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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Trunk harness repair q's
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12-17-2018, 06:58 PM | #1 |
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Trunk harness repair q's
Hey y'all.
I'm going over the niggles in my new wagon, and after swapping the reverse light and seeing no improvement, I discovered that the tailgate harness is damaged at the hinge point. Beyond repairing the broken wires, any suggestions to keep it from happening again? Wrap it with electrical tape? Or, friction tape? Or... Thanks! |
12-17-2018, 07:08 PM | #2 |
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are they damaged from the harness being pinched, or damaged from the wires flexing and breaking?
if pinched, they were not secured properly. if flexed until broken, buy a high quality silicone jacketed wire to repair with. Splice on either side of the hinge line. It will last longer. |
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12-17-2018, 09:03 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
This is what keeps happening https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=928522 |
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12-30-2018, 07:45 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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12-30-2018, 11:57 AM | #8 |
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Your posts on this subject have persuaded me NOT to use the tailgate in cold weather.
I had NOT looked at the wiring harness entry into the roof/chassis from the hatch before. When I first read these posts, I was trying to think of a design that would reduce horizontal flexion (hinge action) on the wiring as much as possible, and the first thing that came to mind was rotation of the wiring harness by having it enter the chassis at as great an angle as possible as opposed to perpendicular to the hinge line (so the wire sheath would twist as opposed to bend). When I look at mine, it appears that was the concept BMW used in the design, but when I look at your "fine" photo, it is obvious that "as assembled" the design concept was NOT understood or followed. It looks like (1) the total volume of wiring is too great for the size of the sheath and/or opening in the sheet metal, and (2) the wiring was "stuffed" into the opening any way it would fit, with NO regard to allowing enough space for the wiring harness to twist instead of bend. Worse yet, it appears that the wiring was jammed into the opening in such a way as to sharply flex it, even in its "at rest" position, so that it was pre-disposed to bend and ultimately break at those flex points. So whether the flaw is deemed to be (1) in the design, or (2) in the assembly execution, the "fix" would appear to be to route the wiring in such a way that the harness twists or rotates longitudinally, with as little flexion horizontally as possible. Just a thought, with NO practical experience with an actual FIX. George |
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12-30-2018, 12:42 PM | #9 |
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Hi George!
Not sure if it helps, but the cracked wires in the photo were in the middle of the rubber boot portion, not in the chassis. What you see is after I pulled the boot about 3 or 4 inches down the wires. Jesse |
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12-30-2018, 05:15 PM | #10 |
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this happened on my 535 on the trunk harness. I cut about 6-8 inches out of the harness and replaced each wire by soldering in new wire. been about 3 years with no issues.
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