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      12-10-2017, 04:41 PM   #1
stewart_loftin
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Help - Valve Cover replacement gone bad!!

I have a 2011 328i that had an oil leak at the rear of the valve cover. I replaced all the seals, spark plugs, coils, and eccentric sensor. Once I was finished the car took a while to start and once it did it was running extremely rough and will barely rev up.

I need help trying to figure this out...
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      12-10-2017, 04:53 PM   #2
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Sounds like a coil/plug issue(make sure all pushed down and electrical plug are all the way in)....check all connections/plugs for correct gaps...grounds etc.
Did you correctly install valvetronic motor and do the correct reset procedure.
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      12-10-2017, 05:05 PM   #3
tlow98
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Buy a code reader. Record the codes. Post back here with codes.
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      12-10-2017, 05:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Buy a code reader. Record the codes. Post back here with codes.
BUY A GODDAMN BMW SPECIFIC CODE READER!!!! Foxwell NT510 ($149) or iCarsoft BM2 ($160 FCP Euro
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      12-10-2017, 09:37 PM   #5
alfazrus
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Get your sugar level checked. Why are you screaming?!?
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      12-10-2017, 10:30 PM   #6
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get a Creator c310
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      12-11-2017, 04:10 AM   #7
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Try reinstalling the valvetronic motor. I don’t know if this will fix it but it’s easy to try so probably worth a shot.

Mine ran really rough after a valvecover gasket replacement and once I reinstalled the motor it was fine.

Make sure you don’t have tension on the worm gear after you install the motor. Also did you turn the ignition on and without starting wait 30 seconds for the valvetronic motor to reset? You are supposed to do this a couple times before starting the first time.
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      12-11-2017, 03:42 PM   #8
tlow98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerNugget View Post
BUY A GODDAMN BMW SPECIFIC CODE READER!!!! Foxwell NT510 ($149) or iCarsoft BM2 ($160 FCP Euro
Wait, why are you yelling at me, homie?




OP, or ever a Carly will work wonders.
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      12-11-2017, 05:31 PM   #9
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Valvetronic

I checked all the coils and they are pushed down all the way and the connections seem good.

It may be the valvetronic motor. If it is installed wrong how do I reinstall it?

I do have a code reader but no codes have shown yet. I don't think I have let it run long enough...

Thanks all for any constructive help...
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      12-11-2017, 06:05 PM   #10
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It some sort of vacuum leak. Since you have to take the intake off, I suspect you did not reconnect a vacuum line. First time I took everything apart then put it back together I forgot to reconnect a line and it ran rough and did not through a code. I thought I broke something.
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      12-13-2017, 04:21 AM   #11
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Did you run the Valvetronic motor initialization procedure?
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      12-18-2017, 06:07 PM   #12
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As many previously said. I would guess its the valvetronic motor. Re do the initialization procedure. i did mine three times just to make sure I got it right haha
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      12-22-2017, 09:48 PM   #13
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Did you figure this one out? I had the same issue a couple years ago and it took me a long time to figure it out.
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      12-23-2017, 11:01 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewart_loftin View Post
I have a 2011 328i that had an oil leak at the rear of the valve cover. I replaced all the seals, spark plugs, coils, and eccentric sensor. Once I was finished the car took a while to start and once it did it was running extremely rough and will barely rev up.

I need help trying to figure this out...
Did you remember to reconnect the throttle body sensor?
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      12-27-2017, 10:28 AM   #15
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Not fixed yet

The running rough has smoothed out some. I can hear a whining sound from the valvetronic motor. (I do not know the procedure for resetting it).

It has the service engine soon light but no codes...
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      12-27-2017, 10:33 AM   #16
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Procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Did you run the Valvetronic motor initialization procedure?
Where do I find this procedure?
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      12-27-2017, 12:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewart_loftin View Post
Where do I find this procedure?
You need a BMW scan tool to run the procedure.
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      12-27-2017, 04:36 PM   #18
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When you install the eccentric shaft (valvetronic) motor there is a hex opening on the back of the shaft that you can use an allen key so you can screw the shaft onto the cogs - don't just force it in. You will actually feel the motor pull itself in when done correctly. You then tighten the 3 torx screws tha thold it in place and connect the harness. You can remove & reinstall the Valvetronic shaft motor without removing the VC - remove the coils and connectors from #3 &4 to give more room. Also did you reconnect the sensor at the front of the valvecover? Also ensure that you reconnected the maf if you had that disconnected. I agree that BMW specific codes would be helpful diagnosing.

EDIT: There is no need to run a procedure to reset the eccentric shaft. At next ignition it will turn itself clock to clock to reset automatically.

Last edited by BMW-North; 12-27-2017 at 04:42 PM..
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      12-29-2017, 07:16 PM   #19
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I had this same issue last year when I changed my valve cover gasket. I tried all the suggestions I could find online and even changed spark plugs, ignition coils, new valve cover, etc. and it still ran like crap. I finally got fed up and decided I was going to drive it to work regardless. After driving about 5 miles, the engine smoothed out and ran perfect after that. The only explanation I found that made sense to me was related to the oxygen sensors. Prior to changing the valve cover gasket, the electronics had adjusted to accommodate the vacuum leak as best it could. When the leak was fixed, the setting were incorrect for the new condition. Even though the oxygen sensors are "heated" they still need to get to at least 600 degrees. Up to the point where I drove it to work, I had never gave it a chance to adjust to the new readings. Some will tell you that the sensors are ready right away but that is not necessarily the case. You can check by removing one and checking the temp. Also, even if the sensor is ready quickly, the system take a number of readings before it resets. I'm not sure how long that takes but its worth giving it a try to see if the engine smooths out.
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      01-05-2018, 02:12 PM   #20
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Fixed

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW-North View Post
When you install the eccentric shaft (valvetronic) motor there is a hex opening on the back of the shaft that you can use an allen key so you can screw the shaft onto the cogs - don't just force it in. You will actually feel the motor pull itself in when done correctly. You then tighten the 3 torx screws tha thold it in place and connect the harness. You can remove & reinstall the Valvetronic shaft motor without removing the VC - remove the coils and connectors from #3 &4 to give more room. Also did you reconnect the sensor at the front of the valvecover? Also ensure that you reconnected the maf if you had that disconnected. I agree that BMW specific codes would be helpful diagnosing.

EDIT: There is no need to run a procedure to reset the eccentric shaft. At next ignition it will turn itself clock to clock to reset automatically.
This worked. I pulled out the motor, turned the allen just enough to pull the motor in, then tightened everything down. I put the key in, pushed the button to the second position, and waited 30 seconds. I did this several times, started the car, and all was good. It threw the check engine light the first time (No code) but it went away once I restarted the car.
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      01-05-2018, 03:03 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfazrus View Post
Get your sugar level checked. Why are you screaming?!?



OP I need to do this to my 328i as well, found this video

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      01-08-2018, 02:00 AM   #22
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So as I stated above, I’ll be doing this repair myself as soon as I get the gaskets but first I gotta order them. ECS tuning has different options of OEM vs aftermarket. For the oil filter housing gasket, they have 2 different shapes to it, even the Genuine BMW ones. Do these aftermarket options do the job and which “shape” would a 2011 E92 328i (LCI) need?

I understand I need the valve cover gasket, which comes with the 3 spark plug gaskets. Also the OFHG as well as the essentric shaft sensor gasket. I read sometwhere that the bolts need replacement also on the OFHG, can anyone confirm this or give a detailed list on what needs to be replaced for this DIY on both VCG & OFHG?
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