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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Ask a Professional Detailer...



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      12-23-2012, 04:33 AM   #1717
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i am seriously learning sooo much in this epic thread
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      12-26-2012, 01:02 PM   #1718
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Hello. Anyone know what would be great for cleaning the woodtrim? Any help is greatly appreciated!
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      12-26-2012, 04:57 PM   #1719
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New X3 prep in January?

About to take delivery of my new ALpine White X3 and I know I'm supposed to seal/wax it right away but its January and I do not have access to heated work area so think that is going to be a problem. Would you recommend my best option is to have it professionally detailed?

If so, have never paid for professional detailing before. I know certain products are better for white cars, do I trust them to use the best product to use or should I be specific about what I want (not necessarily specifying a particular brand but stating that I want one thats good for white, high gloss, etc)? Don't know the protocol, and don't want to insult their expertise, but if I'm going to pay good money for a pro job I think I should be happy with results.

Also I read best protocol is to clay, seal, wax. Is this part of normal detailer protocol, or do I need to specify if I want this? If this is not normal protocol then I guess I'll be paying more for this level of detail.

Any advice appreciated.
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      12-29-2012, 04:48 PM   #1720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendellg85
About to take delivery of my new ALpine White X3 and I know I'm supposed to seal/wax it right away but its January and I do not have access to heated work area so think that is going to be a problem. Would you recommend my best option is to have it professionally detailed?

If so, have never paid for professional detailing before. I know certain products are better for white cars, do I trust them to use the best product to use or should I be specific about what I want (not necessarily specifying a particular brand but stating that I want one thats good for white, high gloss, etc)? Don't know the protocol, and don't want to insult their expertise, but if I'm going to pay good money for a pro job I think I should be happy with results.

Also I read best protocol is to clay, seal, wax. Is this part of normal detailer protocol, or do I need to specify if I want this? If this is not normal protocol then I guess I'll be paying more for this level of detail.

Any advice appreciated.
If you get it professionally detailed go to someone like Phil at Detailers Domain.
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      01-03-2013, 12:04 PM   #1721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelsonvr6 View Post
Hey DI,

I just got into an 06 Monaco Blue 330i a few weeks ago and love the car. The car was taken care of by the previous owner and seems to have only light swirls and just a couple small scratches. I would like to build a detailing kit and wanted advice on which products to start with. After reading up I would like to include the PC 7424xp polisher and a foam gun. I would also need leather care products. the products i have now are standard auto parts shampoo and towels so i have to start from scratch. Thanks for your time.
Thank you for the message and I apologize to all for the slow response just been crazy busy with the holiday rush. Congrats on the new ride! I'd be happy to help you really make the paint pop! You are on the right track probably just a light polishing will be enough followed by a coating of protection to enhance the paint.

For the paint a buffer will be a huge asset. I'd highly recommend the Porter Cable 7424XP Random Orbital Buffer and a Lake Country 5" Backing Plate for Porter Cable 7424 XP. There are no wrong sizes but the 5" backing plate and 5.5" pads is often what I recommend the most if you have to pick just one. I'd suggest the Menzerna Super Finish Polish SF 4000 (PO106FA Nano Polish) and two Lake Country White Polishing Pads. This will remove fine swirls, oxidation, etc. so the paint is more optically clear and you get that deeper reflection. Next apply a sealant with the Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad to protect the paint for about 4 - 6 months. The Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant is a great choice that looks outstanding and is very durable.

I think this two step routine would be a great boost to the appearance and be easy to work with. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI
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      01-03-2013, 12:12 PM   #1722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJRxyz View Post
Hello. Anyone know what would be great for cleaning the woodtrim? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Wood trim is often a coated plastic that you can clean with most interior cleaners like the Einszett 1Z Cockpit Premium or the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover combined with a clean microfiber towel (DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel Blue).

