[Chris']

2 weeks ago I was driving on the Highway. The car lost power and shut off.

I pulled the battery to check it. It was fine. Put it back in and it worked for a week. Started again today. Except it stalls as soon as it warms up. Shut off the ignition and then it will start again for 1 mins then shut off again. . I left it and went back 2 hours later and it started. I raced home before it heated up again. It went into limp mode once only but shuts off right away soon as it goes into limp mode. Most of the time no code. Just shuts off. Help. Lol. When it shut down in the highway it almost killed me . Loss of all engine. But display still on and lights on. Just kills the ignition.

[relative4]

What codes?

[Chris']

I'm getting them read tomorrow. By a BMW Tech. I'll post them.

[Chris']

The codes were read by a BMW technician at my place.
I didn't get the code number but it had 3 relay codes come up and 2 undervoltage codes. So he said it was in the box up front "cream colored one" that has the dme in it. Hopefully that works. He said I should do the battery at the same time. It's not showing full voltage under load test. I hope this works. I can't drive it. It just loses power on the highway and I have to coast to the side lane. I don't lose power on the screen but the motor shuts down completely.

[IllSic_Design]

Lol dude we can't help you unless you gives us actual code numbers. You need those codes to pinpoint exactly what/where the issue is.

[Chris']

What's a good code reader. I'm going to buy one. Seems I should if I'm going to own a BMW.

[relative4]

Launch CRP123
Foxwell NT510

[Chris']

ok , so I bought a foxwell code reader nt510

Im a newb , owned many cars and fell in love with this car soon as I drove it. Sorry if i wrote to much. Just trying to figure it out. died on the highway. no stall...just literally no power to coils, all lights and screens on. zero power though. pull off and car wont start. it tries, turning over no problem. I shut off the ignition and turn in back on. fires up and drives for a while. then will die again. T took out the battery to test it. A little low but not anywhere near critical during full load test. put back in. ran for a week and a half. then shut down again, started no problem after shutting ignition but from then on would shut down every 2 to 5 minutes. especially when the temp went to operating temperature. took neg off battery and then it would idle again and ran for 30 mins on a small run.

-first code 371 C/not present relay, ignition and injectors, activation short circuit to B+
-second code 29A3/not present outside temperature sensor plausibility. ambient temperature less than model temperature
-third code 2F44/Not present ignition circuit supply voltage: cylinder bank or engine failure
-fourth code 2A61 / not present relay ignition and injection system, supply voltage fuel injection: line disconnection
-fifth code repeat of first code
--a few duplicate of the above
-sixth code 387F/not present power management standby current violation
not necessarily in a row. a repeat of the 371 V/not present relay ignition and injectors activation: short circuit to B+

others A669 / not present FZD interior lights front
E2C7 not present con: K-Can communication fault
A559 /Not present instrument cluster. power supply has been
switched off (closed circuit current cutoff relay)
6EC4/ not present dsc steering angle adjustment
55C3 /not present vtg awd limp home control activated. no dsc
specified torque

I've been told to replace relay..not sure which one and new battery by dealership.

As i said, im new to BMW. I just want my beauty back running

[Chris']

Thank you for the info. Im a newb. my wife was in the car and freaked out when it died...lol girls, but im glad she wasnt driving it. Lost all engine and then the brake peddle went flat. kinda scary.

[boostE92d]

Has the car had the battery cable recall done? Low voltage due to the cable being bad or the battery failing will cause tons of problems. My car is meticulously maintained, but a body shop unhooking the battery caused codes and strange behavior. My windows were rolling down on there own. After reprogramming, all was well.

[Chris']

Its not showing that as a recall not completed. All my recalls are up to date as per the local dealership and the online checker.

[Chris']

Hoping someone will give me a hand with this. car is currently useless to drive as I never know when its going to die on me.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Chris'

2 weeks ago I was driving on the Highway. The car lost power and shut off.

