[narmon]

Hi Folks,Hi Folks,

Just purchased an e90 330i with only 50k miles the other day and i've got a few issues with it I want to take care of now. Just purchased an e90 330i with only 50k miles the other day and i've got a few issues with it I want to take care of now.

To cut to the chase...

Rear passenger window is giving me a hard time. It functions perfectly fine, makes no awkward noises, but the second it goes down all the way it wont come back up unless I reset the window. I have reset the window multiple times and it works perfectly fine when I reset it, but when it goes back down below the horizon it doesnt come up. I dont know how this could be the window regulator because if it was the regulator it would be giving me the issue whether I reset it or not. It has to do with the anti-trap function. And the previous owner said he replaced the regulator (which i'm not too sure about but I'll take his word for now). Weird right?


Second, red brake light is on. I know why, the rear brake sensor is bad. I bought a new sensor and tried to replace it only to realize that i'll have to take apart the entire brake assembly, so i thought, I might as well buy new rear brakes along with it. I read something about doing the rear brakes will cause issues in the computer so they recommend doing the entire brakes at the same time? I'm not too sure. BMW CPO replaced the front brakes at about 40k miles, so I feel like the fronts dont really need to be replaced. Also, I should probably replace the rotors about now too. What cheap rotors do you guys recommend? I'm not about spending tons of money on super cool "drilled and slotted" rotors for the looks.

Third, another odd BMW issue that you will never see in any other cars. I have premium audio (L7) and the headunit works but the display doesnt work properly. I thought the display was bad and the crystals for the lcd were bad, because they were looking funky. But then one day out of the blue it worked PERFECTLY. Then it stopped and half-assed the display again. What is this? It cant be a broken LCD because it decided to work for one whole day.


Other than that, I love the car. I want a better suspension though and I need to replace the center channel and the front left tweeter (already took the center channel out, it was bothering me so bad, the tweeter is bothering me too now but i need that).

Oh and one random question. I have Cold weather, premium, L7 audio packages. Cold weather package includes headlight washers. My bumper doesnt have holes for them...? I thought it was not optional and cold weather package always has the headlight washers.

I appreciate all the information you guys and gals can give me. Thank you.

[Three_thirty_I]

Firstly congrats on your purchase!

Not sure about the window issue, someone will likely have some advice or a DIY to suggest.

With regards to the brakes, you can replace the brake wear sensors without too much having to be pulled apart. In fact, all you need to do for the rear is jack the car up, remove the wheel and it's just a case of unclipping the sensor from the brake pad and then removing from the fasteners and eventually where it is plugged in. Then just replace with a new one. Now if the sensor has failed causing this error then that's all you need to do, but obviously if it has triggered and the pads are worn, then you will need to do the brakes. The OEM disks and pads on my car are ATE, so can get them for a decent price from most parts places. Don't skimp on brakes, but this does not mean having to pay insane money either. Then it's just a case of resetting the service indicator for the rear brakes - no need to do the front if they are still fine.

Other issues also best for others to add their thoughts...

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by narmon

...Oh and one random question. I have Cold weather, premium, L7 audio packages. Cold weather package includes headlight washers. My bumper doesnt have holes for them...? I thought it was not optional and cold weather package always has the headlight washers.

Seems that they got eliminated in one of the cost-cutting rounds. I believe that certain bumper/line/whatever combos no longer have them - there's a thread around somewhere.

They aren't required in the US/CA as they are in EU.

[rrpeinha]

Congrats on the car, sounds great overall. But to try and help you out with your issues:

1. The window system is somewhat complex, involving the CAS, FRM, and JBE modules; so tracking down an "electrical" issue, rather than a purely mechanical one, like a regulator, can be a little harder. Although, since the window is not completely non-functional, I think that helps rule out any peripheral electrical glitches. Based on this, like you, I would think that the problem most likely involves the anti-trapping.
   
   Just to make sure, what procedure are you using to reinitialize the windows? There is actually a procedure to delete the old initialization and another to store the new parameters.
   
   If you are, in fact, using the correct initialization procedure, the following may help isolate and confirm the anti-trapping function. The anti-trapping function uses two hall sensors built into the motor to determine appropriate window operation. If either is defective, the system could be evaluating a false anti-trap signal. There is a "panic mode" for the window which will close the window with maximum force, overriding any anti-trapping signal or thermal protection signal. I posted an attachment at the end, the panic mode procedure is outlined on the bottom of page 5 of that pdf.
   
   If the window then closes using this procedure you can assume that the problem does in fact lie within the anti-trap function (as long as the window really was initialized correctly) . The hall sensors for this function are not individually replaceable; they are built into the motor, and so the whole motor has to be replaced (the motor, however, can be removed from the regulator). I know regulator problems are fairly common, but I'm not sure about the window motors, but at least this may point you further in the right direction.
   
