[cbyrne]

Hoping someone can save me from drowning here,

I've got a '11 328i xDrive that greeted me with a dead battery this morning

I jumped it and discovered that i could not get the headlights to turn off.

Also discovered upon jumping was the red vehicle-on-a-lift indicator, signifying "headlights and brake lights functional, all other lighting systems failed" or something to that effect.

Window motors don't work, door ajar indicator lights up when driving, turn signals don't work

This definitely feels like a dealership trip. In the meantime I'm thinking that I'll remove the fuse for the low beam headlamps, jump the car again and hope that I can get the battery to keep a charge

Anybody got any better ideas?

[Hoody007]

It's getting cold out. Sounds like a dying battery - how old is it?

Your symptoms are inline with a dying battery - the car will prioritize safety systems (lights) above all else.

[mapleleaf1773]

+1 replace your battery. That should fix it. If not, report back.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Oh no, this sounds like you FRM went. When my FRM went I had the same "lightning system error" and pretty much 100% same symptoms. Driver open door ajar/warning, windows wouldn't work, zero lights worked, no indicators etc. Did not happen from a jump start though, happened after resetting my windows. But still I would see a jump start screwing it up with reading online about all the FRM issues..

Easy way to check is to scan the car with ISTA and you will see if the module is red or green.

[cbyrne]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Oh no, this sounds like you FRM went. When my FRM went I had the same "lightning system error" and pretty much 100% same symptoms. Driver open door ajar/warning, windows wouldn't work, zero lights worked, no indicators etc. Did not happen from a jump start though, happened after resetting my windows. But still I would see a jump start screwing it up with reading online about all the FRM issues..

Easy way to check is to scan the car with ISTA and you will see if the module is red or green.

Update: The car loses all charge after engine shutoff. Can only start on a jump.

I am throwing the following fault codes

• 2DEC DME power management, battery
• 2DED DME power management, closed circuit current violation
• CDAB DME receiver FRM LDM LM transmitter
• A3B4 Receiver instrument panel, transmitter footwell module
• A3C1 same as above
• A559 instrument cluster: power supply has been switched off (closed-circuit current cutoff relay)
• A6D4 JBE central locking relay, unlocking
• A6D5 JBE central locking relay, locking

Is it worth replacing the battery to see if that is indeed the issue?

[cbyrne]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

It's getting cold out. Sounds like a dying battery - how old is it?

Your symptoms are inline with a dying battery - the car will prioritize safety systems (lights) above all else.

It's still in the low 80s Fahrenheit here and the battery has shown no signs of losing juice until today.

To your point though, the battery is at least 5 years old. I posted my fault codes, does anything stand out to you?

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by cbyrne

Update: The car loses all charge after engine shutoff. Can only start on a jump.

I am throwing the following fault codes

• 2DEC DME power management, battery
• 2DED DME power management, closed circuit current violation
• CDAB DME receiver FRM LDM LM transmitter
• A3B4 Receiver instrument panel, transmitter footwell module
• A3C1 same as above
• A559 instrument cluster: power supply has been switched off (closed-circuit current cutoff relay)
• A6D4 JBE central locking relay, unlocking
• A6D5 JBE central locking relay, locking

Is it worth replacing the battery to see if that is indeed the issue?

I feel like your battery is due but the jump starting somehow may have fried your FRM (footwell module) as well from the error messages and the lighting behavior.

But I did read some bad batteries sometimes causes weird electric issues so hopefully it's that but I think I'd definitely get a new battery considering it doesn't start on itself (if you went for a long drive at least 30 minutes).

I don't like to do the "parts cannon" and not diagnosing things though so if I were you I would get the battery tested to confirm but yeah.

[cbyrne]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

I feel like your battery is due but the jump starting somehow may have fried your FRM (footwell module) as well from the error messages and the lighting behavior.

But I did read some bad batteries sometimes causes weird electric issues so hopefully it's that but I think I'd definitely get a new battery considering it doesn't start on itself (if you went for a long drive at least 30 minutes).

I don't like to do the "parts cannon" and not diagnosing things though so if I were you I would get the battery tested to confirm but yeah.

Understood, just hoping to eliminate multiple repairs if only one is necessary

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by cbyrne

It's still in the low 80s Fahrenheit here and the battery has shown no signs of losing juice until today.

To your point though, the battery is at least 5 years old. I posted my fault codes, does anything stand out to you?

For what it's worth my original battery lasted nearly 9 years, so it could still be fine.

Are you able to view the battery voltage?
If it is the FRM, there's an extended warranty on it - here's the PDF from BMW:

https://bimmerscan.com/wp-content/up.../B012016-1.pdf

[djx]

i had this and it needed a new frm module

[cbyrne]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

For what it's worth my original battery lasted nearly 9 years, so it could still be fine.

Are you able to view the battery voltage?
If it is the FRM, there's an extended warranty on it - here's the PDF from BMW:

https://bimmerscan.com/wp-content/up.../B012016-1.pdf

Yeah I just called the dealership and my in-service date is 10y, 6mo out which means I'm past the extended warranty.

Any chance that my complaining to BMW of N.A. would yield any results? I'm well within the 150,000 mile limit. If it's a known issue then I'm thinking they might be willing to bend a little to help out a BMW loyalist

[cbyrne]

It was the footwell module. I was out of warranty and needed my car back quickly so I bit the bullet and let the dealership replace it to the tune of ~$950.

Thanks to all who replied. Lesson learned - don't jump start an E9x

[Captain Buumer]

Actually you can.

Just don't have other car engine running while doing it.

Essentially then you then have two batteries in parallel and your car uses them equally. Limiting factor here is how good of a connection you make with 2nd battery.


When other car engine is running and now you start your engine.
You create huge load into the other car battery/electrical system. Other car voltage will drop.
To compensate that generator full potential is used.

However once your engine is also running there will be voltage peak where both cars generators are on full potential.

Usually there is brief period here where sensitive electronics just die to over voltage. Most likely a cheap 3$ input regulator chip burns but BMW FRM is quite badly designed - hard to admit. It sometimes dies when you just disconnect/reconnect negative battery terminal. It's like they almost forgot to design protection circuit in some of them - Why not a simple zener diode to save thousands owners from replacing the module?
BMW technician with 20 year of bmw said just be warned, you might be here longer than simple sensor swap. FRM might not survive the battery disconnect.

It's no different to audis, volvos, kias. They will have also problems in similar conditions. In the old days when we didn't have SMD technology in electronics - sure, then you could be careless of how you jumpstart a car.

Modern cars require slight variation of it.

When the original battery died (pretty much instant once car was introduced to the colder weather) i carried 2nd 74ah battery around to jumpstart car once 100ah AGM arrived.