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      07-21-2018, 05:19 PM   #1
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Turner Motor Mounts / Rogue Engineering Trans Mounts

I just installed Turner Poly 60a Motor Mounts & Rogue engineering Transmission Mounts.

I will of course update this thread once I get 2 to 3,000 miles in when they are broken in.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p...ne-mounts-60a/

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Driveline...SABEgIdcfD_BwE

The car seems more direct and linear under acceleration. The transmission never skips a beat.

There is a noticeable level of NVH at idol while in drive. However, when you accelerate, the NVH is totally non-existent. I don't know if this will minimize a little once the motor & trans mounts are broken in or not. Time will tell.
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      07-22-2018, 08:55 AM   #2
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Perhaps try raising the idle RPM in MHD by a few hundred RPM?

I've had my mechanic install a set of 60A TMS engine mounts along with SMF on my VTT GC lite turbo upgrade (have UUC black trans mounts) will be interesting to see how it feels
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      07-22-2018, 09:00 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Perhaps try raising the idle RPM in MHD by a few hundred RPM?

I've had my mechanic install a set of 60A TMS engine mounts along with SMF on my VTT GC lite turbo upgrade (have UUC black trans mounts) will be interesting to see how it feels
I had thought about UUC Black trans mounts, but when I googled them for reviews, the results ended up to be mixed in nature. Conversely, I could not find one, single bad review of the Rogue Engineering Trans Mounts.

I don't have MHD on or any tune on my car. My turbos have 153,000 miles on them. I fixed the wastegate rattle and installed new turbo seals. So far, the car runs strong. So, trying not to push my luck. I just installed new, index 12 injectors. If and when I get new turbos, I'll install new plugs & coils. At that time, I'll look into MHD for sure.
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      07-22-2018, 10:24 AM   #4
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Also you could try loosening up all engine and transmission mounts, run the engine, shut it off and then fasten the mounts. This way engine and transmission will be fasten in there naturally resting position. It might not work but sometimes it does. Is what I have learned working on cars.
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      07-22-2018, 06:32 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by feuer View Post
Also you could try loosening up all engine and transmission mounts, run the engine, shut it off and then fasten the mounts. This way engine and transmission will be fasten in there naturally resting position. It might not work but sometimes it does. Is what I have learned working on cars.
Is that a big job to be able to get to them to loosen them & refasten? I'm guessing trans will be fine, unsure about the engine..
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      07-22-2018, 06:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I had thought about UUC Black trans mounts, but when I googled them for reviews, the results ended up to be mixed in nature. Conversely, I could not find one, single bad review of the Rogue Engineering Trans Mounts.

I don't have MHD on or any tune on my car. My turbos have 153,000 miles on them. I fixed the wastegate rattle and installed new turbo seals. So far, the car runs strong. So, trying not to push my luck. I just installed new, index 12 injectors. If and when I get new turbos, I'll install new plugs & coils. At that time, I'll look into MHD for sure.
TBH a lot of these trans mounts are much of a muchness. I got the UUC's over the rogue's as I found a set on ebay very cheap and since I reside in Australia the ebay seller shipping was very cheap compared to buying direct from rogue or UUC whom were very expensive for two small mounts.

How did you fix your wastegate rattle? wastegate repair kit? I had my oem turbos rebuilt with this kit was curious to know how long the rebuilt arms would last (I sold my oem turbos as rebuilt turbos to offset the cost of my new turbos)

Hmm TBH MHD is more then just a tune, you can use it to log your vehicle, use it to monitor and clear codes and also raise the RPM etc etc I know you can flash the oem map with MHD, FWIW $100 or so might be worthwhile to get MHD to raise your RPM slightly?
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      07-22-2018, 07:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I had thought about UUC Black trans mounts, but when I googled them for reviews, the results ended up to be mixed in nature. Conversely, I could not find one, single bad review of the Rogue Engineering Trans Mounts.

I don't have MHD on or any tune on my car. My turbos have 153,000 miles on them. I fixed the wastegate rattle and installed new turbo seals. So far, the car runs strong. So, trying not to push my luck. I just installed new, index 12 injectors. If and when I get new turbos, I'll install new plugs & coils. At that time, I'll look into MHD for sure.
TBH a lot of these trans mounts are much of a muchness. I got the UUC's over the rogue's as I found a set on ebay very cheap and since I reside in Australia the ebay seller shipping was very cheap compared to buying direct from rogue or UUC whom were very expensive for two small mounts.