   
2. The brake pad wear sensor can be taken out without removing the pads or caliper. If my memory is correct, the sensor just pulls out; however, you'll still have to remove the clips, etc. retaining the wiring up to the plug above the wheel-well trim.
   
   
3. As you can still hear music, the problem is definitely within the HU itself. The LCD is connected to the circuit board of the HU by two ribbon-style cables. If those are loose, dirty, etc. then the LCD may function sporadically. You could try and take the HU out, take it apart, and inspect it to try and figure out whats going on. The only way I can tell you to definitively fix the problem is swap the HU out. The HU is not security coded or anything, however each HU is coded for the type of system you have (stereo, hifi, L7 top hifi). So as long as the HU comes from another car with L7 (standard for 06 330 or 07-08 335) then its essentially plug and play.

The cold weather package (option code ZCW) for all RWD e90 Sedans was composed of 3 components. Heated Seats (option code 494), Fold-Down Rear Seats (option code 465), and Headlight Washers (option code 502). Period. Heated Seats and Fold-Down Rear Seats were available as stand-alone options, but the headlight washers weren't. So, if your bumper doesn't have the little rectangular covers just below the headlights, which cover the washers, then either your bumper has been replaced; or more likely, doesn't actually have the Cold Weather Package, but rather simply has heated seats and/or the fold-down rear seats w/ ski bag as individual options. Either way, I find the Heated Seats and Fold-Down Rear Seats the best components, and could honestly live without my washers and never miss them.

Hope this helps and good luck with everything.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by rrpeinha

Congrats on the car, sounds great overall. But to try and help you out with your issues:

1. The window system is somewhat complex, involving the CAS, FRM, and JBE modules; so tracking down an "electrical" issue, rather than a purely mechanical one, like a regulator, can be a little harder. Although, since the window is not completely non-functional, I think that helps rule out any peripheral electrical glitches. Based on this, like you, I would think that the problem most likely involves the anti-trapping.
   
   Just to make sure, what procedure are you using to reinitialize the windows? There is actually a procedure to delete the old initialization and another to store the new parameters.
   
   If you are, in fact, using the correct initialization procedure, the following may help isolate and confirm the anti-trapping function. The anti-trapping function uses two hall sensors built into the motor to determine appropriate window operation. If either is defective, the system could be evaluating a false anti-trap signal. There is a "panic mode" for the window which will close the window with maximum force, overriding any anti-trapping signal or thermal protection signal. I posted an attachment at the end, the panic mode procedure is outlined on the bottom of page 5 of that pdf.
   
   If the window then closes using this procedure you can assume that the problem does in fact lie within the anti-trap function (as long as the window really was initialized correctly) . The hall sensors for this function are not individually replaceable; they are built into the motor, and so the whole motor has to be replaced (the motor, however, can be removed from the regulator). I know regulator problems are fairly common, but I'm not sure about the window motors, but at least this may point you further in the right direction.
   
   
2. The brake pad wear sensor can be taken out without removing the pads or caliper. If my memory is correct, the sensor just pulls out; however, you'll still have to remove the clips, etc. retaining the wiring up to the plug above the wheel-well trim.
   
   
3. As you can still hear music, the problem is definitely within the HU itself. The LCD is connected to the circuit board of the HU by two ribbon-style cables. If those are loose, dirty, etc. then the LCD may function sporadically. You could try and take the HU out, take it apart, and inspect it to try and figure out whats going on. The only way I can tell you to definitively fix the problem is swap the HU out. The HU is not security coded or anything, however each HU is coded for the type of system you have (stereo, hifi, L7 top hifi). So as long as the HU comes from another car with L7 (standard for 06 330 or 07-08 335) then its essentially plug and play.

The cold weather package (option code ZCW) for all RWD e90 Sedans was composed of 3 components. Heated Seats (option code 494), Fold-Down Rear Seats (option code 465), and Headlight Washers (option code 502). Period. Heated Seats and Fold-Down Rear Seats were available as stand-alone options, but the headlight washers weren't. So, if your bumper doesn't have the little rectangular covers just below the headlights, which cover the washers, then either your bumper has been replaced; or more likely, doesn't actually have the Cold Weather Package, but rather simply has heated seats and/or the fold-down rear seats w/ ski bag as individual options. Either way, I find the Heated Seats and Fold-Down Rear Seats the best components, and could honestly live without my washers and never miss them.

Hope this helps and good luck with everything.

Fantastic reply!!!

BTW, love your 850i!!!