If you are seeing ultra fine scratches and swirls in the finish it can be polished to some extent, but please note this coating is not nearly as thick as the exterior clear coat so don't over polish it. I'd suggest a very fine polish like the Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish or the Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 (PO85RD). Apply a small amount on a microfiber towel or foam app and buff with light to medium pressure, then wipe away the excess product with a clean microfiber towel.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI
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      01-03-2013, 12:34 PM   #1723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendellg85 View Post
About to take delivery of my new ALpine White X3 and I know I'm supposed to seal/wax it right away but its January and I do not have access to heated work area so think that is going to be a problem. Would you recommend my best option is to have it professionally detailed?

If so, have never paid for professional detailing before. I know certain products are better for white cars, do I trust them to use the best product to use or should I be specific about what I want (not necessarily specifying a particular brand but stating that I want one thats good for white, high gloss, etc)? Don't know the protocol, and don't want to insult their expertise, but if I'm going to pay good money for a pro job I think I should be happy with results.

Also I read best protocol is to clay, seal, wax. Is this part of normal detailer protocol, or do I need to specify if I want this? If this is not normal protocol then I guess I'll be paying more for this level of detail.

Any advice appreciated.
Unfortunately there is no true norms in our industry. You can pay a lot for terrible work it really just depends on the particular place and detailer. Your best bet is to read through our detailing guide and educate your self so you can ask good questions. The more knowledge you have the better you can understand the value of the service they provide. Each place can most likely do whatever you ask, but costs and quality will vary. Good work will not be cheap, but usually it's well worth it. For a new vehicle they may have a set package to offer you where they protect the interior and exterior really well. At a minimum I would request they seal it after a thorough cleaning. A coat of wax can help add more protection and shine but it may not last too long in the winter months. For detailers in the Philly area there are several options on our Find A Detailer Map. I know Oakes Detailing does good work in that area too http://oakesdetail.com/. Good luck!

Greg @ DI
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      01-12-2013, 09:47 PM   #1724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Unfortunately there is no true norms in our industry. You can pay a lot for terrible work it really just depends on the particular place and detailer. Your best bet is to read through our detailing guide and educate your self so you can ask good questions. The more knowledge you have the better you can understand the value of the service they provide. Each place can most likely do whatever you ask, but costs and quality will vary. Good work will not be cheap, but usually it's well worth it. For a new vehicle they may have a set package to offer you where they protect the interior and exterior really well. At a minimum I would request they seal it after a thorough cleaning. A coat of wax can help add more protection and shine but it may not last too long in the winter months. For detailers in the Philly area there are several options on our Find A Detailer Map. I know Oakes Detailing does good work in that area too http://oakesdetail.com/. Good luck!

Greg @ DI
Thanks Greg!
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      01-20-2013, 04:29 PM   #1725
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Chemical Guys CWG + FoamMaster ratio

Hi

Forgive me if this has been asked before. I searched but couldn't find an answer.

I have Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss and a Gilmour FoamMaster. Could you tell me the ratio of CWG to use for

1. maintenance washes
2. stripping LSP

when used with the FoamMaster?

Also at what setting should the gun be at when using the ratio's recommended?

Thanks in advance
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      01-23-2013, 11:20 AM   #1726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by causeceleb View Post
Hi

Forgive me if this has been asked before. I searched but couldn't find an answer.

I have Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss and a Gilmour FoamMaster. Could you tell me the ratio of CWG to use for

1. maintenance washes
2. stripping LSP

when used with the FoamMaster?

Also at what setting should the gun be at when using the ratio's recommended?

Thanks in advance
There is a good article about the Foamaster and Citrus Wash and Clear in our AAP Blog. I know you have the Citrus Wash and Gloss but it has the same exact concentration so the dilution ratios are the same.

.5 oz per gallon will not strip protection
2 oz per gallon of water will strip protection

If you put it on Setting E you'll get the richest concentration of whatever you put in the reservoir. To not strip the protection I believe you would use about .5 ounces of CWC and 11.5 ounces of water. With so little shampoo being used I fear you may not get enough lubricity for safe washing, but you're welcome to try. I personally don't recommend this shampoo for maintenance washes with the foam gun for this reason. For stripping shampoos the minimum shampoo you would use on Setting E I believe is 2 ounces of shampoo and 10 ounces of water. I personally use a bit more to shampoo to be certain it's strong enough to strip old protection. I hope I got my ratios right and I hope this was helpful!