How did you fix your wastegate rattle? wastegate repair kit? I had my oem turbos rebuilt with this kit was curious to know how long the rebuilt arms would last (I sold my oem turbos as rebuilt turbos to offset the cost of my new turbos)

Hmm TBH MHD is more then just a tune, you can use it to log your vehicle, use it to monitor and clear codes and also raise the RPM etc etc I know you can flash the oem map with MHD, FWIW $100 or so might be worthwhile to get MHD to raise your RPM slightly?
Tunes can tough on turbos, injectors, coils & plugs. Bring that I have original OEM turbos with 153,000 miles, I don't want to push my luck.

To fix the wastegate rattle you have to first turn the actuator screw, on the rear turbo 2 1/2 x.

For the front turbo, you buy two no. 8, stainless steel washers & modify them. You take a dremmel or a grinder wheel and cut out a section of the washers so you have a horse shoe shape left.

The next step is to loosen the actuator housing bolt on the front turbo from up top. Then working underneath the car you need a telescope/magnet type pick up tool. Use that to carefully place both horseshoe shaped washers "in-between the block & actuator housing. I superglued the washers together. End result is that will create more tension on the actuator rod and get rid of wastegate.

If for some reason both these tricks don't get rid of wastegate or they do, but after a period of time the wastegate comes back, then you will absolutely need new turbos. Maybe not right that day, because you can still have a functional car with wastegate, but it's only a matter of time before your get the dreaded 30ff code.

I bought the rogue trans mounts from Bimmerworld, which is a vendor that just deals with BMW's.
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      07-22-2018, 07:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Is that a big job to be able to get to them to loosen them & refasten? I'm guessing trans will be fine, unsure about the engine..
You can even drive the car and none of these mounts will fall off as they are designed to stay on even when loose.
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      07-23-2018, 01:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I had thought about UUC Black trans mounts, but when I googled them for reviews, the results ended up to be mixed in nature. Conversely, I could not find one, single bad review of the Rogue Engineering Trans Mounts.

I don't have MHD on or any tune on my car. My turbos have 153,000 miles on them. I fixed the wastegate rattle and installed new turbo seals. So far, the car runs strong. So, trying not to push my luck. I just installed new, index 12 injectors. If and when I get new turbos, I'll install new plugs & coils. At that time, I'll look into MHD for sure.
TBH a lot of these trans mounts are much of a muchness. I got the UUC's over the rogue's as I found a set on ebay very cheap and since I reside in Australia the ebay seller shipping was very cheap compared to buying direct from rogue or UUC whom were very expensive for two small mounts.

How did you fix your wastegate rattle? wastegate repair kit? I had my oem turbos rebuilt with this kit was curious to know how long the rebuilt arms would last (I sold my oem turbos as rebuilt turbos to offset the cost of my new turbos)

Hmm TBH MHD is more then just a tune, you can use it to log your vehicle, use it to monitor and clear codes and also raise the RPM etc etc I know you can flash the oem map with MHD, FWIW $100 or so might be worthwhile to get MHD to raise your RPM slightly?
Tunes can tough on turbos, injectors, coils & plugs. Bring that I have original OEM turbos with 153,000 miles, I don't want to push my luck.

To fix the wastegate rattle you have to first turn the actuator screw, on the rear turbo 2 1/2 x.

For the front turbo, you buy two no. 8, stainless steel washers & modify them. You take a dremmel or a grinder wheel and cut out a section of the washers so you have a horse shoe shape left.

The next step is to loosen the actuator housing bolt on the front turbo from up top. Then working underneath the car you need a telescope/magnet type pick up tool. Use that to carefully place both horseshoe shaped washers "in-between the block & actuator housing. I superglued the washers together. End result is that will create more tension on the actuator rod and get rid of wastegate.

If for some reason both these tricks don't get rid of wastegate or they do, but after a period of time the wastegate comes back, then you will absolutely need new turbos. Maybe not right that day, because you can still have a functional car with wastegate, but it's only a matter of time before your get the dreaded 30ff code.

