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      03-19-2018, 09:40 PM   #1
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Help with VSRF DP fix install

What's up guys. I recently had DP's installed and my inspection is coming up in April so I went ahead and bought the DP fix. However after looking through the instructions to install, I'm not confident with tapping into wires. I rather not damage anything.

Has anyone installed one of these devices before and possibly could help? I wouldn't mind paying to have this properly done thanks

Located in the NYC area.

Link to install instructions http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=303

Last edited by NDB24; 03-19-2018 at 09:48 PM..
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      03-20-2018, 07:30 AM   #2
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you are tapping wires at the sesnor side correct ? You have one of thos emulator boxes right ?
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      03-20-2018, 07:56 AM   #3
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It is really easy if you get the positaps linked in that thread. The only wire stripping you need to do is on the VRSF fix wires. Just make sure you strip enough so the wires can wrap around the positap and make a good connection to the metal. On the other side of the positap is a metal pin that will dig into the O2 harness wire when you tighten it. Nothing will be damaged. Then again this is a bit easier for me since my background is in electrical engineering. You can always buy cheap wires from radioshack or something to practice stripping and tapping first!
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      03-20-2018, 02:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
you are tapping wires at the sesnor side correct ? You have one of thos emulator boxes right ?

Correct, I actually ordered the VSRF DP fix but it looks identical to the io2 cat sim.
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      03-20-2018, 02:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NRigs View Post
It is really easy if you get the positaps linked in that thread. The only wire stripping you need to do is on the VRSF fix wires. Just make sure you strip enough so the wires can wrap around the positap and make a good connection to the metal. On the other side of the positap is a metal pin that will dig into the O2 harness wire when you tighten it. Nothing will be damaged. Then again this is a bit easier for me since my background is in electrical engineering. You can always buy cheap wires from radioshack or something to practice stripping and tapping first!
I definitely understand the usage of the positap with the pin. When I do remove the positap from those wires that will be tapped, won't there be a small hole in the middle and would this be an issue?

Also, the black wire from the harness has to be cut. How should I go ahead with connecting these wires back together after?

Really appreciate the help man.
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      03-20-2018, 02:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tastycakes View Post
I definitely understand the usage of the positap with the pin. When I do remove the positap from those wires that will be tapped, won't there be a small hole in the middle and would this be an issue?

Also, the black wire from the harness has to be cut. How should I go ahead with connecting these wires back together after?

Really appreciate the help man.
There won't be an issue when you remove them.

When you disconnect from the black wires, you leave the positaps connected and just remove the sim. Put in a jumper wire where you removed the sim wires from. So you would have to strip the jumper wire to twist into each of the positaps still connected to each black wire.

Another thing I should mention that scared me at first is after I installed it all and reconnected the battery, I had a lot of errors in the iDrive. 4x4 transmission malfunctions and everything. No DME codes or anything. These cleared as soon as I put the car in drive and drove away.
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      03-20-2018, 03:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NRigs View Post
There won't be an issue when you remove them.

When you disconnect from the black wires, you leave the positaps connected and just remove the sim. Put in a jumper wire where you removed the sim wires from. So you would have to strip the jumper wire to twist into each of the positaps still connected to each black wire.

Another thing I should mention that scared me at first is after I installed it all and reconnected the battery, I had a lot of errors in the iDrive. 4x4 transmission malfunctions and everything. No DME codes or anything. These cleared as soon as I put the car in drive and drove away.
Got it, so basically leave the positap that's connected to each side of the black wire. Just get some jumpe wires and strip the ends of the jumper wire and connect to each side of the positap to complete that connection?

Sorry for all the questions, as I said I've never done something like this before but there's nothing wrong with learning
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      03-20-2018, 03:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tastycakes View Post
Got it, so basically leave the positap that's connected to each side of the black wire. Just get some jumpe wires and strip the ends of the jumper wire and connect to each side of the positap to complete that connection?

Sorry for all the questions, as I said I've never done something like this before but there's nothing wrong with learning
It sounds like you got it!
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      03-20-2018, 04:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NRigs View Post
It sounds like you got it!
Really appreciate the help, I'l try to tackle this in a week or so.
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      03-20-2018, 08:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NRigs View Post
It sounds like you got it!
Pre-formed 140-piece Jumper Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014JOV4TI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UwBSAbKH821D9

Would this work to re-join that connection?

If not, link me to a wire that would work. Thanks!
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      03-20-2018, 08:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tastycakes View Post
Pre-formed 140-piece Jumper Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014JOV4TI..._UwBSAbKH821D9

Would this work to re-join that connection?

If not, link me to a wire that would work. Thanks!
No, those are for breadboard circuit experiments. They might not hold up under the hood. I would go for a more insulated wire with a higher operating temp:

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HGHM78/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
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      03-20-2018, 09:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NRigs View Post
No, those are for breadboard circuit experiments. They might not hold up under the hood. I would go for a more insulated wire with a higher operating temp:

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HGHM78/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
Appreciate the help once again!
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      03-22-2018, 06:51 AM   #13
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Good info. I was wondering what the fix option was.
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