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      05-11-2017, 06:35 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
So I do need to say that I have no little kids that tore up the interior, so the interior has held up well. And while I drive the car hard as a BMW is meant to be driven and on ideal driving roads, the car does see about 75 miles a day of easy 6th gear cruising, and it sees about 45 miles of heavy traffic a day. But the engine runs almost constantly for about 1 hour 45 minutes at a time. It's rare that I don't hammer the thing on the good roads on my commute though.

My E90 has been as every bit stout as my E30 was and I'd say way less maintenance intensive and probably on par as far as repairs go. I read most of the threads on E90 post and in my opinion most owners over maintain these cars. Many people replace engine mounts, transmission mounts, diff mounts, subframe bushings when it is not necessary. When my car was at 22,000 miles I started the 80-mile one-way commute I still drive today. Up until 200,000 miles I took a slightly different route that didn't change the total miles by much but added in about 17 miles of pure track level driving (and I drove the car that way) on a back country road in place of some of the 20 miles (one-way) of easy cruising. So that kind of driving environment wears on driveline mounts and suspension bushings. I'm still on the various original suspension components except the front thrust arms and the dampers (shocks). The tierod ends and all bushings are original and in good shape. I have a lift, so I can inspect them at every oil change. Could I freshen all those bushing up? Sure, but at 317,000 miles why, and would it really improve the car that much? I doubt it.

I've been thinking about where to go with this car lately. It's the last of the classic BMW inline sixes, so I feel I should preserve it (if that's possible after 300,000 miles - lol). I kick myself every once in a while for getting rid of the E30, but in reality I like the E90 better. I recently passed on an almost pristine and original E21 I found because I already have 4 automobiles (two of I say belong to my wife...). I think I'm going to retire the E90 soon from DD and get a Chevrolet Bolt for the daily commute and throw in a E90 and Z4 trip every week or so. I chatted up a sales dude at the Chevy dealer this week about the Bolt (Fundguy1 is cringing about now...). He said his dealership should be getting Bolts by mid-April, so we'll see. My main problem is I drive so much I really don't need a "weekend" car.

1st world problems...
I think you should throw caution to the wind and see just how stout the E90 platform is. Why not at this point? It's already a fully depreciated asset and anything new-ish will simply drop like a stone due to mileage depreciation.

Of course, that's easy for me to say from the comfort of my arm chair.

I'm guessing fuel is a substantial reason for going with the bolt?

The crazy part is I feel like you could have actually done less maintenance and been ok. Of course, we'd never know the answer to that, but seems plausible. Also, I replaced my stock headlights @75k and noticed the replacement units are a bit brighter. Might be something to think about at your mileage and the back roads you see.

Last edited by tlow98; 05-11-2017 at 06:42 PM..
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      05-11-2017, 07:14 PM   #134
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Lots of great information. Thanks for posting! These are fantastic cars.
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      05-12-2017, 07:27 PM   #135
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I'm now at 111, 553 miles on the "mile-o-meter" as the Brits call it.
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      05-13-2017, 05:16 PM   #136
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Efthreeoh - congrats! How many miles now? I got my car in June 2006 and have around 139K miles, daily driven, and I still love driving it every day. Is your suspension original? I feel like at 140K miles, I should need a new suspension by now but I'm not sure how to tell whether I really do. Car still drives great, so I haven't done it.

I'm still on the original brakes, believe it or not. I feel like I must be setting some kind of a record with them. I engine brake quite a bit, but still, it seems outrageous. Original clutch, too, before anyone complains about engine braking. Was your first replacement clutch at 293K miles, did I read that right? Nice.

My only real complaint after 11 years of daily driving is that I've had to replace my valve cover gasket at least 4 times. But otherwise, just regular maintenance, replacement of worn parts, and only the rare repair since 2006. Never failed to start, not even once, in that time.
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      05-14-2017, 05:37 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK View Post
Efthreeoh - congrats! How many miles now? I got my car in June 2006 and have around 139K miles, daily driven, and I still love driving it every day. Is your suspension original? I feel like at 140K miles, I should need a new suspension by now but I'm not sure how to tell whether I really do. Car still drives great, so I haven't done it.

