[N54Society]

Hey Zach. I just compounded my car using ultimate compound and I noticed that in some areas (like the roof and the trunk), it left a haze behind that I can't seem to rub out. I even hit it with M205 polish and it still didn't take it out! I was using an orange foam pad and Porter cable DA.

Any suggestions on how to remove these spots? Clay bar it maybe? I've tried polish to no avail. Re-compound?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by vbp6us

Hey Zach. I just compounded my car using ultimate compound and I noticed that in some areas (like the roof and the trunk), it left a haze behind that I can't seem to rub out. I even hit it with M205 polish and it still didn't take it out! I was using an orange foam pad and Porter cable DA.

Any suggestions on how to remove these spots? Clay bar it maybe? I've tried polish to no avail. Re-compound?

It is common for compounding to leave a hazy surface behind... this is known as micromarring (or DA haze). It is produced by the relatively aggressive abrasives and pad used during the compounding process.



Here is an example of some crazy defects in jet black paint....




A heavy cutting process was needed to remove these defects, however it left a LOT of marring. No big deal, we know how to fix it...




An intermediate polish and pad were used to refine the surface and remove the majority of marring, though you will notice the paint is still not perfectly clear....





One final polishing pass cleaned up the remaining haze.






So, if your paint shows signs of micromarring, it is not uncommon, and actually expected after compounding in many cases. You will need to determine the appropriate polishing process to refine the finish and remove the haze.


- What color is your car? (jet black? metallic black?)
- What exactly have you tried so far? (just M205 on an orange pad?)
- Tell me about your technique. (did you prime your pad, how many passes were you making, what was your machine speed, how much pressure were you using, how fast were you moving)
- Pictures are worth 1000 words... if you have any photos that would be great!


Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

It is common for compounding to leave a hazy surface behind... this is known as micromarring (or DA haze). It is produced by the relatively aggressive abrasives and pad used during the compounding process.

So, if your paint shows signs of micromarring, it is not uncommon, and actually expected after compounding in many cases. You will need to determine the appropriate polishing process to refine the finish and remove the haze.


- What color is your car? (jet black? metallic black?)
- What exactly have you tried so far? (just M205 on an orange pad?)
- Tell me about your technique. (did you prime your pad, how many passes were you making, what was your machine speed, how much pressure were you using, how fast were you moving)
- Pictures are worth 1000 words... if you have any photos that would be great!


Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

Thanks, Zach.

-My car is jet black.
-I only have M205 as my polish but mulitple pads (blue, orange, black, yellow)
-I primed my pad spreading the compound around with my hand each time (probably overused the pad considering it was used for half of the car). I used speed 5-6 on a Porter Cable DA. Pressed pretty hard where the wheel would stop spinning in some instances. Given that it's the roof, I couldn't apply as much pressure as say the trunk but it was still a good amount of pressure.
-I'm going to take a picture right now..brb

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by vbp6us

Thanks, Zach.

-My car is jet black.
-I only have M205 as my polish but mulitple pads (blue, orange, black, yellow)
-I primed my pad spreading the compound around with my hand each time (probably overused the pad considering it was used for half of the car). I used speed 5-6 on a Porter Cable DA. Pressed pretty hard where the wheel would stop spinning in some instances. Given that it's the roof, I couldn't apply as much pressure as say the trunk but it was still a good amount of pressure.
-I'm going to take a picture right now..brb

Alright, plenty of things stand out to me...

When you are polishing to refine the paint, you want to go easier on the paint... especially jet black paint that will show any minor imperfection.


- Grab a clean polishing pad (white if you have one, otherwise use a softer black pad)
- Apply 3 pea sized dots of M205 (do not prime the pad)
- Use moderate downward pressure, not light, but not heavy... definitely not enough to stop the pad from spinning as that is never good technique
- Use slow arm speed
- Use a machine speed of 4
- Make 3-4 passes over a 2'x2' area
- Inspect your results

Let me know how it goes.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Alright, plenty of things stand out to me...

