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      05-15-2020, 02:29 AM   #1
Mrjonathons
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Question NEED QUICK OPINION (watch 9sec video)—NO START e90–

I’ll keep this short and sweet...I have a 2007 BMW 328i e90. Watch & listen to the video I posted below that shows the no-start problem I am having.

I’m thinking its bad spark plugs. What are your thoughts? Keep it short and sweet. What’s your best guess?

Here’s the video...



https://youtu.be/EdKmH8wVTVs


Thanks for the help!
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      05-15-2020, 03:14 AM   #2
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Does anyone else think that starter sounds incredibly odd?

I'm not convinced it's plugs. How did the issue come about?
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      05-15-2020, 03:57 AM   #3
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+1

Any symptoms before, or just didn't start one day? Without any further information, I'd say put it on charge using a decent charger, and read the codes...
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      05-15-2020, 08:00 AM   #4
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read the codes.

I'd start with unplugging the ESS.
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      05-15-2020, 09:31 AM   #5
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Also, (hopefully) unrelated to the no start condition, I would run a compression test. It sounds like one of the cylinders has lower compression, unless one of the cylinders actually having some combustion happen.
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      05-15-2020, 05:56 PM   #6
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So here’s the backstory. I bought the car with no keys, non-running, and just as a complete gamble for $300.

The vehicle doesn’t look to be in too bad of shape. First thing I did was drain and replace old fluids because I was told by previous owner that the vehicle had been sitting for over a year because they lost the only key and ended up buying a larger more family-friendly vehicle to drive. I decided I would buy a OEM replacement Bosch starter in the event that it was going to need a new starter (I could not pass up a good deal either...$30 for oem Bosch starter for this exact vehicle). So you’re probably wondering what I did about the no-key situation? Well the first thing I had opted to do was higher a expensive locksmith to come out and re-key the car and program a new fob for the vehicle. At the time I had no CAS relay Plugged into The fuse panel so obviously the key that the guy programmed Made the vehicle go haywire and like all the check engine lights went on and the wiper blades wouldn’t shut off etc. We had an argument about the fact that I was having a hard time getting myself to pay a locksmith $300 to make a key that didn’t do shit for my vehicle but unlock the doors. So we eventually made a deal that Lowered the price to 150. I started doing my research and realized that I just wasted $150 on the key. So I went onto eBay and found a Package deal that contain two keys that were programmed to the CAS module and the DME. All of these were from a vehicle exactly the same year make and model engine type and everything. Basically plug and play situation. So I’m pretty sure I fixed that issue. So now that I have a key that will turn the vehicle on, I go to start it and that is the sound I get that you hear in the video. Keep in mind that the only thing that I have not yet changed the spark plugs.

The battery connections in the trunk Seem to not ever be able to tighten up properly, And I am suspecting that the IBS sensor may be bad. The vehicle is at my ranch so the next step I’m gonna do is change out the spark plugs two brand new NGK Ix iridium ones. I just was wanting an opinion from anybody as to maybe what else could possibly causing the no-start. Because to me it sounds like There’s just nothing firing in the cylinders as I’m trying to start it.
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      05-15-2020, 06:00 PM   #7
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Also the vehicle has a brand new battery I bought from AutoZone.
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      05-15-2020, 06:16 PM   #8
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You need to get yourself set up with a kdcan cable and inpa. This will take a little learning, but save so much frustration and $ in the long run!
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      05-15-2020, 09:39 PM   #9
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definately get INPA or MHD + a KDCAN cable to start reading codes.

i'm not sure whats up w/ the keys ... i would have just spent 2-300 at a dealer to get the key (but i'm not an expert) ... i'm not sure if a key could make the car do what you just showed which is start but not ignite. (i wouldn't be surprised if the key could do that)

anyway everything sounds fine it just sounds like there's no ignition.

I don't think i'd be so concerned about the plugs right now, but i would check out the entire ignition system.

Take the engine cover off and you'll see a bunch of wires, check all your ignition coils, lines, clean them, plug them in again, check the fuel rail.

Does it have fresh gas?

