[Ramsey]

I drive a 2011 335 M Sport MT.

I am weighing my different options on my next mod and considering a suspension upgrade. I have not tracked my car yet and the stock sport suspension does not bother me.

After doing some research here I am liking the idea of improving handling capabilities by upgrading the suspension. If I am to invest around a $1000 what is the best bang for the buck?

1. Coilovers, shocks or struts? (I am after improving handling, not lowering my car as already sits low with the M Sport suspension)

2. M3 control arms

3. Front and rear anti-roll (sway) bars. I understand that installing the rear sway bars is complicated.

4. M3 subframe bushings?

Thanks!

[MIL.SPEC]

From someone who has upgraded about everything on their other car (Evo), I would suggest the KISS school of thought. The Bilstein B12 kit is a good kit. I'm going to get it for my 335 here in the next month.

You start messing with coilovers, you get into a whole new universe of stuff that needs to get upgraded...camber plates, bushings, rebuilding shocks...etc.

Not to mention, most of the lower level priced coilovers are garbage. If you put them on a shock dyno, you wouldn't like what you saw. I have a remote reservoir setup on my Evo. It handles fantastic. But unless you plan on seriously autocrossing or tracking your car, just going with something simple like the Bilsteins is probably the "best" choice. Otherwise, you start playing Russian Roulette with the slippery slope of car modifications.

Final reco:

Buy Bilstein B12 kit. http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-22...n-package.aspx

Get new suspension components for install: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...its/ES2622813/

Buy Whiteline rear subframe insert kit: http://www.whitelinesuspensionparts....FUeBfgodHmYAbg

Then see how you like everything. Of course do more research if you want, but that is a good starting point for a DD.

[avocet]

Bilstein hd's with sport springs is a great combo.
I did shocks/struts, drop hats, m3 arms and bushings, and sways all within a few days. Totally transformed. Athough I did go though a few rear sways to find the right balance.
I wasn't going for a lowered look, so coilovers were not considered. I think the bilstein valving is going to rival anything with a street oriented spring rate(sport springs), and the M3's arms gave a very, very positive feel to the steering. Combined with a Hotchkis front sway I have rightnow turn in, and have found the effects of the rear H&R sway positive. I think with a 335 you may have different results with a rear sway. M3 sub bushes, in my opinion are a must do. And while there doing the sway is easy. Are you a DIY'er? Then it's not that hard. You can do a sway with just undoing the 4 bolts holding the sub in and creative tilting with two jacks.

For a grand and you are a DIY'er, I would say Bilsteins and M3 bushings and drop hats to start. The drop hats are a nice affordable ~1/2"front end drop which gives the stance a little zest!

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Ramsey

I drive a 2011 335 M Sport MT.

I am weighing my different options on my next mod and considering a suspension upgrade. I have not tracked my car yet and the stock sport suspension does not bother me.

Are you planning to track your car? And if so how far are you wanting to take it? For example just the occasional trackday or are you looking to advance through run groups to time trials, amateur racing, etc?

[cvc 22349a]

Michelin PSS tires
Good post by mil.spec

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by cvc 22349a

Michelin PSS tires
Good post by mil.spec

[cdgatti]

Mil.spec hit it on the head. B12 and M3 arms and see if you need anything more after that.

[Kid Red]

Originally Posted by MIL.SPEC

From someone who has upgraded about everything on their other car (Evo), I would suggest the KISS school of thought. The Bilstein B12 kit is a good kit. I'm going to get it for my 335 here in the next month.

You start messing with coilovers, you get into a whole new universe of stuff that needs to get upgraded...camber plates, bushings, rebuilding shocks...etc.

Not to mention, most of the lower level priced coilovers are garbage. If you put them on a shock dyno, you wouldn't like what you saw. I have a remote reservoir setup on my Evo. It handles fantastic. But unless you plan on seriously autocrossing or tracking your car, just going with something simple like the Bilsteins is probably the "best" choice. Otherwise, you start playing Russian Roulette with the slippery slope of car modifications.

Final reco:

Buy Bilstein B12 kit. http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-22...n-package.aspx

Get new suspension components for install: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...its/ES2622813/

Buy Whiteline rear subframe insert kit: http://www.whitelinesuspensionparts....FUeBfgodHmYAbg

Then see how you like everything. Of course do more research if you want, but that is a good starting point for a DD.

Thanks. What would step 2 be after doing the above?

[gigabyte]

for me, the biggest improvement in handling came from ditching the run flats and adding more negative camber up front with the dinan fixed camber plates.

[Fundguy1]

I agree. I prefer standing waiting for a tow truck, twice in 6 yrs, then having run flats.

[avocet]

Keep in mine the b6(HD),b8(sport) and b12(coilover) use the same internals and have the same damping.
and the eibach prokit spring that are part of the b12 kit has essentially the same spring rate as bmw sport springs.

[TheSt|G]

Real tires
Subframe bushings
Proper struts
M3 control arms.

In that order.

[cypis007]

Go for Bilstein B8 - shocks only. They are perfect for factory drop of M Sport and transform car like anything else. I have M3 Rear subframe bushings, M3 front control arms, M3 front sway bar and Bilsteins made largest difference from all of them.

Now I feel more more confident at 200 km/h than before at 150 km/h.
IMHO M sport shocks are not damping enough.

[MIL.SPEC]

Originally Posted by Kid Red

Thanks. What would step 2 be after doing the above?

Well, I am still learning this platform as I have only had my 335 for about 6 months. However, I recommended the Whiteline inserts over the M3 rear subframe bushings because the inserts are easy to do, and from what I remember (unless you're doing the labor yourself), the M3 bushings install with parts is ~$1,000.

