[nick46]

So, earlier I was travelling from Bridgwater down to Exeter for my first covid jab. Just approaching J29 of the M5 (so only about 5-10 mins from the vaccination centre) and the car decides to shit itself. Dash lights up like a Christmas tree, all dials stop reading, wipers come on and won't stop and loads of faults appear on the idrive.
I get the car on the hard shoulder, turn off the ignition and lock the car. Try unlocking and starting again, but nothing apart from the wipers going mad, the dash all lit up and all sorts of faults on idrive.
Called the AA and when the recovery guy turned up, he put the key in and everything was back to normal! We decided it was best to recover the car to the services at J30 and then get it checked out. When we got to the services a technician turned up, had a check over the car and could find nothing wrong. Scanned it for codes and there was just about every fault code going, which we both agreed probably just came up as a result of the car completely shitting itself and so as a result 99.9% of them would be red herrings. He cleared the codes and off i went. Missed my appointment so drove home. Car didn't miss a beat on the way home!

[Silver Streek]

Clearly your car didn't want you getting your jab. It's obviously an antivaxer 😅

Got my first jab booked for next Sunday morning.

[nick46]

I've scanned the car this morning with Carly and the only faults I've got are the ones below:

ENGINE
004B1C Fuel filter heater, control


JUNCTION BOX PASSENGER MODULE
00C90B Pt can communication / PT CAN communication fault


TELEMATICS
00AA0F Alive signal airbag missing during start up.
00AA10 Alive signal airbag flawed.


After checking the history, these faults have been around for a very long time. I'm wondering if it could be the battery that caused the issue? I had a look at it and it looks like a original bmw one. If that's the case then it's over tem years old!
Is there any way I can check when it was last replaced using Carly?

[eljay]

Definitely an electrical fault, so you are right to first check the battery and charging system.
If the battery is that old, I would replace it. You can see the battery date code typically either on a sticker or stamped on the connecting post.
A dying battery will wreak some havoc on the modules, which is probably what you've experienced while driving.
I would replace the battery, reset all faults and live happily ever after.... until the next E90 "story".

[rasa bmw]

more than likely a fading battery

[nick46]

Looks like its the original battery as the code stamped on the negative terminal is 39 over 10 so I'm assuming that means 39th week in 2010.
So looks like a new battery is the first thing to get. Hopefully that'll sort it.

[nick46]

So as with everything bmw, finding the correct part is not straightforward!
My battery is an Exide and has two part numbers on it:
61217575575
61216924022

The specs on the battery are:
90Ah
900A
160RC
900CCA

After searching for the above part numbers, they both lead to the same battery. However its got different specs and is a start/stop battery, when my car doesn't have start stop.

The specs of the replacement are:
95Ah
850CCA

Autodoc and ECP both say its compatible so I guess it's the correct one?
Autodoc want £160 and ECP want £282 for the same battery!

[mapleleaf1773]

CCA = cranking amps amps , stay 850 or 900 if in cooler climate or have all 4 seasons

AH - amp. hours
RC - reseverve capacity. This is how you calculate the ah.

Example your 160rc ÷ 2 and add 16. This gives you 96 ah.

I'd register your new battery at 90 ah and your done. Always register just below ah. But never above.

[0l0dom0l0]

Model and year of car so we can advise re AGM or not.

Best way to find out what battery you need is measure the existing dimensions and then cross reference it against the type - so for example 096, 110 etc. Then get a new one based on this.

[nick46]

Originally Posted by 0l0dom0l0

Model and year of car so we can advise re AGM or not.

2010 E91 330d

[0l0dom0l0]

Ok deffo AGM. Other part of my post still stands.

For reference my 2007 E92 330i took a 115 type.

[Styvy]

Originally Posted by nick46

2010 E91 330d

Mine is e92 2010 330d and its not agm. Standard one. AGM is more expensive btw but has some benefits if you are running 3rd party amp and good speakers.

[nick46]

What does agm mean anyway?

[rasa bmw]

glass mat aint it ?

[Silver Streek]

Absorbed Glass Mat

[ValSolo]

I`d check the alternator too.

[nick46]

Well I got a new battery today and fitted it myself, which was fun I must say! I think bmw should've made the retaining clip a little more awkward!
Registering it with Carly was a breeze, so I guess i just have to see what happens now.
Hopefully its ok. Supposed to be going on holiday at the end of June beginning of July (covid restrictions pending!). The drive to Birmingham airport will be a bit nerve-wracking!

[Tambohamilton]

Have you also checked voltage while running? Just to make sure the alternator is doing its thing properly.

My battery was a 90Ah lead acid (wet), but I replaced it with a 70Ah EFB because 5kg lighter. The 70Ah is rated at 760CCA, the original was 700. Zero issues. I'm always reasonably careful to not drain the battery anyhow.

[nick46]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Have you also checked voltage while running? Just to make sure the alternator is doing its thing properly.

My battery was a 90Ah lead acid (wet), but I replaced it with a 70Ah EFB because 5kg lighter. The 70Ah is rated at 760CCA, the original was 700. Zero issues. I'm always reasonably careful to not drain the battery anyhow.

Hi mate.
I'm pretty sure I checked the old battery with Carly while the engine was running and it was 14V. I'm yet to check it all since installing the new battery, but now I've done a few miles I'll scan it again for codes and also check what the new battery is doing.

[nicked8]

See if this helps

[nick46]

So today I have checked the new battery using Carly. With the engine running it was reading 12.8v. I was expecting it to be more than that?
https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/98Td2P0N9LB8

[Tambohamilton]

That's not great. Can you verify with a multimeter? Should be 14.4v to charge an AGM.

Hang on, does your car have 'regenerative braking' in the options?