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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > New turbos, limp mode PLS HELP



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      09-23-2020, 10:37 PM   #1
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New turbos, limp mode PLS HELP

Today I finished up my RB two and rod bearing job, and now when I drive it after about 2-3 minutes of driving it will go into limp mode. Codes are boost pressure control deactivation(3100) and knock sensor 2 (not sure the number). For the few minutes the car isn't in limp mode the car feels faster than it used to, and seems to run fine. I would post log but it was raining today. Seem a few people talk about some sort of dme software update that helped. Any ideas ?
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      09-23-2020, 10:50 PM   #2
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“Feels faster than before” Don’t rod bearings have a break in period?

Either way, 3100 is A result because of the knock. Engine trying to protect itself.

I’d be swapping that knock sensor. If that don’t fix it. You might be actually getting knock.
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      09-23-2020, 10:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredcase View Post
“Feels faster than before” Don’t rod bearings have a break in period?

Either way, 3100 is A result because of the knock. Engine trying to protect itself.

I’d be swapping that knock sensor. If that don’t fix it. You might be actually getting knock.
I looked into a break in period and some people said 250 miles and some people said just drive it, I was not redlining it, just getting into boost. Any way to tell if the sensor is broken forsure ? And I don't see how id be getting knock when the bearings were just done.
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      09-23-2020, 11:19 PM   #4
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If you started having issues right after the new rod bearings and turbos ...... Chances are the issue has something to do with the new rod bearings or turbos.

Are you running a custom tune? If not, what tune are you running? The MHD tunes won't work with aftermarket turbos.

More info need s to figure out what's going on. Can you take some logs??
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      09-23-2020, 11:21 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
If you started having issues right after the new rod bearings and turbos ...... Chances are the issue has something to do with the new rod bearings or turbos.

Are you running a custom tune? If not, what tune are you running? The MHD tunes won't work with aftermarket turbos.

More info need s to figure out what's going on. Can you take some logs??
Like I said I will do logs when it gets dry. I am currently on a base map from V8bait ( Justin Hubenak) who I was referred to by Rob himself.
If I messed up something with the rods... I am so screwed.
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      09-24-2020, 12:10 AM   #6
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Also I'd like to add that I messaged my tuner and he said he doesn't think the 3100 code is related to the other code, being that I could only hit around 8 psi. He thinks I have a boost leak.
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      09-24-2020, 12:24 AM   #7
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Also I don't believe it's knocking at all, there was another post just made by someone who uploaded videos and everyone said it was 100% rod knock. My car sounds nothing like that, it does sound slightly different than it did before. I assumed it was because the engine is breathing more air, but it doesn't sound anything like the way that video does.
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      09-24-2020, 07:10 AM   #8
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I'm assuming that when you did the rod bearings, you torqued everything and reassembled it correctly? How did the old bearings look?
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      09-24-2020, 01:24 PM   #9
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I would look at all the vacuum and boosted connections.
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      09-24-2020, 02:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
I'm assuming that when you did the rod bearings, you torqued everything and reassembled it correctly? How did the old bearings look?
Yes I torqued and used assembly lube and the old bearings were okay but I'm glad I did them, the only thing I didn't do was soak the bolts in oil
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      09-24-2020, 03:16 PM   #11
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Well I'm an idiot, it's rod knock and I did it to myself.

is it worth keeping
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      09-24-2020, 03:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyc0 View Post
Well I'm an idiot, it's rod knock and I did it to myself.

is it worth keeping
How did you do it to yourself? What caused the rod knock? More info!!
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      09-24-2020, 03:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyc0 View Post
Well I'm an idiot, it's rod knock and I did it to myself.

is it worth keeping
How did you do it to yourself? What caused the rod knock? More info!!
What I mean by I did it myself is that the engine was not knocking before I put new bearings into it, now it is. I must have messed something up but I'm not sure what it could have been. I'm thinking I caught it early enough to pay someone to just swap the bearings but I don't know..kind of at a loss at this point.
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      09-24-2020, 04:05 PM   #14
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Just pull the pan off...and see which bearing is lose.
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      09-24-2020, 04:21 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
Just pull the pan off...and see which bearing is lose.
Let's say none of them are lose and one of them spun, what are the chances my engine is toast, car has been driven about 12 miles since I did the install. Also there is a fair amount of metal in my filter, nothing crazy, I'm not sure if this is normal for new bearings tho
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      09-24-2020, 04:58 PM   #16
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Yeah, if you have metal in the filter, you've got some issues. sounds like you might have screwed something up with the bearing install. Did you accidentally use oversized bearings?
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      09-24-2020, 04:59 PM   #17
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This is the perfect example why most people should probably just leave their rod bearings alone, just like you said... The old ones were in good shape.
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      09-24-2020, 05:01 PM   #18
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Yeah, if you have metal in the filter, you've got some issues. sounds like you might have screwed something up with the bearing install. Did you accidentally use oversized bearings?
No I used king std bearings but did not plastigauge..obviously I should have but guess it doesn't really matter anymore. So engine is toast ?
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      09-24-2020, 05:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyc0 View Post
No I used king std bearings but did not plastigauge..obviously I should have but guess it doesn't really matter anymore. So engine is toast ?
I am not sure if anyone can say yay or nay without you tearing it down to see exactly how bad it is. What happened between your car feeling faster than it used to, to having a spun rod and metal in your oil filter within 12 miles though??
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      09-24-2020, 05:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyc0 View Post
Today I finished up my RB two and rod bearing job, and now when I drive it after about 2-3 minutes of driving it will go into limp mode. Codes are boost pressure control deactivation(3100) and knock sensor 2 (not sure the number). For the few minutes the car isn't in limp mode the car feels faster than it used to, and seems to run fine. I would post log but it was raining today. Seem a few people talk about some sort of dme software update that helped. Any ideas ?
I had the knock sensor before, a new sensor fixed it. I think the sensor code indicates that you have a bad sensor...if you had knock you would have a knock code...
Unless a faulty sensor can make knock happen..it's 100% knocking
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      09-24-2020, 05:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyc0 View Post
No I used king std bearings but did not plastigauge..obviously I should have but guess it doesn't really matter anymore. So engine is toast ?
I am not sure if anyone can say yay or nay without you tearing it down to see exactly how bad it is. What happened between your car feeling faster than it used to, to having a spun rod and metal in your oil filter within 12 miles though??
The car did feel faster when it wasn't in limp mode, but it's hard to say what I was hearing because it was raining very hard, when I started it up today a very obvious knock
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      09-24-2020, 06:05 PM   #22
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What's the oil filter look like? If it's full of metal dust/chips/debris.......you would be better off to find a nice used motor to toss in the car.
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