And like other people say, real tires are a must with upgraded suspension. People love the Michelin PSS here, it seems to be the forum DD tire of choice. I am going with the Hankook RS-3's because that is the best all-around tire I've found. Love them on the Evo. Looking forward to them on the 335. I will say I do have PS-2's on the 335 at the moment, and they're a pretty good tire (although it's not like I've pushed the e92 with that stupid, super-floaty rear subframe moving around out back). Anywho...

You can do the M3 control arms like people recommend. But then you may run the danger of wanting to do more. I say that because when I was doing the Evo, I was learning about all the separate bushings and what started out as a simple idea ended up with me replacing EVERY SINGLE BUSHING on the car. If it wasn't an upgraded poly bushing, it was making sure the OEM spherical bushings were new with no play.

Now, all this advice/opinion is caveated with how much of a DIY person you are. Are you going to pay someone to do this? Or are you going to go down to Harbor Freight, buy every tool you need including presses and get it done yourself?

What I put in my original post is my "get it and forget it" setup. Because that should suit most tastes. If you end up doing more, you may end up with a set of remote reservoir Motons on your car that need to be rebuilt every 20,000 miles. Don't ask me how I know

[andrey_gta]

Rear //M suspension arms are quite good along side new shocks

[cdgatti]

Originally Posted by Kid Red

Thanks. What would step 2 be after doing the above?

Stage 2??? Probably high performance driving lessons! The car will be better than 99.9% of the drivers out there.

[Ramsey]

Originally Posted by MIL.SPEC

Well, I am still learning this platform as I have only had my 335 for about 6 months. However, I recommended the Whiteline inserts over the M3 rear subframe bushings because the inserts are easy to do, and from what I remember (unless you're doing the labor yourself), the M3 bushings install with parts is ~$1,000.

And like other people say, real tires are a must with upgraded suspension. People love the Michelin PSS here, it seems to be the forum DD tire of choice. I am going with the Hankook RS-3's because that is the best all-around tire I've found. Love them on the Evo. Looking forward to them on the 335. I will say I do have PS-2's on the 335 at the moment, and they're a pretty good tire (although it's not like I've pushed the e92 with that stupid, super-floaty rear subframe moving around out back). Anywho...

You can do the M3 control arms like people recommend. But then you may run the danger of wanting to do more. I say that because when I was doing the Evo, I was learning about all the separate bushings and what started out as a simple idea ended up with me replacing EVERY SINGLE BUSHING on the car. If it wasn't an upgraded poly bushing, it was making sure the OEM spherical bushings were new with no play.

Now, all this advice/opinion is caveated with how much of a DIY person you are. Are you going to pay someone to do this? Or are you going to go down to Harbor Freight, buy every tool you need including presses and get it done yourself?

What I put in my original post is my "get it and forget it" setup. Because that should suit most tastes. If you end up doing more, you may end up with a set of remote reservoir Motons on your car that need to be rebuilt every 20,000 miles. Don't ask me how I know

Excellent feedback, thank you! I agree that tires is the most basic and where I need to start, Blistien shocks next, M3 arms third. Unfortunately I am putting on my 17" winter setup this weekend, snow is around the corner up here.

I believe that my car is very well planted as is with the factory set up, I have taken it up to 125 MPH and it is excellent. Of course this is a in straight line and not in a competitive track environment.

I guess I will only know what I missing once I start with the suspension upgrades you guys are proposing.

Thank you for the great suggestions from everyone.

[robc1976]

Coil-overs
Tires
Front M3 bits
Powerflex subframe bushings full replacements (not inserts)
LSD
Rear M3 bits

[chris82]

I'd do Tires, struts, subframe bushings in that order. Subframe bushings would be great but they are expensive which is the only real reason to ponder that modification, especially if the car won't be tracked. On track, I'd probably get them done before everything else; even tires

[MIL.SPEC]

Originally Posted by robc1976

Coil-overs
Tires
Front M3 bits
Powerflex subframe bushings full replacements (not inserts)
LSD
Rear M3 bits

His original post was regarding upgrades within a $1,000 budget. What you are recommending is

Did you even read the thread?

Originally Posted by Chrisar82

Subframe bushings would be great but they are expensive which is the only real reason to ponder that modification, especially if the car won't be tracked.

This is why I recommended the Whiteline inserts. It's like an hour job and the bushings are like $50. It's a cheap, relatively simple fix that makes the rear end not skate around or oscillate back and forth.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by MIL.SPEC

His original post was regarding upgrades within a $1,000 budget. What you are recommending is

Did you even read the thread?




This is why I recommended the Whiteline inserts. It's like an hour job and the bushings are like $50. It's a cheap, relatively simple fix that makes the rear end not skate around or oscillate back and forth.

yes I did, I think I realized it was more than $1,000....giving him options after the budget is hit which we all know really doesn't matter

P.S inserts are a joke abd your fooling yourself if you think they make much difference. I prefer to do things right the 1st time, I do see why you suggested them....to stay in budget.

[justpete]

Racing brake fluid and a few weekend HPDEs will show how much the driver needs improving before the car does (that's true for anyone who hasn't tracked a car before, nothing personal). Money much better spent imho. BTW, it's impossible to know if the car is well planted until it's driven at speed through corners on a track. Stable at 125 is pretty much within the scope of any relatively new factory stock bimmer I think. Doesn't really indicate how it'll play on the track though but it does indicate the rolling chassis isn't grossly degraded or damaged, that's a good thing anyway.