[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Space Grey Xi

... the sport mode came back while driving.....then after a minute it was gone again, and back were a couple of the codes.
Codes while sport mode was working are:
DME/DDE (engine electronics) Error code 2F71 Electronics box fan...
EGS (transmission control) code 578E Gearbox oil, wear, lifetime exceeded

Codes after sport mode off again:
Same as above plus...
EGS (transmission control) Error code 5673 Shift paddles, short circuit to positive, fault, short circuit to positive...

The 2F71 & 578E Fault Codes have NO relationship to the M/S issue. The 5673 Code is VERY related to the M/S issue. Although you do NOT have "Shift Paddles", those paddles on the sport wheel are wired in Parallel to the Steptronic Switch in the console by the Gear Lever. My interpretation of that code as it relates to YOUR system is that there is an issue in the Yellow/Blue & White/Blue wires between X8500/7 at the transmission, and X9944/6 at the Gear Indicator Light (E82), to include Connector X6031 in the E-box and the Diode in E82.

Remember this TIS wiring diagram? Follow the Connectors & Pins mentioned above on this diagram:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lities/gLmdckV

What happens if you firmly apply the Handbrake, start the engine, put Gear Selector in M/S position and then do NOT touch the Gear Lever for a minute or two while the engine idles? Does the M/S Indicator on the Instrument Cluster go OUT or change to "D" after ~ 60 seconds, or does it CONTINUE to display M/S if you don't move/touch the Shift Lever?

My SWAG is that if the Instrument Cluster Display changes from M/S to D WITHOUT any movement of the Shift Lever, that the Diode in E82 Gear Indicator Light is bad.

It seems KEY to me that the KOMBI continues to Display M/S if Ignition is ON but engine is NOT running, and only reverts to "D" if engine is started & running for ~ 60 seconds. If I understood your previous posts correctly, with engine OFF, you could push Shift Lever Forward or Rearward, to Downshift or Upshift position, and STILL not have M/S display revert to D. THAT suggests that there is an electrical issue when System Voltage is in the ~14V range with engine running and Alternator charging (increasing system voltage), but NOT when System is at Battery Voltage, ~ 12.5V. THAT sounds more like an electronic component fault than a "wiring" fault. Increased voltage CAN complete a circuit (OR a short) when there is only light or partial contact between wires, however, so if you have NOT already done so, check out the connections at X6031 in the E-box.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[Space Grey Xi]

Originally Posted by E92William

Definitely a wire problem then. The e-box fan code is a little fan I believe that's by the DME under the hood. I remember seeing a while ago that some wires get pulled when you move the lever to the left on the shifter and overtime they get damaged.

Sorry, What is a DME?

[Space Grey Xi]

Originally Posted by Edn54

You should try and check oil trans oil lever check wiring !

Changing the trans oil/fluid is on my to do list for sure. Need to figure out which tranny I have. I hear there are two that could be in the car.

[Space Grey Xi]

Originally Posted by NGEE

^^this. Check the threads...

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=511799

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=842645

On it now.

So i went through the first link.
Only person in 5 pages who had similar symptoms was you.
Why would you not just say you had the same issue, it was the white and purple?

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by Space Grey Xi

Why would you not just say you had the same issue, it was the white and purple?

Couldn't remember - that was a while ago lol. I didn't even remember posting in that thread. I just had it pinned because it solved my problem, which was similar to yours.

Have you checked those wires?

[Space Grey Xi]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

The 2F71 & 578E Fault Codes have NO relationship to the M/S issue. The 5673 Code is VERY related to the M/S issue. Although you do NOT have "Shift Paddles", those paddles on the sport wheel are wired in Parallel to the Steptronic Switch in the console by the Gear Lever. My interpretation of that code as it relates to YOUR system is that there is an issue in the Yellow/Blue & White/Blue wires between X8500/7 at the transmission, and X9944/6 at the Gear Indicator Light (E82), to include Connector X6031 in the E-box and the Diode in E82.