I'm still on the original brakes, believe it or not. I feel like I must be setting some kind of a record with them. I engine brake quite a bit, but still, it seems outrageous. Original clutch, too, before anyone complains about engine braking. Was your first replacement clutch at 293K miles, did I read that right? Nice.

My only real complaint after 11 years of daily driving is that I've had to replace my valve cover gasket at least 4 times. But otherwise, just regular maintenance, replacement of worn parts, and only the rare repair since 2006. Never failed to start, not even once, in that time.
324,000 now. It's on the rack right now getting new rear wheel bearings. I should have it finished up today. The suspension I did at 185,000 with just new shocks; it needs more refreshing now. At 293,000 the clutch still had life in it; it was the dual mass flywheel that went bad. I drive in the mess between Gainesville and Centerville on 66 everyday and then up Route 28 to Dulles, so it sees plenty of traffic.

I wonder if your engine has a warped valve cover. You shouldn't have to replace it that often. Whoever does it next time have them lay the cover down on a piece of glass to check for warp.
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      09-20-2018, 01:27 AM   #138
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Still on the original fuel pump? I’m at 156k and I have the n51 which is the SULEV so I’m being paranoid on when it will die.
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      09-20-2018, 01:21 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by pao_e90 View Post
Still on the original fuel pump? I’m at 156k and I have the n51 which is the SULEV so I’m being paranoid on when it will die.
Original fuel pump at 300,000 (+53,000 more).
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      09-21-2018, 11:44 AM   #140
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Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
I think you should throw caution to the wind and see just how stout the E90 platform is. Why not at this point? It's already a fully depreciated asset and anything new-ish will simply drop like a stone due to mileage depreciation.

Of course, that's easy for me to say from the comfort of my arm chair.

I'm guessing fuel is a substantial reason for going with the bolt?

