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      07-15-2018, 04:42 PM   #1
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I recently purchased a DP fix and am having trouble getting the desired results. I have adjusted the setting all the way to 2oclock and everytime I turn the car on the CEL pops up and the codes are:

2EF5 Map thermostat, Input signal (this only appeared after installing the DP fix, piggybacked on the JB4)

29F4 Catless Downpipes Detected
29F5 Catless Downpipes Detected

After adjusting the setting I drive a lengthy amount without the CEL popping up. The only time it comes back on is when I turn the car off and on, which then requires me to clear the codes and thus all the drive cycles are reset (defeats the purpose)

I'll adjust it all the way to the max setting (1 oclock) and see if it makes a difference, but I have a hunch it wont. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?
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      07-15-2018, 05:08 PM   #2
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Think it supposed to be 5oclock position
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      07-15-2018, 05:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groganrocket View Post
Think it supposed to be 5oclock position
So return the position to 5oclock and drive the car how far? What's confusing me is that the CEL comes up everytime the car is turned back on and is only cleared when I manually clear it via the JB4 app on my tablet. Otherwise it just stays on.
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      07-15-2018, 08:54 PM   #4
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Sounds like you didnít install it properly possibly mixed up wires since itís effecting the map sensor instead of o2 sensors. Triple check your install.
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      07-16-2018, 02:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechmate View Post
I recently purchased a DP fix and am having trouble getting the desired results. I have adjusted the setting all the way to 2oclock and everytime I turn the car on the CEL pops up and the codes are:

2EF5 Map thermostat, Input signal (this only appeared after installing the DP fix, piggybacked on the JB4)

29F4 Catless Downpipes Detected
29F5 Catless Downpipes Detected

After adjusting the setting I drive a lengthy amount without the CEL popping up. The only time it comes back on is when I turn the car off and on, which then requires me to clear the codes and thus all the drive cycles are reset (defeats the purpose)

I'll adjust it all the way to the max setting (1 oclock) and see if it makes a difference, but I have a hunch it wont. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?
Assuming the install is correct, I think 2pm is too strong, start at 5, making sure to clear all codes and run lambda adaption each time you change the setting.
I recently did this starting at 5 then 4, jumping back to 6 and eventually to 7 before I got the desired results. Have some patience and keep moving the dial until you get the desired results. The BMS install literature advises on situations that arise the would cause you to turn the dial clockwise or counter clockwise.

Searching through forum posts, I see a lot of guys giving up too early or trying to fix sensors for erratic DME codes driven by the fix. Read the notes after the instructions and adjust accordingly. Took me about 4 nights to get all cleared up, which it did for a few hours before I got some codes. Long enough to get what I needed though, so maybe 8pm would have been even better...

BMS Instructions
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...dH69udYRCRIht6

Readiness Drive Cycle
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...ight=Emissions

Personally I think if you fudges the install, either the car would not start or you might experience drivability issues. If it's running fine, it should be ok. Check your work again if you think otherwise.

Last edited by Cabdriver; 07-16-2018 at 04:09 PM.
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      07-16-2018, 07:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabdriver View Post
]

Assuming the install is correct, I think 2pm is too strong, start at 5, making sure to clear all codes and run lambda adaption each time you change the setting.
I recently did this starting at 5 then 4, jumping back to 6 and eventually to 7 before I got the desired results. Have some patience and keep moving the dial until you get the desired results. The BMS install literature advises on situations that arise the would cause you to turn the dial clockwise or counter clockwise.

Searching through forum posts, I see a lot of guys giving up too early or trying to fix sensors for erratic DME codes driven by the fix. Read the notes after the instructions and adjust accordingly. Took me about 4 nights to get all cleared up, which it did for a few hours before I got some codes. Long enough to get what I needed though, so maybe 8pm would have been even better...

BMS Instructions
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...dH69udYRCRIht6

Readiness Drive Cycle
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...ight=Emissions

Personally I think if you fudges the install, either the car would not start or you might experience drivability issues. If it's running fine, it should be ok. Check your work again if you think otherwise.
How do I run a lambda adaptation?
*edit After finding an old thread I have a general idea. I dont understand if it is selected via the steering wheel controls in the JB4 1/7 and then the order of "key in the car, foot off the brake, start button, gas 30 sec, start, ect." or just selected via the JB4 1/7 with the car ignition on.