Remember this TIS wiring diagram? Follow the Connectors & Pins mentioned above on this diagram:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lities/gLmdckV

What happens if you firmly apply the Handbrake, start the engine, put Gear Selector in M/S position and then do NOT touch the Gear Lever for a minute or two while the engine idles? Does the M/S Indicator on the Instrument Cluster go OUT or change to "D" after ~ 60 seconds, or does it CONTINUE to display M/S if you don't move/touch the Shift Lever?

My SWAG is that if the Instrument Cluster Display changes from M/S to D WITHOUT any movement of the Shift Lever, that the Diode in E82 Gear Indicator Light is bad.

It seems KEY to me that the KOMBI continues to Display M/S if Ignition is ON but engine is NOT running, and only reverts to "D" if engine is started & running for ~ 60 seconds. If I understood your previous posts correctly, with engine OFF, you could push Shift Lever Forward or Rearward, to Downshift or Upshift position, and STILL not have M/S display revert to D. THAT suggests that there is an electrical issue when System Voltage is in the ~14V range with engine running and Alternator charging (increasing system voltage), but NOT when System is at Battery Voltage, ~ 12.5V. THAT sounds more like an electronic component fault than a "wiring" fault. Increased voltage CAN complete a circuit (OR a short) when there is only light or partial contact between wires, however, so if you have NOT already done so, check out the connections at X6031 in the E-box.

Please let us know what you find,
George

Thanks again George, the effort and detail you put into your posts blows me away!
I see in the drawing what you are talking about but I have trouble relating this to the car. I have not seen a diode or The Connector x6031.

You are correct with most of how you understand my posts.
If the car is not running, I can put the shifter into M/S and it will stay there until I move it out manually on the dash display. If I try to shift up or down it does nothing. Just continues to say SD or DS? I forget which. It never shows M1, M2 etc. like when the car is running.

The only things that have me questioning the wiring being the problem are as follows:
At one point the only trouble code I was seeing was about the trans fluid. when I would reset only this one code my sport mode would come back for a minute.
On another thread I saw where replacing a cooling fan fixed sport mode for someone. I also see a fan issue. Not that the fan is the issue but any trouble code could be.
And lastly, after inspecting the wires twice I haven't even seen a crack in the insulation anywhere on any wire. I hesitate to start cutting perfectly good wires to repair them hoping they were the problem.

I can spend some time tinkering again on the weekend and will try to find the diode and connector x6031. If the break in the wire is right at where it comes out of the shifter....I'm not sure how to fix it. I need some wire to solder to.

Thanks again.
I still have another thread to read that was posted above.

Jeff

[Space Grey Xi]

Originally Posted by NGEE

Couldn't remember - that was a while ago lol. I didn't even remember posting in that thread. I just had it pinned because it solved my problem, which was similar to yours.

Have you checked those wires?

I checked all the wires a couple of times and they appeared perfect.
I will check again on the weekend. focusing on the ones you noted.
I'm about to dig into your second linked thread now.

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by Space Grey Xi

I checked all the wires a couple of times and they appeared perfect.

From that first link, if you didn't do all this, you didn't check all the wires:

3. There are 3 silver bolts that are holding down the shifter assembly, take that off (torx)
4. Wiggle the shifter assembly and lean it to your left
5. On the right side of the shifter assembly there should be three bolts (torx) remove them.
6. Now you have full access to the wires.

Also, from post #35:

"The wires looked fine till I removed the tape and then bammmm..."

[Space Grey Xi]

Originally Posted by NGEE

From that first link, if you didn't do all this, you didn't check all the wires:

3. There are 3 silver bolts that are holding down the shifter assembly, take that off (torx)
4. Wiggle the shifter assembly and lean it to your left
5. On the right side of the shifter assembly there should be three bolts (torx) remove them.
6. Now you have full access to the wires.

Also, from post #35:

"The wires looked fine till I removed the tape and then bammmm..."

Thanks for the reply.
Before I posted I did all of that...and again for a second time after I posted.