The crazy part is I feel like you could have actually done less maintenance and been ok. Of course, we'd never know the answer to that, but seems plausible. Also, I replaced my stock headlights @75k and noticed the replacement units are a bit brighter. Might be something to think about at your mileage and the back roads you see.
Highway mileage is acceptable but I get 14mpg city and it burns through the gas at an alarming rate city stop/go traffic.
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      09-22-2018, 01:16 PM   #141
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Encouraging news for owners with high mileage E90s! My 2008 E91 has 265,205 miles and thanks to preventive maintenance, BMWCCA Mike Miller Tech Talk, and my local Indy Shop (European Auto Specialists, Lancaster, CA), it’s still my daily driver.
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      09-22-2018, 01:57 PM   #142
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Always enjoyed this thread. I’m only at 86k miles IIRC as I DD a Civic (V-Tec just kicked in, yo) so I drive the 335 maybe once a week. CTS is for long trips but I doubt I’ll see 324k miles in my e90. Time will tell.
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Also our E90 330 and 325 will soon have some sort of boost. So there is actually more of a chance to get more hp out of a 330 then a 335 in my opinion
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      09-22-2018, 05:32 PM   #143
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Just getting ready to hit 260k...
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      09-22-2018, 06:06 PM   #144
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Plan on keeping my E90 for a very long time. Still enjoy driving it, after 10 years, and 72,000 later.
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      09-22-2018, 06:20 PM   #145
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Waiting for that 400,000 thread....
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      10-12-2018, 05:35 PM   #146
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Heckuva thread. I bought my 2008 E92 MT new in June of 2008. It just turned 124,000 miles and its running great. It ran perfectly with nothing but regular maintenance for over eight years. Then...
-In February of last year, when it had 94,000 miles, I paid $3,400 for a new valve cover, oil pan, vanos solenoid, and oil filter housing.
-In April of 2017 I paid $1,600 for a new alternator and batt cable.
-In November of 2017, at 109,000 miles, I paid $3,400 for a drive shaft flex disc, fan assembly, lower control arm front and rear, an oxygen sensor, etc...
-Finally, in January of 2018, with 111,111 miles, I replaced the thermostat, water pump, and fuel pump for $2,700.
One year and $11,000!!! BTW, those are all non dealer numbers. The dealer estimates were all nearly double those amounts. For the last ten months its run great. The place I'm taking it to has a great reputation, and they told me I should be good for at least several years, which, if true, will make it a bit less than car payments for the same period of time. But, I'm leery.
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      10-12-2018, 06:15 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistercindy View Post
Heckuva thread. I bought my 2008 E92 MT new in June of 2008. It just turned 124,000 miles and its running great. It ran perfectly with nothing but regular maintenance for over eight years. Then...
-In February of last year, when it had 94,000 miles, I paid $3,400 for a new valve cover, oil pan, vanos solenoid, and oil filter housing.
-In April of 2017 I paid $1,600 for a new alternator and batt cable.
-In November of 2017, at 109,000 miles, I paid $3,400 for a drive shaft flex disc, fan assembly, lower control arm front and rear, an oxygen sensor, etc...
-Finally, in January of 2018, with 111,111 miles, I replaced the thermostat, water pump, and fuel pump for $2,700.
One year and $11,000!!! BTW, those are all non dealer numbers. The dealer estimates were all nearly double those amounts. For the last ten months its run great. The place I'm taking it to has a great reputation, and they told me I should be good for at least several years, which, if true, will make it a bit less than car payments for the same period of time. But, I'm leery.
You are unfortunately paying sky high labour rates, especially for an Indy
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      10-12-2018, 09:25 PM   #148
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This thread is so uplifting. I wonder if the 325i that efthreeoh has its more reliable than the 328i that many of us have?
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      10-12-2018, 09:56 PM   #149
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This thread is so uplifting. I wonder if the 325i that efthreeoh has its more reliable than the 328i that many of us have?
Interestingly, I have a friend at work with a 2010 328i with 80,000 on it. She's the original owner, and it's only been serviced at the local dealership she bought it from. She just had an annual oil change done, so of course she got "the list". We went over the list: OFHG, VCG, Belt and tensioner, PS flush ("discolored"), and coolant ("discolored"). So thinking is was mostly BS, we checked under the hood. Indeed, the belt was about 1/2MM over the front of the pulley; the belt is clean though. The OFHG was showing signs of leaking, not terrible though, and the valve cover was grimy all around the front and down the right side, not really wet though, just seeping. I told her she needs to get the belt/tensioner done ASAP and might as well do the OFHG just to keep everything clean. Pricey stuff at the dealership. I was surprised at how grimy (oil film + dirt) her engine was compared to my N52 at any mileage I can recall from memory.

Now my car with the metal-head N52 (magnesium valve cover) was leak free at the VCG at 300,000 miles (I did it at 300K to replace the ESS), and while I've done the OFHG twice now, it never was as bad looking as her N52. I think the mag-head covers are better for not leaking, but maybe less reliable with the part-intensive catch can PCV system . I did my tensioner at 300,000 and it was in fine shape, enough that I kept it as a spare.

I do also have the plastic-head N52 in my '08 Z4, currently at 90,000 miles and it is dry everywhere and the tensioner looks good for the moment. I have a new belt/tensioner kit ready to go when the time comes.
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Last edited by Efthreeoh; 10-12-2018 at 10:01 PM..
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      10-14-2018, 08:44 AM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Interestingly, I have a friend at work with a 2010 328i with 80,000 on it. She's the original owner, and it's only been serviced at the local dealership she bought it from. She just had an annual oil change done, so of course she got "the list". We went over the list: OFHG, VCG, Belt and tensioner, PS flush ("discolored"), and coolant ("discolored"). So thinking is was mostly BS, we checked under the hood. Indeed, the belt was about 1/2MM over the front of the pulley; the belt is clean though. The OFHG was showing signs of leaking, not terrible though, and the valve cover was grimy all around the front and down the right side, not really wet though, just seeping. I told her she needs to get the belt/tensioner done ASAP and might as well do the OFHG just to keep everything clean. Pricey stuff at the dealership. I was surprised at how grimy (oil film + dirt) her engine was compared to my N52 at any mileage I can recall from memory.

Now my car with the metal-head N52 (magnesium valve cover) was leak free at the VCG at 300,000 miles (I did it at 300K to replace the ESS), and while I've done the OFHG twice now, it never was as bad looking as her N52. I think the mag-head covers are better for not leaking, but maybe less reliable with the part-intensive catch can PCV system . I did my tensioner at 300,000 and it was in fine shape, enough that I kept it as a spare.