Greg @ DI
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      02-04-2013, 09:39 PM   #1727
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whats the best way to keep the bmw performance steering wheel clean (suede)?
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      02-05-2013, 05:17 AM   #1728
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I have a 2007 bmw 530i with the style 123 wheels and they are a PAIN in the ass to keep clean. I recently switched my brake pads to HAWKS and it has significantly reduced the amount of brake dust. I want to clean the wheels really well and since they are off the car, I figured this would be the best time. There is a LOT of brake dust and road grime that has set into the wheels. I am going to order the following:

1) Sonax wheel cleaner
2) Claybar the wheels
3) Opticoat Sealant or PB Wheel Sealant

My question is, which sealant is better for long term durability for a daily driver. Also, should I polish the wheels before applying the sealant? Thank You!!
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      02-06-2013, 01:14 PM   #1729
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new car

Ok.....so I am completely lost reading the post. My knowledge of this area does not exceed that of Turtle wax, and I may be giving myself too much credit. I have a new vehicle(E90 mystic blue), and purchased a "natural" wax product from BMW. What would be your recommendations be going forward on caring for the car to someone who's knowledge is little. I turned down the "teflon" product offered by the dealership. I do not drive the vehicle in inclimate weather. How do you feel about the "california dusters".
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      02-11-2013, 02:44 PM   #1730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335_MI6 View Post
whats the best way to keep the bmw performance steering wheel clean (suede)?
Suede is probably one of the more challenging surfaces to care for because it is so sensitive. For general cleaning take a soft brush and lightly brush the surface. If you have stains or build ups I use a very light amount of the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover on it with a soft brush. In general you want to avoid using cleaners or moisture so again use as little as possible. When you are done brush the area gently to help remove moisture and leave the windows or doors open to help circulate air and dry the surface.

The best preventative measure is to make sure you're hands are clean entering the vehicle, so avoid lotions, make up, etc. Good luck!

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      02-11-2013, 02:53 PM   #1731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houbmw View Post
I have a 2007 bmw 530i with the style 123 wheels and they are a PAIN in the ass to keep clean. I recently switched my brake pads to HAWKS and it has significantly reduced the amount of brake dust. I want to clean the wheels really well and since they are off the car, I figured this would be the best time. There is a LOT of brake dust and road grime that has set into the wheels. I am going to order the following:

1) Sonax wheel cleaner
2) Claybar the wheels
3) Opticoat Sealant or PB Wheel Sealant

My question is, which sealant is better for long term durability for a daily driver. Also, should I polish the wheels before applying the sealant? Thank You!!
Glad to hear you're going to give those wheels a thorough cleaning and protective coating. After the cleaning and clay bar I would still recommend polishing them with something like the P21S Finish Restorer to help remove oxidation and embedded contaminants. I would almost guarantee it will make a big difference.

For protection the Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating will definitely be more durable. This is an awesome way to preserve the wheels. I would also recommend you check out the 22ple VM1 Rim and Metal Coating, which is similar to Opti-Coat but it seems to release contaminants better. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

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      02-11-2013, 03:16 PM   #1732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90raw View Post
Ok.....so I am completely lost reading the post. My knowledge of this area does not exceed that of Turtle wax, and I may be giving myself too much credit. I have a new vehicle(E90 mystic blue), and purchased a "natural" wax product from BMW. What would be your recommendations be going forward on caring for the car to someone who's knowledge is little. I turned down the "teflon" product offered by the dealership. I do not drive the vehicle in inclimate weather. How do you feel about the "california dusters".
We all have to start somewhere and I'd be happy to help you get started. To get some of the basics down I'd highly recommend reading our detailing guide and Ask a Pro Blog, both are tremendous resources.

Turning the the "teflon" package down was probably a very good decision. They usually contain a lot of fine print so I believe you made the right choice. In general I'm not a huge fan of the dusters which is why we don't carry them but I understand it can be helpful to those who are not absolute perfectionists about the paint.