I bought the rogue trans mounts from Bimmerworld, which is a vendor that just deals with BMW's.
I don't see why you can't install a basic tune equivalent to cobb stage 1 or 2 DRIVE power/boost/timing levels. I also have 145k miles on my original turbos and was putting a ton of miles on the car each year, and dialing it back to this tune felt safer for longevity while not having to suffer through slow stock boost/tuning levels. Just my 2 cents.
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      07-24-2018, 12:49 AM   #10
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I know there’s an option for installing MHD but leaving it on the stock map. I wonder if you could install MHD and just up the idle RPM only.
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      07-25-2018, 02:18 PM   #11
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Update - 100-125 miles in

Today, I noticed less NVH while driving. It's not me just getting used to it or anything like that. I'd say at idol the NVH is probably 30-40% less than it was 100-125 miles ago when I first installed them.

So, there must be a break in period with the poly engine mounts from Turner & rogue engineering trans mounts.

Maybe they are starting to settle.... idk

I don't expect that there will be a day in which I won't feel NVH at idol. I knew going in that there would be some increase in NVH. When you use harder parts like polyurethane, you are gonna increase the level of a NVH.

Just my observation today. Less NVH at idol.
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      07-25-2018, 03:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Tunes can tough on turbos, injectors, coils & plugs. Bring that I have original OEM turbos with 153,000 miles, I don't want to push my luck.
For what it's worth.. I'm rolling over 160k on my car's original turbos, with 0 rattle, and I'm running stage 2 MHD, with catless downpipes, without issue. Never rebuilt. My OFHG and oil pan gaskets are starting to look rough, but other than that, the car is solid. I'm HOPING to get 200k out of the originals, as I'm currently putting a ton of mileage on the car. I don't really expect to make it to 200k, but it would be really nice.
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      07-25-2018, 07:13 PM   #13
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is 30FF really the sign that your turbos are dead ???

i bought my 335i with the 30ff code and been running 21psi for a year without my turbos going out or showing signs of slowing down... 30ff was gone by replacing a coil on the 2nd day never seen it since
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      07-25-2018, 09:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanker604 View Post
is 30FF really the sign that your turbos are dead ???

i bought my 335i with the 30ff code and been running 21psi for a year without my turbos going out or showing signs of slowing down... 30ff was gone by replacing a coil on the 2nd day never seen it since
It can be a sign yes. I'd only say it is once you've exhausted all other options like turbo Solenoids or a leaky intake manifold, or a vac line or two that is old and cracked, or really bad wastegate that hasn't been attempted to be fixed via washers, & turning the actuator screw on the rear turbo. There is a laundry list one should go through before one says the turbos are toast when discussing a 30ff code.
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      07-25-2018, 10:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanker604 View Post
is 30FF really the sign that your turbos are dead ???

i bought my 335i with the 30ff code and been running 21psi for a year without my turbos going out or showing signs of slowing down... 30ff was gone by replacing a coil on the 2nd day never seen it since
Ignition coil fixed 30ff?
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      07-25-2018, 10:35 PM   #16
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Ignition coil fixed 30ff?
well it had a misfire on 1 cyl and a 30ff code ...1 coil later ive never seen the 30ff code again... i did change boost solenoids a few weeks later... that could have been the culprit too
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      07-25-2018, 11:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by shanker604 View Post
is 30FF really the sign that your turbos are dead ???

i bought my 335i with the 30ff code and been running 21psi for a year without my turbos going out or showing signs of slowing down... 30ff was gone by replacing a coil on the 2nd day never seen it since
It can be a sign yes. I'd only say it is once you've exhausted all other options like turbo Solenoids or a leaky intake manifold, or a vac line or two that is old and cracked, or really bad wastegate that hasn't been attempted to be fixed via washers, & turning the actuator screw on the rear turbo. There is a laundry list one should go through before one says the turbos are toast when discussing a 30ff code.
No, it's a common code that usually accompanies another code. Usually in cases of misfires, boost leaks, etc. or anything that causes the car to go into limp mode.
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      07-25-2018, 11:52 PM   #18
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No, it's a common code that usually accompanies another code. Usually in cases of misfires, boost leaks, etc. or anything that causes the car to go into limp mode.
That's 3100 not 30ff
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      07-26-2018, 04:00 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I just installed Turner Poly 60a Motor Mounts & Rogue engineering Transmission Mounts.

I will of course update this thread once I get 2 to 3,000 miles in when they are broken in.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p...ne-mounts-60a/

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Driveline...SABEgIdcfD_BwE

The car seems more direct and linear under acceleration. The transmission never skips a beat.