I pulled the battery to check it. It was fine. Put it back in and it worked for a week. Started again today. Except it stalls as soon as it warms up. Shut off the ignition and then it will start again for 1 mins then shut off again. . I left it and went back 2 hours later and it started. I raced home before it heated up again. It went into limp mode once only but shuts off right away soon as it goes into limp mode. Most of the time no code. Just shuts off. Help. Lol. When it shut down in the highway it almost killed me . Loss of all engine. But display still on and lights on. Just kills the ignition.

You think we are magicians here ? Post some codes man, too much story telling.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Chris'

ok , so I bought a foxwell code reader nt510

Im a newb , owned many cars and fell in love with this car soon as I drove it. Sorry if i wrote to much. Just trying to figure it out. died on the highway. no stall...just literally no power to coils, all lights and screens on. zero power though. pull off and car wont start. it tries, turning over no problem. I shut off the ignition and turn in back on. fires up and drives for a while. then will die again. T took out the battery to test it. A little low but not anywhere near critical during full load test. put back in. ran for a week and a half. then shut down again, started no problem after shutting ignition but from then on would shut down every 2 to 5 minutes. especially when the temp went to operating temperature. took neg off battery and then it would idle again and ran for 30 mins on a small run.

-first code 371 C/not present relay, ignition and injectors, activation short circuit to B+
-second code 29A3/not present outside temperature sensor plausibility. ambient temperature less than model temperature
-third code 2F44/Not present ignition circuit supply voltage: cylinder bank or engine failure
-fourth code 2A61 / not present relay ignition and injection system, supply voltage fuel injection: line disconnection
-fifth code repeat of first code
--a few duplicate of the above
-sixth code 387F/not present power management standby current violation
not necessarily in a row. a repeat of the 371 V/not present relay ignition and injectors activation: short circuit to B+

others A669 / not present FZD interior lights front
E2C7 not present con: K-Can communication fault
A559 /Not present instrument cluster. power supply has been
switched off (closed circuit current cutoff relay)
6EC4/ not present dsc steering angle adjustment
55C3 /not present vtg awd limp home control activated. no dsc
specified torque

I've been told to replace relay..not sure which one and new battery by dealership.

As i said, im new to BMW. I just want my beauty back running

looks like battery issues.. how did you test the battery exactly ?

[W37V]

What the heck is 335i “special edition”??

[335ivin]

Originally Posted by Chris'

2 weeks ago I was driving on the Highway. The car lost power and shut off.

I pulled the battery to check it. It was fine. Put it back in and it worked for a week. Started again today. Except it stalls as soon as it warms up. Shut off the ignition and then it will start again for 1 mins then shut off again. . I left it and went back 2 hours later and it started. I raced home before it heated up again. It went into limp mode once only but shuts off right away soon as it goes into limp mode. Most of the time no code. Just shuts off. Help. Lol. When it shut down in the highway it almost killed me . Loss of all engine. But display still on and lights on. Just kills the ignition.

Several years ago my 335i did the samething, the dealer changed the water pump and problem fix. Not sure this is your case but something to look at. A bad battery also throws lots of codes

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Chris'

...died on the highway...pull off and car wont start...turning over no problem. I shut off the ignition and turn in back on. fires up and drives for a while. then will die again.
[CODES:]
-371C/not present: relay, ignition and injectors, activation short circuit to B+
-2F44/Not present: ignition circuit supply voltage: cylinder bank or engine failure
-2A61/ not present: relay ignition and injection system, supply voltage fuel injection: line disconnection
...I've been told to replace relay..not sure which one and new battery by dealership...

It seems the answer is hiding in plain sight.

Forget the battery, but REPLACE the RELAY (K6341) per the following TIS circuit diagram:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335i-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-mevd/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/CkOkr85a

Here is WHERE it is hiding (in the E-box under hood, per TIS "Installation Location"):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335i-lim/components-connectors/components/k-relays/k6341-relay-for-ignition-fuel-injection/GIa14aVV

Here is the part (BMW part# 61366915327, $17.70):
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/relay/61366915327/

This is a DIY fix. Just disconnect the negative battery terminal BEFORE removing/replacing the relay, as it has power supplied directly by the battery, and you can cause issues in the DME or elsewhere if you were to short something with the battery connected.