Some very brief tips for you to get you started on top of the detailing guide and blog posts linked above.
- never visit a car wash with bristles
- washing and drying is where most swirls (curved micro-scratches in the clear coat) come from so pay really good attention to your wash process and products
- Apply a coat of protection on a semi-regular schedule. Most natural waxes protect for about 3 - 6 weeks so apply them more frequently. A synthetic wax (aka sealant) can give you 4 - 6 months of protection so that is usually a better option for daily drivers.

If you visit our store (www.DetailedImage.com) you can have use one code per purchase, here are three of our best deals.

10% off code e90post
$4.99 shipping code DI499 (min spend $49)
Free shipping code DIFREE (min spend $149)

Let me know if you have any specific questions or if you need any recommendations.

Greg @ DI
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      02-12-2013, 01:36 PM   #1733
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wax

Thank you for getting back.....and thanks for the patience. I know you get alot of questions. I reviewed your website. If I purchase a carnuba wax, can I apply and remove by hand? I have always waxed/dewaxed my vehicles along the cars "lines". Is this proper? Does the dealership use sealants, etc when they prep the car, and if so, what effect will this have on my care, and when will this wear off. My car is a 2011 brought into service in May 2012.
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      02-13-2013, 10:10 AM   #1734
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Originally Posted by E90raw View Post
Thank you for getting back.....and thanks for the patience. I know you get alot of questions. I reviewed your website. If I purchase a carnuba wax, can I apply and remove by hand? I have always waxed/dewaxed my vehicles along the cars "lines". Is this proper? Does the dealership use sealants, etc when they prep the car, and if so, what effect will this have on my care, and when will this wear off. My car is a 2011 brought into service in May 2012.
Glad to help out so no worries at all.

Generally speaking dealerships, even high end ones, often use very generic detailing supplies that will not protect very long (maybe 1 - 2 months). Each place varies so I'm not sure what they use for protection. Generally they are focused on speed, cost of supplies and making the car look good for a few days. Dealerships sometimes use products with heavy fillers to help hide fine imperfections when a customer picks up their car. Anything they applied would be long gone by now. A good wax, which most dealerships do not use, will last about 1 - 2 months and a good sealant will last 4 - 6 months in my experiences. If you want to be extra safe making sure no protection is left on the surface wash with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash. This citrus based shampoo removes old sealant and wax.

You can apply sealants and waxes with the "lines" of the car or in a circular motion generally speaking. Assuming you have properly cleaned the surface and you're using paint safe supplies (applicator and towels) it shouldn't have much impact. You can apply sealants and waxes and get very similar results to what a buffer would do. Polishes are the step where you really want the added power of a buffer.

If you need any recommendations please don't hesitate to ask! Don't forget we have 20% off through 2/15 with the code VDAY13. Take care!

Greg @ DI
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      02-17-2013, 02:24 PM   #1735
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sealant

I purchased some of your products. Thanks for mentioning the sale. I love the quick detailer and the microfiber cloth. My wife mentioned the car looks better than when we picked it up from the dealer last month.(that may not be a compliment after reading your post). I have a couple questions. If I use a sealer, do you still wax the car? Is it too soon to apply a sealant if I just purchased the car. If I use a sealant on the tires does that cause problem,s latter on(peeling, etc). I have some recalcitrant tar on the hood that didnt come off with the spray degreaser. Any suggestions.
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      02-19-2013, 04:14 PM   #1736
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I bought a bunch of stuff from detailed image to do a Spring detail, and the only thing I'm missing is sealant and polish. I have a jet black 2009 e92, and they are some water spots and swirls in the paint. I don't have a random orbital and I would prefer to do all polishing by hand. What polish do you recommend I buy to get most of the water spots and swirls out with? Also what is a good sealant? The wax I bought is Poorboys Natty Blue if that makes a difference for sealant.
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      02-21-2013, 01:59 PM   #1737
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Hello I recently purchased a 2011 Jet Black 328I and already had it detailed at a shop near my job (they had my car all day over 8hours- and it was the only vehicle they worked on) needless to say it looked 10 times better than when the dealer gave me my keys LOL

Anyways I just want to be able to maintain it like washing it once a week I would like to see what you would suggest as in products for washing and a quick detailer type product and or anything that would be beneficial.