[narmon]

Originally Posted by rrpeinha

Congrats on the car, sounds great overall. But to try and help you out with your issues:

1. The window system is somewhat complex, involving the CAS, FRM, and JBE modules; so tracking down an "electrical" issue, rather than a purely mechanical one, like a regulator, can be a little harder. Although, since the window is not completely non-functional, I think that helps rule out any peripheral electrical glitches. Based on this, like you, I would think that the problem most likely involves the anti-trapping.
   
   Just to make sure, what procedure are you using to reinitialize the windows? There is actually a procedure to delete the old initialization and another to store the new parameters.
   
   If you are, in fact, using the correct initialization procedure, the following may help isolate and confirm the anti-trapping function. The anti-trapping function uses two hall sensors built into the motor to determine appropriate window operation. If either is defective, the system could be evaluating a false anti-trap signal. There is a "panic mode" for the window which will close the window with maximum force, overriding any anti-trapping signal or thermal protection signal. I posted an attachment at the end, the panic mode procedure is outlined on the bottom of page 5 of that pdf.
   
   If the window then closes using this procedure you can assume that the problem does in fact lie within the anti-trap function (as long as the window really was initialized correctly) . The hall sensors for this function are not individually replaceable; they are built into the motor, and so the whole motor has to be replaced (the motor, however, can be removed from the regulator). I know regulator problems are fairly common, but I'm not sure about the window motors, but at least this may point you further in the right direction.
   
   
2. The brake pad wear sensor can be taken out without removing the pads or caliper. If my memory is correct, the sensor just pulls out; however, you'll still have to remove the clips, etc. retaining the wiring up to the plug above the wheel-well trim.
   
   
3. As you can still hear music, the problem is definitely within the HU itself. The LCD is connected to the circuit board of the HU by two ribbon-style cables. If those are loose, dirty, etc. then the LCD may function sporadically. You could try and take the HU out, take it apart, and inspect it to try and figure out whats going on. The only way I can tell you to definitively fix the problem is swap the HU out. The HU is not security coded or anything, however each HU is coded for the type of system you have (stereo, hifi, L7 top hifi). So as long as the HU comes from another car with L7 (standard for 06 330 or 07-08 335) then its essentially plug and play.

The cold weather package (option code ZCW) for all RWD e90 Sedans was composed of 3 components. Heated Seats (option code 494), Fold-Down Rear Seats (option code 465), and Headlight Washers (option code 502). Period. Heated Seats and Fold-Down Rear Seats were available as stand-alone options, but the headlight washers weren't. So, if your bumper doesn't have the little rectangular covers just below the headlights, which cover the washers, then either your bumper has been replaced; or more likely, doesn't actually have the Cold Weather Package, but rather simply has heated seats and/or the fold-down rear seats w/ ski bag as individual options. Either way, I find the Heated Seats and Fold-Down Rear Seats the best components, and could honestly live without my washers and never miss them.

Hope this helps and good luck with everything.

Thank you so much for this reply!

1. I'll look more into this "panic mode' and whatnot. The procedure I used to reinitialize the window was to close all the windows, sit in the back passenger, press the window down and hold it for 17 seconds till I hear the Beep and indicator for the window, then keep pressing the window till it goes up all the way and hold it up for 17 more seconds. I wonder if anyone with the BMW software can plug into my computer and read all the specifics of any issues this car has?

2. I tried this, I took out the old brake sensor and when I tried to put the new one back in it just would not go. I looked at the sensors and it looked like the old one was shaved down because it was worn (and that mustve triggered the sensor) and so when I tried to push the new one in there was a piece blocking it. So I thought i'd have to take off the assembly, push the new wire in, then put everything over it.

3. I'll take this apart and see what I can do, I hope its as easy as just cleaning the assembly. I wonder how much people sell used HU's for?

And you're right, I dont have cold weather package I just have heated seats.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by narmon

Thank you so much for this reply!

1. I'll look more into this "panic mode' and whatnot. The procedure I used to reinitialize the window was to close all the windows, sit in the back passenger, press the window down and hold it for 17 seconds till I hear the Beep and indicator for the window, then keep pressing the window till it goes up all the way and hold it up for 17 more seconds. I wonder if anyone with the BMW software can plug into my computer and read all the specifics of any issues this car has?

2. I tried this, I took out the old brake sensor and when I tried to put the new one back in it just would not go. I looked at the sensors and it looked like the old one was shaved down because it was worn (and that mustve triggered the sensor) and so when I tried to push the new one in there was a piece blocking it. So I thought i'd have to take off the assembly, push the new wire in, then put everything over it.

3. I'll take this apart and see what I can do, I hope its as easy as just cleaning the assembly. I wonder how much people sell used HU's for?

