so I rigged up a chain and lowered it with a rope in one hand as I angled and seated it with the other hand. It was a real pain in the ass but it is on and torqued down.

[JonEQuest]

I finally got some time to install the turbos. I also adjusted the waste gate rods to take up all the slop from worn parts.