|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
Help - Valve Cover replacement gone bad!!
|
|
12-10-2017, 04:41 PM | #1 |
New Member
4
Rep 11
Posts |
Help - Valve Cover replacement gone bad!!
I have a 2011 328i that had an oil leak at the rear of the valve cover. I replaced all the seals, spark plugs, coils, and eccentric sensor. Once I was finished the car took a while to start and once it did it was running extremely rough and will barely rev up.
I need help trying to figure this out... |
12-10-2017, 04:53 PM | #2 |
Colonel
851
Rep 2,793
Posts |
Sounds like a coil/plug issue(make sure all pushed down and electrical plug are all the way in)....check all connections/plugs for correct gaps...grounds etc.
Did you correctly install valvetronic motor and do the correct reset procedure. |
Appreciate
1
eddieboy51046.00 |
12-10-2017, 05:05 PM | #3 |
Brigadier General
2163
Rep 4,968
Posts |
Buy a code reader. Record the codes. Post back here with codes.
|
Appreciate
1
BimmerNugget540.50 |
12-10-2017, 05:30 PM | #4 |
Crazy Frog
541
Rep 1,209
Posts |
BUY A GODDAMN BMW SPECIFIC CODE READER!!!! Foxwell NT510 ($149) or iCarsoft BM2 ($160 FCP Euro
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-10-2017, 09:37 PM | #5 |
First Lieutenant
101
Rep 308
Posts |
Get your sugar level checked. Why are you screaming?!?
|
Appreciate
4
|
12-11-2017, 04:10 AM | #7 |
Colonel
3760
Rep 2,738
Posts |
Try reinstalling the valvetronic motor. I don’t know if this will fix it but it’s easy to try so probably worth a shot.
Mine ran really rough after a valvecover gasket replacement and once I reinstalled the motor it was fine. Make sure you don’t have tension on the worm gear after you install the motor. Also did you turn the ignition on and without starting wait 30 seconds for the valvetronic motor to reset? You are supposed to do this a couple times before starting the first time. |
Appreciate
0
|
12-11-2017, 03:42 PM | #8 |
Brigadier General
2163
Rep 4,968
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-11-2017, 05:31 PM | #9 |
New Member
4
Rep 11
Posts |
Valvetronic
I checked all the coils and they are pushed down all the way and the connections seem good.
It may be the valvetronic motor. If it is installed wrong how do I reinstall it? I do have a code reader but no codes have shown yet. I don't think I have let it run long enough... Thanks all for any constructive help... |
Appreciate
0
|
12-11-2017, 06:05 PM | #10 |
Major
1001
Rep 1,268
Posts |
It some sort of vacuum leak. Since you have to take the intake off, I suspect you did not reconnect a vacuum line. First time I took everything apart then put it back together I forgot to reconnect a line and it ran rough and did not through a code. I thought I broke something.
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-13-2017, 04:21 AM | #11 |
General
16946
Rep 18,580
Posts |
Did you run the Valvetronic motor initialization procedure?
|
Appreciate
1
eddieboy51046.00 |
12-18-2017, 06:07 PM | #12 |
Private First Class
46
Rep 112
Posts |
As many previously said. I would guess its the valvetronic motor. Re do the initialization procedure. i did mine three times just to make sure I got it right haha
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-23-2017, 11:01 AM | #14 | |
Unknown Enthusiast
33
Rep 145
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-27-2017, 10:28 AM | #15 |
New Member
4
Rep 11
Posts |
Not fixed yet
The running rough has smoothed out some. I can hear a whining sound from the valvetronic motor. (I do not know the procedure for resetting it).
It has the service engine soon light but no codes... |
Appreciate
0
|
12-27-2017, 12:35 PM | #17 |
General
16946
Rep 18,580
Posts |
You need a BMW scan tool to run the procedure.
__________________
A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-27-2017, 04:36 PM | #18 |
New Member
2
Rep 8
Posts |
When you install the eccentric shaft (valvetronic) motor there is a hex opening on the back of the shaft that you can use an allen key so you can screw the shaft onto the cogs - don't just force it in. You will actually feel the motor pull itself in when done correctly. You then tighten the 3 torx screws tha thold it in place and connect the harness. You can remove & reinstall the Valvetronic shaft motor without removing the VC - remove the coils and connectors from #3 &4 to give more room. Also did you reconnect the sensor at the front of the valvecover? Also ensure that you reconnected the maf if you had that disconnected. I agree that BMW specific codes would be helpful diagnosing.
EDIT: There is no need to run a procedure to reset the eccentric shaft. At next ignition it will turn itself clock to clock to reset automatically. Last edited by BMW-North; 12-27-2017 at 04:42 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
12-29-2017, 07:16 PM | #19 |
Registered
0
Rep 4
Posts |
I had this same issue last year when I changed my valve cover gasket. I tried all the suggestions I could find online and even changed spark plugs, ignition coils, new valve cover, etc. and it still ran like crap. I finally got fed up and decided I was going to drive it to work regardless. After driving about 5 miles, the engine smoothed out and ran perfect after that. The only explanation I found that made sense to me was related to the oxygen sensors. Prior to changing the valve cover gasket, the electronics had adjusted to accommodate the vacuum leak as best it could. When the leak was fixed, the setting were incorrect for the new condition. Even though the oxygen sensors are "heated" they still need to get to at least 600 degrees. Up to the point where I drove it to work, I had never gave it a chance to adjust to the new readings. Some will tell you that the sensors are ready right away but that is not necessarily the case. You can check by removing one and checking the temp. Also, even if the sensor is ready quickly, the system take a number of readings before it resets. I'm not sure how long that takes but its worth giving it a try to see if the engine smooths out.
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-05-2018, 02:12 PM | #20 | |
New Member
4
Rep 11
Posts |
Fixed
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-05-2018, 03:03 PM | #21 |
Major
224
Rep 1,130
Posts
Drives: '11 E92 328i LCI & '06 Z4MR
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: San Juan TX
|
OP I need to do this to my 328i as well, found this video
__________________
2014 BMW X5 Sdrive35i F15
2011 BMW 328i E92 LCI 2006 BMW Z4 M Roadster E85 2013 BMW S1000RR K46 R.I.P. 1998 BMW Z3 Roadster 1.9L E36 SOLD |
Appreciate
0
|
01-08-2018, 02:00 AM | #22 |
Major
224
Rep 1,130
Posts
Drives: '11 E92 328i LCI & '06 Z4MR
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: San Juan TX
|
So as I stated above, I’ll be doing this repair myself as soon as I get the gaskets but first I gotta order them. ECS tuning has different options of OEM vs aftermarket. For the oil filter housing gasket, they have 2 different shapes to it, even the Genuine BMW ones. Do these aftermarket options do the job and which “shape” would a 2011 E92 328i (LCI) need?
I understand I need the valve cover gasket, which comes with the 3 spark plug gaskets. Also the OFHG as well as the essentric shaft sensor gasket. I read sometwhere that the bolts need replacement also on the OFHG, can anyone confirm this or give a detailed list on what needs to be replaced for this DIY on both VCG & OFHG? |
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|