I want to make sure I understand correctly, because the instructions tell you what code gets thrown when the dial is too high or too low, but doesnt say when that code will appear. My issue has been that I will turn the car on after adjusting the setting to 6, clear the codes, run a drive cycle (aside from the cold idle, because by the time the car is on the code pops up and when I reset it it would negate the 2 min idle anyways would it not?) then when I park the car and turn it off after getting no codes, I'll wake up the next day, get in the car, turn it on and I'll get CEL light giving me the same codes as mentioned in the OP. That's the part I am confused about.

I haven't had a CEL during a drive after a reset, only after the car is off, cold, then turned back on.
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      07-16-2018, 09:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechmate View Post
I recently purchased a DP fix and am having trouble getting the desired results. I have adjusted the setting all the way to 2oclock and everytime I turn the car on the CEL pops up and the codes are:

2EF5 Map thermostat, Input signal (this only appeared after installing the DP fix, piggybacked on the JB4)

29F4 Catless Downpipes Detected
29F5 Catless Downpipes Detected

After adjusting the setting I drive a lengthy amount without the CEL popping up. The only time it comes back on is when I turn the car off and on, which then requires me to clear the codes and thus all the drive cycles are reset (defeats the purpose)

I'll adjust it all the way to the max setting (1 oclock) and see if it makes a difference, but I have a hunch it wont. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?
You are just using this for one day per year in which you need to get your emissions test done correct ?
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      07-16-2018, 11:08 PM   #8
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Just thoroughly rechecked the wiring and everything is as it should be. I'm wondering if it is the lack of the lambda reset now. Once I better understand how to properly do the lambda reset I'll report back.

Update - after turning the car on to ensure all wiring was good, I hooked up my tablet to see what codes remained and upon doing so the engine shuddered, went into limp mode and an odd code popped up.

3100 Low boost mode engaged - CEL displayed

I turned the car off and back on and that cleared it up. The only code I have now is the Map thermostat input signal code.
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      07-16-2018, 11:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechmate View Post
How do I run a lambda adaptation?
*edit After finding an old thread I have a general idea. I dont understand if it is selected via the steering wheel controls in the JB4 1/7 and then the order of "key in the car, foot off the brake, start button, gas 30 sec, start, ect." or just selected via the JB4 1/7 with the car ignition on.

I want to make sure I understand correctly, because the instructions tell you what code gets thrown when the dial is too high or too low, but doesnt say when that code will appear. My issue has been that I will turn the car on after adjusting the setting to 6, clear the codes, run a drive cycle (aside from the cold idle, because by the time the car is on the code pops up and when I reset it it would negate the 2 min idle anyways would it not?) then when I park the car and turn it off after getting no codes, I'll wake up the next day, get in the car, turn it on and I'll get CEL light giving me the same codes as mentioned in the OP. That's the part I am confused about.

I haven't had a CEL during a drive after a reset, only after the car is off, cold, then turned back on.
I have mhd, so I'm not sure how or if that can be done via jb4....
That said, I think you can download mhd and perform adaptions without purchasing a license but cant recall...
The adaption was necessary along with clearing MILs with each setting change. I recommend going to 5, then 6, then 7 and so on. Dont get hung up on the codes, just go through and cycle through the settings until you see a change. It's really just trial and error, I was getting all sorts of crazy codes until I got to 7pm and it cleared up long enough to get the job done. Just be patient and follow the drive cycle to the t.
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      07-17-2018, 04:03 AM   #10
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If the only code you are getting is the map code I'm still having doubts it's because of the dp fix. The dp fix should have no effect on the map sensor. Did you possibly unhook another wire during the install or it also seems like it's common that people accidentally push the DME pins in when messing with the harness. Did you do any work around the charge pipe recently? I would be tempted to remove the dp fix and see if the code stays or goes.
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      07-17-2018, 06:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolsilver View Post
If the only code you are getting is the map code I'm still having doubts it's because of the dp fix. The dp fix should have no effect on the map sensor. Did you possibly unhook another wire during the install or it also seems like it's common that people accidentally push the DME pins in when messing with the harness. Did you do any work around the charge pipe recently? I would be tempted to remove the dp fix and see if the code stays or goes.
Could you elaborate on what you mean by pushing the DME pins in? The DP fix female pins were significantly larger than the OEM pins which required me to work a little to get then to snap in place, but I was cautious. I also did install an aftermarket charge pipe, but that was a several months ago.

