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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Clutch just broke, fell to the floor and won't return. What's this plastic piece?



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      09-19-2018, 08:31 AM   #1
nissubaru
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Clutch just broke, fell to the floor and won't return. What's this plastic piece?

Just as the title states. I went to shift and the clutch basically fell to the floor. Oddly enough I was able to shift a few a times but each time the clutch wouldn't return but it would shift. After a few shifts it eventually wouldn't shift at all and now the peddle it's completely dead so I pulled over and am waiting on a tow.

I did find these two pieces under the peddles though, any idea what these go to? I have been having issues where my car wouldn't start thinking I haven't pushed the clutch down but after a few attempts it usually works.



Any ideas? I'd like to get this fixed asap and I plan on doing it myself. Just sitting on the highway right now lol thanks
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      09-19-2018, 08:37 AM   #2
nissubaru
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Never mind, think I found it

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-fte-part...526773670~fte/

Clutch master cylinder. Gotta love plastic parts.

Edit: Ordered the part from fcpeuro using the OE replacement. Next day shipping for $76.28 total. Not too bad. Really glad I chose not to tow it to a shop considering it only took 20 min to diagnose with no tools while sitting on the highway lol

Last edited by nissubaru; 09-19-2018 at 09:19 AM..
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      09-19-2018, 07:35 PM   #3
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That’s definitely it. Not too bad of repair, just an awkward place to be working.
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      09-19-2018, 08:24 PM   #4
nsjames
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Check that the clutch pedal isn't tweaked.
I put a new master in a buddy's jeep and it broke just like that in about 3 months.
I repaired it with fiberglass and epoxy, broke again.
Third repair I pulled the pedal assembly out and it was bent, the pin was not square in the hole and twisting it.
After I bent the pedal back to square and again fiberglassed the rod end it's been fine.
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      09-19-2018, 08:38 PM   #5
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It’s been a while since I owned a manual transmission (Prelude) but a plastic master cylinder? What is the world coming to, trying to save $.50 in metal cost. Is the cylinder itself plastic? How does it not wear
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      09-20-2018, 12:08 AM   #6
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Thats just the clip that attaches to the clutch pedal - not the cylinder itself. Still, BMW is the king of selling shit platic parts at premium prices..
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      09-20-2018, 06:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
Thats just the clip that attaches to the clutch pedal - not the cylinder itself. Still, BMW is the king of selling shit platic parts at premium prices..
Yes but the entire cylinder looks plastic, or at least overmolded
With the amount of fatigue cycles the only plastic
Piece in a clutch should be the reservoir
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      09-20-2018, 08:23 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mecheng77 View Post
Yes but the entire cylinder looks plastic, or at least overmolded
With the amount of fatigue cycles the only plastic
Piece in a clutch should be the reservoir
Yeah I was pretty shocked myself to see the linkage to my transmission was all being held up by a bit of plastic. Apparently it's not a common part to fail but it still seems like it should be made out of metal.

Anyways, reading up on the installation procedure. Really not too concerned about getting the new master cylinder installed but rather the bleed procedure. Seems like there are a lot of problems bleeding the clutch on these cars. I found someone linked to this video which discussed "reverse bleeding"



Basically the guy says to hook up hand pump to the bleed nipple and then pump fluid up through the clutch system into the reservoir as opposed to pushing the fluid from the reservoir down through the clutch system and out the bleed nipple. Honestly...his explanation makes a lot of sense. My question is this...I just ordered a Motive pressure bleeder...should I even bother giving his method a try or should I just go from the top down since I have a pressurized bleeder?

I figure if I use enough fluid and push enough through with the pressure bleeder then it should be fine.
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      09-20-2018, 08:28 AM   #9
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Slave cylinder is plastic too. All plastic. Even the bleeder. Maybe from 20y ago.
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      09-20-2018, 09:45 AM   #10
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yeah, wow sorry - I did't click on that link to ECS. The Germans love their cheap plastic parts for whatever reason. At least I still have my E30 which is only like 5% plastic compared to the E9x which is like 40%.
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      09-20-2018, 11:11 AM   #11
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reverse bleeding does work, but be careful that you don't push a bunch of trash from the slave into the new master.

I would force some fluid through it before you hook up the new master.

personally I've never had problems getting a clutch bled with regular pressure bleeding done from the master.
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      09-20-2018, 11:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
personally I've never had problems getting a clutch bled with regular pressure bleeding done from the master.
same here, never had an issue.
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      09-20-2018, 11:24 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
same here, never had an issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
reverse bleeding does work, but be careful that you don't push a bunch of trash from the slave into the new master.

I would force some fluid through it before you hook up the new master.

personally I've never had problems getting a clutch bled with regular pressure bleeding done from the master.

I was reading on the bleeding and some people were unable to.

So you guys just hooked up pressure bleeder at top then opened bleeder at clutch and that's it?
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      09-20-2018, 11:26 AM   #14
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yes.

Make sure you lightly tap the master to dislodge any air bubbles adhering to the internals.
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      09-20-2018, 12:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
I was reading on the bleeding and some people were unable to.

So you guys just hooked up pressure bleeder at top then opened bleeder at clutch and that's it?
Yes.

I also tap the master with a wrench/hammer. I do the same thing when I bleed calipers, because sometimes bubbles get trapped in corners etc.
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      09-20-2018, 12:20 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
Yes.

I also tap the master with a wrench/hammer. I do the same thing when I bleed calipers, because sometimes bubbles get trapped in corners etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
yes.

Make sure you lightly tap the master to dislodge any air bubbles adhering to the internals.
Ok then I'll consider flushing my clutch to when doing the regular brake fluid maintenance.

Would you do clutch first or brakes first?
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      09-20-2018, 12:36 PM   #17
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doesn't really matter, they have separate plumbing.
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      09-20-2018, 12:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
doesn't really matter, they have separate plumbing.
Ok.

One small question stupid question lol. I re read your post about tapping with a hammer... you tap the clutch cylinder and tap the calipers when you bleed brakes or tap the master cylinder in the engine bay?
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      09-20-2018, 12:46 PM   #19
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tap everything.

bubbles adhere to the rougher surfaces or in te nooks and crannies. Tapping things while fluid is moving will release them.
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