Bottom line to me it just sounds like an ignition issue.

otherwise i'd say it's some issue (like a sensor) that will not let the car ignite if that sensor is F'ed up (this may or may not exist)

Edit: also check your airbox, you want to make sure you don't have some kind of air blockage happening..
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      05-20-2020, 06:36 AM   #10
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Today is the day I’m gonna get back out there to continue working on getting the vehicle up and running. If only I had those cables and those items to properly diagnose/ read the codes and make any necessary programming/coding changes. I will definitely be ordering them in the next day or so.

Yeah it’s odd that the engine is not igniting...the reason I figured it might be the spark plugs is because I saw a bunch of random dirty spare spark plugs in the passenger side door and in the glovebox. I figured that if the engine isn’t firing, then it means that it’s not getting the spark that is necessary to cause the actual combustion. Anyone know how to test the ignition coils to make sure they are working properly?
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      05-20-2020, 06:40 AM   #11
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Yes it has fresh gas and fresh fluids.
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      05-20-2020, 04:53 PM   #12
nsjames
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there's not much reason to go out and mess with it unless you can ask the computer why it doesn't fire the ignition and injectors.
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      05-20-2020, 06:25 PM   #13
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+1. Wasted energy (and likely to cause further issues) if you're just going to start trying things without reading codes. Modern engines aren't like old all-mechanical ones; there are so many reasons the DME won't allow the engine to start, and most of them are invisible to the naked eye.
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      05-22-2020, 11:10 PM   #14
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I wish I would’ve seen these responses before I went out there today. Needless to say the spark plugs did absolutely nothing to fix the no-start issue. I promise I’m not hardheaded just did not read those comments prior. It Hass to be something with the DME or something within Vehicles brain. I ordered those cables that you guys recommended but I had a question regarding their use. How user-friendly is the interface of the software that I use to re code parameters. What’s throwing me off the most is that I also think that another reason why I’m having issues is because the battery power distribution box or whatever that damn thing is sitting on top of the battery is all out of whack. So when I go to check the DTC codes, I’m sure that some of them are caused by the battery thing being messed up. I’m about to say F it and just take it in to a local Indy And have them give me a proper assessment as to what’s going on with the vehicle and then from there I can just fix it my own without going through this whole process of elimination fiasco. But that’s not to say that I do not still want to learn how to use the software on my own so that in the future I am my own at-home BMW Service advisor.
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      05-22-2020, 11:15 PM   #15
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At least the vehicle still has its factory catalytic converters. I was very shocked to see them still in there!
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      05-22-2020, 11:16 PM   #16
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Are there any important ground points to the frame near the battery itself?
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      05-22-2020, 11:24 PM   #17
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Also, Are there any major connections within the electrical system that need to be for sure in tact in order for the vehicle to properly be able to start so for instance like I’m in the process of redoing the headliner so it’s out of vehicle & basically all the overhead connections are temporarily disconnected. This could potentially turn out to be the worst $300 I’ve ever spent. It reminds me of the time my dad got me a $50 gift certificate to the Burberry store for my birthday back when I was in high school. There’s nothing in that store that I could even buy with the $50 gift card by the way. I mean there was a keychains which was the cheapest item but it was still nearly $100. So to use the gift card, I had to spend my own money to be able to buy anything. I ended up just standing outside the store and I finally found somebody willing to buy it off me at face value
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      05-23-2020, 03:12 AM   #18
Tambohamilton
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Inpa is not user friendly, at least until you've got your bearings with it. There is plenty of guidance on the forum though.

Bimmergeeks Protool is great if you don't mind spending money; very easy to use!
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      08-05-2020, 03:03 AM   #19
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Any other suggestions?
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      08-05-2020, 03:28 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrjonathons View Post
Any other suggestions?
Sounds to me like the engine is TRYING to fire which makes me suspect you have a fuel issue. Have you tested the fuel pressure? Should be about 70 - 75psi from memory.

You could try spraying some fuel or starter fluid down the intake while the engine is cranking over and see if it starts.

Last edited by F31B48; 08-05-2020 at 04:17 AM..
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      08-05-2020, 07:57 AM   #21
nsjames
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrjonathons View Post
Any other suggestions?
aside from getting diagnostic information from the DME that will likely tell you exactly why it doesn't work?

no.
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      08-06-2020, 06:41 AM   #22
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Is the fuel pump priming with just the ignition on the on position?
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