When you are polishing to refine the paint, you want to go easier on the paint... especially jet black paint that will show any minor imperfection.


- Grab a clean polishing pad (white if you have one, otherwise use a softer black pad)
- Apply 3 pea sized dots of M205 (do not prime the pad)
- Use moderate downward pressure, not light, but not heavy... definitely not enough to stop the pad from spinning as that is never good technique
- Use slow arm speed
- Use a machine speed of 4
- Make 3-4 passes over a 2'x2' ****
- Inspect your results

Let me know how it goes.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

I'll give that a shot. Here are the pics as promised.






Car before:


Car after:

[slimxb8]

Thanks zach for the scratch tips...
So I bought this set up from a local. I want to do the wife's car but I don't have a pad cleaner. What can I do to clean them till I can get something specific?

[N54Society]

I still couldn't get rid of these compound marks:

[N54Society]

Before:


During:


After:



Yay! I'm getting a hang of it.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by slimxb8

Thanks zach for the scratch tips...
So I bought this set up from a local. I want to do the wife's car but I don't have a pad cleaner. What can I do to clean them till I can get something specific?

You do not need a pad cleaning device... just a brush and some all purpose cleaner.

Pad Cleaning During and After Polishing by Ivan Rajic

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by vbp6us

Yay! I'm getting a hang of it.

Looking good! Keep it up.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[ritzzzzzwik]

Hi Zach,

I am trying to remove some swirl marks from my car (Please see the attached examples)

I just bought the following from Chemical Guys
1) CHEMICAL GUYS BUF_209 - PORTER CABLE 7424XP COMPLETE DETAILING KIT http://www.chemicalguys.com/Porter_C..._p/buf_209.htm

2) V LINE POLISH & COMPOUND SAMPLE KIT (4 OZ) V32, V34, V36, V38 http://www.chemicalguys.com/V_Line_P...ap_vkit_04.htm

I also have meguiars Ultimate Compound, Swirl X, and Carnuba Wax.

What would the best combination of pads/polish to restore the finish?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by ritzzzzzwik

Hi Zach,

I am trying to remove some swirl marks from my car (Please see the attached examples)

...

What would the best combination of pads/polish to restore the finish?

Hi,

Unfortunately there is no guaranteed product/pad combo that will work all of the time, every time, so I will refrain from telling you exactly what to try..... but I can coach you on how to determine exactly what you need to do.

Every vehicle is unique when it comes to paint correction. The severity of defects and way the paint responds to correction can vary from vehicle to vehicle, even if they are the same year, make, model, and color... so we must approach each case like a new experiment.

A "test spot" is a very important part of the paint correction process. It would be a shame for you to randomly select a 1 or 2 step process, work your way around the vehicle, then inspect your results only to find what you were doing was not producing the results you desired, right? So to avoid this, we perform a test spot or series of test spots on the vehicle to help determine and validate your process before you begin working on the entire car. (note: you should also be inspecting your results as you are working to ensure you're achieving uniform defect removal throughout the entire vehicle)

A test spot is usually performed on the hood or trunk of the vehicle, as they are flat surfaces that are easy to work on... but if you have a particular area that you want to use, go for it. Simply tape off a section, choose a product/pad to try, and then inspect your results afterwards. Make changes as needed to either your product choice, pad choice, technique, or some combination of the 3 variables until you have achieved the desired results you are after.

Please read these articles for more info!
What is a “Test Spot” and why is it important? by Chad Raskovich
Analyzing Your Test Spot by Zach McGovern
Paint Correction: Pairing Products and Pads by Zach McGovern


Let me know if you've got any other questions!

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[335D Alpha Pappa]

Do you have any products for windshield polishing to get rid of fine pits and bad scratches?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by 335D Alpha Pappa

Do you have any products for windshield polishing to get rid of fine pits and bad scratches?

CarPro Ceriglass is a cerium oxide polish specifically designed to work with glass.