Shifter off.
Cover off.
3 larger torx out
lift up
3 smaller torx out
pry open right side to free wires
Take tape off all wires
examine wires
nothing kinked, nothing cracked nothing broken....
I even went into the house to get my reading glasses (that I don't really need to read but they help) to make sure i could see perfectly.
I wiggled all the wires with the car running and not running, moving the shifter around to see if moving the wires would make the connection but nothing changed.
I even tried to follow all the wires in every direction well beyond where everyone else has issues. All the videos online and pictures show cracked or broken wires in the exact same area...so I doubt my problem would be somewhere else but anything is possible.
Then i replaced the tape and buttoned it all back up.

That being said, I plan to look again today. I will admit it if I find something on my third attempt.

Previous owner used the compartment at the front of the console for coins and a few slipped through the crack into the shifter area.
I wonder if it is possible that a coin has worked its way in somewhere causing a short.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Space Grey Xi

... I have not seen a diode or The Connector x6031...It never shows M1, M2 etc. like when the car is running...

Hi Jeff,

When the Steptronic Switch, E82 Gear Indicator Light, and associated wiring ARE working correctly, with Ignition ON, but Engine OFF, the Instrument Cluster "Gear Selected" display is EXACTLY as you describe. There is NO shift, "M1, M2, etc." with engine OFF. What I find significant is that the "Gear Selected" does NOT revert to "D" from "M/S" if Engine is NOT running. Also for the first ~ 60 seconds after Engine Start, the Gear Selected display shows M/S and you can upshift/downshift with "Mx" displayed for gear manually-selected. UNTIL, M/S display reverts to "D" (even though you have NOT moved shift lever to Right Gate), and Manual Upshift/Downshift is no longer possible.

So to try to better EXPLAIN my analysis, which is SOLELY based upon the following TIS wiring diagram and Installation Location (NOT personal experience with the actual condition you describe, OR physical exam of parts), here are those TIS links again:

1) Transmission Control wiring diagram showing Steptronic Switch (S224a), and White/Green, White/Blue & Yellow/Blue wires between the Switch and the Transmission Control Module A7000a:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lities/gLmdckV

2) Installation Location of Connector X6031 in the E-box, between White/Blue wire and Yellow/Blue wire:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/SL92ADs

A) So the Steptronic Switch, S224a, provides a Ground signal or connection, from Pin #4 of Connector X1561 (X1561/4), via the White/Green wire to Pin #4 of Connector X9944 (X9944/4) at the Gear Indicator Light, E82.

B) That Ground signal/connection THEN passes through a DIODE located inside the Gear Indicator Light Module. NOTE the thin line between X9944/4 and X9944/6, or Pin #6 of Connector X9944 at E82 module.

C) NOTE the "Diode Symbol" in the center of that thin line within the E82 Module. The Symbol used for a Diode is a Black Triangle with a line touching the point of the triangle. In this case, the line is BELOW the triangle. That Diode acts as an "Electrical Checkvalve" to allow current flow ONLY in one direction. If that small electronic component fails, the circuit does NOT work as intended. So although I have NEVER tested a diode, most Multimeters have the capability to test a diode.

D) If you have a multimeter and the Owner's Manual that relates to it, read the section on diode testing and try that between pins #4 & #6 of the Gear Indicator Light Module (E82) where the White/Green and White/Blue wires connect. Basically, you select "Diode Test" mode on the Multimeter Dial, and then read the meter display with the meter probes contacting E82 pins #4 & #6, say Red Probe contacting #6. Then Reverse the Meter Probes (contact Pin #4 with Red Probe), and read the meter display. If the Diode is functioning properly as an "Electrical Checkvalve", you will get "1" reading or virtually Infinite resistance/ open-circuit display with probes contacting ONE way, and virtually "0" resistance or closed circuit (very small reading) with probes positioned in reverse. Here is Wikipedia article on Diodes which gives a more detailed explanation, and shows some examples:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode

E) The Ground signal continues from X9944/6, via the White/Blue wire, to Connector X6031, Pin #6 (X6031/6) which is located in the E-box or Electronics Box at the Vehicle-Right side of the firewall. The Yellow/Blue wire, that goes to X8500/7 at the Transmission Control, connects to the White/Blue wire at that Connector X6031 in the "E-box".

