[MadDog89]

My 07 e92 is having a bit of an electrical issue. Over the weekend my car completely died, couldn't open the door or trunk. Jump started via front terminal and everything was fine, even after shutting the car off I was able to get it running again no problem. Next day, its dead again then came back alive after I opened the door via access hole. Today everything worked fine, but when driving I get Brake Light, ABS Light, Traction Light flickering on and off, speedometer was also jumping up and down.

Called BMW to check if there are any open recalls for the positive cable at the junction box, everything has been addressed by previous owner. I figured it might be the battery, but its only 3 years old and its a genuine BMW battery. How often do you guys replace your battery?

[rick100]

have you measure the battery voltage by any chance?... without a load and under load ? specially early in the morning .

that would be my first guess, maybe the alternator is not charging the battery , maybe you have a weak battery. I would start there before you move on

It could also be something draining your battery overnight . I would check the battery voltage at the end of the day and then the next day , if the battery voltage is below 12 volts then either you have a bad battery or something is staying on while the car is off

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by rick100

have you measure the battery voltage by any chance?... without a load and under load ? specially early in the morning .

that would be my first guess, maybe the alternator is not charging the battery , maybe you have a weak battery. I would start there before you move on

It could also be something draining your battery overnight . I would check the battery voltage at the end of the day and then the next day , if the battery voltage is below 12 volts then either you have a bad battery or something is staying on while the car is off

Sometimes it's fine over night, very weird. Just measured Voltage on the battery it's 12v and alternator putting out 14.1v - didn't check under load as I don't have an extra person. Got the following codes.

DME active codes -
2DEC - DME: Power management, battery.
2DED - DME: Power management, closed-circuit current violation.
2F80 - DME: Engine shutdown time, plausibility.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

07 e92... Over the weekend my car completely died, couldn't open the door or trunk. Jump started via front terminal and everything was fine, even after shutting the car off I was able to get it running again no problem. Next day, its dead again then came back alive after I opened the door via access hole. Today everything worked fine, but when driving I get Brake Light, ABS Light, Traction Light flickering on and off, speedometer was also jumping up and down...Sometimes it's fine over night, very weird. Just measured Voltage on the battery it's 12v and alternator putting out 14.1v - didn't check under load as I don't have an extra person. Got the following codes.
DME active codes -
2DEC - DME: Power management, battery.
2DED - DME: Power management, closed-circuit current violation.
2F80 - DME: Engine shutdown time, plausibility.

The "2DEC" & "2DED" codes were set due to "Parasitic Draw" or Current Drain from the Battery when systems were SUPPOSED to be asleep, resulting in a "Dead Battery" with Voltage < 9.52V as stated in the attached Fault Information sheets for those two codes, per BMW Fault Code Lookup:
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagVie...AAMwA1ADAANAA=
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagVie...AAMwA3ADAANAA=

Strange Instrument Cluster behavior as you describe CAN be/ Usually is caused by "Over-voltage" conditions where the Alternator INTERMITTENTLY produces voltage > 15.2V, often in the range of 16V, 17V or MORE. Excessive system voltage causes strange Module behavior, or communication issues between modules. It can damage modules or your battery if NOT corrected soon enough. Best way to test for over-voltage is to activate "Hidden Menu 9.00" and watch System Voltage on your instrument cluster as you drive.
http://e90.wikifoundry.com/page/BC+hidden+menus

From your description, I would expect system voltage to be in proper range of 13.5 to 14.8 volts UNTIL the "Light Show" begins on the instrument cluster. The CAUSE of Over-voltage is usually a defective Voltage Regulator. For the 180-Amp Bosch Alternator, a replacement Regulator is currently $31 from Autohaus:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/BS-12317561939

Battery Drain (Intermittent) can ALSO be caused by a failing Voltage Regulator, due to electrically-faulty diodes (electrical check-valves) in the Voltage Regulator. There are tests for "Quiescent Current" or "Parasitic Draw" which can be done using INPA or a Clamp Meter capable of measuring DC Current via the Clamp.

If your Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software can read Fault Codes in any module OTHER than the DME, AND can read "Freeze Frame Data", see if you have any Fault Code in the KOMBI (Instrument Cluster) Module, or in the JBE (Junction Box Electronics) Module, and if so, check System Voltage at the moment any such code was saved. THAT FF DATA can PROVE Over-voltage occurred when Light Show happened.

There are a number of recent threads on this Forum and Bimmerfest where folks have already replaced the Voltage Regulator, or have one on order/ to be replaced, and those who have reported thus far have corrected both (1) Over-voltage issue, AND (2) Parasitic Draw issue simply by replacing the $31 Voltage Regulator as opposed to the entire Alternator which costs 10 to 15 times as much.

Proper Diagnosis/Testing is recommended, but parts-throwers don't have a lot to lose trying the $31 VR as long as you confirm you have the Bosch 180-Amp Alternator currently installed.

George

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

The "2DEC" & "2DED" codes were set due to "Parasitic Draw" or Current Drain from the Battery when systems were SUPPOSED to be asleep, resulting in a "Dead Battery" with Voltage < 9.52V as stated in the attached Fault Information sheets for those two codes, per BMW Fault Code Lookup:
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagVie...AAMwA1ADAANAA=
http://www.bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagVie...AAMwA3ADAANAA=

Strange Instrument Cluster behavior as you describe CAN be/ Usually is caused by "Over-voltage" conditions where the Alternator INTERMITTENTLY produces voltage > 15.2V, often in the range of 16V, 17V or MORE. Excessive system voltage causes strange Module behavior, or communication issues between modules. It can damage modules or your battery if NOT corrected soon enough. Best way to test for over-voltage is to activate "Hidden Menu 9.00" and watch System Voltage on your instrument cluster as you drive.
http://e90.wikifoundry.com/page/BC+hidden+menus

From your description, I would expect system voltage to be in proper range of 13.5 to 14.8 volts UNTIL the "Light Show" begins on the instrument cluster. The CAUSE of Over-voltage is usually a defective Voltage Regulator. For the 180-Amp Bosch Alternator, a replacement Regulator is currently $31 from Autohaus:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/BS-12317561939

Battery Drain (Intermittent) can ALSO be caused by a failing Voltage Regulator, due to electrically-faulty diodes (electrical check-valves) in the Voltage Regulator. There are tests for "Quiescent Current" or "Parasitic Draw" which can be done using INPA or a Clamp Meter capable of measuring DC Current via the Clamp.

If your Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software can read Fault Codes in any module OTHER than the DME, AND can read "Freeze Frame Data", see if you have any Fault Code in the KOMBI (Instrument Cluster) Module, or in the JBE (Junction Box Electronics) Module, and if so, check System Voltage at the moment any such code was saved. THAT FF DATA can PROVE Over-voltage occurred when Light Show happened.

There are a number of recent threads on this Forum and Bimmerfest where folks have already replaced the Voltage Regulator, or have one on order/ to be replaced, and those who have reported thus far have corrected both (1) Over-voltage issue, AND (2) Parasitic Draw issue simply by replacing the $31 Voltage Regulator as opposed to the entire Alternator which costs 10 to 15 times as much.

Proper Diagnosis/Testing is recommended, but parts-throwers don't have a lot to lose trying the $31 VR as long as you confirm you have the Bosch 180-Amp Alternator currently installed.

George

Thank you for the detailed write up. Would any or all of the things you mentioned be a result of a bad battery?

Also forgot to mention, there was some fast ticking near the glove compartment when the car was dead and I had to access car via key hole.

[MadDog89]

Solved. The negative battery terminal was not installed properly. Had to reinstall it and torque properly. Everything working fine now.