That's the "simple fix," but in the real world, there's ALWAYS other things that could cause the same symptoms, such as a corroded or loose connection anywhere in the power supply circuit. So just replace the relay, but while you are at it, trace the circuit shown in the diagram above, so that you know what to come back & check (with your new multimeter ;-) if simply replacing the relay does NOT fix the problem.

NOT all electrical issues are caused by a "bad battery." You now have a scan tool, next suggested "major purchase" is a DMM (Digital Multimeter -- $6):
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63604.html

If you would like to be able to understand & diagnose your own vehicle, I would suggest browsing some of the links in the attached pdf, E9x References, and particularly learning how to use TIS Online Service Manual, and its circuit diagrams.

EDIT: sorry about the links above -- thought I copied/pasted as dozens of times before -- has site changed or did I have "brain-lock"?

In any event, you can copy/paste the URLs to your browser, the URLs ARE correct.

Please let us know how it works out,
George

[ozziewizzle]

Originally Posted by W37V

What the heck is 335i “special edition”??

335is I assume...

[Chris']

Originally Posted by W37V

What the heck is 335i “special edition”??

At the end of 2011 they made a took a 335i xdrive sedan and added the power pack. M package with a few m3 colours and some other stuff to move the end of model

19" rims. The individual package stereo special interior.

Almost like a 335is with xdrive sedan.

What I don't know is if it's got launch.

[Chris']

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

It seems the answer is hiding in plain sight.

Forget the battery, but REPLACE the RELAY (K6341) per the following TIS circuit diagram:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335i-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-mevd/voltage-supply/control-unit-power-supply/CkOkr85a

Here is WHERE it is hiding (in the E-box under hood, per TIS "Installation Location"):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335i-lim/components-connectors/components/k-relays/k6341-relay-for-ignition-fuel-injection/GIa14aVV

Here is the part (BMW part# 61366915327, $17.70):
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/relay/61366915327/

This is a DIY fix. Just disconnect the negative battery terminal BEFORE removing/replacing the relay, as it has power supplied directly by the battery, and you can cause issues in the DME or elsewhere if you were to short something with the battery connected.

That's the "simple fix," but in the real world, there's ALWAYS other things that could cause the same symptoms, such as a corroded or loose connection anywhere in the power supply circuit. So just replace the relay, but while you are at it, trace the circuit shown in the diagram above, so that you know what to come back & check (with your new multimeter ;-) if simply replacing the relay does NOT fix the problem.

NOT all electrical issues are caused by a "bad battery." You now have a scan tool, next suggested "major purchase" is a DMM (Digital Multimeter -- $6):
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63604.html

If you would like to be able to understand & diagnose your own vehicle, I would suggest browsing some of the links in the attached pdf, E9x References, and particularly learning how to use TIS Online Service Manual, and its circuit diagrams.

EDIT: sorry about the links above -- thought I copied/pasted as dozens of times before -- has site changed or did I have "brain-lock"?

In any event, you can copy/paste the URLs to your browser, the URLs ARE correct.

Please let us know how it works out,
George

Do my buddies son is a BMW Tech. He just did the replacement your talking about I think. He's been great. He did the ignition injection relay. The battery was showing slightly lower voltage as well. Replaced that as well.. I've alot to learn about this car. But love it.
Thank you for your help. Crossing my fingers. I've been in a rental for 2 weeks. Hyuandi genesis. Not even close to the same car. I'm going out to get the multimeter tomorrow.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Chris'

At the end of 2011 they made a took a 335i xdrive sedan and added the power pack. M package with a few m3 colours and some other stuff to move the end of model

19" rims. The individual package stereo special interior.

Almost like a 335is with xdrive sedan.

What I don't know is if it's got launch.

I don't think this was offered in US. Was this in Canada or somewhere else?

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by W37V

I don't think this was offered in US. Was this in Canada or somewhere else?

Yes, Canada special version.