You had asked earlier about the "DME". DME in German = Digitale Motor Elektronik, and the English translation should be obvious. That is the ECU (Electronic Control Module) which controls Engine Functions such as timing and duration of spark & Fuel Injector Pulse, Throttle/VVT opening/ Intake Valve"Lift", Cam Timing (VANOS), operation of Fuel Pump, Coolant Pump, Radiator Fan, etc. It is located in the "E-box".

I would suggest testing the diode as described above FIRST. If you're wary of learning how to do electrical testing with your DMM (Digital Multimeter), if you have the Gear Indicator Light Module connector accessible, and show the "Transmission Control" wiring diagram linked above, presumably anyone reasonably versed in electronic testing can do that. Please let us know what you find.

George

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

etc. etc.... George

[Space Grey Xi]

Hi George,

I am attempting to test the diode....but I cant find it.
I have the shifter boot in my hand with the gear indicator light portion attached.
I removed the indicator light from the boot and opened it up, expecting to see a diode inside of it but instead I found a little circuit board with LED lights on it.

If the diode is in the circuit board, I used the MM on pins 4 and 6. One direction showed nothing...the same as when no pins are being touched.
Switching the probes gave me a reading. Not sure what the reading shows but 1.776 was what it said.

[Tunafish]

I believe that diode is the led light for position location...

[Space Grey Xi]

If the issue is with the diode, i'm not sure how to test it....possibly just replace the little LED wiring harness thing, it cant be that much money.
Anyone know the part number?

I say I'm not sure how to test it because it only screws up when the car is running. I can't get to the pins when its hooked up.

Also if i were to test the wires from the shifter light x9944 to the transmission control x8500 and find a fault, i'm not sure how to fix it. Those wires are only visible at each end...not the middle section that runs from the console to the engine compartment.

[mecheng77]

I haven't read this entire thread but a common problem is lack of slack on the wires in the shifter assembly

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Space Grey Xi

... I am attempting to test the diode....but I cant find it. I have the shifter boot in my hand with the gear indicator light portion attached. I removed the indicator light from the boot and opened it up, expecting to see a diode inside of it but instead I found a little circuit board with LED lights on it. If the diode is in the circuit board, I used the MM on pins 4 and 6. One direction showed nothing...the same as when no pins are being touched. Switching the probes gave me a reading. Not sure what the reading shows but 1.776 was what it said.

That sounds like you tested the Diode, and it functions as it should, AS LONG AS THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING. Sorry I had Brain Lock & didn't think about the fact that the diode works and the Instrument Cluster displays M/S until the engine has run for ~ 60 seconds. That makes the standard diode testing meaningless.

Probably voltage in reference to ground at Pin #4 or #6, backprobing the connector (Connector attached to E82) with the engine running, perhaps even sticking pins in the White/Green & White/Blue wires, would indicate something. Sorry I don't have any experience in that type of test, and I've Never taken the console apart or seen E82. I'm just going by the TIS wiring diagram & Installation Location. I take it the Pins #4 & #6 you are referencing are at a 6-pin connector that looks like this?
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CT8FHeGi

If you have a chance to take a photo of E82 pins and/or its connector X9944, that might help ALL of us.

Originally Posted by Space Grey Xi

If the issue is with the diode, i'm not sure how to test it....possibly just replace the little LED wiring harness thing, it cant be that much money. Anyone know the part number? I say I'm not sure how to test it because it only screws up when the car is running. I can't get to the pins when its hooked up. Also if i were to test the wires from the shifter light x9944 to the transmission control x8500 and find a fault, i'm not sure how to fix it. Those wires are only visible at each end...not the middle section that runs from the console to the engine compartment.

Hi Jeff,

As stated above, my bad that I didn't think of what you have discovered: You DID test the diode and it works as intended when engine is NOT running and system has ONLY battery voltage, but when you add another ~ 2 Volts of Alternator juice, after ~ 60 seconds the circuit ceases proper function. If you could devise a way to test voltage in reference to ground, at both the White/Green wire (Pin #4), AND White/Blue wire (Pin #6), you would probably see a change in Voltage in ONE of those at ~ 60 seconds after engine start, and if so, my SWAG would be the diode malfunctions at that point. I EMPHASIZE "This is a SWAG, this is ONLY a SWAG".