And you're right, I dont have cold weather package I just have heated seats.

The brake pad life warning system works as follows: The front and rear brake systems are monitored separately. The CBS will show the approximate mileage remaining of the pads for each system separately. Because the E90 has dynamic braking built into the software, in most cases all four brakes wear pretty evenly and come due for pad changes nearly at the same mileage. If the car see a lot of hard driving and the dynamic stability control comes into play, the brakes can wear unevenly.

As for the sensors, they are two-stage (they have two loops of wire in the plastic head). This means the CBS has an algorithm that is based on expected wear patterns for how the car is driven (i.e. a lot of highway miles over a short time period for example) and will estimate the life of the pads, but once the 1st stage of the wear sensor is triggered (the outer loop of wire in the sensor breaks from contact with the rotor face) then the computer has a better data point as to when the pads will be worn out and adjusts the predicted mileage accordingly. Once the 2nd loop of wire is triggered, the brake pad wear indicator comes on and stays on until you replace the pads and sensor.

My car is driven extremely consistently (which is good for the algorithm) I use it just to commute to work during the week and hardly drive it on the weekends. I've replaced my brakes twice (all four) and both times the front and rears wore out within a few thousand miles of each other.

I think your case you actually need to replace the rear brakes. The sensor is not defective (it's too simple to break) but actually reporting worn out pads. You'll think the pads sill have life in them as they will have several MM of material left on the backing plate, but they are beyond BMW spec. The reason the new sensor would not fit back in is the distance between the pad and the rotor was too short because the old sensor had worn down and was spent.

[rrpeinha]

Fantastic reply!!!

BTW, love your 850i!!!

Thanks. My dad bought it new and passed it on to me as a gift for college graduation. I'd wanted that car since I turned 16.

1. I'll look more into this "panic mode' and whatnot. The procedure I used to reinitialize the window was to close all the windows, sit in the back passenger, press the window down and hold it for 17 seconds till I hear the Beep and indicator for the window, then keep pressing the window till it goes up all the way and hold it up for 17 more seconds. I wonder if anyone with the BMW software can plug into my computer and read all the specifics of any issues this car has?

Don't know if it will make a difference in your problem, but try the delete/re-initialize procedure given here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=11 This is the procedure also given in the Bentley manual and the one I was able to get to work for mine.

2. I tried this, I took out the old brake sensor and when I tried to put the new one back in it just would not go. I looked at the sensors and it looked like the old one was shaved down because it was worn (and that mustve triggered the sensor) and so when I tried to push the new one in there was a piece blocking it. So I thought i'd have to take off the assembly, push the new wire in, then put everything over it.

Agree 100% with Efthreeoh, he's right. Especially now knowing the old sensor was worn down. Since the pads aren't soft asbestos anymore it's probably not a bad idea to check the rotors like you said. If you decide to change them, I don't know what price range your looking for, but www.RMEuropean.com sells the Genuine BMW rotors - but there $125 each (free shipping at least); or www.rockauto.com sells a rotor & pad kit that also comes with a new wear sensor.

3. I'll take this apart and see what I can do, I hope its as easy as just cleaning the assembly. I wonder how much people sell used HU's for?

My brother had a similar problem on his 328. Just be careful with the sockets that the LCD plugs into, they're really fragile. You can buy just the LCD screen, but it's more expensive than a used HU. If you wind up having to swap out the HU and can't find one on here, check www.car-part.com. I think the ones on ebay are ridiculously overpriced.

[Efthreeoh]

Another reason the new senor could not possibly fit back in (but I don't think it is the case here) is usually the small u-shaped metal spring clip that retains the sensor head on the pad cutout stays in the cutout and needs to be removed before the new sensor will go in. But this would only be the case if you are putting in a new sensor in a barely-worn pad where the sensor has not yet contacted the rotor face and in not yet begun the wear.

[narmon]

So this is what the exhaust rattle was...




This piece was rattling on TOP of the exhaust over there. Not sure how it got up there? I dont know how the exhaust setup is since i've never seen it till now but I thought this would be a bracket to hold the exhaust from UNDER into the chassis.


I just looked at the front pads and they are FULL. So i'm just gonna look for rear rotors and pads and might even just disable the sensor the next time it goes off since I own a new sensor now (I saw a DIY on how to disable the rear sensor by wiring them together).

I need to find a used HU now. For some reason I feel like the HU will still be expensive used!

And thank you all for all the posts. I'm gonna keep you updated, i'll look into the deleting old initalization post. But I did the reinitialization technique as you posted I just never removed the old one. The post did say to put all the windows down (i.e. remove initialization of all four windows?)