[Anthony199]

Hey everyone!

This afternoon, went to start the car and noticed the instrument cluster was completely off. Not a single light was on, and the dials were at 0. I was outside and there was still light outside, so I did not notice if the other interior buttons are on or not (with the headlight switch off).

I took fuse 58 out, looked fine. Removed the ground from the battery for a few seconds, put it back in, still no success. Replaces fuse 58 (5A) with a new one, no success. Took the battery out, replaced the fuse, put battery in again, no success. I then noticed the all the interior buttons are off and the A/C controls only are on (with headlight switch off). Took the battery out again, waited for a bit (couple minutes), replaced the fuse on more time and noticed now all lights are off, including the AC buttons that were on the entire time even with the car off, just like the push start button.

So I decided to do a hard reset, I took the ground off the battery for at least 30 mins, put it back in, the AC buttons came back (with car off), instrument cluster still off, and the other interior lights are off and do not respond to the headlight switch.

Erased codes and did a new scan, I'm getting codes U112B and U1101, as well as P1407 and P1408. Instrument cluster is still off, AC lights are on (the entire module), and all other interior lights behind the buttons are off.

There is this thread that describes a similar problem, and by removing and reinstalling the instrument cluster, the problem was fixed.

Any suggestions?

[Anthony199]

I've also heard replacing the Electronic Junction Box module (or JBE module) might fix that. It sounds common where people get both the instrument cluster to stop working, while at the same time have climate control lights on at all times with no other light on in throughout the interior.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Anthony199

[2006 325i] This afternoon, went to start the car and noticed the instrument cluster was completely off. Not a single light was on, and the dials were at 0... I took fuse 58 out, looked fine.[Electrical testing with Multimeter is MORE reliable than visual exam ;-)]... I then noticed the all the interior buttons are off and the A/C controls only are on (with headlight switch off). Took the battery out again, waited for a bit (couple minutes), replaced the fuse on more time and noticed now all lights are off, including the AC buttons that were on the entire time even with the car off, just like the push start button...
Erased codes and did a new scan, I'm getting codes U112B and U1101, as well as P1407 and P1408. Instrument cluster is still off, AC lights are on (the entire module), and all other interior lights behind the buttons are off...

The P1407/8 codes are actually significant, as they indicate some type of fault (don't know WHEN without FF Data) with Fuel Level Signals from the two level sensors on either side of tank to the JBE module (beneath the fuse panel). Those signals are in Connector X14271, as opposed to the connector that serves the KOMBI Module, which is X14272. See Attachments to Next Post. Before condemning the ENTIRE JBE Module, I would inspect & clean the two Connectors X14271 & X14272 as described below. Also, if your car has had the Blower Motor Wiring Harness Recall performed prior to these issues, THAT would be significant, as that requires removal of JBE & JB.

A basic Scan Tool CANNOT read fault codes in Modules OTHER than the DME (Engine Control Module). There MIGHT be helpful codes in the KOMBI (Instrument Cluster) Module, IHKA (A/C) Module or JBE (Junction Box Electronics) Module (BUS Hub). If you had INPA or ISTA to read fault codes in ALL ~ 20 Modules of your vehicle that MIGHT be helpful.

However, if you have access to a Multimeter, you can do some simple tests described below, and the ISTA wiring diagrams, with "Line" identification are attached to NEXT post so YOU, Others, can follow along with what is discussed. Nothing fancy needed for a Multimeter; the $7 HFT model works fine. I use it all the time. Note the Manual pdf download on HFT page for those who actually want to learn how to test for Voltage and Continuity to Ground (Ohms-Resistance):
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter

It takes BOTH Power Supply (aka B+, 12V+) AND GROUND to complete a "CIRCUIT" and make your KOMBI light up. So check the GROUND connection between KOMBI Connector and the JBE Module. That is the Brown/Black wire at Pin #18 of KOMBI Connector X11175 (X11175/18) that goes to Pin #9 of JBE Connector X14272 (X14272/9). Intermittent ground connection is the most common cause of intermittent component operation.

Best way (since you already know how to remove KOMBI and its Connector, X11175 ;-) to test electrically:
1) Remove Kombi and its connector;
2) Identify Pins #9 (Red Power Supply) and #18 (Brown/Black Ground);
3) Test for 12V+ at #9 (Terminal 30 Battery Power);
4) Test for Continuity to Ground at #18 with Ignition ON.
5) If you can safely "BackProbe" connector X11175, or even stick a pin in the Brown/Black wire, and apply chassis ground to that wire (Pin #18), see if that gets cluster to "light-up".