I highly doubt you will remove any pitting/deep scratches from glass as it is very hard relative to automotive paint, but if the scratches are light then it may be worth a shot.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[ritzzzzzwik]

Doing a 2step paint correction on my car ATM followed by liquid Carnuba wax. Have a few questions on how to maintain this look without having to do a paint correction in the near future.

- Best way to main this glossy look between waxes?
- how can I remove dirt without taking off the wax
- Should I be polishing before waxing the next time I apply wax? I usually do it once a couple of month, and try to avoid machine car washes

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by ritzzzzzwik

- Best way to main this glossy look between waxes?

Proper car washing is the key to maintaining your "just detailed" finish. Use the article below as a guide for maintaining your finish without introducing swirls. As Todd mentions in the article, it is a great idea to use a quick detailer while you are drying. I prefer Meguiar's D156 as it adds protection and gloss and is very easy to use!

How To Properly Wash and Dry a Car by Todd Cooperider
Product Review: Meguiar’s D156 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax by Zach McGovern

Originally Posted by ritzzzzzwik

- how can I remove dirt without taking off the wax

Waxes do not last long... so you will have to reapply regularly, however using a pH balanced shampoo at the appropriate dilution ratio will be a good start to getting the best life out of your wax. I love Optimum Car Wash for general maintenance.

For more durable protection, consider a polymer sealant like Blackfire Wet Diamond, which typically lasts 4-6 months instead of 4-6 weeks. For even more durable protection (years), consider a Nano Coating.

Originally Posted by ritzzzzzwik

- Should I be polishing before waxing the next time I apply wax? I usually do it once a couple of month, and try to avoid machine car washes

No, you only want to polish when you need to remove defects. With proper washing and drying, you should only need to do a light polish on an annual basis at most. It is best to try to go 1-2 years before using any sort of abrasive polish on your vehicle. The reason for this is that when you use a polish on your vehicle, you are removing clear coat. There is a finite amount of clear coat that can be removed before you burn through and expose the base coat which requires a repaint to fix.

Clear Coat Preservation: Are You Polishing Too Often? by Zach McGovern


Before applying a new layer of wax, simply make sure the vehicle is thoroughly washed and dried. If you live in an environment where the car is exposed to excessive airborne contamination, you may need to use a fine grade clay to remove bonded contaminates, however this is usually only something I recommend doing before polishing.


Hopefully that helps! Let me know if you have any further questions.


Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[ritzzzzzwik]

Thanks so much!
Here is a sample of what I was able to achieve with my 2 step paint correction. I must say I amazed myself, especially since this was my first time attempting it. Thanks for your tips, this thread has been really helpful

FYI I used v34 with Orange pad, followed by V38 on white, followed by Meguiar's Gold Class liquid Carnuba.

[Detailed Image]

Looks great! You'll be amazed at how much more you learn as you continue to practice... time to work on family and friend's vehicles!

-Zach

[335D Alpha Pappa]

Zach,

Do you recommend a wax remover after washing? Should I use a non-abrasive or a spray on remover?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by 335D Alpha Pappa

Zach,

Do you recommend a wax remover after washing? Should I use a non-abrasive or a spray on remover?

It depends on what exactly you are doing?

Are you simply washing the car and then applying a new layer of wax? or are you washing the car to prep it for a full detail in which the car will be decontaminated and then polished before applying a new layer of protection?

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[335D Alpha Pappa]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

It depends on what exactly you are doing?

Are you simply washing the car and then applying a new layer of wax? or are you washing the car to prep it for a full detail in which the car will be decontaminated and then polished before applying a new layer of protection?

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

I will be prepping to do a full detail.

I want to remove any residue from the wax or sealant before putting on a new layer of a coating.

[Detailed Image]

There is no guaranteed way to do this aside from polishing, but when we are prepping for a full detail you want to do a thorough car wash and decontamination process to help remove the dirt and some of the existing protection (if any is present). This includes a hand wash using a heavier concentration of shampoo, as well as chemical decontamination such as IronX and TarX, followed by mechanical decontamination using detailing clay or clay substitutes. This should help produce a mostly bare surface for you to examine prior to the correction process.


Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com