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      12-01-2015, 05:41 AM   #1
JibbaJabber
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N57 EGR valve - cam drive "dried out"

Chaps,

Unfortunately, diagnostics show I have a stuck EGR valve. KM97 mentioned that it could be a "dried out" lube issue with the cam drive inside the valve, instead of the usual excessive carbon build up issue. If this is the case, it should be an easy check and fix.

Has anyone done this?

How easy is it get cap and connector off (and back on)? Can components fall out? And what lube do you suggest??

Recap: N57 EGR valve is an electronic liquid cooled valve.

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      12-02-2015, 09:49 PM   #2
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      06-06-2016, 05:42 AM   #3
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I'll give this a bump too as I have the EML light on for the EGR

Would rather have a go at cleaning/lubricating the valve first before replacing it, has anyone successfully done it and can give a bit of advice?
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      06-06-2016, 05:55 AM   #4
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If it's the same style EGR as it's little brother the N47 then it should be very easy to remove. Unplug the connector and undo the 2 smalls bolts and it pulls out easily.

The valve itself isn't liquid cooled - but the exhaust gases going through it are you won't need to touch any plumbing either
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      06-06-2016, 09:35 AM   #5
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I think some of the N47 are the same style but the valve certainly seems to have a couple of coolant lines running to it from the cooler-



I thought it looked like the coolant line would need to be removed to get it off? Would be good if it came off without doing that though!
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      06-06-2016, 11:40 AM   #6
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I had mine replaced a couple of weeks ago, was making the engine cut out on every single cold start, dangerous stuff. Would have DIY'd it but didn't want to deal with the coolant lines and was getting other stuff done anyway.
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      06-06-2016, 12:57 PM   #7
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Oh that is different from the n47 one, I thought they were the same, apologies.

If the coolant lines are flexible you might be able to get away with not disconnecting them. I managed this on a ford endura tdci engine once.
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      06-06-2016, 01:48 PM   #8
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Yeah definitely coolant lines had a look under the bonnet tonight and they look pretty tight in there. Definitely look like they need to come out to remove the valve too.

Being a tight scotsman I'd like to have a go at cleaning the valve first before replacing it but would like to know if anyone has done it successfully?

Last edited by Wallace330d; 06-06-2016 at 01:59 PM..
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      06-12-2016, 09:43 AM   #9
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Just though I'd give an update on this; I popped the plastic cap off the egr actuator (I say popped but it took a fair effort with a pry bar to get it off!) then cleaned the cam lobe and bearing with some brake cleaner and worked it back and forward - it was initially sticky. I then used some red rubber grease on the lobe and popped it back together, after a drive the fault code has now cleared.

Nice easy and free fix!

This is the offending lobe which needs greased:

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      06-12-2016, 11:07 AM   #10
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Excellent
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      06-13-2016, 05:26 AM   #11
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Good stuff,no need for replacement when a but if grease sorts out!
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      06-14-2016, 04:39 AM   #12
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I had hoped so... but the EML is back on already!
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      06-14-2016, 04:55 AM   #13
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What is red rubber grease? Have you tried lithium grease?
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      06-14-2016, 08:59 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallace330d View Post
I had hoped so... but the EML is back on already!
Oh dear,EGR again?whats the codes/fault?
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      06-15-2016, 04:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bishbosh View Post
What is red rubber grease? Have you tried lithium grease?
It's the type used in brake calipers, works well there but I think it might not be suitable for the higher temps around the EGR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KM79 View Post
Oh dear,EGR again?whats the codes/fault?
I'm only assuming it is that again, I don't have a code reader, too much of a coincidence to not be it though!

I'll pull the cover off again and see if any grease is still there, then try another type, I've got a high temp metal assembly paste that should work...
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      06-15-2016, 01:35 PM   #16
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Recheck if it's sticking,as I said to you earlier.If it continues to do so I would recommend replacement.Buuuut get the fault codes checked just in case it's something else..
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      11-04-2017, 10:46 AM   #17
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thread revival!
anyone else done this? how did you get the plastic cover off, seems to have two tabs either side, i tried prying as hard as i dared without wanting to snap the cover....
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      11-05-2017, 05:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy198712 View Post
thread revival!
anyone else done this? how did you get the plastic cover off, seems to have two tabs either side, i tried prying as hard as i dared without wanting to snap the cover....
That part should not have grease on it. The grease will burn off and cause more problems. This has just been confirmed to me by a BMW head mechanic a couple of weeks ago (look at cold start rough idle thread).
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      11-06-2017, 05:48 AM   #19
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Good to know!
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      01-31-2018, 01:16 PM   #20
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cleaned my shaft below that cam as that was causing the sticking issue and its code free.... will keep an eye on the car and scan it regularly but been a week so far and normally came back on after every drive.
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      03-01-2018, 11:34 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChawenHalo View Post
That part should not have grease on it. The grease will burn off and cause more problems. This has just been confirmed to me by a BMW head mechanic a couple of weeks ago (look at cold start rough idle thread).
i just brought a new one and the shaft and cam come with a white grease on it...... hard to tel what it is, maybe silicone or lithium maybe?
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      03-02-2018, 12:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy198712 View Post
i just brought a new one and the shaft and cam come with a white grease on it...... hard to tel what it is, maybe silicone or lithium maybe?
Yes thats it exactly, it "dry grease" or something. The muppets that cleaned mine shove a whole load of greeny grease shit which just screws it up. (same muppets that fitted M57 glowplugs on my N57 engine (which are 3cm too short)
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