I might be uninstalling the DP fix to just reinstall my catted downpipes at a local DIY garage. It only took me 3 1/2 hours last time, which is less than it takes to get the DP fix to work . After I get my registration cleared, I might mess with DP fix and see if I can get it working in order to pass it on and guide somebody else through the process later on.
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      07-17-2018, 08:36 PM   #12
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I know what you mean getting the dp fix to work for me was quite a pain but definitely less of a pain then reinstalling dps. Some people will accidentally push the male pins in the actual dme a bit in when reinstalling the harness if it's not perfectly lined up. Uninstalling the dp fix should take no more than 10 minutes I would definitely do that real fast and see if the code stays or goes if it stays you know it's not the dp fix messing it up and that there's something else going on, it it goes away I was wrong and somehow the dp fix is effecting the map sensor.

The dp fix isn't anything magical it's a simple potentiometer, like a dimmer light. It simply takes one post cat o2 signal alters the input resistance causing the voltage to change which then puts two outputs to the two dme post cat pins. That's why it's so hard for me to believe that this could be effecting the map sensor unless it wasn't installed properly.

I know installing it with jb4 installed is a little more confusing maybe pull out jb4 and install the dp fix straight to factory harness.

Also when you go to it again before changing anything take some pictures of the connections to show us.
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      07-17-2018, 09:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolsilver View Post
I know what you mean getting the dp fix to work for me was quite a pain but definitely less of a pain then reinstalling dps. Some people will accidentally push the male pins in the actual dme a bit in when reinstalling the harness if it's not perfectly lined up. Uninstalling the dp fix should take no more than 10 minutes I would definitely do that real fast and see if the code stays or goes if it stays you know it's not the dp fix messing it up and that there's something else going on, it it goes away I was wrong and somehow the dp fix is effecting the map sensor.
I'll try to uninstall the JB4 and see what happens. is the tMap sensor located near the chargepipe? Maybe I can trace the wires and see if anything is fubar.
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      07-17-2018, 09:37 PM   #14
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I know the sensor on the charge pipe is the map sensor but I don't know if that also deals with temp that may be the one on the intake manifold. I would check both those sensors but do this after uninstalling the fix and seeing if the code still exists.
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      07-17-2018, 11:39 PM   #15
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The 2EF5 Map thermostat is your coolant thermostat...nothing to do with the map sensor. Good idea to undue the fix and jb4. Very likely your thermostat is not closing.
Test out your theory but likely that the thermostat needs to be replaced. If so, recommend you do the waterpump as well.
Question were you getting readiness at any point?
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      07-17-2018, 11:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabdriver View Post
The 2EF5 Map thermostat is your coolant thermostat...nothing to do with the map sensor. Good idea to undue the fix and jb4. Very likely your thermostat is not closing.
Test out your theory but likely that the thermostat needs to be replaced. If so, recommend you do the waterpump as well.
Question were you getting readiness at any point?
Waterpump was replaced only 20k ago. Could it go out that fast? I'll pull put the JB4 in the morning and snap some photos.
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      07-18-2018, 12:02 AM   #17
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Here is what shot out of my exhaust when the engine shuddered and gave me the 3100 code yesterday. Saw it when I was walking back to my apartment this morning. It's not really an oily consistency, more like a dust or carbon buildup feel to it but it was strange it flew out like the car shat itself. This could be unrelated, but I thought I should post it up anyways. (Pictures are rotated sideways for some reason)
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      07-18-2018, 07:16 AM   #18
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Just carbon latching onto water droplets (condensation) and blowing out. Typical when you are catless.
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      07-18-2018, 10:19 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Just carbon latching onto water droplets (condensation) and blowing out. Typical when you are catless.
Good to know!
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      07-18-2018, 01:24 PM   #20
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Yeah my garage door and driveway have those marks all over the place.
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      07-18-2018, 03:08 PM   #21
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Uninstalled the JB4 and noticed the shop that installed the JB4 installed the 2 step incorrectly. I never used two step, but had I tried it, I assume it wouldn't have worked. You can see the lack of a brown wire to the position #8 spot on the USB cable. Just about to start the car up before installing the DP fix without the JB4, then will report back after checking to see if the SES pops up. Although, I just realized I have no way of checking if any codes popped up anymore :
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      07-18-2018, 04:25 PM   #22
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If you have a obd to usb cable you could download mhd and read the codes with the free version.

Considering the shop installed that wrong it's very likely they may have messed up other parts of the install so you may be in luck.
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