First rule of diagnosing MULTIPLE Electrical Issues or issue in two different systems:
IDENTIFY a common connector or component to EACH of the two systems. Here, Connector X14272 at the JBE is such a common connector, for BOTH KOMBI Power Supply (& Ground), and IHKA Power Supply. Had any water in the passenger footwell lately?

Also attached to the Next Post is ISTA ScreenPrint of IHKA Power Supply, and Connector View of X14272, along with component location. Your connectors: X14271 and X14272, on the passenger seat side (vehicle rear, but "face" of JBE as you view it from passenger seat) are reversed, R to L, as compared to later models, so make sure you are dealing with CORRECT connector.

I would remove X14272 (Black Connector), and carefully examine for bent pins, or sockets in connector which are pushed out of place, or enlarged so as to be loose on pin. Also inspect for, and remove, any corrosion of pins & sockets. Cleaning with Electronic Contact Cleaner will help. Just whatever nearest Walmart or similar sells is OK:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-...wt-oz/16817418

Particularly note:
1) Pin #18, Brown/Black Ground for KOMBI;
2) Pin #1, Red/White Power Supply for IHKA;
3) Pins #10 & #12, K-CAN BUS communication wires for IHKA;
4) Pins #29 & #31, K-CAN BUS communication wires for KOMBI.

The K-CAN Bus Orange/Green and Green wires carry communications between Modules, and the JBE is the HUB for that BUS Network. So your issues could be caused by (1) Lack of Power Supply, (2) Lack of proper Ground to complete "Circuit" current flow, or (3) BUS wiring/connector fault.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are ScreenPrints related to 2006 325i KOMBI, JBE & IHKA Module Connectors, per prior post.

George

[Anthony199]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

The P1407/8 codes are actually significant, as they indicate some type of fault (don't know WHEN without FF Data) with Fuel Level Signals from the two level sensors on either side of tank to the JBE module (beneath the fuse panel). Makes a lot of sense! Those signals are in Connector X14271, as opposed to the connector that serves the KOMBI Module, which is X14272. See Attachments to Next Post. Before condemning the ENTIRE JBE Module, I would inspect & clean the two Connectors X14271 & X14272 as described below. That will now be my first step. Will disconnect both connectors that go into the JBE module and inspect them and wherever they go into. Also, if your car has had the Blower Motor Wiring Harness Recall performed prior to these issues, THAT would be significant, as that requires removal of JBE & JB. Yes! I brought the car to BMW to perform the recall in 2019 I believe.

A basic Scan Tool CANNOT read fault codes in Modules OTHER than the DME (Engine Control Module). There MIGHT be helpful codes in the KOMBI (Instrument Cluster) Module, IHKA (A/C) Module or JBE (Junction Box Electronics) Module (BUS Hub). If you had INPA or ISTA to read fault codes in ALL ~ 20 Modules of your vehicle that MIGHT be helpful.

However, if you have access to a Multimeter, you can do some simple tests described below, and the ISTA wiring diagrams, with "Line" identification are attached to NEXT post so YOU, Others, can follow along with what is discussed. Nothing fancy needed for a Multimeter; the $7 HFT model works fine. I use it all the time. Note the Manual pdf download on HFT page for those who actually want to learn how to test for Voltage and Continuity to Ground (Ohms-Resistance):
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter

It takes BOTH Power Supply (aka B+, 12V+) AND GROUND to complete a "CIRCUIT" and make your KOMBI light up. So check the GROUND connection between KOMBI Connector and the JBE Module. That is the Brown/Black wire at Pin #18 of KOMBI Connector X11175 (X11175/18) that goes to Pin #9 of JBE Connector X14272 (X14272/9). Intermittent ground connection is the most common cause of intermittent component operation.

Best way (since you already know how to remove KOMBI and its Connector, X11175 ;-) to test electrically:
1) Remove Kombi and its connector;
2) Identify Pins #9 (Red Power Supply) and #18 (Brown/Black Ground);
3) Test for 12V+ at #9 (Terminal 30 Battery Power);
4) Test for Continuity to Ground at #18 with Ignition ON.
5) If you can safely "BackProbe" connector X11175, or even stick a pin in the Brown/Black wire, and apply chassis ground to that wire (Pin #18), see if that gets cluster to "light-up".

I will do that because of what you're saying after this specific reply, but my gut is telling me this will not fix the issue considering the other problems that the car has right now, like having all climate control lights turn on, and all other lights turning off, and interior lights not responding to the headlight switch. Do you agree?