There is a noticeable level of NVH at idol while in drive. However, when you accelerate, the NVH is totally non-existent. I don't know if this will minimize a little once the motor & trans mounts are broken in or not. Time will tell.
OP, I've mentioned this in several other threads but I just want to mention it again just in case, as you're the first person I've seen post online in a while about using poly engine mounts.

A local shop has had several poly engine mount sets of differing brands fail on street driven N54s, probably in large part due to the heat produced by the N54. I know the turner mounts have a "casing" around them to help protect them, but I would highly recommend checking on your mounts every once in a while regardless. They told me it got to the point where they won't install poly mounts on any N54 car seeing anything other than strict 1/4 mile duty unless the owner is fully aware of the consequences and super adamant about using poly mounts.

Their suggestion (and one several other knowledgeable people online seem to hold) is that if you're driving on the street at all, stick with OE mounts until we get a feasible all-rubber option unless you're okay with using a solid engine mount on one side like some of the single-turbo kits offer. Judging by the amount of failures of the 034 rubber mounts, I think it's obvious these cars can give engine mounts a beating, and there's probably a reason BMW chose to go with fluid-filled mounts even on the 1M and IS models. Some people are currently trying the revshift motor mounts which come with a heat blanket for the exhaust-side mount, but I'd be hesitant to be a guinea pig on those right now too if you aren't gonna be happy about the damage a failed engine mount can do.
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      07-26-2018, 04:41 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paanzerfaust View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I just installed Turner Poly 60a Motor Mounts & Rogue engineering Transmission Mounts.

I will of course update this thread once I get 2 to 3,000 miles in when they are broken in.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p...ne-mounts-60a/

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Driveline...SABEgIdcfD_BwE

The car seems more direct and linear under acceleration. The transmission never skips a beat.

There is a noticeable level of NVH at idol while in drive. However, when you accelerate, the NVH is totally non-existent. I don't know if this will minimize a little once the motor & trans mounts are broken in or not. Time will tell.
OP, I've mentioned this in several other threads but I just want to mention it again just in case, as you're the first person I've seen post online in a while about using poly engine mounts.

A local shop has had several poly engine mount sets of differing brands fail on street driven N54s, probably in large part due to the heat produced by the N54. I know the turner mounts have a "casing" around them to help protect them, but I would highly recommend checking on your mounts every once in a while regardless. They told me it got to the point where they won't install poly mounts on any N54 car seeing anything other than strict 1/4 mile duty unless the owner is fully aware of the consequences and super adamant about using poly mounts.

Their suggestion (and one several other knowledgeable people online seem to hold) is that if you're driving on the street at all, stick with OE mounts until we get a feasible all-rubber option unless you're okay with using a solid engine mount on one side like some of the single-turbo kits offer. Judging by the amount of failures of the 034 rubber mounts, I think it's obvious these cars can give engine mounts a beating, and there's probably a reason BMW chose to go with fluid-filled mounts even on the 1M and IS models. Some people are currently trying the revshift motor mounts which come with a heat blanket for the exhaust-side mount, but I'd be hesitant to be a guinea pig on those right now too if you aren't gonna be happy about the damage a failed engine mount can do.
The turner Motor mounts come with a ceramic spacer on the exhaust side only. I called ECS tuning and verified with them that this one was for the exhaust side. They stated that the ceramic plate was for heat transfer.

I could go back in and wrap that mount with DEI Gold Heat Tape, which is supposed to be good for 850 degrees. I have never tempted the exhaust manifold with an inferred gun to be higher than 500 degrees.

Your thoughts ?
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      07-26-2018, 08:18 AM   #21
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
No, it's a common code that usually accompanies another code. Usually in cases of misfires, boost leaks, etc. or anything that causes the car to go into limp mode.
That's 3100 not 30ff
My bad
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      07-26-2018, 08:18 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
The turner Motor mounts come with a ceramic spacer on the exhaust side only. I called ECS tuning and verified with them that this one was for the exhaust side. They stated that the ceramic plate was for heat transfer.

I could go back in and wrap that mount with DEI Gold Heat Tape, which is supposed to be good for 850 degrees. I have never tempted the exhaust manifold with an inferred gun to be higher than 500 degrees.

Your thoughts ?
Yeah, the plate will help with direct heat transfer just like phenolic spacer does for an aluminum intake manifold, but on the exhaust side radiated heat is an issue too and that will go straight into the aluminum housing around the poly which is where part of the issue will likely stem from. Look up what egts are from the N54.
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