We all know how hard it is to maintain a BLACK car :P

As well as a good product for my Black Matte Rims.

Thx in advance
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      03-01-2013, 10:23 AM   #1738
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Quick Detailers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Great questions and thank you for the positive feedback.

I am a big fan of claying a new vehicle, I recently responded to the poll posted on claying a new vehicle so I'll copy over my response.



To really maximize your results with detailing, knowing about the proper process and techniques will take you further than the products you are using. Once you understand what each step of the process is trying to achieve and how to do it correctly, you can properly decide on which products will best fit your needs, budget and most importantly, meet your detailing objectives.

In my eyes, there are roughly 12 processes that your exterior can undergo.

Washing & Drying - This is an important step to master because this is the foundation of any detail. This is also the process in which most imperfections are added to your paint, so take the time to research the proper washing and drying techniques.

Waterless Washing - This is a great step to learn if you do not have access to a hose on a regular basis. It works great for people who reside in apartment complexes and mobile detailers.

Using a Clay Bar - This step will help further remove surface contamination that was left behind during the wash stage of the detail. It properly preps the surface for the next steps.

Compounding - This step is used to correct paint with severe defects. Only use this step as a last resort after other, less aggressive methods have been tried and failed. You will almost always leave a haze or marring behind with this step which will need to be corrected by polishing or finishing the paint. You are removing part of the clear coat during this step.

Polishing - This step will take care of most imperfections, like light swirls, water marks, light surface scratches, etc. You are removing a minimal amount of clear coat during this step.

Finishing Polishes - This step will remove any hazing left behind from a more aggressive polish or a rotary buffer. This is when you diminish swirls and other imperfections to a minimum and the gloss and depth really jumps out. You will typically remove a tiny bit of the clear coat during this step.

All In One Products - This step is used to save time by combining some cleaning or polishing characteristics along with some form of protection. While the results are not quite as good as doing the steps separately, these products save time for people looking for great results in less time.

Glazes - Glazes typically have oils and clay in their formula in order to help fill in and hide imperfections. This is only a temporary solution as the fillers will wash out over time.

Sealants - This step adds a barrier of protection that typically lasts 3 - 6 months. A majority of sealants are easy to apply and remove, while giving off a reflective, mirror like look. These products are usually created in a lab.

Waxes - This step will add protection that typically lasts 2 - 8 weeks. A benefit of waxing is you add depth and dimension that sealants are unable to achieve. This is commonly used at car shows to really give off the wet look.

Spray on Protectants - This step usually enhances either a sealant or wax and is often used after a wash and dry during a maintenance step.

Quick Detailers - These products often have light cleaners in them and are great for removing a light dusting after performing a full detail.

Getting to know each step of the detailing process will really help you grow and learn when and why you are performing a detail on your vehicle. This is especially important if you plan on detailing for other people. It will save you a lot of time and you will best meet the customers needs by understanding what happens during each step of the process.

After you really understand what is going on, the products used are just the finishing touches. Once you start looking at the higher quality brands of detailing products, when used correctly, they will yield great results. Some products look better on certain colors, some will be more durable, some interior will give off more gloss or more of a matte look, etc. We all come to have our favorites and go to products over time.

Golden Rule - Prep work is the key to any quality detail. This means removing as much contamination as possible and removing as many imperfections in the clear coat as possible (while doing it safely of course). Prep work occurs during washing and drying, using a clay bar, polishing and glazing.

As far as Zaino vs OTC products is concerned. I think the biggest thing you would notice is longer durability of the protection offered. Zaino is always noted for its durability and recently have made some of their products easier to apply and use. If you vehicle is heavily swirled, Zaino may not be the best option to take, as they only have an option or two that actually remove imperfections. Other steps, such as Z5 fill in and hide imperfections.

I hope this gives you some insight on caring for your new vehicle and what options are available to you when it comes to choosing what processes your vehicle can undergo.

If you have any questions on anything presented, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
I currently use california duster which I know you do not like. Is it ok to spray on quick detailer instead and use microfiber to "dust off". Will this mare the paint?
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