First rule of diagnosing MULTIPLE Electrical Issues or issue in two different systems:
IDENTIFY a common connector or component to EACH of the two systems. Here, Connector X14272 at the JBE is such a common connector, for BOTH KOMBI Power Supply (& Ground), and IHKA Power Supply. Had any water in the passenger footwell lately?
Actually, when I bought the car (2016), water used to get there after heavy rain... I attempted to seal the plastic trim that sits under the windshield and it solved the problem. Recently in Ohio, the car has snow sit on the bottom of the windshield for days, which LIKELY allowed water fall into creaks when the snow slowly melted... makes a ton of sense.
Also attached to the Next Post is ISTA ScreenPrint of IHKA Power Supply, and Connector View of X14272, along with component location. Your connectors: X14271 and X14272, on the passenger seat side (vehicle rear, but "face" of JBE as you view it from passenger seat) are reversed, R to L, as compared to later models, so make sure you are dealing with CORRECT connector.

I would remove X14272 (Black Connector), and carefully examine for bent pins, or sockets in connector which are pushed out of place, or enlarged so as to be loose on pin. Also inspect for, and remove, any corrosion of pins & sockets. Cleaning with Electronic Contact Cleaner will help. Just whatever nearest Walmart or similar sells is OK:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-...wt-oz/16817418

Particularly note:
1) Pin #18, Brown/Black Ground for KOMBI;
2) Pin #1, Red/White Power Supply for IHKA;
3) Pins #10 & #12, K-CAN BUS communication wires for IHKA;
4) Pins #29 & #31, K-CAN BUS communication wires for KOMBI.

The K-CAN Bus Orange/Green and Green wires carry communications between Modules, and the JBE is the HUB for that BUS Network. So your issues could be caused by (1) Lack of Power Supply, (2) Lack of proper Ground to complete "Circuit" current flow, or (3) BUS wiring/connector fault.


Please let us know what you find,
George

Assuming pins and holes in both connectors X14271 & X14272 look fine, and pins and holes in the KOMBI connector also look fine, I will proceed to inspecting everything you mentioned with the multi-meter. I have almost no electrical knowledge at all, so I am hoping to find an issue before having to learn how to inspect components with a multi-meter.
With the info I just added in this reply, do you come closer to a more probable source of the problem?

Also, assuming I can get a used junction box (mine is a much harder to find since it's an 06, part number 61 35 9364819 according to FCP euro, and 61 35 9364821 according to Real OEM) for $50-$100 or so, would you recommend replacing it without digging more into testing? Can't forget I'll also need to get it coded for my car which is a completely different story.

And finally, you mention power loss, eventhough my battery was replaced in winter of 2019, I won't take it out of the equation considering that I had to replace the starter, don't drive the car as much, light stayed on for some time before noticing (another electrical bug), cold weather, etc... So I can get the battery tested as well.

[Anthony199]

Update:

Waited for a couple days for the snow to melt and temps to go up to 60F. I was planning on removing all the connections of the JBE module, clean them, and install them back in, hoping it would clear up a few things.

Surprise, car was running normally!

I took a video of the inside of the glove box so I could read part numbers, I noticed there was some dust, a dead insect, etc... Meaning the area isn't very well sealed.

I've always had a problem with my ECU fan as well. It was functional but very noisy. Today, when I started the car and the fan turned on for a few seconds, I noticed it started strong, then got in continuously weaker. Just like those robots dying in movies. It happened everytime I turned the car on. I feel like water got in and is the original source of all these problems (original problem in this thread, the ECU fan, and the blower motor bolt rusting).

My game plan is to keep it as is for as long as I can. When I hear the ecu fan not working anymore, and weather gets really hot, I will take the fuse box out, replace the fan, clean all connections, seal the area as much as I can from the engine compartment, and be hopefully done with all these problems.

Thank you George for helping me out immensely on where and what to look for.

[Anthony199]

Update 2:

Went to drive the car for about an hour. Before doing so, I cleared the codes one last time since there was a rough idle. Car started very smoothly and drove off. One hour of driving, no issues.

Parked for about an hour, and started it again. About 2 minutes in, sudden rough engine, running on 5 cylinders. It's not the first time that this happens (been happening for a couple months as well, right when all these other problems started happening), but usually turning the car off and on fixes the problem. I cleared the code, but the problem came back every 2-3 mins of driving.

My JBE module seems to be the source of all of this. I will clean connectors from the harnesses and the JBE module itself to see if it works. If not, I'll replace the JBE with a used one I found off eBay, and have someone repgram it since I don't know how.