I tried to find the "Gear Indicator Light" (E82) in RealOEM.com and NO Joy. Exact opposite actually as that site has become worse than the new Bimmerfest Abomination, where they care more about "Pop-Up Ad" Money than any proper use of the site.

I would suggest carefully examining the E82 assembly itself, to see if there is ANY part# or Mfr. ID on it. You might have to use bright light & magnification to see it. Call to a Dealer for part# identification would be next step. It probably has some name OTHER than "Gear Indicator Light" in BMW Parts jargon. Perhaps they have a Cross-Reference with the "E82" Component ID that I don't know about.

What's REALLY bugging me is that I have a recollection of having SEEN that part listed by one of the online suppliers a year or two ago. I recall it was in the ~ $130 US price range.

You're the lucky guy that gets to sort this out for the rest of us -- hopefully.

George

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

I haven't read this entire thread but a common problem is lack of slack on the wires in the shifter assembly

We've been down that rabbit hole.

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I would suggest carefully examining the E82 assembly itself, to see if there is ANY part# or Mfr. ID on it.

I would be shocked if BMW offered that as a separate part. Pretty sure you'd have to order the entire trim plate. I would try to find a used one.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by NGEE

I would be shocked if BMW offered that as a separate part. Pretty sure you'd have to order the entire trim plate. I would try to find a used one.

You may be "on to something". That separate electronic component is too small to be able to make any money on selling separately, OR, it may be fitted into the plastic trim piece in such a way as NOT to be replaceable separately.

What I DID FIND searching RealOEM for my 3/2007 E91:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_5724
BMW Part# for the "Cover, Gear Selecting Lever", aka "Shifter Trim, Automatic", is 51167155643, and here are two sources:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...c/51167155643/
https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...el-51167155643

In the ECS part photo, E82 is installed in the trim. I would call the part Vendor and get confirmation of the electronic E82 being a part of, or installed in, the plastic trim. For $64 to $72 for the part, I would certainly expect E82 to be included as the ECS multi-view page shows it.

I've never taken mine apart. Does the 6-pin connector X9944 connect to the LED module E82 in the Forward-Left corner of the trim? Hope you're able to solve the puzzle and can educate us with a photo or two.

George

[Space Grey Xi]

I have been busy and not online for the last week or so.
Changed my transmission fluid today of course it didn't solve my shifter problem....but I still get a code saying my transmission fluid is past its lifetime....Odd. Maybe I need to reset it somehow. I reset the code but it keeps coming back.

George, the part you showed is the correct part. in one of the pictures it shows a blue plastic part attached under the shifter cover. This is all in one, wiring harness connector and circuit board/LED light cover.
I can get you a picture....need to figure out how to post it.

Not sure if I want to throw a bunch of money at something I don't know is broken. Although you did find much better prices than the original link.

At this point I have given up.
I know I'll get back to it after a break and if I figure it out I will follow up on this thread.

[Space Grey Xi]

Gave up but didn't give up.
Got my new (used) shifter boot with the wire harness and diode in the mail today.
I figured the odds on the second diode being faulty is quite slim seeing as no one else has had a problem with it. Even if its used.
Wish I could reset my transmission fluid code. I have done some searches and others report not being able to reset it as well.
Just need to find the right software.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Space Grey Xi

... Wish I could reset my transmission fluid code. I have done some searches and others report not being able to reset it as well. Just need to find the right software.

I have both INPA & ISTA. Simply CLEARING the Fault Code (578E) will NOT work; the code remains in EGS Memory. I could find NO way to "Reset the Counter" using INPA, as Adaptation Resets did NOT delete code.

ISTA DID "Reset" counter & clear the code. IIRC, I simply selected the 578E Fault Line in Fault Memory Screen, clicked Calculate Test Plan in lower-right corner of screen, and working through the Flow Chart, was able to Clear or Reset the Counter. Sorry I did NOT do a ScreenPrint of the precise screen at which Reset occurred. I was just experimenting with ISTA in the first week of its use, and wasn't sure what was going to happen, or IF the code would actually be cleared (IT WAS thankfully).

George