I do also have the plastic-head N52 in my '08 Z4, currently at 90,000 miles and it is dry everywhere and the tensioner looks good for the moment. I have a new belt/tensioner kit ready to go when the time comes.

Did your ESS fail at 300k? That would be quite impressive
I know many change when they do the VCG, what are your thoughts?
Only do it if it has oil on it?
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      10-14-2018, 08:55 AM   #151
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Originally Posted by mecheng77 View Post
Did your ESS fail at 300k? That would be quite impressive
I know many change when they do the VCG, what are your thoughts?
Only do it if it has oil on it?
The ESS threw a code back in August 2014 when the car had been sitting for a few weeks after I had knee surgery. My wife was taking me to PT and the engine started, ran really rough, then stalled (in neutral). It restarted fine and ran great ever after that. But a few weeks after the stall incident, I checked for codes and found the ESS code. That was at 258K miles. Two years later at 305K I decided to replace the ESS and change the VCG. The gasket really didn't need replacing, the ESS connector had a tiny bit of oil in it. Doing the cover and sensor was really just a part of my 300,000 mile refurb activities. Next on the list at 356K is the PCV system. Looking at going with an aftermarket catchcan though.

My OFHG really has never been that bad either, though I've done it twice now. Belt tensioner easily went 300K.

If the VCG is not leaking and the ESS connector is dry with no failures, then leave it alone IMO. The valve cover is a PIA to replace. If you do, use a gasket sealer. I used P-tex Ultra Black. 50,000 miles later, she's dry as a bone; same with the oil pan gasket.
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Last edited by Efthreeoh; 10-14-2018 at 09:00 AM..
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      10-14-2018, 12:11 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistercindy View Post
Heckuva thread. I bought my 2008 E92 MT new in June of 2008. It just turned 124,000 miles and its running great. It ran perfectly with nothing but regular maintenance for over eight years. Then...
-In February of last year, when it had 94,000 miles, I paid $3,400 for a new valve cover, oil pan, vanos solenoid, and oil filter housing.
-In April of 2017 I paid $1,600 for a new alternator and batt cable.
-In November of 2017, at 109,000 miles, I paid $3,400 for a drive shaft flex disc, fan assembly, lower control arm front and rear, an oxygen sensor, etc...
-Finally, in January of 2018, with 111,111 miles, I replaced the thermostat, water pump, and fuel pump for $2,700.
One year and $11,000!!! BTW, those are all non dealer numbers. The dealer estimates were all nearly double those amounts. For the last ten months its run great. The place I'm taking it to has a great reputation, and they told me I should be good for at least several years, which, if true, will make it a bit less than car payments for the same period of time. But, I'm leery.
you're being raped on repair costs.
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      10-14-2018, 01:36 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistercindy View Post
Heckuva thread. I bought my 2008 E92 MT new in June of 2008. It just turned 124,000 miles and its running great. It ran perfectly with nothing but regular maintenance for over eight years. Then...
-In February of last year, when it had 94,000 miles, I paid $3,400 for a new valve cover, oil pan, vanos solenoid, and oil filter housing.
-In April of 2017 I paid $1,600 for a new alternator and batt cable.
-In November of 2017, at 109,000 miles, I paid $3,400 for a drive shaft flex disc, fan assembly, lower control arm front and rear, an oxygen sensor, etc...
-Finally, in January of 2018, with 111,111 miles, I replaced the thermostat, water pump, and fuel pump for $2,700.
One year and $11,000!!! BTW, those are all non dealer numbers. The dealer estimates were all nearly double those amounts. For the last ten months its run great. The place I'm taking it to has a great reputation, and they told me I should be good for at least several years, which, if true, will make it a bit less than car payments for the same period of time. But, I'm leery.
These are the highest repair costs I have ever seen. That amount of work should have cost half that. weird.
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      10-14-2018, 05:50 PM   #154
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Makes me feel good about my '07 328xi with only 10% of your mileage. I will drive it hard trying to catch up.
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